COREY J SCHMIDT on thu 8 apr 04
I have been doing Raku pottery for some time now, however I really have to
work to get nice rims on my Raku pots. I have used several types of clay
bodies. Columbia buff with extra grog ^10 and now Seattle pottery's Raku II
^06-1. The Raku II has been the worst as far as the grog getting in the way
of a nice finished pot rim. Any suggestions? I want a clay that is
responsive with throwing as well as one that can be used for hand building.
I fire my Raku at ^06-04, but would consider going higher in temperature.
Is there something I can do during the throwing of the pot that will help me
with this problem?
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logan johnson on thu 8 apr 04
Hi Cory,
I know this seems pretty basic But if you don't do this one thing you might find that it helps. After trimming do you burnish the rim with a thin metal kidney rib while the pot is on the wheel? Or a smooth stone or something like it if you don't use a wheel?
Logan J.
In (this weekend anyway) Sunny Seattle
COREY J SCHMIDT wrote:
I have been doing Raku pottery for some time now, however I really have to
work to get nice rims on my Raku pots. I have used several types of clay
bodies. Columbia buff with extra grog ^10 and now Seattle pottery's Raku II
^06-1. The Raku II has been the worst as far as the grog getting in the way
of a nice finished pot rim. Any suggestions? I want a clay that is
responsive with throwing as well as one that can be used for hand building.
I fire my Raku at ^06-04, but would consider going higher in temperature.
Is there something I can do during the throwing of the pot that will help me
with this problem?
_________________________________________________________________
Persistent heartburn? Check out Digestive Health & Wellness for information
and advice. http://gerd.msn.com/default.asp
______________________________________________________________________________
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Logan Johnson Audeo Studios
www.audeostudios.com
"Carpe Argillam!!"
Hal Giddens on fri 9 apr 04
Standard sells a very good raku clay. It's called 239 Raku Clay.
>
> From: COREY J SCHMIDT
> Date: 2004/04/08 Thu PM 07:09:56 EDT
> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Subject: nice rims with raku clays
>
> I have been doing Raku pottery for some time now, however I really have to
> work to get nice rims on my Raku pots. I have used several types of clay
> bodies. Columbia buff with extra grog ^10 and now Seattle pottery's Raku II
> ^06-1. The Raku II has been the worst as far as the grog getting in the way
> of a nice finished pot rim. Any suggestions? I want a clay that is
> responsive with throwing as well as one that can be used for hand building.
> I fire my Raku at ^06-04, but would consider going higher in temperature.
> Is there something I can do during the throwing of the pot that will help me
> with this problem?
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Persistent heartburn? Check out Digestive Health & Wellness for information
> and advice. http://gerd.msn.com/default.asp
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
daniel on fri 9 apr 04
Hey Corey,
I have been using a terra sig on my rims of late. It gives a really nice
black with some shine, depending on how you polish it. I have no photo on my
site yet of how it turns out, but I'll try to get one up this w/e and I'll
let you know and you can see if it interests you to try. I find the sig can
be put on thickly enough to cover most small grog that I get in Laguna's
soldate 60. I am not familiar with the clays you mention.
Otherwise its burnish or glaze I guess. I have tried porcelain (though not
a raku porcelain) but its hard to not break it.
Thanx
D
Kim Peterson on fri 9 apr 04
I use Soldate 60 for just about everything I do that doesn't require porc...
Kim
> >
> > I have been doing Raku pottery for some time now, however I really have
>to
> > work to get nice rims on my Raku pots. I have used several types of
>clay
> > bodies. Columbia buff with extra grog ^10 and now Seattle pottery's
>Raku II
> > ^06-1. The Raku II has been the worst as far as the grog getting in the
>way
> > of a nice finished pot rim. Any suggestions? I want a clay that is
> > responsive with throwing as well as one that can be used for hand
>building.
> > I fire my Raku at ^06-04, but would consider going higher in
>temperature.
> > Is there something I can do during the throwing of the pot that will
>help me
> > with this problem?
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > Persistent heartburn? Check out Digestive Health & Wellness for
>information
> > and advice. http://gerd.msn.com/default.asp
> >
> >
>______________________________________________________________________________
> > Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >
> > You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> > settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> >
> > Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.
> >
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.
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Anne Webb on fri 9 apr 04
hey corey...
we use Standard 239 Raku clay and it is excellent. we have very little
problems with grog. its a *happy* clay body that gives good colour response
and really is a pleasure to throw. works well for throwing or handbuilding.
as far as temperature range,we've taken it to ^10 but it looks more *groggy*
around rims.
we use it for raku and primitive firing.
somebody also told me that a recipe called "Zap Clay" works really well for
raku though i've not tried it myself.
best of luck.
anne
> I want a clay that is
>responsive with throwing as well as one that can be used for hand building.
>I fire my Raku at ^06-04, but would consider going higher in temperature.
>Is there something I can do during the throwing of the pot that will help
>me
>with this problem?
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Laurie Kneppel on fri 9 apr 04
Hi Corey,
If you can get it, you might try IMCO Sculpture 412. I finish the rims
with a chamois, which give a little compression while they are still
pretty wet and on the wheel. For extra smoothness, burnish the rims
after you trim with a wooden tool or stone, or whatever you like to
burnish with. I suppose you could even use something like a stilt stone
on them after they are bisqued, but I've never done that.
Laurie
Sacramento, CA
>
> Is there something I can do during the throwing of the pot that will
> help me
> with this problem?
Phil Smith on fri 9 apr 04
Hi Folks,
I use Laguna's S-60 for Raku.
Prefer it over Soldate for a few reasons.
Throws well, Very plastic. Good for very large work.
Cracks less on cooling.
Can refire many times without major cracks.
I believe it is a sculpture body.
Since S-60 is a cone ten body i'm not committed to Raku with the work.
Fires toasty in Reduction.
I use a piece of the clay bag over a rim to smooth it out.
Phil...
william schran on fri 9 apr 04
Corey wrote: >I have been doing Raku pottery for some time now,
however I really have to
work to get nice rims on my Raku pots..... Is there something I can
do during the throwing of the pot that will help me with this
problem?<
You want to stay away from techniques that would use lots of water -
that will wash away the smooth clays, exposing the grog.
Try using a piece of plastic wrapped over the rim with a little
pressure. This will burnish/smooth the rim. Just cut a piece from
your clay bag.
Bill
Ivor and Olive Lewis on sat 10 apr 04
Dear Hal Giddens,
Good, but could that clay suffer from the same problem if it were
further loaded with #10 Grog?
Best regards,
Ivor Lewis. Redhill, South Australia
Ivor and Olive Lewis on sat 10 apr 04
Dear Corey Schmidt,
I have done very little with Raku but I think I can explain where your
problem is arising.
Even if you have spent time ensuring that the rims of your pots are
absolutely smooth, Grog which has already been fired to maturity,
because it is impervious and vitrified, will not shrink in your bisque
firing. Therefore the unfired portion of the clay body shrinks away
from the grits. As you are adding extra, quite coarse, material to an
already grogged body the effect will be exaggerated. So grog stands up
and breaks through the glaze, marring the good finish you are seeking.
I cannot see that firing to a higher bisque temperature would prevent
the problem.
A possible general solution might be to compound coarsely grogged
bodies using Bisque Grog, but this may be impossible for several
reasons.
I h ope you find a solution.
Best regards,
Ivor Lewis. Redhill, South Australia
Ivor and Olive Lewis on sat 10 apr 04
Dear William Schran,
Good to see you read the question and recognise one root cause of the
difficulty being faced by Corey. Many other respondents did not do
this.
I like your answer, pointing out that excess water sluices the fines
away from the grog. Factual and to the point .
Best regards,
Ivor Lewis. Redhill, South Australia
Craig Dunn Clark on sat 10 apr 04
Ivor is correct. You really don't want to wash away the fines as they
are not in the number in a raku body to begin with. What works for me it to
use a shammy cloth on the rim to finish when throwing. I may also do this
quikly after trimming if there is any roughness that has persisted.
Another thing to try is to use a slip on the rim and finish it. This may
give you the degree of smoothness that you are after.
I currently use Lagunas WS4 for the larger pieces, Armadillos Buffallo
Wallo for the smaller stuff and occassionally still make my own. They all
finish out pretty well.
Hope this helps
Craig Dunn Clark
619 East 11 1/2 st
Houston, Texas 77008
(713)861-2083
mudman@hal-pc.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ivor and Olive Lewis"
To:
Sent: Friday, April 09, 2004 10:54 PM
Subject: Re: nice rims with raku clays
> Dear William Schran,
> Good to see you read the question and recognise one root cause of the
> difficulty being faced by Corey. Many other respondents did not do
> this.
> I like your answer, pointing out that excess water sluices the fines
> away from the grog. Factual and to the point .
> Best regards,
> Ivor Lewis. Redhill, South Australia
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
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>
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melpots@pclink.com.
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