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signing your name

updated mon 8 mar 04

 

Lor & Jas White on tue 2 mar 04


Hi everyone,
Just wondering how all you sign your name on your pots. I've just been =
signing with a pencil then glazing over. It's fine for the transparent =
glazes but not the really opaque ones. Cant even tell my name is there =
at all. Just wondering if theres a better way?? I tried wiping off the =
glaze and leaving the glaze in the cracks it looked pretty good but too =
much work also I really want the bottom of my pots glazed. Any advice?
Thanks, Loryn

Cat Jarosz on wed 3 mar 04


In a message dated 3/3/2004 7:06:58 AM Eastern Standard Time,
ljwhite@RENINET.COM writes:
Just wondering how all you sign your name on your pots. I've just been =
signing with a pencil then glazing over. It's fine for the transparent =
glazes but not the really opaque ones. Cant even tell my name is there =
at all. Just wondering if theres a better way?? I tried wiping off the =
glaze and leaving the glaze in the cracks it looked pretty good but too =
much work also I really want the bottom of my pots glazed. Any advice?
I thought this message needed the paragraph I included above sorry if it
bugs anyone.

Dear Lori I use a pen usually old bic to sign my pots bottoms.. when bone
dry I use a green scrubbie to clean it up. I wax the name with liquid wax while
waxing the bottoms before glazing and it does the trick of keeping glaze off
your name... pretty simple , hope this helps ,

Cat Jarosz in wet nc mnts thinking about tic season thats coming up and
thinking FRONTLINE or tweezer the little buggers and send to Mel?? Those things
still gross me out after all these yrs.. heck I itch thinking about em..
ewwwwwwwwwwwwww

jklay on wed 3 mar 04


Do what glass people do, engrave your signature with a Dremel tool.
John
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lor & Jas White"
To:
Sent: Tuesday, March 02, 2004 10:07 PM
Subject: Signing your name


Hi everyone,
Just wondering how all you sign your name on your pots. I've just been
signing with a pencil then glazing over. It's fine for the transparent
glazes but not the really opaque ones. Cant even tell my name is there at
all. Just wondering if theres a better way?? I tried wiping off the glaze
and leaving the glaze in the cracks it looked pretty good but too much work
also I really want the bottom of my pots glazed. Any advice?
Thanks, Loryn

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Laura Kneppel on wed 3 mar 04


Hi Loryn,
A good sharp stick is good to inscribe your name on the bottom of a
leatherhard pot. Unless you glaze really thick you can usually still
make out your name under an opaque glaze. And if you do glaze thick,
give the bottom over your name a quick wipe with a sponge. Don't sign
with a pin tool - too light.

Laurie
Sacramento, CA (who didn't follow the above rule in a college class one
semester and had a number of glazed pots "disappear" never to be seen
again after the glaze rendered them anonymous)

On Mar 2, 2004, at 8:07 PM, Lor & Jas White wrote:

> Hi everyone,
> Just wondering how all you sign your name on your pots.

Mildred Herot on wed 3 mar 04


HI: I have an old ball point pen and sign my name with it. Since the point
is only about 1/8th of an inch long I have no problem and it works just
fine.....Mildred Herot
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lor & Jas White"
To:
Sent: Tuesday, March 02, 2004 11:07 PM
Subject: Signing your name


Hi everyone,
Just wondering how all you sign your name on your pots. I've just been
signing with a pencil then glazing over. It's fine for the transparent
glazes but not the really opaque ones. Cant even tell my name is there at
all. Just wondering if theres a better way?? I tried wiping off the glaze
and leaving the glaze in the cracks it looked pretty good but too much work
also I really want the bottom of my pots glazed. Any advice?
Thanks, Loryn

____________________________________________________________________________
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org

You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/

Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.

Catherine Yassin on wed 3 mar 04


In a message dated 3/3/2004 11:46:37 AM Central Standard Time,
Cat81257@AOL.COM writes:

> Dear Lori I use a pen usually old bic to sign my pots bottoms.. when bone
> dry I use a green scrubbie to clean it up. I wax the name with liquid wax
> while
> waxing the bottoms before glazing and it does the trick of keeping glaze off
> your name... pretty simple , hope this helps ,

Cat, can you explain a little more about your waxing the name part of your
pots before glazing? Do you use a fine paintbrush and carefully fill in the
indention of your name with the liquid wax? Or am I making it seem more difficult
than it really is?
Thanks!
-Cat (The other "Cat") Yassin
San Antonio, Tx

Cat Jarosz on wed 3 mar 04


Dear "other" Cat,

I use the same brush I wax bottoms with which is a kind of mop type brush
... Its no big deal, just try it next time you wax bottoms with what ever
brush you use. As long as the name is covered thats all that counts.. generally
just a bloop and its done... its good to have a name with only 3 letters
sometimes Wamest regards, Cat Jarosz

David Hendley on wed 3 mar 04


Loryn, if you want to sign your name on a pot with a glazed bottom,
try using overglaze. Sign with a brush after glazing.
This will work great if you use dark or black overglaze on a light
colored glaze, and the glaze is not runny.
It will not work if the glaze moves a lot. You will just have to try
it to see how it works with your glaze.
For a simple black overglaze, mix half red iron oxide and half your
glaze, plus an added 3% cobalt oxide and 10% kaolin.
David Hendley
david@farmpots.com
http://www.farmpots.com



----- Original Message -----
Just wondering how all you sign your name on your pots. I've just been
signing with a pencil then glazing over. It's fine for the transparent
glazes but not the really opaque ones. Cant even tell my name is there at
all. Just wondering if theres a better way?? I tried wiping off the glaze
and leaving the glaze in the cracks it looked pretty good but too much work
also I really want the bottom of my pots glazed. Any advice?
Thanks, Loryn

S.E.W. on wed 3 mar 04


Loryn,
Do you make your pieces yourself, for example, do you use a wheel =
or slip cast? Or do you buy bisque that is already made and fired? If =
you make it yourself, I use a carving tool and etch my signature into =
the piece when it is still greenware. That way it is carved into the =
piece and you don't need to worry about glazing over it. If you buy your =
pieces as bisque, just use a permanent marker and sign it after it is =
finished. It is as simple as that!=20
Rachel

Ivor and Olive Lewis on thu 4 mar 04


Dear Loryn,
I have used a Reed, with the end cut to a chisel edge to make broad,
deep, calligraphic sharp edged strokes which collect the glaze. A
brief wipe with a damp sponge removes excess glaze and gives a clear
cut imprint. If a reed is not available, thin bamboo will substitute.
Both are excellent tools for making decorative, flowing flourishes in
wet or damp clay.
Best regards
Ivor Lewis. Redhill, South Australia

pdp1@EARTHLINK.NET on thu 4 mar 04


Hi Ivor,


You'r mention are getting all my posts for the moment, then
off to beddie-bye-land for this boy...


But your 'Reed'...sounds so very nice a method...


Somewhat after the fashion of them Babylonians of old in
it's way...very clean...



G'night,


Phil
lvee



----- Original Message -----
From: "Ivor and Olive Lewis"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, March 03, 2004 7:13 PM
Subject: Re: Signing your name


> Dear Loryn,
> I have used a Reed, with the end cut to a chisel edge to
make broad,
> deep, calligraphic sharp edged strokes which collect the
glaze. A
> brief wipe with a damp sponge removes excess glaze and
gives a clear
> cut imprint. If a reed is not available, thin bamboo will
substitute.
> Both are excellent tools for making decorative, flowing
flourishes in
> wet or damp clay.
> Best regards
> Ivor Lewis. Redhill, South Australia
>
>
____________________________________________________________
__________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your
subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached
at melpots@pclink.com.

David Hewitt on thu 4 mar 04


Like others I inscribe my mark on the base. My mark is my initials in
capitals combined. This requires just three strokes. I also inscribe
below the mark the date, such as 040304 for to-days date.
David
In message , Lor & Jas White writes
>Hi everyone,
>Just wondering how all you sign your name on your pots. I've just been signing
>with a pencil then glazing over. It's fine for the transparent glazes but not
>the really opaque ones. Cant even tell my name is there at all. Just wondering
>if theres a better way?? I tried wiping off the glaze and leaving the glaze in
>the cracks it looked pretty good but too much work also I really want the bottom
>of my pots glazed. Any advice?
> Thanks, Loryn

--
David Hewitt
David Hewitt Pottery
South Wales UK
Web:- http://www.dhpot.demon.co.uk

claybair on thu 4 mar 04


I bought a bamboo pen at Daniel Smith art Supply.
It is one piece with a nib shape at either end.
It reminded me of the old quill pens but larger.
It was only $2.
I usually sign my name with a brushstroke of slip
then use any handy tool to incise my name.

However last week I made a chop with my initial
out of a (of all things) a chopstick. I sanded down
the thick end and used a Dremmel fine point to carve
my design.
During this process I had an epiphany. Over the years
I have repeatedly used spirals as a theme in my work.
While making this chop I realized the "G" in my name is a
spiral... DUH!!!

Gayle Bair
Bainbridge Island, WA
http://claybair.com

-----Original Message-----
From: Ivor

Dear Loryn,
I have used a Reed, with the end cut to a chisel edge to make broad,
deep, calligraphic sharp edged strokes which collect the glaze. A
brief wipe with a damp sponge removes excess glaze and gives a clear
cut imprint. If a reed is not available, thin bamboo will substitute.
Both are excellent tools for making decorative, flowing flourishes in
wet or damp clay.
Best regards
Ivor Lewis. Redhill, South Australia

Susan Fox-Hirschmann on thu 4 mar 04


I use an underglaze pencil....sometimes green, sometimes pink, sometimes
black, and make sure it is legible as there have been occasions where people have
seen my work, read the signature underneath and actually found me and bought
from me.....so initialing the work will just not do! I once got a call from a
cleaning lady, who had seen one of my mirrors hanging in a lady/s home that she
cleaned....and it sparked interest in my work and eventually ended up in
another sale!
I have always take just a few more seconds to inscribe "Enjoy!" which
always makes people smile, may sound a tad goofy to some....but my feeling is my
work only reaches the circle of completion once it is has found a home/office
where it can be enjoyed.
Susan Fox Hirschmann
Annandale, VA

Marta Matray Gloviczki on thu 4 mar 04


hi gayle,
i dont know what epifunny means,
but now that you say so,
i realize that my name also has a spiral!
thanks!!!
:-))
marta


claybair wrote:

>During this process I had an epiphany. Over the years
>I have repeatedly used spirals as a theme in my work.
>While making this chop I realized the "G" in my name is a
>spiral... DUH!!!

Lor & Jas White on thu 4 mar 04


Yeah maybe I need something a little hardier than just a ball point pen.
The bamboo thing sounds good thanks.
Loryn
----- Original Message -----
From: "claybair"
To:
Sent: Thursday, March 04, 2004 11:53 AM
Subject: Re: Signing your name


> I bought a bamboo pen at Daniel Smith art Supply.
> It is one piece with a nib shape at either end.
> It reminded me of the old quill pens but larger.
> It was only $2.
> I usually sign my name with a brushstroke of slip
> then use any handy tool to incise my name.
>
> However last week I made a chop with my initial
> out of a (of all things) a chopstick. I sanded down
> the thick end and used a Dremmel fine point to carve
> my design.
> During this process I had an epiphany. Over the years
> I have repeatedly used spirals as a theme in my work.
> While making this chop I realized the "G" in my name is a
> spiral... DUH!!!
>
> Gayle Bair
> Bainbridge Island, WA
> http://claybair.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ivor
>
> Dear Loryn,
> I have used a Reed, with the end cut to a chisel edge to make broad,
> deep, calligraphic sharp edged strokes which collect the glaze. A
> brief wipe with a damp sponge removes excess glaze and gives a clear
> cut imprint. If a reed is not available, thin bamboo will substitute.
> Both are excellent tools for making decorative, flowing flourishes in
> wet or damp clay.
> Best regards
> Ivor Lewis. Redhill, South Australia
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>

Lor & Jas White on thu 4 mar 04


Hi David,
I'm pretty unfamiliar with overglazes. What do you fire it to after signing
or do you just apply it directly over your unfired glaze? What would you
use on a glaze like Licorice (dark brown) Rutile? It sounds interesting can
u give me more information?
Thanks Loryn
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Hendley"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, March 03, 2004 6:41 PM
Subject: Re: Signing your name


> Loryn, if you want to sign your name on a pot with a glazed bottom,
> try using overglaze. Sign with a brush after glazing.
> This will work great if you use dark or black overglaze on a light
> colored glaze, and the glaze is not runny.
> It will not work if the glaze moves a lot. You will just have to try
> it to see how it works with your glaze.
> For a simple black overglaze, mix half red iron oxide and half your
> glaze, plus an added 3% cobalt oxide and 10% kaolin.
> David Hendley
> david@farmpots.com
> http://www.farmpots.com
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> Just wondering how all you sign your name on your pots. I've just been
> signing with a pencil then glazing over. It's fine for the transparent
> glazes but not the really opaque ones. Cant even tell my name is there at
> all. Just wondering if theres a better way?? I tried wiping off the
glaze
> and leaving the glaze in the cracks it looked pretty good but too much
work
> also I really want the bottom of my pots glazed. Any advice?
> Thanks, Loryn
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>

Ivor and Olive Lewis on sat 6 mar 04


Dear Friends,
A good calligraphy book usually has instructions for cutting quills
and reeds. The same process can be used to fashion a good broad marker
from bamboo
Best regards,
Ivor Lewis. Redhill, South Australia

Steve Mills on sun 7 mar 04


I have a small biscuit-ware stamp of my *trademark* that I impress into
the piece in the leather hard stage together with another that says
*Bath*.

>Hi everyone,
>Just wondering how all you sign your name on your pots.

--
Steve Mills
Bath
UK