Marcia Selsor on wed 15 sep 04
Dear Ben,
If you use parrafinm you can cut it with some oil for a thinner
application that can be brushed. This wrecks the brushes, but I had
students who would do it anyway.
The commercial liquid resist should be allowed to dry well. It will
work but needs to be dry before application. The greenish wax resist, I
think it is from Aftosa, works very well, but again, let it dry. The
greenish wax is visible cpmpared to white.
The ultimate idea, don't wax but just don't glaze. If you pour, you can
also pour on the under side of the lip.
Marcia in Montana
enjoying gorgeous Fall morning before going to studio.
Marcia
On Sep 14, 2004, at 10:12 PM, Ben Friesen wrote:
> Hi there Clayarters,
>
> I've got something that's really getting me. I've been dipping the
> bottoms of my pots in hot parrafin wax (heated in an electric frying
> pan) and it's been working not too bad. But how in the world do you
> wax larger platters and that? I've tried the other wax, the brush on
> type you can buy, and it just gets real gummy on me and in the end the
> glaze still gets through, I get mad and there goes another platter
> down the drain. What am I doing wrong? What other methods are there?
> Are there better kinds of brush-on wax out there? Help! Thanks in
> advance...
>
> I've also been heartily enjoying the throwing and centering thread
> here... just what I've needed and I'm looking forward to getting out
> to the studio and giving all this advice a try......
>
> Ben Friesen
> Stonepath Pottery
> Abbotsford, BC, Canada
>
> _______________________________________________________________________
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Catherine Yassin on wed 15 sep 04
In a message dated 9/15/2004 10:20:31 AM Central Standard Time,
selsor@IMT.NET writes:
> I've got something that's really getting me. I've been dipping the
> bottoms of my pots in hot parrafin wax (heated in an electric frying
> pan) and it's been working not too bad. But how in the world do you
> wax larger platters and that? I've tried the other wax, the brush on
> type you can buy, and it just gets real gummy on me and in the end the
> glaze still gets through, I get mad and there goes another platter
> down the drain.
Ben, so let me see if I have this right, you like to use the hot wax, but
your larger platters are too wide to put in your electric ffying pan with the
wax? If that is the case, you might want to get a pan that is much shallower than
the frying pan. I use a hot plate/warming plate that has a dial so I can
actually heat up to 400 degrees (if I wanted, but I don't). Usually 200 degrees
gets the was melted just fine then I lower the temp. Anyways, if you get one of
those very shallow frying pans/griddles with about 3/4 inch sides and a hot
plate, then you can wax your large platters as long as the bottoms aren't any
wider than the griddle and you don't displace the melted wax enough that it
rises up over the sides. I use parrafin too, but I don't need an inch deep of wax
in the pan, about 1/16 - 1/8 an inch is enough for me. You can find a used
griddle and hot plate at most thrift or second hand stores. (Just don't "borrow"
your wife's without her knowledge....) ;)
-Cat Yassin
San Antonio
Marvpots@AOL.COM on wed 15 sep 04
A simple way to use white wax resist so that you can see it is to add a small
amount of ordinary food coloring. As for drying, the one I use, from Ceramic
Supplyof New Jersey, is simply a water based polyethelene solution and dries
in a few minutes; I generally prepare a full kiln load (brushing on the wax
resist) one day and glaze another day.
Hope this helps you .
All the best.
Marvin Flowerman
John Rodgers on wed 15 sep 04
I do big platters, and waxing bottoms WAS an issue, but no longer.
I use a dyed wax from Duncan and hot parafin wax. The Duncan wax is a
water soluble wax and I use to make a stripe around the the platter
which serves somewhat like a watermark. Inside the mark I apply hot
parafin with a brush. The trick for me is that I put a 4 inch thick
block of foam rubber on the wheel head, and turn the platter bottom up
over the rubber. I center the platter, and with the wheel turning, use
the dyed Duncan wax to make the water mark. Once that is done, I simply
fill in with the hot parafin, brushing it out over the surface. I use a
large squirrel hair brush for the initial watermark, and then a broader
brush for the parafin.
Works good for me.
John Rodgers
Chelsea, AL
Catherine Yassin wrote:
>In a message dated 9/15/2004 10:20:31 AM Central Standard Time,
>selsor@IMT.NET writes:
>
>
>>I've got something that's really getting me. I've been dipping the
>>bottoms of my pots in hot parrafin wax (heated in an electric frying
>>pan) and it's been working not too bad. But how in the world do you
>>wax larger platters and that? I've tried the other wax, the brush on
>>type you can buy, and it just gets real gummy on me and in the end the
>>glaze still gets through, I get mad and there goes another platter
>>down the drain.
>>
>>
>Ben, so let me see if I have this right, you like to use the hot wax, but
>your larger platters are too wide to put in your electric ffying pan with the
>wax? If that is the case, you might want to get a pan that is much shallower than
>the frying pan. I use a hot plate/warming plate that has a dial so I can
>actually heat up to 400 degrees (if I wanted, but I don't). Usually 200 degrees
>gets the was melted just fine then I lower the temp. Anyways, if you get one of
>those very shallow frying pans/griddles with about 3/4 inch sides and a hot
>plate, then you can wax your large platters as long as the bottoms aren't any
>wider than the griddle and you don't displace the melted wax enough that it
>rises up over the sides. I use parrafin too, but I don't need an inch deep of wax
>in the pan, about 1/16 - 1/8 an inch is enough for me. You can find a used
>griddle and hot plate at most thrift or second hand stores. (Just don't "borrow"
>your wife's without her knowledge....) ;)
>
>-Cat Yassin
>San Antonio
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
>
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