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drilling holes in bats

updated mon 17 may 04

 

Patrice Murtha on fri 7 may 04


This has probably been discussed in the Archives but I searched and
only came up with the size of the drill bit to use. Here's my
question-- What's the easiest way to drill a bat. Is there a
template for drilling? How do I make sure my holes fit. Any help on
this would be most appreciated. I'm finally getting a studio set up
and could use any advice. Thank you in advance.

Vince Pitelka on sun 9 may 04


> What's the easiest way to drill a bat. Is there a
> template for drilling? How do I make sure my holes fit. Any help on
> this would be most appreciated. I'm finally getting a studio set up
> and could use any advice. Thank you in advance.

Patrice -
When you cut your squares, before cutting the circles, draw lines =
between
opposite corners. That will give you dead center. Measure out exactly =
five
inches from center in both directions on one of the diagonals, and mark =
the
spot with a fine line. Center-punch the spot exactly on the mark, =
exactly
on the line, drill an 1/8" hole, and use that pilot hole as a guide to =
drill
the proper bat pin hole. This is best done on a drill press with a =
stop, so
that you can control the depth of your holes. Measure the height of =
your
bat pins, and drill the hole slightly deeper.
Good luck -
- Vince

Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Craft, Tennessee Technological University
Smithville TN 37166, 615/597-6801 x111
vpitelka@dtccom.net, wpitelka@tntech.edu
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka/
http://www.tntech.edu/craftcenter/

Steve Mills on wed 12 may 04


As a matter of interest I make our bats on a Bandsaw by drilling one
hole dead centre and putting a metal rod through it which lines up with
a corresponding hole in the Bandsaw Table, the board is then rotated and
the bat is cut by the Bandsaw. For hole drilling I have a rectangular
metal plate, also with a hole dead centre, with the pin holes drilled in
it (calculated from the centre hole). The bat and metal plate (jig) are
clamped together and this is offered up to a post drill for them to be
drilled.
As we are called upon to make bats of several different sizes I have
made a fully adjustable cutting table which bolts to the Bandsaw Table
to allow us to cut bats from 8 to 24 inches in diameter. Also as there
is no standard in the UK for pin placement on Wheelheads (except on
American imports), the jig has 3 sets of holes drilled in it!!

Steve
Bath
UK



>> What's the easiest way to drill a bat. Is there a
>> template for drilling? How do I make sure my holes fit. Any help on
>> this would be most appreciated. I'm finally getting a studio set up
>> and could use any advice. Thank you in advance.

--
Steve Mills
Bath
UK

Charles Moore on wed 12 may 04


Steve Mills gave some excellent advice on drilling bat holes.

So I hesitate to offer my very low-tech method of drilling holes in bats,
but here it is. I had some bats that fit an older wheel. To cut holes to
fit my Shimpo wheel, I centered one of my new Shimpo bats (serving as a
template) with an old bat, then used two c-clamps to keep the two bats
together. I then took a drill bit the size of the new holes and, with the
new bat on top to guide me, I drilled through the old bat. It worked quite
well. In a couple of cases I had to smooth out the holes on the old bat by
running the same bit though.

I also, years ago, made my own masonite bats, which were not absolutely
round. I simply centered the old ones against my new Shimpo bats as best I
could and clamped and then proceeded as above. These also worked quite
well.

At first I was bothered if I worked over a bat that is not absolute round,
but in time I learned to focus solely on the clay.

A technically challenged Clayarter,

Charles Moore
Sacramento


----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Mills"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, May 12, 2004 2:50 AM
Subject: Re: Drilling Holes in Bats


be reached at melpots@pclink.com.

Gene Arnold on wed 12 may 04


I make all my own bat, very simple and cheap.

First I made a metal jig for the bat pin locations. Take a piece of flat
steel and drill holes to fit your pins. Flat bar is available at most any
hardware store. i.e. Lowes, Home Depot.

Get a sheet of 4x8 of masonite or any board of your choice. I prefer
masonite. Cut the board in squares a little larger than the diameter of your
wheel head. Make an x from corner to corner of the board, then lay the flat
bar with holes on the square using the x you have drawn as a guide to find
the approximate center. Drill your holes.

Wrap about 3 layers of masking tape around the out side of your wheel head.
Place the square of masonite with the holes on your wheel head. Take a
router with a flush cutting trim bit with ball bearing guide and run it
around the wheel head. Perfectly round bats every time.

The 3 layers of masking tape will give just a little overhang to make
removing the bats more easy.


Gene & Latonna
mudduck@mudduckpottery.com
www.mudduckpottery.com

Earl Brunner on sat 15 may 04


Ouch!! I had to take the router out of the back of the vehicle when the
other half was present........

Earl Brunner
Las Vegas, NV
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Earl Brunner
Sent: Saturday, May 15, 2004 2:47 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: Drilling Holes in Bats

Well, I don't really know HOW CHEAP.... The router cost me about $85.00 and
the bit for it was about $18.00...
I tried it out today; we have a student at the art center who can get
formica sink blanks from a counter top business. It's noisy, and makes a
whole BUNCH of sawdust, but the bats are great. This is probably due to the
thicker stock that the formica counter top is made from. Thinner masonite
bates would probably be a breeze, but this stuff is free and the formica
will really extend the life of the bats.

The one thing I really like about it is getting the bat pin holes drilled
FIRST. By running the router around the outside of the wheelhead, the bat
can't be accidentally off center, which sometimes happens when you drill the
holes after making the circle.

I've just really NEEDED a router.........


Earl Brunner
Las Vegas, NV

Earl Brunner on sat 15 may 04


Well, I don't really know HOW CHEAP.... The router cost me about $85.00 and
the bit for it was about $18.00...
I tried it out today; we have a student at the art center who can get
formica sink blanks from a counter top business. It's noisy, and makes a
whole BUNCH of sawdust, but the bats are great. This is probably due to the
thicker stock that the formica counter top is made from. Thinner masonite
bates would probably be a breeze, but this stuff is free and the formica
will really extend the life of the bats.

The one thing I really like about it is getting the bat pin holes drilled
FIRST. By running the router around the outside of the wheelhead, the bat
can't be accidentally off center, which sometimes happens when you drill the
holes after making the circle.

I've just really NEEDED a router.........


Earl Brunner
Las Vegas, NV

-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Gene Arnold
Sent: Wednesday, May 12, 2004 3:18 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: Drilling Holes in Bats

I make all my own bat, very simple and cheap.

First I made a metal jig for the bat pin locations. Take a piece of flat
steel and drill holes to fit your pins. Flat bar is available at most any
hardware store. i.e. Lowes, Home Depot.

Get a sheet of 4x8 of masonite or any board of your choice. I prefer
masonite. Cut the board in squares a little larger than the diameter of your
wheel head. Make an x from corner to corner of the board, then lay the flat
bar with holes on the square using the x you have drawn as a guide to find
the approximate center. Drill your holes.

Wrap about 3 layers of masking tape around the out side of your wheel head.
Place the square of masonite with the holes on your wheel head. Take a
router with a flush cutting trim bit with ball bearing guide and run it
around the wheel head. Perfectly round bats every time.

The 3 layers of masking tape will give just a little overhang to make
removing the bats more easy.


Gene & Latonna
mudduck@mudduckpottery.com
www.mudduckpottery.com

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