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gold leaf, enamels and lustres

updated mon 21 jun 04

 

Barbara Kobler on sat 19 jun 04


Hello again. Another inquiry here.

I've been enamoured with Greg Daly's work for years and have finally purchased some gold leaf, nitrates and am prepping some pots for exploration.

Here's my questions.
1. What exactly is pine resin and where can one buy it?
2. Which enamels do I use? The liquid ones like Georgies sells. Or do I get powder and mix it with a resin?
3. Anyone done anything in this area?


Barbara Kobler http://www.claywoman.net

Ivor and Olive Lewis on sun 20 jun 04


Dear Barbara Kobler,
Pine Resin is the same substance as Rosin, as used on violin bows but
without the refinement. You can buy Resin in lump form from artists
suppliers who carry martials for Etching.
The Enamels are On glaze Enamels. Ceramic colours which melt in the
650 to 750 C range. See Page 53-54 in "Glazes and Glazing Techniques".
Yes, I have made the Resin Lustres to Greg's instructions. My best
success was with Ferric Chloride which gave me an orange with a
metallic lustre. Take care when using Silver Nitrate. This is a very
strong oxidising agent and can cause a serious fire with hot resin as
well as give rise to noxious brown fumes of Nitrogen dioxide..
This style of work demands a strong personal Vision, an ability to
abstract images from landscapes, be they rural or urban, and translate
them into a visual celebration of light and colour using a complex
ceramic vocabulary
Enjoy the Journey.
Best regards,
Ivor Lewis.
Redhill,
S. Australia.



----- Original Message -----
From: "Barbara Kobler"
To:
Sent: Saturday, 19 June 2004 12:58
Subject: Gold leaf, Enamels and Lustres


> Hello again. Another inquiry here.
>
> I've been enamoured with Greg Daly's work for years and have finally
purchased some gold leaf, nitrates and am prepping some pots for
exploration.
>
> Here's my questions.
> 1. What exactly is pine resin and where can one buy it?
> 2. Which enamels do I use? The liquid ones like Georgies sells. Or
do I get powder and mix it with a resin?
> 3. Anyone done anything in this area?
>
>
> Barbara Kobler http://www.claywoman.net
>
>
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Paul Lewing on sun 20 jun 04


on 6/18/04 7:28 PM, Barbara Kobler at kobco@NETZERO.NET wrote:
Barbara, I'm not familiar with Greg Daly's work, nor with gold leaf and
nitrates, but I can tackle some of your questions.

> 1. What exactly is pine resin and where can one buy it?
Sounds like turpentine to me, or what china painters refer to as fat oil of
turpentine, which is just turpentine that has been left out till it's
evaporated to a thick consistency. It's been the basis for traditional
china painting and overglaze enameling for almost 500 years. However, it's
nasty smelling stuff, and many people are allergic to it. But really all
you need is something that you can mix the enamel with that's sticky and
will stay where you put it till it gets fired. Glycerin, ethylene glycol
(antifreeze), propylene glycol, corn syrup, and detergent are all
water-based substances that will work, at least in some situations. Or
there are other less noxious oils, like linseed, olive, walnut, clove,
lavender, anise, or lemon oil.

> 2. Which enamels do I use? The liquid ones like Georgies sells. Or do I get
> powder and mix it with a resin?
It depends on whether you want what ceramic supply places sell as enamel, or
what china paint places sell as enamel. I'm not familiar with what
Georgie's sells, but I assume it's a smooth, glossy material after it's
fired, probably opaque. If so, it's pretty much the same thing as china
paint, except that some people make the distinction that enamel is opaque
and china paint is translucent. Others do not make that distinction, and
use the terms interchangeably. What china painters refer to as enamel is
applied very thickly, and maintains its raised shape after firing. It is
chemically different from china paint, I suspect in having clay added to it.
I doubt this is what you mean, or want.

If I were you, I'd just get some china paints in dry powder form, and try
mixing it with different mediums, and see how it feels. This will be more
like painting with oil or watercolor paints than anything ceramic you've
ever done. In fact, you need to think of it as paint and not glaze, even
though it really is essentially a glaze. If you're a painter at heart,
you're going to love it.
Paul Lewing, Seattle