pdp1@EARTHLINK.NET on fri 23 jul 04
Hi Ivor, Ben...
Yes..I have wondered about this too, as for my intentions of
useing various 'waste oils' for heating, as well as for
firing a Kiln...
In the Winter, one should not want to have a nice big tank
full of off-white 'solid' stuff...
My own intentions forsee allways mixing a reliably similar
quantity of disused Lubricating Oils with disused Cooking
Oils, and adding a good slug of Diesel or Kerosene or
Mineral spirits or the like just for good measure...
That way, it would be 'thinner', and...never freeze into
solid...
Phil
el ve
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ben Shelton"
> On Fri, 23 Jul 2004 13:29:34 +0930, Ivor and Olive Lewis
> wrote:
>
> >Dear Ben Shelton,
> >How this waste oil from any source is used depends on the
burner
> >system you choose to employ. This choice may be governed
by the
> >temperature at which the oil sets solid.
> >If you can give more information about your intentions
and the state
> >of the oil you may get better information.
> >Best regards,
> >Ivor Lewis.
> >Redhill,
> >S. Australia.
Ivor and Olive Lewis on sun 25 jul 04
Dear Phil,
Dilution with a virgin light oil seems to be the way to go.
Discarded Lube oil from IC engines is a health hazard. Check the
literature.
The Lithium soap content makes for a wonderful unanticipated glaze on
bag wall kiln bricks.
Best regards,
Ivor Lewis.
Redhill,
S. Australia.
Ben on tue 27 jul 04
Hi Phil,
The thing with the water in the fryer grease is that it's chemically =
combined, like clay. Settling won't remove it. But its still a valid =
fuel. The guys at greasel used to sell a twelve volt pump with a simple =
paper filter like a coffee filter. Drive up to the restaurant (with =
permission of course) pump and filter directly into the tank in the back =
of your truck, done, finished, fire it up. These guys burn sraight =
grease in standard commercial deisel engines, no problem. Of course you =
do have the advantage in the motor of high compression to assist the =
combustion but I think the oil gun would do it. (you might have to =
fiddle with pressures and orifice size. Did you ever try to burn olive =
oil in an oil lamp? A little bigger wick diameter, a little fluffier =
wick, no problem. probably use the same wick as lamp oil if you could =
preheat it so it would flow.) Which leads to the next point. The other =
thing they do on trucks which I think is important is they take a tap =
off the radiator and run a line around the grease tank as a preheat. =
Very practical on a truck- 50 ways to do it for kiln or home.
It might still be worth letting it settle. Whatever might have gotten =
mixed in, in use, besides solids. Put your tap a few inches up clean out =
the sludge once in a long while. ( When we make St Jonswort infused =
olive oil there's always a portion of the physical water from the plants =
that gets finely dispersed (suspended) in the oil. Takes a couple weeks =
to settle out then we decant it.) Anyway- food for thought.
Also there was a very good article way back from Studio Pottery =
Magazine (I don't know what issue,I have the book from '78) titled =
Adapting Fuel Oil Burners to Ceramic Kilns by Joseph Mannino and Marcia =
Selsor. It's got some good detail. I serviced oil guns a few times in =
Vermont working for einsteins plumber years ago. I would definitely =
play with it if they were common in my region.
Back to work,
Ben
pdp1@EARTHLINK.NET on tue 27 jul 04
Hi Ben,
Thanks...good mentions there.
Likely I would heat the holding Tank with hot Water from an
ancilary or attatchment of the furnace...that is, have
insulated pipes as do a simple thermo-syphon to keep the
supply Tank warm, or even make a jacketed Tank..or an
jacketed and insulated Tank.
I will have many experiments to do certainly...!
And filtering, yes...I would not want any of those crispy
little nubsters of French-Fries clogging my Oriface...
One time years ago, a clutch pedal was squeaking something
aweful against the metal sides of the opening it passed
through on the toe-board of a Truck I was driving, the
bushings were pretty worn for the pedal's
pivoting...and...there were some old French Fries (was a
borrowed Truck) kind of loose among the general junk on the
floor, so I grabbed one and rubbed it firmly on the side of
the Clutch Pedal's lower arm...and...smoothe as silk from
then on...stayed that way for many weeks too.
Anyway...my thought has also been to burn a reasonably
consistant blend of old Cooking Oils mixed with disused
Crank Case Oils, and to add maybe 10 percent Mineral Spirits
or Kerosene or Diesel or whatever I can get cheap to thin it
out a little with...
Whatever 'Water' as might be bound up, would likely not
matter much I do not think, but I will certainly experiment
on methods of settleing the soup, seeing what 'layers' I may
get, and what their properties may be. Or of adding
ingredients as may precipitate suspended matter, or Water...
I would likely experiment with small batches in large Glass
Carboys or the like so I can see what goes on.
And as Ivor has been kind to remind, I should take an
interest in the 'doixins' and 'P.C.B.s' as one must expect
to
be there in the old Crank Case Oils...so I am interested in
learning how to seperate them by some easy method or other
so they should not just go up the spout with the other
combustion by-products...although so far as that goes, the
Burners I have in mind get big old smoochy kisses on the
forehead from the 'E.P.A.' ...and with no mention from them
about anything they didn't like going up-the-spout from
burning disused Oils...so...I dunno...I am interested...!
Phil
el ve
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ben"
Hi Phil,
The thing with the water in the fryer grease is that it's
chemically combined, like clay. Settling won't remove it.
But its still a valid fuel. The guys at greasel used to
sell a twelve volt pump with a simple paper filter like a
coffee filter. Drive up to the restaurant (with permission
of course) pump and filter directly into the tank in the
back of your truck, done, finished, fire it up. These guys
burn sraight grease in standard commercial deisel engines,
no problem. Of course you do have the advantage in the motor
of high compression to assist the combustion but I think the
oil gun would do it. (you might have to fiddle with
pressures and orifice size. Did you ever try to burn olive
oil in an oil lamp? A little bigger wick diameter, a little
fluffier wick, no problem. probably use the same wick as
lamp oil if you could preheat it so it would flow.) Which
leads to the next point. The other thing they do on trucks
which I think is important is they take a tap off the
radiator and run a line around the grease tank as a preheat.
Very practical on a truck- 50 ways to do it for kiln or
home.
It might still be worth letting it settle. Whatever might
have gotten mixed in, in use, besides solids. Put your tap a
few inches up clean out the sludge once in a long while. (
When we make St Jonswort infused olive oil there's always a
portion of the physical water from the plants that gets
finely dispersed (suspended) in the oil. Takes a couple
weeks to settle out then we decant it.) Anyway- food for
thought.
Also there was a very good article way back from Studio
Pottery Magazine (I don't know what issue,I have the book
from '78) titled Adapting Fuel Oil Burners to Ceramic Kilns
by Joseph Mannino and Marcia Selsor. It's got some good
detail. I serviced oil guns a few times in Vermont working
for einsteins plumber years ago. I would definitely play
with it if they were common in my region.
Back to work,
Ben
____________________________________________________________
__________________
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your
subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
| |
|
