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soldner wheels- how slow can you go

updated thu 2 sep 04

 

michael @of the Earth Pottery on tue 31 aug 04


Hi Sylvia,


   I personally have a soldner P200, unbelievable wheel, I love it soo much, I cannot believe how slow this sucker goes w/ absolutely no surging what so ever, In my honest open opinion, unlike any other wheel out there.  I brought it down to 1 revolution every 15 seconds, absolutely perfect.  Very expensive wheel, but if ou are even semi-productive, way worth it.  Hope this helped.



Of the Earth Pottery & Supply
313 Buchner Court
Waukesha, WI 53186
Toll-Free 1.866.510.0090
www.potterydeals.com

>From: Mark & Sylvia Mondloch <HotArt@SILVERCREEKPOTTERY.COM> >Reply-To: Clayart <CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG> >To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG >Subject: Soldner wheels- how slow can you go >Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 09:58:15 -0500 > >I do quite a few pieces 16 -20 inches wide and like to alter the rim while still on the wheel so I need to be able to go very slow and smooth. I replaced my ancient Shimpo with a new Bailey this past year. Bailey's talked us through adjusting it slower in the electronics. Now by tapping the pedal I can get it as slow as I need but then it surges and throws my rhythm off. > >Although I think it's a great wheel and Bailey's service is superb, I'd still like to see if there is anything out there that will work better for me.
I had an opportunity to try a new Shimpo and that wasn't any better for me and I know I don't care for the Brent wheels. I've been told that the Soldner may be the only one that can do what I want. &g
t; >Is there anyone with a Soldner that would do me a favor and check how slow you can go without any surging? Also I'd like to know if you are able to keep your foot on the pedal at that slow speed or if the pedal is too touchy when that slow. I need to be able to slow it down to at least 4.5 revolutions per minute with no surging- about 4 revolutions would be even better. > >I have a kick wheel that I use for trimming but am making fairly large pieces and need to throw with an electric for physical reasons. I know I'm being fussy but thought the Soldner may be worth a shot. > >Anyone in east central Wisconsin area who wouldn't mind letting me try your Soldner? > >Thanks for any input! >Sylvia Mondloch > > >--- >Mark & Sylvia Mondloch >Silver Creek Pottery & Forge >W6725 Hwy 144 >Random Lake ,Wi 53075 >HotArt@silvercreekpottery.com >http://www.silvercreekpottery.com > >__________________________________________________
____________________________ >Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org > >You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription >settings from http://www.ceramics.org/claya
rt/ > >Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.

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Fredrick Paget on tue 31 aug 04


>I do quite a few pieces 16 -20 inches wide and like to alter the rim =
>while still on the wheel so I need to be able to go very slow and =
>smooth. I replaced my ancient Shimpo with a new Bailey this past year. =
>Bailey's talked us through adjusting it slower in the electronics. Now =
>by tapping the pedal I can get it as slow as I need but then it surges =
>and throws my rhythm off.
>
>Thanks for any input!
>Sylvia Mondloch


Sylvia,

If you really want to go slow you can rig up an external DC supply
to run the motor on the wheel you have. If you give the DC motor a
low voltage pure DC it will run nice and slow. The Soldner controller
does that by using a variable autotransformer to feed a rectifier
and filter to give fairly pure DC.

Get a car battery and try connecting that to just the motor. If it is
a 12 volt battery, it has 6 cells so you can experiment with any of
the voltages from 2 to 12 volts to see what it needs. You need a
battery that has exposed links between cells so you can use a clamp
to grab the link.

Then buy or build a DC supply that puts out that voltage at a current
that the motor needs. That will give you one slow speed.

If you want to be real deluxe you could buy a variable voltage DC lab
supply for a couple of hundred bucks. Second hand ones are for sale
on the internet.
Fred
--
From Fred Paget, Marin County, California, USA
fredrick@well.com

Mark & Sylvia Mondloch on tue 31 aug 04


I do quite a few pieces 16 -20 inches wide and like to alter the rim =
while still on the wheel so I need to be able to go very slow and =
smooth. I replaced my ancient Shimpo with a new Bailey this past year. =
Bailey's talked us through adjusting it slower in the electronics. Now =
by tapping the pedal I can get it as slow as I need but then it surges =
and throws my rhythm off.

Although I think it's a great wheel and Bailey's service is superb, I'd =
still like to see if there is anything out there that will work better =
for me. I had an opportunity to try a new Shimpo and that wasn't any =
better for me and I know I don't care for the Brent wheels. I've been =
told that the Soldner may be the only one that can do what I want.=20

Is there anyone with a Soldner that would do me a favor and check how =
slow you can go without any surging? Also I'd like to know if you are =
able to keep your foot on the pedal at that slow speed or if the pedal =
is too touchy when that slow. I need to be able to slow it down to at =
least 4.5 revolutions per minute with no surging- about 4 revolutions =
would be even better. =20

I have a kick wheel that I use for trimming but am making fairly large =
pieces and need to throw with an electric for physical reasons. I know =
I'm being fussy but thought the Soldner may be worth a shot.=20

Anyone in east central Wisconsin area who wouldn't mind letting me try =
your Soldner?

Thanks for any input!
Sylvia Mondloch

=20
---
Mark & Sylvia Mondloch
Silver Creek Pottery & Forge
W6725 Hwy 144
Random Lake ,Wi 53075
HotArt@silvercreekpottery.com
http://www.silvercreekpottery.com

Anne Webb on wed 1 sep 04


hey mark...
a soldner wheel will definitely meet your needs. quiet, strong, smooth, and
good torque. doesnt surge at all, regardless of the speed. some say the
secret is in the pedal.
older models were built by paul soldner and the newer ones by bluebird. if
you happen across an old one, snap it up for sure.
anne


>From: Mark & Sylvia Mondloch Reply-To:
>Clayart To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG Subject:
>Soldner wheels- how slow can you go Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 09:58:15 -0500 >
>I do quite a few pieces 16 -20 inches wide and like to alter the rim while
>still on the wheel so I need to be able to go very slow and smooth. I
>replaced my ancient Shimpo with a new Bailey this past year. Bailey's
>talked us through adjusting it slower in the electronics. Now by tapping
>the pedal I can get it as slow as I need but then it surges and throws my
>rhythm off. > >Although I think it's a great wheel and Bailey's service is
>superb, I'd still like to see if there is anything out there that will work
>better for me. I had an opportunity to try a new Shimpo and that wasn't any
>better for me and I know I don't care for the Brent wheels. I've been told
>that the Soldner may be the only one that can do what I want. &g t; >Is
>there anyone with a Soldner that would do me a favor and check how slow you
>can go without any surging? Also I'd like to know if you are able to keep
>your foot on the pedal at that slow speed or if the pedal is too touchy
>when that slow. I need to be able to slow it down to at least 4.5
>revolutions per minute with no surging- about 4 revolutions would be even
>better. > >I have a kick wheel that I use for trimming but am making fairly
>large pieces and need to throw with an electric for physical reasons. I
>know I'm being fussy but thought the Soldner may be worth a shot. > >Anyone
>in east central Wisconsin area who wouldn't mind letting me try your
>Soldner? > >Thanks for any input! >Sylvia Mondloch > > >--- >Mark & Sylvia
>Mondloch >Silver Creek Pottery & Forge >W6725 Hwy 144 >Random Lake ,Wi
>53075 >HotArt@silvercreekpottery.com

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Michael Wendt on wed 1 sep 04


We're back from Hawai'i :-)
Mark,
All commutator equipped D C motors lurch at low speed.
The term used is "cogging" and it occurs because of the switching by the
commutator from one winding to the next. Two additional ways to improve the
problem are:
1) Change the speed reduction from 10:1 to 12.5:1 or even 15:1. This allows
for more torque and smoother slow speed turning at the price of a slower top
speed.
2) Install a large, heavy rimmed pulley on the motor shaft in addition to
the small drive pulley to act as a flywheel. Cogging will become fairly well
damped even at low rpm if you do this.
The variable transformer route works well as long as the transformer is high
enough amperage to cover near stall conditions. As the motor turns slower,
it acts more like a short circuit that can burn out low amperage
transformers.
Regards,
Michael Wendt
Wendt Pottery
2729 Clearwater Ave
Lewiston, Idaho 83501
USA
wendtpot@lewiston.com
www.wendtpottery.com