logan johnson on fri 14 may 04
Hi Jan!
The article is in Ceramics Monthly here's the recipes:
all weights are in grams
Nutmeg ^6 White Satin ^ 6
----------------------- ------------------------------
Dolomite 23.30 Gerstly Borate 31.63
Spodumene 23.30 Talc 13.95
Frit 3134 6.80 Kona F4 F.spar 19.80
OM4 ball clay 23.30 Kaolin 4.98
Silica 23.30 Silica 29.64
Red Iron Oxide 1.07 Zircopax 5.11
Yellow Ocher 3.24 Bentonite 1.99
Tin Oxide 4.85
Bentonite 1.94
They give one formula for the black stain but that has mangenese in it . I'll call that formula "A" I've included one I use without it formula "B"
Black Stain "A" Black Stain "B"
--------------------------- ----------------------------
Black copper oxide 24 Black Mason stain 6500 1 Tablespoon
Cobalt Oxide 2 Frit 3134 1 teaspoon
Manganese Dioxide 49 Bentonite 1 teaspoon
Nickle Oxide 5
Red Iron oxide 20 I use a set of measureing spoons & scrape the top level with a straight edge.
Hope this helps!
Logan Johnson
Jan Adams wrote:
I've lost the article that I found a few months ago. I believe it was in one of the journals, but I can't be sure. It was written by someone describing a glaze that simulates a woodfired look in oxidation. Does anybody have a copy of that article or could you tell me where to look? I've been all over the place online and can't seem to locate it now. Thanks, Jan
Just put together my new slabroller...
______________________________________________________________________________
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settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
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Logan Johnson Audeo Studios
www.audeostudios.com
"Carpe Argillam!!"
Dinah Collopy on sat 15 may 04
I just happen to run across that article yesterday. Its in the Feb. 2003 =
issue of Ceramics Monthly---A Wood-Fired Look from an Electric Kiln by =
Richard Busch.
----- Original Message -----=20
From: Jan Adams=20
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG=20
Sent: Friday, May 14, 2004 9:29 PM
Subject: Woodfire look at cone 6 oxidation
I've lost the article that I found a few months ago. I believe it was =
in one of the journals, but I can't be sure. It was written by someone =
describing a glaze that simulates a woodfired look in oxidation. Does =
anybody have a copy of that article or could you tell me where to look? =
I've been all over the place online and can't seem to locate it now. =
Thanks, Jan
Just put together my new slabroller...
=
_________________________________________________________________________=
_____
Send postings to =
clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from =
http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at =
melpots@pclink.com.
Craig Edwards on sat 15 may 04
Hello Jan: The woodfired look is something that I've been trying to
figure out over the last few years. What is the woodfired look? Any
help on this would be greatly appreciated!
Craig Edwards
New London MN
Jan Adams wrote:
>I've lost the article that I found a few months ago. I believe it was in one of the journals, but I can't be sure. It was written by someone describing a glaze that simulates a woodfired look in oxidation. Does anybody have a copy of that article or could you tell me where to look? I've been all over the place online and can't seem to locate it now. Thanks, Jan
>Just put together my new slabroller...
>
>
>
Ron Roy on sat 15 may 04
Just a few words of cauction!
Both glazes have a low expansion rate - especially the first one - best to
test em first on your clay.
Make a thin walled cylinder - 6"H by 4" wide - apply glaze only to the
inside - a little thicker than you would use it. When fired - put it in the
freezer for 24 hours - if it's still not cracked - pour boiling water in it
- in the sink in case it cracks. If it survives that you can expect your
ware to not crack in kitchen use.
The Black stain is full of Manganese - avoid the dust and kiln fumes -
manganese poisoning is dibilitating and can be deadly - and is unreverable.
Mason stain # 6500 is listed as Sage - it has Chrome and Nickel - both are
toxic.
Mason stain #6600 is listed as black - it also has Chrome and Nickel.
RR
>The article is in Ceramics Monthly here's the recipes:
>all weights are in grams
>
>Nutmeg ^6 White Satin ^ 6
>-----------------------
>------------------------------
>Dolomite 23.30 Gerstly Borate 31.63
>Spodumene 23.30 Talc 13.95
>Frit 3134 6.80 Kona F4 F.spar 19.80
>OM4 ball clay 23.30 Kaolin 4.98
>Silica 23.30 Silica
>29.64
>
>Red Iron Oxide 1.07 Zircopax 5.11
>Yellow Ocher 3.24 Bentonite 1.99
>Tin Oxide 4.85
>Bentonite 1.94
>
>They give one formula for the black stain but that has mangenese in it .
>I'll call that formula "A" I've included one I use without it formula
>"B"
>
>Black Stain "A" Black Stain "B"
>---------------------------
>----------------------------
>Black copper oxide 24 Black Mason stain 6500
>1 Tablespoon
>Cobalt Oxide 2 Frit 3134
>1 teaspoon
>Manganese Dioxide 49 Bentonite
>1 teaspoon
>Nickle Oxide 5
>Red Iron oxide 20 I use a set of
>measureing spoons & scrape
>the top level with a straight edge.
Ron Roy
RR#4
15084 Little Lake Road
Brighton, Ontario
Canada
K0K 1H0
Phone: 613-475-9544
Fax: 613-475-3513
Jan Adams on sat 15 may 04
I've lost the article that I found a few months ago. I believe it was in one of the journals, but I can't be sure. It was written by someone describing a glaze that simulates a woodfired look in oxidation. Does anybody have a copy of that article or could you tell me where to look? I've been all over the place online and can't seem to locate it now. Thanks, Jan
Just put together my new slabroller...
Elzbieta Sekula on sun 16 may 04
Is there a link to her site? I'd love to see it. Thanks, Elzbieta
In a message dated 5/15/04 8:24:43 PM Central Daylight Time,
mtnviewpottery@CHARTER.NET writes:
> Craig,
> The article I saw was an online article in CM that they've taken off the
> website. JoHanna has offered to send it to me and I'd be happy to copy it to
> you. Would also love to talk with others over the next few months as I try the
> glaze. Try a search using "cone 6 and woodfired." I did that yesterday and
> found one gal that's using it. Her stuff looks great. From what I can
> tell, it simulates a shino in oxidation. Be in touch, especially if I can send
> it to you once I have it. Jan
Fred Hagen on sun 16 may 04
Craig/Jan, would it be possible to send this info along to me as well. I'm a shino fan but at home I have only an electric L&L and would like to try this technique .
Thanks Fred Hagen
Jan Adams wrote:
Craig,
The article I saw was an online article in CM that they've taken off the website. JoHanna has offered to send it to me and I'd be happy to copy it to you. Would also love to talk with others over the next few months as I try the glaze. Try a search using "cone 6 and woodfired." I did that yesterday and found one gal that's using it. Her stuff looks great. From what I can tell, it simulates a shino in oxidation. Be in touch, especially if I can send it to you once I have it. Jan
> From: Craig Edwards
> Date: 2004/05/15 Sat PM 04:20:22 GMT
> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Subject: Re: Woodfire look at cone 6 oxidation
>
> Hello Jan: The woodfired look is something that I've been trying to
> figure out over the last few years. What is the woodfired look? Any
> help on this would be greatly appreciated!
> Craig Edwards
> New London MN
>
> Jan Adams wrote:
>
> >I've lost the article that I found a few months ago. I believe it was in one of the journals, but I can't be sure. It was written by someone describing a glaze that simulates a woodfired look in oxidation. Does anybody have a copy of that article or could you tell me where to look? I've been all over the place online and can't seem to locate it now. Thanks, Jan
> >Just put together my new slabroller...
> >
> >
> >
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
______________________________________________________________________________
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
John Baymore on sun 16 may 04
I've lost the article that I found a few months ago. I believe it was in=
one of the journals, but I can't be sure. It was written by someone
describing a glaze that simulates a woodfired look in oxidation. Does
anybody have a copy of that article or could you tell me where to look? =
At the risk of sounding a bit contrary...... =
How about the somewhat novel thought of making "CONE SIX OXIDATION LOOK"
when firing at cone 6 in an oxidizing electric kiln?
For folks who can't seem to get what they think are "good results".......=
..
I guess you have some work to do.........cause it CAN be done. One of th=
e
other faculty at the NH Institute of Art, Chris Archer, does a lot of wo=
rk
in electric kilns....... and it is WONDERFUL stuff. Not an attempt at "f=
au
woodfire".... just da@# nice pots . The forms are "there" and the glazes=
do nothing but enhance the forms. Chris has spent countless hours workin=
g
at developing his work.......... both form and surface. They don't call=
it clayWORK for nothing .
I have been woodfiring since 1969...... and it is becoming so "trendy" no=
w
that I am considering changing to cone 04/06 commercial colored glazes in=
an electric kiln .
best,
.......................john
John Baymore
River Bend Pottery
22 Riverbend Way
Wilton, NH 03086-5812 USA
JBaymore@compuserve.com
http://www.JohnBaymore.com
603-654-2752 (studio)
800-900-1110 (studio)
"Earth, Water, and Fire Noborigama Woodfiring Workshop: August 20-29,
2004"
Jan Adams on sun 16 may 04
Craig,
The article I saw was an online article in CM that they've taken off the website. JoHanna has offered to send it to me and I'd be happy to copy it to you. Would also love to talk with others over the next few months as I try the glaze. Try a search using "cone 6 and woodfired." I did that yesterday and found one gal that's using it. Her stuff looks great. From what I can tell, it simulates a shino in oxidation. Be in touch, especially if I can send it to you once I have it. Jan
> From: Craig Edwards
> Date: 2004/05/15 Sat PM 04:20:22 GMT
> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Subject: Re: Woodfire look at cone 6 oxidation
>
> Hello Jan: The woodfired look is something that I've been trying to
> figure out over the last few years. What is the woodfired look? Any
> help on this would be greatly appreciated!
> Craig Edwards
> New London MN
>
> Jan Adams wrote:
>
> >I've lost the article that I found a few months ago. I believe it was in one of the journals, but I can't be sure. It was written by someone describing a glaze that simulates a woodfired look in oxidation. Does anybody have a copy of that article or could you tell me where to look? I've been all over the place online and can't seem to locate it now. Thanks, Jan
> >Just put together my new slabroller...
> >
> >
> >
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
Jan Adams on sun 16 may 04
Thanks so much! I will take care and test as recommended. Also will only use on non-functional pieces until I'm sure. I'm really honored to have you respond to this. Clayart is a wonderful thing and those of you with so much to share are greatly appreciated. Jan
>
> From: Ron Roy
> Date: 2004/05/15 Sat PM 07:03:28 GMT
> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Subject: Re: Woodfire look at cone 6 oxidation
>
> Just a few words of cauction!
>
> Both glazes have a low expansion rate - especially the first one - best to
> test em first on your clay.
>
> Make a thin walled cylinder - 6"H by 4" wide - apply glaze only to the
> inside - a little thicker than you would use it. When fired - put it in the
> freezer for 24 hours - if it's still not cracked - pour boiling water in it
> - in the sink in case it cracks. If it survives that you can expect your
> ware to not crack in kitchen use.
>
> The Black stain is full of Manganese - avoid the dust and kiln fumes -
> manganese poisoning is dibilitating and can be deadly - and is unreverable.
>
> Mason stain # 6500 is listed as Sage - it has Chrome and Nickel - both are
> toxic.
> Mason stain #6600 is listed as black - it also has Chrome and Nickel.
>
> RR
>
>
> >The article is in Ceramics Monthly here's the recipes:
> >all weights are in grams
> >
> >Nutmeg ^6 White Satin ^ 6
> >-----------------------
> >------------------------------
> >Dolomite 23.30 Gerstly Borate 31.63
> >Spodumene 23.30 Talc 13.95
> >Frit 3134 6.80 Kona F4 F.spar 19.80
> >OM4 ball clay 23.30 Kaolin 4.98
> >Silica 23.30 Silica
> >29.64
> >
> >Red Iron Oxide 1.07 Zircopax 5.11
> >Yellow Ocher 3.24 Bentonite 1.99
> >Tin Oxide 4.85
> >Bentonite 1.94
> >
> >They give one formula for the black stain but that has mangenese in it .
> >I'll call that formula "A" I've included one I use without it formula
> >"B"
> >
> >Black Stain "A" Black Stain "B"
> >---------------------------
> >----------------------------
> >Black copper oxide 24 Black Mason stain 6500
> >1 Tablespoon
> >Cobalt Oxide 2 Frit 3134
> >1 teaspoon
> >Manganese Dioxide 49 Bentonite
> >1 teaspoon
> >Nickle Oxide 5
> >Red Iron oxide 20 I use a set of
> >measureing spoons & scrape
> >the top level with a straight edge.
>
> Ron Roy
> RR#4
> 15084 Little Lake Road
> Brighton, Ontario
> Canada
> K0K 1H0
> Phone: 613-475-9544
> Fax: 613-475-3513
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
Craig Edwards on mon 17 may 04
Hello All: In my earlier post I queried "what is the woodfired look".
Almost every pot made before the last century was woodfired. Greek
amphoras, Korean Celadons, German Salt Glaze, etc. all woodfired. It
could be said that using a gas kiln to get a tasty celadon, is
simulating a woodfired look.
Like you John, I have been woodfiring for many years (maybe to many)
and my "woodfired look" being fired in an anagama is different than your
"woodfired look" from your noborigama. We are both expressing what we
think a pot should be. What effects and how we wish to use the effects
that woodfiring gives, is to me, what it is all about. The spectrum of
effects that you can get are unlimited. I ask again, what is the
woodfired look? I would venture to guess that there are some potters
out there that woodfire to cone 6 oxidation. Hmmmmm.
Craig the bewildered
New London MN
John Baymore wrote:
>
>I've lost the article that I found a few months ago. I believe it was in
>one of the journals, but I can't be sure. It was written by someone
>describing a glaze that simulates a woodfired look in oxidation. Does
>anybody have a copy of that article or could you tell me where to look?
>
>
>
>At the risk of sounding a bit contrary......
>
>How about the somewhat novel thought of making "CONE SIX OXIDATION LOOK"
>
>
>
Jan Adams on mon 17 may 04
John,
I live in an area rich in the tradition of woodfiring. I grew up surrounded by the Catawba Valley pots created by Burlon Craig, the Reinhardt's and others. I don't presume to obtain any particular "look" in oxidation, I simply liked the article and the pictures of the pots shown. I've worked in both and have had superior teachers and mentors. I'm back to oxidation after a couple of years of not making any pots and thought that these glazes would be an interesting place to start simply because I liked the pots. I've made some oxidation pots I like, I've made reduction pots I like. Not trying to be anything other than what I am or make anything other than what I make. Just what I want to make when I want to make it. All responses to my simple request have certainly been appreciated, yours included. Pottery for me is my escape from the "contrary" I encounter daily in my other life. Thanks, Jan
>
> From: John Baymore
> Date: 2004/05/16 Sun PM 02:40:41 GMT
> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Subject: Re: Woodfire look at cone 6 oxidation
>
>
> I've lost the article that I found a few months ago. I believe it was in
> one of the journals, but I can't be sure. It was written by someone
> describing a glaze that simulates a woodfired look in oxidation. Does
> anybody have a copy of that article or could you tell me where to look?
>
>
>
> At the risk of sounding a bit contrary......
>
> How about the somewhat novel thought of making "CONE SIX OXIDATION LOOK"
> when firing at cone 6 in an oxidizing electric kiln?
>
> For folks who can't seem to get what they think are "good results".........
> I guess you have some work to do.........cause it CAN be done. One of the
> other faculty at the NH Institute of Art, Chris Archer, does a lot of work
> in electric kilns....... and it is WONDERFUL stuff. Not an attempt at "fau
> woodfire".... just da@# nice pots . The forms are "there" and the glazes
> do nothing but enhance the forms. Chris has spent countless hours working
> at developing his work.......... both form and surface. They don't call
> it clayWORK for nothing .
>
>
> I have been woodfiring since 1969...... and it is becoming so "trendy" now
> that I am considering changing to cone 04/06 commercial colored glazes in
> an electric kiln .
>
>
> best,
>
> .......................john
>
>
> John Baymore
> River Bend Pottery
> 22 Riverbend Way
> Wilton, NH 03086-5812 USA
>
> JBaymore@compuserve.com
> http://www.JohnBaymore.com
>
> 603-654-2752 (studio)
> 800-900-1110 (studio)
>
>
> "Earth, Water, and Fire Noborigama Woodfiring Workshop: August 20-29,
> 2004"
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
Craig Edwards on mon 17 may 04
As she checked the spyhole on her electric kiln, she glanced over her
shoulder and gave me that wood-fire look. If that look, were a color, it
would be red, one shade off gnarly and two shades off malice.
A novel approach.
Anyway, Lee, I like your approach to glazes in an electric kiln. I think
that for some it would be a good creative avenue. The shell idea--nice.
Is this the sort of thing that you were talking about.
http://volcano.photobucket.com/albums/v11/credwards/Pitcher/Ashpitcher.jpg
Party on,
Craig Edwards
New London MN
Lee Love wrote:
> Craig Edwards wrote:
>
>> Hello Jan: The wood-fire look is something that I've been trying to
>> figure out over the last few years. What is the woodfired look? Any
>> help on this would be greatly appreciated!
>
>
> Lookingat Jan's post, I'll stretch my imagination and see if I can fit
> some parameters. ;-)
>
> First off, Jan wants something that works in an oxidation atmosphere.
> Lotsa woodfire is in neutral to oxidation atmosphere. Mashiko work is
> and so is most of the Mino work.
>
> I am guessing that "wood fire look" includes both movement in the glaze
> and some flashing on the pot where the glaze meets the claybody. I would
> say that the use of unwashed ash would be the best approach. Here in
> Japan, they also place pots on top of shells on top of ricehulls to
> flash the bottom of the pots. Sometimes the put pots in saggers in
> electric fire, including charcoal in the sagger.
>
> If I were firing in highfire electric, I would probably fire ash glazes,
> or synthetic ash glazes over albany/alberta slip glazes for dynamic
> variation.
>
Lee Love on tue 18 may 04
Craig Edwards wrote:
> Hello Jan: The woodfired look is something that I've been trying to
> figure out over the last few years. What is the woodfired look? Any
> help on this would be greatly appreciated!
Lookingat Jan's post, I'll stretch my imagination and see if I can fit
some parameters. ;-)
First off, Jan wants something that works in an oxidation atmosphere.
Lotsa woodfire is in neutral to oxidation atmosphere. Mashiko work is
and so is most of the Mino work.
I am guessing that "wood fire look" includes both movement in the glaze
and some flashing on the pot where the glaze meets the claybody. I would
say that the use of unwashed ash would be the best approach. Here in
Japan, they also place pots on top of shells on top of ricehulls to
flash the bottom of the pots. Sometimes the put pots in saggers in
electric fire, including charcoal in the sagger.
If I were firing in highfire electric, I would probably fire ash glazes,
or synthetic ash glazes over albany/alberta slip glazes for dynamic
variation.
--
in Mashiko, Japan http://mashiko.org
http://potters.blogspot.com/ Commentary On Pottery
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