Linda Pahl on sat 21 feb 04
Hi, all.
I have recently started reading Ian Currie's "Revealing Glazes" and am
intrigued by his process. Since I learn best by observation and by
doing I am hoping to attend a workshop by Ian. I have contacted a
large teaching studio where I have previously taken workshops that is
within a reasonable driving distance from me and put them in touch with
Ian to see if they would consider hosting the workshop and plans are in
the works (possibly the first few weeks in September): Hands On Clay
in East Setaucket, New York, http://www.handsonclay.com/
In the event that the workshop actually pans out, I thought I would
prepare for it by making a few plaster molds for the grid tiles.
(Thought I'd jump in by trying a grid using the flux materials of my
Juicy Turquoise glaze for the corner "C" glaze. I am hoping to
discover at what point varying the amounts of silica/alumina effect the
turquoise color response from copper.)
My initial plaster mold was about an inch thick and took a bit of time
to make with the carving for the raised edges around the perimeter of
the tile and outlines for each square (I also added some extra detail
in each square to show the breaking effect of glazes) I allowed the
mold to dry for a couple of days and when I rolled my first slab of
clay on it the dang thing cracked in two.
I'm wondering if the problem was (1) the mold was too thin; (2) I
didn't allow the plaster enough drying time; or (3) if the ratio of
plaster to water was way off (I did it visually by continually adding
plaster to water until a small mountain appeared that did not readily
dissolve in the water).
I was wondering if someone might offer comments/suggestions on the
making of the plaster molds from which the tiles are formed. I am
largely self taught but I can't say that it comes easily to me; I
usually have to review the information I read in books over and over
again until the old brain cells "get it" and sometimes I even have to
jump in before I get it as the mistakes along the way teach me what
doesn't work.
Thanks in advance for any comments or suggestions on how you approach
the making of the plaster molds for the grid tiles.
Regards,
Linda Pahl, Kew Gardens, New York
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
email: TheClosetPotter@earthlink.net
website: http://home.earthlink.net/~jessieadair/tests/
///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
//////
John Rodgers on sat 21 feb 04
Linda, if you will send me a sketch of what it is you are tryin to make
in the way of a mold, I will try and address how to deal with it.
In the meantime, 1.5 lbs plaster to 1 lb of water is the ideal mix for
a small casting. Some try to do that by volume but it doesn't come out
quite right.
Regards,
John Rodgers
Chelsea, AL
Linda Pahl wrote:
> Hi, all.
>
> I have recently started reading Ian Currie's "Revealing Glazes" and am
> intrigued by his process. Since I learn best by observation and by
> doing I am hoping to attend a workshop by Ian. I have contacted a
> large teaching studio where I have previously taken workshops that is
> within a reasonable driving distance from me and put them in touch with
> Ian to see if they would consider hosting the workshop and plans are in
> the works (possibly the first few weeks in September): Hands On Clay
> in East Setaucket, New York, http://www.handsonclay.com/
>
> In the event that the workshop actually pans out, I thought I would
> prepare for it by making a few plaster molds for the grid tiles.
> (Thought I'd jump in by trying a grid using the flux materials of my
> Juicy Turquoise glaze for the corner "C" glaze. I am hoping to
> discover at what point varying the amounts of silica/alumina effect the
> turquoise color response from copper.)
>
> My initial plaster mold was about an inch thick and took a bit of time
> to make with the carving for the raised edges around the perimeter of
> the tile and outlines for each square (I also added some extra detail
> in each square to show the breaking effect of glazes) I allowed the
> mold to dry for a couple of days and when I rolled my first slab of
> clay on it the dang thing cracked in two.
>
> I'm wondering if the problem was (1) the mold was too thin; (2) I
> didn't allow the plaster enough drying time; or (3) if the ratio of
> plaster to water was way off (I did it visually by continually adding
> plaster to water until a small mountain appeared that did not readily
> dissolve in the water).
>
> I was wondering if someone might offer comments/suggestions on the
> making of the plaster molds from which the tiles are formed. I am
> largely self taught but I can't say that it comes easily to me; I
> usually have to review the information I read in books over and over
> again until the old brain cells "get it" and sometimes I even have to
> jump in before I get it as the mistakes along the way teach me what
> doesn't work.
>
> Thanks in advance for any comments or suggestions on how you approach
> the making of the plaster molds for the grid tiles.
>
> Regards,
>
> Linda Pahl, Kew Gardens, New York
>
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>
> email: TheClosetPotter@earthlink.net
> website: http://home.earthlink.net/~jessieadair/tests/
>
> ///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
> //////
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
>
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
Hank Murrow on sat 21 feb 04
On Feb 21, 2004, at 7:43 AM, Linda Pahl wrote:
> I have recently started reading Ian Currie's "Revealing Glazes" and am
> intrigued by his process.
Bravo Linda! You will have Big Fun doing your testing.
>
> My initial plaster mold was about an inch thick and took a bit of time
> to make with the carving for the raised edges around the perimeter of
> the tile and outlines for each square (I also added some extra detail
> in each square to show the breaking effect of glazes) I allowed the
> mold to dry for a couple of days and when I rolled my first slab of
> clay on it the dang thing cracked in two.
>
> I'm wondering if the problem was (1) the mold was too thin; (2) I
> didn't allow the plaster enough drying time; or (3) if the ratio of
> plaster to water was way off (I did it visually by continually adding
> plaster to water until a small mountain appeared that did not readily
> dissolve in the water).
The mold I made was around an inch thick, but was cast with the strong
mold making plaster......can't remember the name....Hydrocal maybe?
Anyway, it has never cracked under the pressure of rolling a slab over
it. I did surform the back to make it flat as possible so it wouldn't
rock on the table while rolling the slab.
You will really enjoy Ian, he stayed with us for three weeks two years
ago, and did a
workshop here in Eugene.
Cheers, Hank
John Hesselberth on sat 21 feb 04
Hi Linda,
Don't use plaster. Find a woodworking friend with a router and a piece
of wood. With a v-shaped router bit he/she can made you a press mold
from wood in about 10 minutes. Cut the v's in a flat piece of wood;
then add some pieces around the edge and you're done.
Regards,
John
On Saturday, February 21, 2004, at 10:43 AM, Linda Pahl wrote:
> I was wondering if someone might offer comments/suggestions on the
> making of the plaster molds from which the tiles are formed.
http://www.frogpondpottery.com
http://www.masteringglazes.com
Alisa Clausen on sun 22 feb 04
> Hi, all.
> > In the event that the workshop actually pans out, I thought I would
> prepare for it by making a few plaster molds for the grid tiles.
> (Thought I'd jump in by trying a grid using the flux materials of my
> Juicy Turquoise glaze for the corner "C" glaze. I am hoping to
> discover at what point varying the amounts of silica/alumina effect the
> turquoise color response from copper.)
>
Dear Linda,
This is a case where a head start will be extra work.
You should save your energy because, when the workshop is confirmed, Mr. Ian
will send the host a latex form for the grid. This easily is made into
plaster molds. We got the latex mold in the mail and from there we made 8
casts and 100 grids in dark and lights clays, in a day's work.
I have one of the plaster molds from which I make my grids.
John Britt on sun 22 feb 04
I made some killer plaster molds for the Currie tiles. They are great
because they dry the tile so evenly. You could make a wooden or clay
master and then cast the mold. Just be sure to leave some space at the
bottom for writing what the tile was and the result of the firing.
Hope it helps,
John Britt
May Luk on sun 22 feb 04
Hiya Linda;
I think your mould is not dry enough. A couple of days is too short. Maybe
put it close to the radiator for a week? I usually put my mould close to the
kiln for a couple of weeks. It would feel kind of airy / light when it's
dry. Also, if you put it near a heat source, it would steam if it's not dry,
and you can check that way.
When you mix plaster, did you see the island of Manhattan sinking very
slowly? Then put another cup for good luck. [I look for England. :-)]
I was about to make an ian grid in clay. Let's swap picts later.
I also been thinking about making a tomb stone version, so that I can dip
the tiles. I feel that the brushing makes the test not very accurate. I have
to wash the brush 35 times and cause contamination. But this way, it's not
too convinient for storing.
Regards
May
London, UK
Richard Aerni on sun 22 feb 04
On Sun, 22 Feb 2004 09:14:37 +0100, Alisa Clausen wrote:
>> Hi, all.
>> > In the event that the workshop actually pans out, I thought I would
>> prepare for it by making a few plaster molds for the grid tiles.
Well, I guess you could make a plaster mold for the grid tiles, but since
most people have limits on their time, why not save some and just roll out
some clay slabs, and then impress them with something/anything that takes
up roughly the space you'll need for the glaze test, in the grid that Ian
recommends. It will only take minutes, rather than the hours the plaster
work may involve. I've seen enough of these impressed grids, as well as
plaster formed ones, and can't say that one is better than the other.
Richard Aerni
Ababi Sharon on sun 22 feb 04
I need bigger boards. I take a slab divide it to 35 squares. Roll on it
cogwheel for the shape than in each square I write the number. I have a
plenty of place for mistakes.
Some of you can see it here
http://members4.clubphoto.com/_cgi-bin/getImage.pl?imgID=19473491-6909&t
rans=D
The others must go here
http://members4.clubphoto.com/ababi306910/981929/
Ababi Sharon
Glaze addict
Kibbutz Shoval Israel
ababisha@shoval.org.il
http://ababi.active.co.il
http://www.matrix2000.co.nz/Matrix%20Demo/Ababi.htm
To Ceramics forum in Hebrew:
http://www.botzpottery.co.il/kishurim.html
.
sdr on sun 22 feb 04
Richard said:
guess you could make a plaster mold for the grid tiles, but since
> most people have limits on their time, why not save some and just roll out
> some clay slabs, and then impress them with something/anything .....
Richard's right. I found that a piece of scrap plastic with little
round "buttons" on the surface worked well. It looked like a piece of a
light
cover or something, found it at the lumber yard in the scrap
pile. Worked fine, sprayed with a little Pam.
regards
Dannon Rhudy
Hendrix, Taylor J. on sun 22 feb 04
Linda:
We should exchange notes. I too just finished reading a copy of Ian's
book. As soon as I sell some pots, I'm going to buy my own copy. I had
some old DEP plaster sitting around and I too mixed up enough to pour a
one inch or so slab into a plastic container I had also sitting around
the newbio. =20
Perhaps your slab broke because it was too weak, but it might also have
broken because you didn't have a really flat bottom to it. Sand it down
next time on the side that will sit on the bench top. I will let you
know how mine went as soon as I carve it up this week. =20
Are you using number 1 potter plaster? I would think that stuff is
pretty hard enough. Granted, in Ian's book, his form looks to be 1.5 to
2 inchs thick. =20
How soft is your clay when you roll? Softer will be easier on the mold.
True, if you want to eliminate that as a possibility, you need to be
pretty close to the right proportions of water to plaster, but I
wouldn't think that you had to be spot on. Of course I'm as green as
the grass, soes youse better take someone's other word for it, doncha
know.
Taylor, in Waco
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Linda Pahl
Sent: Saturday, February 21, 2004 9:43 AM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Making Plaster Molds for Ian Currie's Grid Tiles
...
In the event that the workshop actually pans out, I thought I would
prepare for it by making a few plaster molds for the grid tiles.
(Thought I'd jump in by trying a grid using the flux materials of my
Juicy Turquoise glaze for the corner "C" glaze. I am hoping to
discover at what point varying the amounts of silica/alumina effect the
turquoise color response from copper.)
My initial plaster mold was about an inch thick and took a bit of time
to make with the carving for the raised edges around the perimeter of
the tile and outlines for each square (I also added some extra detail
in each square to show the breaking effect of glazes) I allowed the
mold to dry for a couple of days and when I rolled my first slab of
clay on it the dang thing cracked in two.
...
Hendrix, Taylor J. on sun 22 feb 04
John:
Don't take this the wrong way, but....
I LOVE YOU!
Why is it one still needs to hear (or read) things one already knows
before the light comes on?
Taylor, in Waco
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of John
Hesselberth
Sent: Saturday, February 21, 2004 5:57 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: Making Plaster Molds for Ian Currie's Grid Tiles
Hi Linda,
Don't use plaster. Find a woodworking friend with a router and a piece
of wood. With a v-shaped router bit he/she can made you a press mold
from wood in about 10 minutes. Cut the v's in a flat piece of wood;
then add some pieces around the edge and you're done.
Regards,
John
Linda Pahl on mon 23 feb 04
Hi fellow Clayarters.
You are a generous group and I would like to thank those that responded
to my query re the making of a mold for the Currie grid tiles.
I now have two alternatives to try that I think will work much better
for me: making a wood mold (the quickest method and likely works
great) or making a clay model and either casting in plaster from that
or firing the clay model and making a latex mold from that (which I've
never done before -- should be interesting to try).
Thanks again for all of your helpful suggestions.
Warm regards,
Linda Pahl, Kew Gardens, New York
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
email: TheClosetPotter@earthlink.net
website: http://home.earthlink.net/~jessieadair/tests/
///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
///////////////
Charles Moore on mon 23 feb 04
Hi, Linda,
You can more easily make a clay master for grid tiles and bisque it. It
will serve the same purpose as a plaster grid master. I made one recently
about 1/2 inch thick and let it dry very slowly. I chose a clay with a good
bit of grog. I did the carving when the master was about leather. Then I
made grids out of clay about the same thickness and again dried slowly.
Hope it works for you.
Charles
----- Original Message -----
From: "Linda Pahl"
To:
Sent: Monday, February 23, 2004 6:32 AM
Subject: Re: Making Plaster Molds for Ian Currie's Grid Tiles
> Hi fellow Clayarters.
>
> You are a generous group and I would like to thank those that responded
> to my query re the making of a mold for the Currie grid tiles.
>
> I now have two alternatives to try that I think will work much better
> for me: making a wood mold (the quickest method and likely works
> great) or making a clay model and either casting in plaster from that
> or firing the clay model and making a latex mold from that (which I've
> never done before -- should be interesting to try).
>
> Thanks again for all of your helpful suggestions.
>
> Warm regards,
> Linda Pahl, Kew Gardens, New York
>
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>
> email: TheClosetPotter@earthlink.net
> website: http://home.earthlink.net/~jessieadair/tests/
>
> ///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
> ///////////////
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
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