Mark Pitney on tue 8 jun 04
Hi Sherri,
You cuuld apply wax resist on the backs so you could dip the tiles with
minimal clean up or what I do alot is just hold the tile flat in my hand and pour
the glaze over it while holding it on an angle. Good luck
Cindy & Mark
The Mudpit
228 Manhattan Ave
Brooklyn, NY 11206
718-218-9424
mudpitnyc@aol.com
www.mudpitnyc.com
Linda Knapp on tue 8 jun 04
I have dipped tiles horizontally (tilt slightly as you hit the glaze
surface to let air escape.) holding the tiles by the edge. Any runover I
wipe off with a sponge.
Linda
Sherri Kellam wrote:
>Can anyone recommend a faster method of applying glaze to relief tiles? I currently paint on the glaze with a brush which takes too long. I thought about dipping them, but I don't want to have glaze on the back of the tiles as then I can't place them on the kiln shelves without propping them up with posts.
>
>This brings about another question: would I be better off investing in the posts to prop up the tiles during the glaze firing versus taking care to not get glaze on the back of the tiles? What is the norm for tiles as far as glaze on both sides or just the front? And how are the tiles normally fired?
>
>Any assistance would be GREATLY appreciated!
>
>Thank You,
>Sherri
>angel_prints@sbcglobal.net
>
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John Britt on tue 8 jun 04
Sherri,
We just did about 600 small tiles and put them on a stiff screen over a
cement trough. We then poured glaze on top of about 8 tiles at a time and
then picked them up and poured off the excess. That made the application
just about right. (adjust glaze thickness as necessary) We then used a
wet sponge or wet carpet to rub them on. (cleaned off the back). Then jsut
placed them on a kiln washed shelf.
Hope that helps,
John Britt
Jeanette Harris on tue 8 jun 04
>Can anyone recommend a faster method of applying glaze to relief
>tiles? I currently paint on the glaze with a brush which takes too
>long. I thought about dipping them, but I don't want to have glaze
>on the back of the tiles as then I can't place them on the kiln
>shelves without propping them up with posts.
Hi, Sherri,
I'd suggest you get some wax resist and paint the backs of the tiles.
You can also control how far down the sides the glaze can come, if at
all by using resist. After it has dried, you can go ahead and dip the
tiles. As far as propping up tiles in the kiln, you can lay them down
on shelves that have been kiln washed.
Also, check with your local supplier for tile racks. I have a set
that look like a box with little tabs on the insides. The tiles lie
inside the box with the edges resting on the tabs. The one I have is
designed for 6 or 8 inch tiles (can't remember right now what the
inside dimensions are). They lay horizontally. There are also tile
racks that will fire them standing on end. Might be to your interest
to check them out, since they will save you time in the long run and
you don't have to use so much wax doing the entire back side of the
tile.
Normally tiles are only glazed on the face, since the backside needs
to be affixed with Thinset or other adhesive mediums.
>This brings about another question: would I be better off investing
>in the posts to prop up the tiles during the glaze firing versus
>taking care to not get glaze on the back of the tiles? What is the
>norm for tiles as far as glaze on both sides or just the front? And
>how are the tiles normally fired?
>
>Any assistance would be GREATLY appreciated!
>
>Thank You,
>Sherri
>angel_prints@sbcglobal.net
>
--
Jeanette Harris
in Poulsbo WA
Sherri Kellam on tue 8 jun 04
Can anyone recommend a faster method of applying glaze to relief tiles? I currently paint on the glaze with a brush which takes too long. I thought about dipping them, but I don't want to have glaze on the back of the tiles as then I can't place them on the kiln shelves without propping them up with posts.
This brings about another question: would I be better off investing in the posts to prop up the tiles during the glaze firing versus taking care to not get glaze on the back of the tiles? What is the norm for tiles as far as glaze on both sides or just the front? And how are the tiles normally fired?
Any assistance would be GREATLY appreciated!
Thank You,
Sherri
angel_prints@sbcglobal.net
Susan Fox-Hirschmann on wed 9 jun 04
I fire all tile work flat on a shelf for support, and prevent any warpage
that might occur by stilting. Of course you could underfire them a cone or two
to prevent that as well.
As far as glazing techniques, you could spray,
splatter, paint, drip, dip......the list
\and the "beat goes on!"
Susan
Annandale, VA
Paul Lewing on wed 9 jun 04
on 6/8/04 4:37 PM, Sherri Kellam at angel_prints@SBCGLOBAL.NET wrote:
> Can anyone recommend a faster method of applying glaze to relief tiles? I
> currently paint on the glaze with a brush which takes too long. I thought
> about dipping them, but I don't want to have glaze on the back of the tiles as
> then I can't place them on the kiln shelves without propping them up with
> posts.
I use two methods to put a solid color onto tile. If I'm just doing a few,
I just hold them by the edges and kind of slap them onto the surface of the
glaze. Then I turn them over and rotate them till the glaze dries to avoid
runs and drips. This might not work well if there's high relief, as you may
end up with air pockets, which you will have to touch up. On some glazes,
this really shows. When you contact the surface of the glaze with the tile,
it's best to sort of rock it through the surface, rather than going down
flat. This helps with he air pockets. But if I'm doing a lot of them, I
spray them. This is the best way to get glaze evenly onto texture.
Waxing tiles is a pain in the ass, and not necessary. It also makes them
harder to hold onto. I scrape them with a knife and sponge them to get
excess off the backs. I don't worry too much about glaze on the edges.
Unless your glaze is really thick and really runny, it won't go anywhere.
Paul Lewing, Seattle
william schran on wed 9 jun 04
Sherri wrote:>Can anyone recommend a faster method of applying glaze
to relief tiles? I currently paint on the glaze with a brush which
takes too long. I thought about dipping them, but I don't want to
have glaze on the back of the tiles as then I can't place them on the
kiln shelves without propping them up with posts. This brings about
another question: would I be better off investing in the posts to
prop up the tiles during the glaze firing versus taking care to not
get glaze on the back of the tiles?<
Why not have your glaze in a shallow pan, hold the tile by the edges
with your fingers and dip the front of the tile in the glaze without
getting glaze on the back? Any marks/unglazed areas on the edges left
by where your fingers were could be touched up with a brush.
I would think you don't want glaze on the back. It would seem the
tile cement/mastik would adhere better to unglazed clay.
Bill
Al Strauss on tue 15 jun 04
Hi,
What worked for me was to cover the back of each tile with the blue 3M
masking tape that is sold for masking during painting. Used the widest. I
made the tape strips about an inch longer then the tile and that gave me
something to hold when I dipped the tiles vertically. I found that I could
peel off the tape and reuse it several times.
Al Strauss
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