pdp1@EARTHLINK.NET on thu 10 jun 04
Hi Vera,
One used to use what was called 'French Varnish' for the
application of Gold Leaf.
One may also use about any 'real' kind of old-time or
traditional 'Varnish', as say a so called 'Spar Varnish', or
an Insturment Varnish, but, one will want to thin it out a
little with Turpentine or Mineral Spirits and do a few
experiments. One may wish to add a little Jap(an) Drier as
well, if the Varnish in question seems too liesured in it's
drying. One does well to work in an area as is free from
dusts, as dust will settle from the air in a way that
surpriseingly favors one's Varnished areas.
Experiments will consist of how 'thin' to thin the Varnish
one has on hand, and, how long that consistancy ( at one's
ambient temperatures and humidity) when applied 'thinly' on
to something...how long that consistancy will want to be
drying to reach the desired far end of tackness for the Leaf
to be applied. If the Varnish is being applied to something
absorbent, matters will be more complicated.
This can not be given as an axiomatic formula, but must be
understood from experience and experiment.
The Varnish ( as has been applied 'thinly' and evenly) is
allowed to reach a certain far end of just having a little
bit of tackyness remaining, being almost 'dry' to the touch
of a clean finger's tip, or better yet, something else maybe
as can have no 'oil' on it...and the Leaf is then lifted
from one's Book, by the action of static electricity one may
induce a small Camel Hair or other Brush to have, by rubbing
something rubber in one's hair or whatever method one
likes...
The Leaf is set carefully on the Varnish and smoothed out...
After allowing it to set some while more ( how long an
'awhile' is will vary) one rubs off those parts of the Leaf
as did not have varnish under them, and hence have not
adhered...this is especially the case in doing lines or
emblems or monogrammes or letters or or pin-stripes or
what...and one may then burnish those parts of the Leaf as
have adheared where one intended them to.
Thats the deal...
Experiment and practice...
If trying to put Gold Leaf on something porous, you may find
it best to consider sealing or sizeing the item in some way
so the varnish, if needing to be in definite patterns or
fine lines, will not have to be gone over multiple times to
finally remain un-absorbed...
Good luck...!
Phil
el ve
----- Original Message -----
From: "Vera Romoda"
I need some help for applying real gold leaf (23 karat) on
ceramics. I understand that I need some sizing ( glue sort
of thing),. I tried the glue for the Dutch (composite,
fake)gold, than applied the gold leaf....Than it is still
sticky after a month Help
Vera
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