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drying for bisque/layers

updated wed 25 aug 04

 

mel jacobson on mon 23 aug 04


i never fire a kiln that i do not load the
top with greenware, ready to bisque.

it is the best use of that left over heat that
rises off a kiln.

when those pots are loaded in the next day
they are DRY DRY DRY.

i still bisque fire them slowly.
never have cracks, blow ups. i bisque to 08.
since a do a great deal of layering*, and always have,
i need a bisque that is a bit softer.

most folks are very nervous about loading the top
of an electric kiln. well mine is 35 years old and still
going strong. not a crack in the lid.
start your load over the edges with heavy stuff.
put them rim to rim. base to base..whatever.
make a tower to the center.
light things in the middle.
mugs etc.

* the secret of layering glazes is compatibility.
i use the same glaze formula...rhodes 32 with
3-4 different colorants added. always add a bit
of bentonite to keep the glaze smooth for applying and drying.

potters have to research for a long time to find glazes that
will sit one on top of the other. my newest is iron
red (kaki,(persimmon))base
with robs green....keep the robs thin...not thick.
learn to count the seconds in the glaze bucket.
with layers....2 seconds per coat....final time in the
bucket not exceed 8 seconds. give or take a few seconds
depending on thickness of glazes.
i look for light cream.
mel
cool summer. 38F one night in august. heavy frost in northern
minnesota. flowers and tomatoes are gone/
`more proof of global warming`
From:
Minnetonka, Minnesota, U.S.A.
web site: my.pclink.com/~melpots
or try: http://www.pclink.com/melpots
new/ http://www.rid-a-tick.com

Mark Strayer on tue 24 aug 04


Very Intersting...do you find the need to preheat your bisque fire when
you stack greenware on top? I've been having problems with trapped moist=
ure
in my bisque and this idea sounds good...thoughts for anyone else?

>-- Original Message --
>Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2004 18:42:01 -0500
>Reply-To: Clayart
>From: mel jacobson
>Subject: drying for bisque/layers
>To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>
>
>i never fire a kiln that i do not load the
>top with greenware, ready to bisque.
>
>it is the best use of that left over heat that
>rises off a kiln.
>
>when those pots are loaded in the next day
>they are DRY DRY DRY.
>
>i still bisque fire them slowly.
>never have cracks, blow ups. i bisque to 08.
>since a do a great deal of layering*, and always have,
>i need a bisque that is a bit softer.
>
>most folks are very nervous about loading the top
>of an electric kiln. well mine is 35 years old and still
>going strong. not a crack in the lid.
>start your load over the edges with heavy stuff.
>put them rim to rim. base to base..whatever.
>make a tower to the center.
>light things in the middle.
>mugs etc.
>
>* the secret of layering glazes is compatibility.
>i use the same glaze formula...rhodes 32 with
>3-4 different colorants added. always add a bit
>of bentonite to keep the glaze smooth for applying and drying.
>
>potters have to research for a long time to find glazes that
>will sit one on top of the other. my newest is iron
>red (kaki,(persimmon))base
>with robs green....keep the robs thin...not thick.
>learn to count the seconds in the glaze bucket.
>with layers....2 seconds per coat....final time in the
>bucket not exceed 8 seconds. give or take a few seconds
>depending on thickness of glazes.
>i look for light cream.
>mel
>cool summer. 38F one night in august. heavy frost in northern
>minnesota. flowers and tomatoes are gone/
>`more proof of global warming`
>From:
>Minnetonka, Minnesota, U.S.A.
>web site: my.pclink.com/~melpots
>or try: http://www.pclink.com/melpots
>new/ http://www.rid-a-tick.com
>
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nk.com.