Fredrick Paget on thu 1 jul 04
I had an idea that I thought might be patentable but today I found a
reference that pretty well kills that option. It wasn't something
that I could have made money on anyway as the market is too limited
and what there is would be mostly in foreign countries where a US
patent doesn't do much good. Besides I already have 18 patents so ego
is not a problem.
Take a look at this URL:
http://h30039.www3.hp.com/scrapbooking/articles_howtos/emboss_with_inkjets.asp
OK have you got it?
Substitute decal paper and mason stains for the goop they are pushing
here and you have a simple way to make computer images on clay.
For the past couple of months I have been working on my version of
this using an inkjet spiked with 20 percent honey in the ink to make
photographs on tiles. Using Mason stains they can be any color. The
honey grabs a lot more powder than the plain wet ink and holds it
tight.
I even have visions of doing CMYK color separations in Photoshop and
assembling them on the tiles in multiple firings kind'a like we made
color prints by the extinct Kodak Wash Off Relief process back in the
1940's.
This is a process that begs for a sticky ink that won't gum up the
printer. I have a lot of fun cleaning the printer after using my
spiked cartridges. I found that the Epson printer which does not
heat the ink like all the others is the best to use so far. HP and
Lexmark squirt out the ink by heating it to the boil. Boiled sugar =
hard candy.
It is very simple - Print the image on inkjet decal paper and dust it
with Mason stain. Using a fine flat brush go over the image dusting
it off to develop it. Then flow on Bel covercoat for decals :
(http://www.beldecal.com/medium.cfm ) and hang it up to drain and
dry overnight, Next day trim the decal ( and don't get the covercoat
on the back of the decal or you waterproof a spot and it makes
trouble in using the decal). Now apply the decal to the tile that has
a lowfire glossy glaze on it already fired and fire again to cone 04.
Next day glaze the picture with a coat of clear low fire glaze and
fire again, Result a permanent photo that will last for 400 years.
This spiked ink even works well with a speedball pen or small brush.
You can draw an image on the glaze directly, dry it in the sun and
develop it with the brushed on mason stain. Then put it through the
firings and there you are.
Have fun with it. It is in the public domain now.
Fred Paget
--
From Fred Paget, Marin County, California, USA
fredrick@well.com
Barbara Kobler on fri 2 jul 04
Dear Fred, I love you for this post.
My clay partner and I are working on a series of life size outdoor torso pieces and have been wanting to do printing on clay on some of them. After studying Paul Scott's printing on clay I'd felt the only way I could approach it is with direct silk screening onto clay. Your post opens up an entirely new avenue. I got a couple questions.
Your statement "It is very simple. Print the image on inkjet decal paper and dust it with Mason stain. Using a fine flat brush go over the image dusting it off to develop it"
1. I asume you mean print the image using your honey spiked ink because it is the sticky honey that enables the stain to stick to it?
2. ALL YOU CHEMISTRY GURUS OUT THERE: Ivor, etal: How about mixing the ink with pine resin melted with lavendar oil? This is the mixture used to create a sticky base for gold leaf and lustres that will be fired and which leaves no residue.
3. By "to develop it" do you to mean to enhance the image? Or do you mean that dusting on stains will cause some kind of a photographic development process.
4. You again use the word develop in the last sentence "You can draw an image on the glaze directly, dry it in the sun and develop it with the brushed on mason stain." Please be so kind as to clarify for me.
Also please don't be offended by what some people think is me being too precise. It's only that because we are talking about a very technical subject headlined under the broad umbrella of "photographic" I just want to be sure I am understanding what you are meaning.
5. What about a Lexmark printer? Does it boil the ink? I got one I hate. I don't mind if it gets killed.
Barbara Kobler http://www.claywoman.net
Fredrick Paget on fri 2 jul 04
Barbara Kobler writes:
> I got a couple questions.
>
>Your statement "It is very simple. Print the image on inkjet decal
>paper and dust it with Mason stain. Using a fine flat brush go over
>the image dusting it off to develop it"
>
>1. I asume you mean print the image using your honey spiked ink
>because it is the sticky honey that enables the stain to stick to it?
Well, it will stick to wet ink too but not as well as on honey. When
you brush it then it smears or comes off. I called the brushing
process "developing" because that is what it reminds me of, having
had extensive photographic darkroom experience in my youth. Try it
with a little honey in water using a pen or brush as I described and
you will see at once how it works.You need to brush it to clear out
the highlights and get excess stain back in the bottle.
>
>2. How about mixing the ink with pine resin melted with lavendar oil?
All the inks used in the ink jet printers I have seen are water base,
except the Xerox and Alps were wax based or plastic sticks of a type
that was melted before discharge onto the paper. The water base helps
to give the low viscosity needed. I saw one patent that described an
alcohol base ink. Most of the inks have about 50 percent water in
them and the other ingredients are selected from a several yards long
list of other water soluble, mostly liquid chemicals that control
drying speed , penetration, stability, etc. The patent literature is
very educational if you can understand the terminology. The patent
office requires full disclosure in a patent - no secrets. The trick
is give too much information and don't say which ones of the many
choices presented are the best. That is a trade secret.
I suppose you could invent a printer that used pine resin, etc., but
it would be a whole new effort.
>
>3. By "to develop it" do you to mean to enhance the image? Or do you
>mean that dusting on stains will cause some kind of a photographic
>development process.
>4. You again use the word develop in the last sentence "You can
>draw an image on the glaze directly, dry it in the sun and develop
>it with the brushed on mason stain." Please be so kind as to
>clarify for me.
As I say above, try it and all will be clear.
Fred
Freezing in our chilly foggy summer weather only a couple of miles
inland from the cold Pacific Ocean.
--
From Fred Paget, Marin County, California, USA
fredrick@well.com
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