Vera Romoda on tue 14 sep 04
Hi list...
After some serious nagging ; my husband wrapped the outside of a small
gas barbecue in fierblanket secured it wit chicken wire and reattached
the propane tank ; because I would like not to use my small test kiln =
for
raku bead firing , but the old barbecue. My problem is that it shuts =
itself of at about 560 or 600 F.=20
Any idea why , and what to do?
Thanks
Vera
Lori Leary on wed 15 sep 04
Hi Vera,
Here's a possibility for you...If you can get a metal five gallon can,
cut an exit flue in the top, line it with your fiber (on the inside) and
secure it with sodium silicate or clay buttons and nichrome wire, you
can make a nifty little raku kiln. Make a base out of firebrick, and
you can use a weed burner to fire it (a burner with a regulator is
always best, though...). I used to fire beads in one like this using
brads stuck into firebrick to hold the beads. I was able to do lots of
beads very quickly this way. This small kiln is not my idea, it came
from our mel. By the way, this is a quick and dirty explanation of
making a small kiln, if you want more details, let me know....
I would also recommend Steven Branfman's "Raku: A Practical Approach" as
a reference.
Hope this opens up some avenues for you,
Lori L.
Vera Romoda wrote:
> Hi list...
> After some serious nagging ; my husband wrapped the outside of a small
> gas barbecue in fierblanket secured it wit chicken wire and reattached
> the propane tank ; because I would like not to use my small test kiln for
> raku bead firing , but the old barbecue. My problem is that it shuts
> itself of at about 560 or 600 F. Any idea why , and what to do?
> Thanks
> Vera
>
>
>
>
Craig Clark on wed 15 sep 04
Vera, it would be a good idea to do a little more "encouraging" and
get your husband to take the fiber blanket off of the outside of the pit
and line the inside of the pit or just go ahead and do it yourself. Just
be sure to wear long pants, a long sleeve shirt, protective gloves
(nomex work great and they are cheap) and a resperator if you have
already partially fired in the blanket. If you do not do this the
insulation will cause the metal to overheat, it will degrade very
quickly and the kiln will most probably fail.
I don't know if there is any type of thermal sensor on the pit that
is meant to turn the fire system off once a certain temperature is
reached but that would be the first thing that I would check. What type
of burner(s) are you using and how are they configured. This is
information that is important to help you with your problem.
Hope this helps
Craig Dunn Clark
619 East 11 1/2 st
Houston, Texas 77008
(713)861-2083
mudman@hal-pc.org
>
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>
>
>
Tony Ferguson on wed 15 sep 04
Vera,
More than likely your barbecue has a safety temp setting that automatically
shuts itself off. I would look into removing it.
Tony Ferguson
----- Original Message -----
From: "Vera Romoda"
To:
Sent: Tuesday, September 14, 2004 9:04 PM
Subject: barbecue to raku
Hi list...
After some serious nagging ; my husband wrapped the outside of a small
gas barbecue in fierblanket secured it wit chicken wire and reattached
the propane tank ; because I would like not to use my small test kiln for
raku bead firing , but the old barbecue. My problem is that it shuts itself
of at about 560 or 600 F.
Any idea why , and what to do?
Thanks
Vera
____________________________________________________________________________
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Steve Slatin on wed 15 sep 04
Vera --
Let's remember that a barbeque is not designed with
ceramics temperatures in mind. Many parts may be
used that are safe only with temps below what you'll
get with an insulating blanket around the grill.
Possible problems could include burners that could
bend/break/crack/delaminate with higher than
design-spec temperatures, parts made with materials
that will suffer unexpected deterioration at higher
temps, etc.
Handles are often made of different metals (or, worse,
woods or plastics) not safe if the body of the
barbeque reaches ceramic temps. Some metal alloys may
become brittle at ceramic temps, too. And anything
painted on, even a high-temp paint, isn't going to
survive a raku firing so there're possibly some
hazardous fumes risks you may not have planned for.
Also, your grill may "stall" because the metal
in the burners is so hot it's choking the gas outlet
ports. (If this is the case, you may also increasing
your risk of a flash back fire, depending on where
in your grill the gas and air are mixed.)
In any event the burner design is probably not going
to be efficient at getting you the temperatures you
want. It might be safer (and cheaper, counting fuel
costs), to pull everything except the steel and cast
iron parts off of your barbeque, and get a better-
designed ceramic-use type burner to use. Some
designs exist for using inexpensive simple burners
with ignition taking place outside a kiln, and the
flame shooting inside. Depending on the grill, that
might work well, and those burners are cheap.
I hope it doesn't sound like I'm trying to rain on
the parade here. You may be on the verge of finding
a whole new approach to affordable raku firing,
which would be a boon to us all. I'd just hate
to hear anyone on this list got hurt.
-- Steve Slatin
=====
Steve Slatin -- Entry-level potter, journeyman loafer, master obfuscator
Sequim, Washington, USA
48.0937°N, 123.1465°W or thereabouts
__________________________________________________
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Lori Leary on wed 15 sep 04
Hi Vera,
Here's a possibility for you...If you can get a metal five gallon can,
cut an exit flue in the top, line it with your fiber (on the inside) and
secure it with sodium silicate or clay buttons and nichrome wire, you
can make a nifty little raku kiln. Make a base out of firebrick, and
you can use a weed burner to fire it (a burner with a regulator is
always best, though...). I used to fire beads in one like this using
brads stuck into firebrick to hold the beads. I was able to do lots of
beads very quickly this way.
This small kiln is not my idea, it came from our mel.
By the way, this is a quick and dirty explanation of making a small
kiln, if you want more details,
let me know....
I would also recommend Steven Branfman's "Raku: A Practical Approach" as
a reference.
Hope this opens up some avenues for you,
Lori L.
Vera Romoda wrote:
>Hi list...
> After some serious nagging ; my husband wrapped the outside of a small
> gas barbecue in fierblanket secured it wit chicken wire and reattached
> the propane tank ; because I would like not to use my small test kiln for
>raku bead firing , but the old barbecue. My problem is that it shuts itself of at about 560 or 600 F.
>Any idea why , and what to do?
>Thanks
> Vera
>
>
>
>
pdp1@EARTHLINK.NET on wed 15 sep 04
Hi Steve, Vera...
I was thinking the same thing...plus, on most bar-b-ques
now-a-days, the Propane Bottle is located right underneath
on the cart or stand...maybe not so good if trying to see
just how 'hot' one may get it...
I would also recommend one just study up a little on the
particulars, and make a little Rakooo Kiln, from some other
easy--to-get things...instead...
Phil
el ve
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Slatin"
> Vera --
>
> Let's remember that a barbeque is not designed with
> ceramics temperatures in mind. Many parts may be
> used that are safe only with temps below what you'll
> get with an insulating blanket around the grill.
>
> Possible problems could include burners that could
> bend/break/crack/delaminate with higher than
> design-spec temperatures, parts made with materials
> that will suffer unexpected deterioration at higher
> temps, etc.
>
> Handles are often made of different metals (or, worse,
> woods or plastics) not safe if the body of the
> barbeque reaches ceramic temps. Some metal alloys may
> become brittle at ceramic temps, too. And anything
> painted on, even a high-temp paint, isn't going to
> survive a raku firing so there're possibly some
> hazardous fumes risks you may not have planned for.
>
> Also, your grill may "stall" because the metal
> in the burners is so hot it's choking the gas outlet
> ports. (If this is the case, you may also increasing
> your risk of a flash back fire, depending on where
> in your grill the gas and air are mixed.)
>
> In any event the burner design is probably not going
> to be efficient at getting you the temperatures you
> want. It might be safer (and cheaper, counting fuel
> costs), to pull everything except the steel and cast
> iron parts off of your barbeque, and get a better-
> designed ceramic-use type burner to use. Some
> designs exist for using inexpensive simple burners
> with ignition taking place outside a kiln, and the
> flame shooting inside. Depending on the grill, that
> might work well, and those burners are cheap.
>
> I hope it doesn't sound like I'm trying to rain on
> the parade here. You may be on the verge of finding
> a whole new approach to affordable raku firing,
> which would be a boon to us all. I'd just hate
> to hear anyone on this list got hurt.
>
> -- Steve Slatin
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