Vince Pitelka on sun 25 apr 04
> Anyway, I've tried both incandescent and blue photo floods coupled with
> every one of the various options (WB & ISO) and still can't get the color
> of the digital photos of my pots right.
> What works for you? I'd really appreciate learning of what works for
> others.
Kurt -
I am not sure why this is an issue. With digital images, it is so easy to
bring them up in Photoshop (just the abbreviated "LE" version, which comes
with lots of digital cameras, and if you have to buy it it costs less than
$100), and adjust the color to exactly what you want. Email me if you have
any questions.
Good luck -
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Craft, Tennessee Technological University
Smithville TN 37166, 615/597-6801 x111
vpitelka@dtccom.net, wpitelka@tntech.edu
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka/
http://www.tntech.edu/craftcenter/
Vicki Hardin on sun 25 apr 04
Reading this post I recall someone referring to the white balance on the
digital camera and I just want to add that it is important if relying on
your white balance to have the purest possible source of light. For
instance, if you are using tungsten light, it would be important to block
out the day light coming in through the window. Your white balance is going
to be more effective if you have blocked out that light.
Vicki Hardin
http://ClayArtWebGuide.com
Kurt Wild on sun 25 apr 04
There may be something on this in the archives but I can't find it.
Anyway, I've tried both incandescent and blue photo floods coupled with
every one of the various options (WB & ISO) and still can't get the color
of the digital photos of my pots right.
What works for you? I'd really appreciate learning of what works for
others.
Thanks, Kurt
*******************************************************************
Kurt Wild
1000 E. Cascade Ave.
River Falls, WI 54022
phone: 715-425-5715
email: kurtwild@sbcglobal.net
web site: www.uwrf.edu/~W1044055
most current work: www.uwrf.edu/~W1044055/Current.html
Jennifer Boyer on sun 25 apr 04
I too am on a quest to find floods that give accurate lighting in
digital daylight( default ) mode.
I've tried Verilux full spectrum floods and they give a pink cast.
What DOES work for me are full spectrum florescent bulbs: the 4' tube
kind. I put 4 of them in a cheap shop light holder suspended above my
photoshoot table. I've used frosted mylar as well as a lastolite tent
to diffuse the light.
I'm now on the prowl for a flood that I can use along with the overhead
lights, to give a shadow out to the side. I'm looking for an online
light bulb seller that can answer some questions..
Jennifer
On Apr 25, 2004, at 9:47 AM, Kurt Wild wrote:
> There may be something on this in the archives but I can't find it.
>
> Anyway, I've tried both incandescent and blue photo floods coupled with
> every one of the various options (WB & ISO) and still can't get the
> color
> of the digital photos of my pots right.
>
> What works for you? I'd really appreciate learning of what works for
> others.
>
> Thanks, Kurt
>
> *******************************************************************
> Kurt Wild
> 1000 E. Cascade Ave.
> River Falls, WI 54022
> phone: 715-425-5715
> email: kurtwild@sbcglobal.net
> web site: www.uwrf.edu/~W1044055
> most current work: www.uwrf.edu/~W1044055/Current.html
>
> _______________________________________________________________________
> _______
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
************************
Jennifer Boyer
Thistle Hill Pottery
Montpelier, VT
http://thistlehillpottery.com
Carl Finch on sun 25 apr 04
At 08:47 AM 4/25/2004 -0500, Kurt Wild wrote:
>There may be something on this in the archives but I can't find it.
In the archives you might look the threads with these phrases in the Subject:
shooting your work
printing digital images
pix again
pix/part three
Shooting your work and the Periodical table
>Anyway, I've tried both incandescent and blue photo floods coupled with
>every one of the various options (WB & ISO) and still can't get the color
>of the digital photos of my pots right.
Are you referring to slide film or digital? And if digital, when you say
"can't get 'em right" do you mean as viewed on your monitor, or do you mean
on the print out?
ISO (I believe) should not be a factor. For best results in any situation
set it as low as it will go--higher values (greater CCD sensitivity)
produce graininess. Ditto for film cameras.
White Balance is important. If your camera has adjustable WB (as does my
lovely Minolta DiMAGE A1--now selling for $600 I'm told!) you can set the
WB by using a white card; the camera basically 'captures' the whiteness of
the card and uses that value rather than one of the fixed, built-in values.
If you're unhappy with the color on the monitor display, most all monitors
have adjustable color temperature. My ViewSonic PF790 has 3 settings,
9300K, 6500K, and 5500K (degrees Kelvin), but also has a user-adjustable
feature for finer tuning. I believe most people recommend 6500K, at least
as a starting point.
> What works for you?
Same as for everyone, Kurt. Endless futzing--what else?! :-)
--Carl
in Medford, Oregon
Where no rain is predicted for a few days, and I'm goin' out to fight the
good fight with the poison oak (ivy to you Wisconsinites) now.
Jocelyn McAuley on sun 25 apr 04
Hi Kurt,
The key to getting true color with your digital photos is in the "white
balance" control of your camera. This function calibrates your shooting
session to the light you are using at that moment.
To find this feature inyour camera's menu and set up, dig around the
folders marked light. This folder also usually lets you use pre-sets
that may be called incandescent, outdoor, etc. The white balance
feature is just like these except that its a custom tool that you set at
the beginning of each photo shoot.
If you can't find it on your camera, most cameras have their manuals online.
good luck
Jocelyn McAuley
in Eugene
william schran on sun 25 apr 04
Kurt wrote:>I've tried both incandescent and blue photo floods coupled with
every one of the various options (WB & ISO) and still can't get the color
of the digital photos of my pots right.<
I just got an "EZcube" from TableTopStudio.com which is a pop-up
white fabric light tent. With the light tent they have 5000=B0K , 50w
daylight florescent screw in bulbs, that work very well in mid-sized
reflectors. They are advertised to work very well with digital
cameras.
Haven't had a chance to test them out yet, but they do seem to put
out quite a bit of light.
Bill
William Sheppard on sun 25 apr 04
Kurt Wild,
I am using compact flouresent (corkscrew) bulbs. They are 26 Watt
(equals about 100 watts incandesence) 5,000 degree kelvin (equals daylight).
I got them for about $10.00 each at a light bulb speciallity store. SATCO
is the brand name of the bulb. Look up DAYLIGHT BULBS on Google.
I mounted them in heavy duty clamp reflectors from Home Depot that
cost $12.00 each.
They produce pure white sunlight (5,000 degree Kelvin) and produce
very little glare from shiny glazes. My color photos using digital or
daylight print film have very good color reproduction.
William A. Sheppard V.
Who would think I need light bulbs to greate "sunshine in Florida". I work
nights and sleep during the day. I shoot pictures at night at times.
www.patyoungceramicarts.com
www.greatpottery.com to see some photos using this lighting.
Kenneth J. Nowicki on sun 25 apr 04
Hi Kurt,
By chance... have you tried "strobe lighting" yet when shooting your work?
That's what I use when shooting my work with film and slides... I get very
accurate color this way.
I haven't experimented yet with a digital camera just yet. I'm pretty sure
that you'd need to sync the strobes via a hot shoe on top of your digital camera
though, so you'd have to use a digital that had that capability.
Food for thought anyway. Good luck.
- Ken
Kenneth J. Nowicki
Port Washington, NY
RakuArtist@aol.com
.................................................
In a message dated 04/25/04, kurtwild@SBCGLOBAL.NET writes:
Anyway, I've tried both incandescent and blue photo floods coupled with
every one of the various options (WB & ISO) and still can't get the color
of the digital photos of my pots right.
What works for you? I'd really appreciate learning of what works for
others.
Thanks, Kurt
Vicki Hardin on mon 26 apr 04
A quote from Moose Peterson at nikondigital.org might shed some light on
the differences of opinion and approach here.
"There is definitely two camps when it comes to how to achieve the correct
white balance in digital photography. The first camp is getting it right
right when you take the photo and the second is fixing the color balance
after the fact in the computer. As you might as well have guessed, I'm in
the first camp, I demand of myself that I get it right right from the start
(I'm still from the old school definition of what is a photographer). I don'
t have the luxury of time to mess with images in post-production"
One reason for getting it right with the camera is that your monitor and its
calibration become a factor when fixing the balance. If a monitor's
calibration is off then the color may be skewed without a person's
awareness.
There is excellent information on white balancing here
http://www.nikondigital.org/articles/white_balance.htm
Best Regards,
Vicki Hardin
http://ClayArtWebGuide.com
David wrote:
> Am I missing something here?
> Another reason I love taking digital photos is that I can forget about
> the temperature of the lights and mixing different sources of light,
> such as daylight and incandescent.
>
> I simply set up the lighting so it looks good to me. Later, when I open
> the image in Photoshop, I just click to automatically set the color
> balance, and voila, everything is color corrected.
> I do not print these images - they are for my webpage - but they
> look fine to me.
> I also regularly use the "unsharp filter" feature in Photoshop. It
> instantly sharpens any area that is slightly out of focus. So, when
> shooting, I'm not nearly as concerned about depth of field as when
> shooting with film.
>
> David Hendley
> david@farmpots.com
> http://www.farmpots.com
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
Timothy Sullivan on mon 26 apr 04
Kurt -
I use tungsten spots that I purchased from www.skaeser.com. I had really
bad luck with the tungsten bulbs and reflector shields that you get from a
Wolf Camera kind of place. I use two 500 watt focus spots with barndoors
(about $400 including the stands). For me what works best is to use
polarizing filters in front of the lights and a circular polarizing filter
on the lens to control glare. I've been very satisfied with the results.
Tim
Timothy Sullivan
Creekside Pottery
Marietta, GA
www.creeksidepottery.net
On Sun, 25 Apr 2004 08:47:22 -0500, Kurt Wild
wrote:
>There may be something on this in the archives but I can't find it.
>
>Anyway, I've tried both incandescent and blue photo floods coupled with
>every one of the various options (WB & ISO) and still can't get the color
>of the digital photos of my pots right.
>
>What works for you? I'd really appreciate learning of what works for
>others.
>
>Thanks, Kurt
>
>*******************************************************************
>Kurt Wild
>1000 E. Cascade Ave.
>River Falls, WI 54022
>phone: 715-425-5715
>email: kurtwild@sbcglobal.net
>web site: www.uwrf.edu/~W1044055
>most current work: www.uwrf.edu/~W1044055/Current.html
>
>__________________________________________________________________________
____
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Marni Turkel on mon 26 apr 04
I use tungsten lights in a blacked-out room. One variable in the
situation is the age of the bulbs. They are rated at 6 hours. I find
that by hour 3 (of actually use) the degrees Kelvin of the light has
shifted enough to affect the color balance. I shoot in Raw format and
use Photoshop to make the adjustments when opening it. To keep track
of the age of the bulbs I keep a cheap electric clock plugged into to
power strip that controls the lights and set it to 12:00 when I
replace the bulbs.
I'm still not totally satisfied, so I'm envious of those who say
what's the big deal. My next step is going to be to put a
white/grey/black card in the corner of a shot and use the curves
dialog box in Photoshop to adjust the color balance that way. Has
anyone tried that?
Marni
--
Marni Turkel
Stony Point Ceramic Design
2080 Llano Rd 1B
Santa Rosa, CA 95407
Phone 707-579-5567
Fax 707-579-1116
Web www.marniturkel.com
David Hendley on mon 26 apr 04
Am I missing something here?
Another reason I love taking digital photos is that I can forget about
the temperature of the lights and mixing different sources of light,
such as daylight and incandescent.
I simply set up the lighting so it looks good to me. Later, when I open
the image in Photoshop, I just click to automatically set the color
balance, and voila, everything is color corrected.
I do not print these images - they are for my webpage - but they
look fine to me.
I also regularly use the "unsharp filter" feature in Photoshop. It
instantly sharpens any area that is slightly out of focus. So, when
shooting, I'm not nearly as concerned about depth of field as when
shooting with film.
David Hendley
david@farmpots.com
http://www.farmpots.com
John Anthony on mon 26 apr 04
Hi all-
For me the best solution has been to shoot camera raw images and
use the camera raw
plug-in to import the files into Photoshop 7. One can adjust
temperature, exposure, sharpness,
contrast, and , the feature that I enjoy most, shadow intensity, before
starting to work in Photoshop directly. I am an old time darkroom
enthusiast, and for me this all amounts to that would have been a
complicated lighting/metering setup and a whole lot of darkroom time
reduced to a couple of minutes of pretty productive work. I have made
some really nice prints from these files with middle-line Epson 960
photo printer. The amount saved in film and processing costs (not to
mention the time spent waiting) makes the digital camera a good
investment.
I use a pretty inexpensive three light setup from Porter camera- one
above and slightly in front; one on each side, along with some plastic
light diffusing film to set up a photo tent. Once you get it right
you can pretty much drop a pot in and shoot. I go with Mel's f22/ half
a second exposure.
cheers
John A
http://www.redhillpottery.com
Fredrick Paget on tue 27 apr 04
>I use tungsten lights in a blacked-out room. One variable in the
>situation is the age of the bulbs. They are rated at 6 hours. I find
>that by hour 3 (of actually use) the degrees Kelvin of the light has
>shifted enough to affect the color balance. ............
>
>Marni
Hi Marni,
If you would switch to quartz -Iodine lamps they won't darken with
age. The iodine cycle cleans the evaporated tungsten off of the
quartz and redeposits it back onto the filament. Longer life at
constant color temperature is the result.
Fred
--
From Fred Paget, Marin County, California, USA
fredrick@well.com
william schran on tue 27 apr 04
Vince wrote:> With digital images, it is so easy to bring them up in
Photoshop.<
What Vince writes is true, if one wants to make corrections as an
additional step.
I approach photographing my ceramic works the same as I did when I
did B&W photography, get as much done in the camera and on the film
as possible, before I got into the darkroom.
Taking slides or transparencies (4X5's), I'd spend a majority of the
time getting the set-up together, then very little time taking the
photograph.
Now that I'm starting to learn to use the digital camera, I'll do
many, many tests to get to a set-up that works for my circumstances
and not have to be concerned with manipulating the image later. Of
course that doesn't mean I'll never bring the image up in Photoshop
to tweek or do a little fix, will just strive for good images without
additional work.
Bill
Jennifer Boyer on wed 28 apr 04
SO here's the latest on my ultimate photoshoot set up. I've solved
longstanding problems with the help of many Clayerters.
Lighting:
Folks have brought up the fact that you can do adjustments in
Photoshop, but I find that my business is "on the fly" so much that
it's nice to have the pix come out as accurate as possible with NO
manipulation and with the default settings in place on my digital
camera so I don't have to remember what I did.... middle age, y'know?
I see no reason anyone should be using Tungsten bulbs with digital!
These bulbs are designed to use with 35mm tungsten film only. They
AREN'T all purpose! They are hot, and change with age, and wear out
pretty fast..... basically they are a hassle. My digital has some light
matching settings that include tungsten, but I think it makes the whole
thing too complicated.....the KISS principle.
The person who suggested the daylight(full spectrum) flood flourescents
from the web site below was "spot on" as my scottish friend would say..
http://store.tabletopstudio-store.com/index.html
I just took a pic using my usual background lighting of 4 full spectrum
flourescents(the long kind, and NOT grow lights) in a shop light
hanging fixture along with one of the floods I just got from Table Top
Studio shining in from the side for a shadow. The color is very
accurate as far as I can tell. I got the 30 watt trumpet and it seems
to be a good size. You could probably use one or two of these without
any overhead diffuse lighting....I tried Verilux floods that are full
spectrum but they are way pink.
I shot the pic using a Lastolite light cube for light diffusion, but
the table top web site has a nice looking cube with an open front.
SO I've finally got the set up of my dreams. I really wanted a full
spectrum flood to create a shadow and the Table Top day light flood
seems to have the same color value as the full spectrum tube
bulbs(special order from my hardware store-they are "in") that give me
the overhead diffused lighting with accurate color using the default
setting on my digital. Now the only thing I have to do to my camera is
to turn off the flash.....that's easy to remember!
Let's hear it for solutions...finally
Jennifer
On Apr 27, 2004, at 10:51 PM, Fredrick Paget wrote:
>> I use tungsten lights in a blacked-out room. One variable in the
>> situation is the age of the bulbs. They are rated at 6 hours. I find
>> that by hour 3 (of actually use) the degrees Kelvin of the light has
>> shifted enough to affect the color balance. ............
>>
>> Marni
>
> Hi Marni,
> If you would switch to quartz -Iodine lamps they won't darken with
> age. The iodine cycle cleans the evaporated tungsten off of the
> quartz and redeposits it back onto the filament. Longer life at
> constant color temperature is the result.
> Fred
> --
> From Fred Paget, Marin County, California, USA
> fredrick@well.com
>
> _______________________________________________________________________
> _______
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
************************
Jennifer Boyer
Thistle Hill Pottery
Montpelier, VT
http://thistlehillpottery.com
Kurt Wild on wed 28 apr 04
Jennifer:
Thanks. I don't read Clayart every day but eventually I would have read
your post in the archives. It was good of you to send me a copy of your post.
At 10:46 AM 4/28/04, you wrote:
>HI,
>I sent this to Clayart. I really think you could use 2 or 3 of those
>floods from Table Top .com and forget the overheards that I use. I just
>like the overall light that they give off...
>Maybe since I do brushwork I like to have most of the pot viewable and not
>in strong shadow...This would apply to you as well I guess.
>Take Care
>Jennifer
>
>>.............Folks have brought up the fact that you can do adjustments
>>in Photoshop.........
I find that an awful bother and still I can't get the right color.
>>........ it's nice to have the pix come out as accurate as possible with
>>NO manipulation and with the default settings in place on my digital
>>camera so I don't have to remember what I did.... middle age, y'know?......
I agree - even at a young 72
>>I see no reason anyone should be using Tungsten bulbs with digital! These
>>bulbs are designed to use with 35mm tungsten film only. They AREN'T all
>>purpose! They are hot, and change with age, and wear out pretty fast.....
>>basically they are a hassle. My digital has some light matching settings
>>that include tungsten, but I think it makes the whole thing too
>>complicated.....the KISS principle.
Mine has such settings also.
>>The person who suggested the daylight(full spectrum) flood flourescents
>>from the web site below was "spot on" as my scottish friend would say..
I'm not sure what a "flood florescent" is, but I've checked into a source
in Minneapolis (Voss Electric) who is getting me 3 spiral florescent bulbs,
5100 kelvin (daylight-full spectrum). They won't be here for a week or so
and then I'll send you (and Clayart) the info on them and also report how
they work for me. I also intend to change my shop lights to " full
spectrum fluorescents (the long kind, and NOT grow lights) ". Then if I
leave my shop lights on I don't think they will interfere. Otherwise I
have been turning all my lights off other than those directed at the pots
I'm photographing.
I understand that the bulbs I will be getting are similar to the bulb shown
at http://store.tabletopstudio-store.com/26wasptop.html
Thanks for posting that company's web site (below).
>>http://store.tabletopstudio-store.com/index.html
>>
I thank everyone who has contributed to this issue,
sincerely, Kurt
*******************************************************************
Kurt Wild
1000 E. Cascade Ave.
River Falls, WI 54022
phone: 715-425-5715
email: kurtwild@sbcglobal.net
web site: www.uwrf.edu/~W1044055
most current work: www.uwrf.edu/~W1044055/Current.html
Kurt Wild on wed 28 apr 04
The following is a copy of my email to Jennifer Boyer which I thought
should be shared on Clayart.
I don't read Clayart every day but eventually I would have read your post
in the archives. It was good of you to send me a copy of your post.
At 10:46 AM 4/28/04, you wrote:
>HI,
>I sent this to Clayart. I really think you could use 2 or 3 of those
>floods from Table Top .com and forget the overheards that I use. I just
>like the overall light that they give off...
>Maybe since I do brushwork I like to have most of the pot viewable and not
>in strong shadow...This would apply to you as well I guess.
>Take Care
>Jennifer
>
>>.............Folks have brought up the fact that you can do adjustments
>>in Photoshop.........
I find that an awful bother and still I can't get the right color.
>>........ it's nice to have the pix come out as accurate as possible with
>>NO manipulation and with the default settings in place on my digital
>>camera so I don't have to remember what I did.... middle age, y'know?......
I agree - even at a young 72
>>I see no reason anyone should be using Tungsten bulbs with digital! These
>>bulbs are designed to use with 35mm tungsten film only. They AREN'T all
>>purpose! They are hot, and change with age, and wear out pretty fast.....
>>basically they are a hassle. My digital has some light matching settings
>>that include tungsten, but I think it makes the whole thing too
>>complicated.....the KISS principle.
Mine has such settings also.
>>The person who suggested the daylight(full spectrum) flood flourescents
>>from the web site below was "spot on" as my scottish friend would say..
I'm not sure what a "flood florescent" is, but I've checked into a source
in Minneapolis (Voss Electric) who is getting me 3 spiral florescent bulbs,
5100 kelvin (daylight-full spectrum). They won't be here for a week or so
and then I'll send you (and Clayart) the info on them and also report how
they work for me. I also intend to change my shop lights to " full
spectrum fluorescents (the long kind, and NOT grow lights) ". Then if I
leave my shop lights on I don't think they will interfere. Otherwise I
have been turning all my lights off other than those directed at the pots
I'm photographing.
I understand that the bulbs I will be getting are similar to the bulb shown
at http://store.tabletopstudio-store.com/26wasptop.html
Thanks for posting that company's web site (below).
>>http://store.tabletopstudio-store.com/index.html
>>
I thank everyone who has contributed to this issue,
sincerely, Kurt
*******************************************************************
Kurt Wild
1000 E. Cascade Ave.
River Falls, WI 54022
phone: 715-425-5715
email: kurtwild@sbcglobal.net
web site: www.uwrf.edu/~W1044055
most current work: www.uwrf.edu/~W1044055/Current.html
Steve Mills on thu 29 apr 04
Dear Kurt,
I use daylight;
Table not too close to the window, about 6 feet away minimum.
Heavy duty coloured cartridge paper, usually dark grey or black, in a
gentle curve so there are no *joins*.
In-fill reflector of scrunched up and straightened cooking foil glued to
cardboard, sometimes 2 of them.
I set it up with the window to the left (this is dictated by the
furniture in the room!). Reflector(s) on the right, position depends on
the pots
Sometimes if the daylight is very bright I hang white muslin or cheese-
cloth in the window to cut it down and soften it a bit.
I like what I get, and very rarely if ever *doctor* the results.
Steve
Bath
UK
In message , Kurt Wild writes
>There may be something on this in the archives but I can't find it.
>
>Anyway, I've tried both incandescent and blue photo floods coupled with
>every one of the various options (WB & ISO) and still can't get the color
>of the digital photos of my pots right.
>
>What works for you? I'd really appreciate learning of what works for
>others.
>
>Thanks, Kurt
>
>*******************************************************************
>Kurt Wild
>1000 E. Cascade Ave.
>River Falls, WI 54022
>phone: 715-425-5715
>email: kurtwild@sbcglobal.net
>web site: www.uwrf.edu/~W1044055
>most current work: www.uwrf.edu/~W1044055/Current.html
--
Steve Mills
Bath
UK
Janet Kaiser on thu 29 apr 04
Vince wrote:> With digital images, it is so easy to bring them up
in
Photoshop.<
And Bill Schran wrote:
>I approach photographing my ceramic works the same as I did when
I
>did B&W photography, get as much done in the camera and on the
film
>as possible, before I got into the darkroom. (snip) Of
>course that doesn't mean I'll never bring the image up in
Photoshop
>to tweek or do a little fix, will just strive for good images
without
>additional work.
Which is all well and good if you can afford PhotoShop or have
access to another source
Hell! Most of the working potters I know do not own a PC and
those who do are unable to do much more than send an e-mail, let
alone use any of the gizmos or fancy programmes.
And Bill. You simply forget that it is uncool to work that way
these days. "Multi-talented" means a Jack of All Trades in this
Brave New World of ephemeral art. Good grief! No one needs to
learn to set up a shot anymore! Point and shoot is all they can
possibly learn to do in the five minutes allocated to
"photography" on the timetable in the Art & Design department.
The technology is trying hard to keep apace and so now it is
possible to spend time manipulating images on a PC taken on a
camera which does everything automatically so as to achieve the
affects that grandpa** could manage manipulating the camera and
lighting finishing off with a pleasant half hour in the dark
room...
Note that the total person time (is that more politically correct
than man hours?) spent remains constant. The additional cost
naturally goes to the hi-tech companies who provide all the
"stuff" needed to achieve the results we as Modern Man feel so
bloody superior and clever about producing... HA!
** Yes. It was Grandpapa who took the photos. He was the only one
with sufficient brain to manipulate such high technology...
Sincerely
Janet Kaiser
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The Chapel of Art : Capel Celfyddyd
8 Marine Crescent : Criccieth : Wales : UK
Home of The International Potters' Path
Tel: ++44 (01766) 523570 http://www.the-coa.org.uk
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