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what's up with the cones?

updated thu 15 apr 04

 

Cheryl Weickert on wed 24 mar 04


Earl, I'm having the same thing here, the cone 7 looks exactly like the
cone 6 after firing. Am I firing to cone 6 or 7? Are the cones
defective? I'm still getting pin holes too, is that because they are fired
too high? When I refire the pots the pinhole disappear. Yikes, don't know
if I'll ever figure all of this out, the more I know, I realize the less I
know!

Pinky in MN where some of the snow is finally melting eager to see the
green of spring.

On Tue, 23 Mar 2004 20:24:27 -0800, Earl Krueger
wrote:

> From my last kiln run the large 6 and 7 cones
>came out bent almost exactly the same. Haven't
>figured that one out yet.
>
>Earl K...
>Bothell, WA, USA

Arnold Howard on wed 24 mar 04


On 10-28-96, Orton changed many of the cone temperatures. Perhaps you are
comparing cones that were made before 10-28-96 with cones made after.

Temperatures of cones 6 and 7:

Early cone 6: 2199
Present cone 6: 2232

Early cone 7: 2228
Present cone 7: 2262

Sincerely,

Arnold Howard
Paragon Industries, L.P.
arnoldhoward@att.net

----- Original Message -----
From: "Cheryl Weickert"
> ...the cone 7 looks exactly like the
> cone 6 after firing. Am I firing to cone 6 or 7? Are the cones
> defective?

Susan Fox-Hirschmann on wed 24 mar 04


In a message dated 3/24/2004 5:10:47 PM Eastern Standard Time,
arnoldhoward@ATT.NET writes:

<<
On 10-28-96, Orton changed many of the cone temperatures. Perhaps you are
comparing cones that were made before 10-28-96 with cones made after.

Temperatures of cones 6 and 7:

Early cone 6: 2199
Present cone 6: 2232 >>


Are there temp changes in the large cones as well? the self-supporting cones
and those that are not self-supporting? first time I heard this info!
Susan
Annandale, VA

Arnold Howard on thu 25 mar 04


From: "Susan Fox-Hirschmann"
> arnoldhoward@ATT.NET writes:
> On 10-28-96, Orton changed many of the cone temperatures. Perhaps you are
> comparing cones that were made before 10-28-96 with cones made after.
>
> Temperatures of cones 6 and 7:
>
> Early cone 6: 2199
> Present cone 6: 2232 >>
>
>
> Are there temp changes in the large cones as well? the self-supporting
cones
> and those that are not self-supporting? first time I heard this info!
> Susan
> Annandale, VA

I assume that the temperature changes affected both large and
self-supporting cones. Some of the cones didn't change. Cones 9 and 10
remained the same. The current cone 8 is only 7 degrees hotter than
pre-10-96 cones.

The cones that had the biggest temperature change were 6 and 7. A pre-10-96
cone 7 and current cone 6 will bend the same. I can see why this would
cause so much confusion for someone who has a collection of older cones.

Sincerely,

Arnold Howard
Paragon Industries, L.P.
arnoldhoward@att.net

claybair on thu 25 mar 04


Arnold,

Do you know why these changes were made?

TIA

Gayle Bair
Bainbridge Island, WA
http://claybair.com

-----Original Message-----
From:Arnold Howard

From: "Susan Fox-Hirschmann"
> arnoldhoward@ATT.NET writes:
> On 10-28-96, Orton changed many of the cone temperatures. Perhaps you are
> comparing cones that were made before 10-28-96 with cones made after.
>
> Temperatures of cones 6 and 7:
>
> Early cone 6: 2199
> Present cone 6: 2232 >>
>
>
> Are there temp changes in the large cones as well? the self-supporting
cones
> and those that are not self-supporting? first time I heard this info!
> Susan
> Annandale, VA

I assume that the temperature changes affected both large and
self-supporting cones. Some of the cones didn't change. Cones 9 and 10
remained the same. The current cone 8 is only 7 degrees hotter than
pre-10-96 cones.

The cones that had the biggest temperature change were 6 and 7. A pre-10-96
cone 7 and current cone 6 will bend the same. I can see why this would
cause so much confusion for someone who has a collection of older cones.

Sincerely,

Arnold Howard
Paragon Industries, L.P.
arnoldhoward@att.net

Ron Roy on thu 25 mar 04


Two cones going down at the same time usually means a fast firing. In this
case it also explains why refiring cures the pinholes. Slow the firing down
to 50C per hour for the the last 50C and soak for 15 to 20 minutes starting
before the cone has bent to where you want to stop.

RR



>Earl, I'm having the same thing here, the cone 7 looks exactly like the
>cone 6 after firing. Am I firing to cone 6 or 7? Are the cones
>defective? I'm still getting pin holes too, is that because they are fired
>too high? When I refire the pots the pinhole disappear. Yikes, don't know
>if I'll ever figure all of this out, the more I know, I realize the less I
>know!

Ron Roy
RR#4
15084 Little Lake Road
Brighton, Ontario
Canada
K0K 1H0
Phone: 613-475-9544
Fax: 613-475-3513

wayneinkeywest on thu 25 mar 04


Ron:
Lots of us have electric kilns with just three, three position
switches. In my case, lo, med. and high, and not infinitely
variable switches. How do you slow down a firing given only those 3
position controls?

Wayne Seidl

> Two cones going down at the same time usually means a fast firing.
In this
> case it also explains why refiring cures the pinholes. Slow the
firing down
> to 50C per hour for the the last 50C and soak for 15 to 20 minutes
starting
> before the cone has bent to where you want to stop.
>
> RR
>

Merrie Boerner on thu 25 mar 04


Wayne,
I love my skutt 1027 with three knobs....I can do the slow hand and
never blow up pots.....computer controllers scare me....I like to be in
control....especially of my bisque firings. I have heard horror stories
about not being able to slow down the computer control. I haven't really
shopped around or read up on them, cause my 18 year old skutt keeps on
chuggin along.
By the way, I'm not just a hot woodfiring lady....I do beautiful cone
6....have for 18 years.....tiny crystals on top of green.....still a thrill
:>) Okay...I feel like somebody somewhere is a tad disappointed in me. You
can't please everybody all the time. The longer I'm in clay, the broader my
joy.
You want to know weird cone stories ?!? In my woodfire kiln, I've had 13
down and 12 standing on the same cone pack. I've had 12 bending backwards
and kissing 13. Cones have rocked and rolled in my kiln.....must be the
humidity.
Merrie in Mississippi

Wayne wrote;
Ron:
Lots of us have electric kilns with just three, three position
switches. In my case, lo, med. and high, and not infinitely
variable switches. How do you slow down a firing given only those 3
position controls?

Wayne Seidl




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Cheryl Weickert on fri 26 mar 04


Thanks Ron, you confirmed my thoughts. When I opened the kiln today the
cone 6 was down and cone 7 at about 2 o'clock. I still had a few pinholes
but nothing compared to what I've been getting this far. The next firing I
will fire slower on the way up and continue to fire down slowly. This last
firing I also washed the pots with distilled water before glazing them
instead of our hard tap water, do you think the minerals in our water could
make a difference in the amount of pinholes too?

Pinky.. in MN where spring is finally arriving, yahoo, the snow may all
melt in our yard by next week. I swear we have winter in our yard longer
than any where else except maybe the south pole!

On Thu, 25 Mar 2004 11:57:07 -0500, Ron Roy wrote:

>Two cones going down at the same time usually means a fast firing. In this
>case it also explains why refiring cures the pinholes. Slow the firing down
>to 50C per hour for the the last 50C and soak for 15 to 20 minutes starting
>before the cone has bent to where you want to stop.
>
>RR

Snail Scott on sun 28 mar 04


At 03:33 PM 3/25/04 -0500, you wrote:
>Lots of us have electric kilns with just three, three position
>switches. In my case, lo, med. and high, and not infinitely
>variable switches. How do you slow down a firing given only those 3
>position controls?


Keep the kiln at 'medium' longer than you
usually would. Then turn up only the top
and bottom elements to 'high' for a while,
before turning it all to 'high'.

When you're within a cone or so of your
intended firing temp, turn the middle
element to 'medium'. This is usually
plenty to stall it out. Heat-work may
allow it to gradually reach your intended
cone, but much slower. If not, give it more
time on all 'high', then put the middle to
'medium' again. A little experimentation
will do the trick.

-Snail

Arnold Howard on tue 13 apr 04


In 1996 Orton had to reformulate some of their pyrometric cones because they
could no longer obtain certain raw materials. This is why some of the cones
made before 10-28-96 bend at slightly different temperatures than the ones
made after. At the time, this caused a lot of confusion. The main cone
affected by the change was cone 6.

Sincerely,

Arnold Howard
Paragon Industries, L.P.
arnoldhoward@att.net

From: "claybair"
> Arnold,
> Do you know why these changes were made?
> Gayle Bair
> Bainbridge Island, WA
> http://claybair.com

> -----Original Message-----
> From:Arnold Howard
> > On 10-28-96, Orton changed many of the cone temperatures. Perhaps you
are
> > comparing cones that were made before 10-28-96 with cones made after.
> >
> > Temperatures of cones 6 and 7:
> >
> > Early cone 6: 2199
> > Present cone 6: 2232 >>

Mike Gordon on tue 13 apr 04


> Hi,
I've had 2 cone - 04cones in my last 2 bisque fireings crack about
1/8th " up from the cone pads. same place on each. The cone was at the
end of the bend and would have had the tip touch if it hadn't broken.
Any explanations? Mike Gordon
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Bruce Girrell on wed 14 apr 04


> I've had 2 cone - 04cones in my last 2 bisque fireings crack about
> 1/8th " up from the cone pads. same place on each. The cone was at the
> end of the bend and would have had the tip touch if it hadn't broken.

How are you making your cone packs?

I have had a similar breakage on cones, but I was able to attribute it to
impressing the cones into moist clay and allowing them to sit for a while
before firing. I believe that the moisture from the clay weakens the cone as
it is adsorbed into the cone.

Bruce Girrell
in SUNNY northern Michigan