MudFire - Luba & Erik on sat 3 jul 04
I have big steel rolling trolley (the kind they use at Sams club when you're
buying 500 rolls of toilet paper) and it happens to be just the perfect base
for a portable raku kiln. I've got a fiber top that lifts up and it's
sitting a base of soft brick with a two-brick high wall. Underneath all
that I had a "foundation" of 8" cinderblocks but find that the kiln is a
couple inches too tall to be comfortable. The cinderblock was there to
presumably protect the steel base from the heat, but I wonder... is it
really necessary? There's a full layer of 2000 degree rated soft brick
between the fire and steel base there. Should I put in another layer of
soft (or hard) brick? Or maybe I could use a smaller (flatter) cinderblock
without the ventilation holes in it? Or will that blow up? Does anyone have
any experience with this?
BTW - these Sam's club/Costco trolley are really really great (for kilns or
moving clay around your studio). I got a bunch of them for free just for
asking the store manager. They occasionally replace all their carts because
HQ tells them to and mostly the carts are in great condition.... if nothing
else, the casters alone are worth the hassle of hauling them away.
Happy 4th everyone!!! And thanks for any thoughs you can send my way.
Luba
MudFire Pottery Center www.mudfire.com
Open Studio * Gallery * Workshops
Gary Navarre on sun 4 jul 04
> Luba inquires
for a portable raku kiln. I've got a fiber top that lifts up and it's
> sitting a base of soft brick with a two-brick high wall. Underneath all
> that I had a "foundation" of 8" cinderblocks but find that the kiln is a
> couple inches too tall to be comfortable. The cinderblock was there to
> presumably protect the steel base from the heat, but I wonder... is it
> really necessary? There's a full layer of 2000 degree rated soft brick
> between the fire and steel base there. Should I put in another layer of
> soft (or hard) brick? Or maybe I could use a smaller (flatter)
> cinderblock
> without the ventilation holes in it? Or will that blow up? Does anyone
> have
> any experience with this?
> Luba
> MudFire Pottery Center www.mudfire.com
> Open Studio * Gallery * Workshops
Hay Luba,
You really don't need the block if it's in your way. You probably
don't need more brick under the floor either as long as it's 4" thick.
A thin piece of ceramic fiber board would increase insulation without
increase hight.
Neat idea for a portable, don't know if I'll need one but I'll keep it
in mind, thanks.
Gary Navarre
Navarre Pottery
Norway, Michigan
Fredrick Paget on sun 4 jul 04
>I have big steel rolling trolley (the kind they use at Sams club when you're
>buying 500 rolls of toilet paper) and it happens to be just the perfect base
>for a portable raku kiln. I've got a fiber top that lifts up and it's
>sitting a base of soft brick with a two-brick high wall. Underneath all
>that I had a "foundation" of 8" cinderblocks but find that the kiln is a
>couple inches too tall to be comfortable. The cinderblock was there to
>presumably protect the steel base from the heat, but I wonder... is it
>really necessary? There's a full layer of 2000 degree rated soft brick
>between the fire and steel base there. Should I put in another layer of
>soft (or hard) brick? Or maybe I could use a smaller (flatter) cinderblock
>without the ventilation holes in it? Or will that blow up? Does anyone have
>any experience with this?
>Luba
>MudFire Pottery Center http://www.mudfire.com
I see no other response to this so here is my 2 bits worth of advice.
If you consider the average electric kiln they are made of one layer
of soft brick with a stainless steel wrapping and they work
admirably. My Bailey ConeArt even has a plain steel sheet metal
bottom under the soft brick floor that is then supported by the iron
stand. So it appears that one layer of soft brick is enough if there
is good ventilation under the supporting steel. The ventilation is
essential as if it is not allowed to be carried off by the air, heat
will build up even with insulation. It just takes longer and
eventually if it did not escape the temperature on the outside of the
brick would be as hot as on the inside.
You don't say what the cart is like. Expanded metal or solid sheet,
either should be ok. As long as there is good venting under it.
Fred Paget
--
From Fred Paget, Marin County, California, USA
fredrick@well.com
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