Valice Raffi on sat 17 apr 04
I've been asked to add words to a communion plate which has been used and
washed. The client was hoping that I would do this in glaze and fire it
for permanence.
I let the client know that this might not be possible (would it blow up?),
but that I'd look at other options. Seems that most of the ideas that were
suggested for the swimming pool tiles would work, but has anyone tried
re-glazing (adding words) to a used plate?
TIA (thanks in advance!)
Valice
in Sacramento
Roger Korn on sat 17 apr 04
There is some risk here: the plate must be really dry (keep in a 180 F.
oven for a week), and the overglaze lettering must not disturb the
existing "underglaze" (use low-fire china paint or majolica - no more
than ^06). If the client is risk adverse, I'd walk away, but it should
work, unless the existing glaze or body are extremely low-fire. Appling
the overglaze lettering on the existing glaze, you may have crawling
problems, so I'd add 1/4% CMC to the overglaze to minimize this risk
Hope this helps,
Roger
Valice wrote:
I've been asked to add words to a communion plate which has been used and
washed. The client was hoping that I would do this in glaze and fire it
for permanence.
I let the client know that this might not be possible (would it blow up?),
but that I'd look at other options. Seems that most of the ideas that were
suggested for the swimming pool tiles would work, but has anyone tried
re-glazing (adding words) to a used plate?
TIA (thanks in advance!)
Valice
in Sacramento
--
McKay Creek Ceramics
In OR: PO Box 436
North Plains, OR 97133
503-647-5464
In AZ: PO Box 463
Rimrock, AZ 86335
928-567-5699
Paul Lewing on sat 17 apr 04
on 4/17/04 7:05 AM, Valice Raffi at valice1@EARTHLINK.NET wrote:
> I've been asked to add words to a communion plate which has been used and
> washed. The client was hoping that I would do this in glaze and fire it
> for permanence.
>
> I let the client know that this might not be possible (would it blow up?),
> but that I'd look at other options. Seems that most of the ideas that were
> suggested for the swimming pool tiles would work, but has anyone tried
> re-glazing (adding words) to a used plate?
Valice, you can indeed do this. You need china paints or overglaze enamels,
which you'd fire to cone 016 or so. Doing it with glaze at any higher
temperature would be risky, because you don't know (I assume) what
temperature it was fired to in the first place. It's possible you could
screw up the existing glaze.
I've been having great fun lately buying used dinnerware from places like
Salvation Army and value Village and china painting on them. I call them
"Rescued Pots". (Sounds like something David Hendley would do, don't you
think?) I've had one crack, one develop blisters, and a few fuse very
slightly to the shelf. I've never had one blow up, and I wouldn't expect
one to unless it had been really wet for a long time. If the piece has been
exposed to lots of grease over its life, you may get carbon trapping,
especially in any cracks or crazes. If you suspect that may have happened
(unlikely in a communion plate) boil it in sodium carbonate (soda ash, or
dishwasher detergent) for a while and then let it get really dry before you
fire it.
When you go to do the lettering, a thick overglaze, either oil- or
water-based will be much easier to control than regular water-based glaze,
even commercial glaze that has a lot of gum in it. You can put it on wither
with a brush or a pen. If you use a brush, you may use either a flat or
round brush, depending on what font you'd like to use. If you use a round,
I'd recommend getting a real script brush. You'd be amazed at the
difference it will make. And if you use a pen, you'd use an old-fashioned
lettering pen that you dip in the ink, either a pointed nib or a flat one,
although with a pointed one you can make only very fine lines.
With oil-based china paint you may also opt to apply an area of solid color
and wipe your letters out, using a flat wipeout tool of rubber or plastic,
or a flat nib in a lettering pen.
One of the joys of china paint is that if you don't like it, you can wipe it
off and start over. Go for it!
Paul Lewing, Seattle
Paul Lewing on sun 18 apr 04
on 4/17/04 9:20 PM, Roger Korn at rogerk1941@EARTHLINK.NET wrote:
> There is some risk here: the plate must be really dry (keep in a 180 F.
> oven for a week),
That would be excessively cautious. Just keeping the piece in a warm dry
place for a day or so should do it.
and the overglaze lettering must not disturb the
> existing "underglaze" (use low-fire china paint or majolica - no more
> than ^06).
China paints are usually fired to about cone 016 or so, and seldom affect
the quality of the underlying glaze.
If the client is risk adverse, I'd walk away, but it should
> work, unless the existing glaze or body are extremely low-fire.
China paint will still work, even if the pot is low-fire.
Appling
> the overglaze lettering on the existing glaze, you may have crawling
> problems, so I'd add 1/4% CMC to the overglaze to minimize this risk
If you use your regular oxides and fire to cone 06 or above, you might need
to add gum, but china paint is usually used as a dry powder mixed with an
oil medium. It's pretty sticky stuff, and crawling is seldom a problem.
Paul Lewing, Seattle
Snail Scott on sun 18 apr 04
At 08:05 AM 4/17/04 -0700, you wrote:
>...has anyone tried
>re-glazing (adding words) to a used plate?
I have added glaze (lower-temp) over an already-
fired glaze. The fact that it's already been used
means, mainly, that it needs to be well-cleaned
and thoroughly dry. Some clays that look impervious
to water aren't really, and the moisture they absorb
becomes trapped under the glaze, like the moisture
trapped in a cracked headlight.
Gp ahead and add the text, but then warm it slowly
for a long time - MUCH longer than normal candling -
before firing slowly.
Overglaze enamels and china paints could also be
used, with the same caveats.
-Snail
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