Rhonda Kale on thu 16 sep 04
Lisa and Mary-
Amaco sells the decal paper in two sizes-
Just curious-do you put any kind of sealant on your decal paper?One of the girls at Davens taught me a method which was much easier than screening that nasty goo that smells foul and would burn the hairs off not only your sinuses but your toes. A lot of them around Atlanta use a spray-Krylon clear to be exact-but they said any clear spray would do and seal the decal paper-LET IT DRY GOOD(several hours or overnight is better-but you can cheat and use blow dryer but chance of tearing then) then do another coat, repeat steps to about 4-5 coats.DO NOT do heavy coats-light even spraying is best.You will know it's right by the feel-feels just like any other decal. After decal is dry, trim to size. Put in warm water, slide off and apply to ceramic piece-sponge,etc. LET SIT AT LEAST A DAY BEFORE FIRING . Fire as usual.
You can lino/block print or do freestyle design on decal paper with china paint also, seal and proceed as usual.Oh yeah-when you do this using a quick relase masking tape and tape decal paper onto piece of masonite/board (like you would watercolor) and then spray.
Rhonda Kale
Ivan came, made a mess,still blowing through.....
qndivauniv@earthlink.net
nuwebmail@COMCAST.NET on tue 20 jul 10
Dear all,
I am having a hard time finding a source for blank, non-covercoated, waters=
lide decals that are suitable for accepting had silk screened images or oth=
er hand printed images. I DO NOT mean the laser "fired on image" paper whic=
h has a cover coat built in and is intended to take the HP toner ink.
I know that bel decal sells the open stock, but they say they will only sel=
l a ream of 500 sheets! and only send samples out once a month???
Also, I am interested in any thoughts on covercoat. All of the books I have=
read don't really say what it is. I THINK i can use clear lacquer as a cov=
er coat (assuming I can find the appropriate blank paper)..
I have read pretty much everything in the archives and most available books=
.
Any help greatly appreciated.
Nancy Udell
clayandcolor.net
nancyudell.com
Nancy Udell on fri 23 jul 10
Hi Frank.
You don't need covercoat for laser decals because those decals have a
covercoat on them already. The heat from the laser printer gets the
toner into the covercoat so that the design can be transferred onto
clay. But for screenprinting or other hand printing on blank decals
with ceramic inks or overglazes (to get colors other than sepia), you
do need a covercoat. You can't hand print onto the laser printer
paper because it is too shiny (probably because of the built in
covercoat.) It's also much more expensive than the commercial,
blank, paper not intended specifically for use with laser printers.
Nancy
On Jul 23, 2010, at 9:45 PM, Frank Gaydos wrote:
> I never use the overspray. We found in a workshop in Peters Valley
> that you don't need it.
> I just place the decal toner face down and it binds tightly.
> Here is a web page I created telling you how to do it with samples.
> Piece of cake.
> Frank http://home.comcast.net/~frankgaydos/Decal-1.html
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Nancy Udell"
> To: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Sent: Friday, July 23, 2010 5:05:54 PM
> Subject: Re: Decal Paper
>
> Thanks Fred,
>
> That is awfully generous of you to offer to send me samples. I really
> appreciate it. After I made my post to clay art, I did find that
> Reusche & Co. has packages of 25 sheets for 19.95, so I have ordered
> some blank decal paper there. Also I was able to order covercoat by
> the pint from the Ceramic Supply Inc. in Lodi, NJ http://www.7ceramic.co=
m/Merchant2/merchant.mvc
> .
>
> So I think that I am set for now on paper and covercoat. Thank you
> for your tip on applying the covercoat. Sounds like a plan.
>
> Now, to experimenting...
>
> Nancy
>
> On Jul 23, 2010, at 1:03 PM, Fredrick Paget wrote:
>
> > If you realy want that commercial decal paper I am afraid you will
> > have to buy a ream. I have several reams and can give you a few
> > sheets if you send me your snail mail address.
> > I think the problem that Bel has with small orders for it is that it
> > is stocked in large size sheets or rolls and they have to cut it up
> > to get letter size.
> >
> > Covercoat is an alcohol (or other organic solvent ) based lacquer
> > that drys to a flexible film and it holds together the decal pigment
> > in water soak and application.
> >
> > There is a spray laquer made by Testor and sold in hobby stores to
> > model builders, called Dull coat 1260 that works .
> >
> > Krylon needs several coats and drys out brittle in a few days
> > causing it to break up during application. You have to apply the
> > decal in the first days before it gets brittle. Krylon uses some
> > sort of mixture of toluene and other solvents that have a solvent
> > action on laser images.
> > I now use a color laser printer loaded with ceramic pigment toner
> > and Krylon dissolves the image making a horrible mess.
> >
> > Bel covercoat is very very good but there is a minimum order of one
> > 4 gallon bucket. I paid $180 several years ago but it is a lifetime
> > supply for me. It is very viscous as it is formulated for silk
> > screening. I have been diluting it with denatured alcohol to make it
> > flow better and pour it on the paper and manipulate it to cover the
> > image - then hang it up to drip dry overnight. This avoids having
> > to clean a screen if you only want one or two sheets.
> >
> > Fred Paget
> >
> >
> >
> >> Dear all,
> >>
> >> I am having a hard time finding a source for blank, non-
> >> covercoated, waterslide decals that are suitable for accepting had
> >> silk screened images or other hand printed images. I DO NOT mean
> >> the laser "fired on image" paper which has a cover coat built in
> >> and is intended to take the HP toner ink.
> >>
> >> I know that bel decal sells the open stock, but they say they will
> >> only sell a ream of 500 sheets! and only send samples out once a
> >> month???
> >>
> >> Also, I am interested in any thoughts on covercoat. All of the
> >> books I have read don't really say what it is. I THINK i can use
> >> clear lacquer as a cover coat (assuming I can find the appropriate
> >> blank paper)..
> >>
> >> I have read pretty much everything in the archives and most
> >> available books.
> >>
> >> Any help greatly appreciated.
> >>
> >> Nancy Udell
> >> clayandcolor.net
> >> nancyudell.com
> >
> > --
> > Fred Paget
> > Twin Dragon Studio
> > Mill Valley, CA, USA
> > fredrick@well.com
> >
> > Charter Member Potters Council
Fredrick Paget on fri 23 jul 10
If you realy want that commercial decal paper I am afraid you will
have to buy a ream. I have several reams and can give you a few
sheets if you send me your snail mail address.
I think the problem that Bel has with small orders for it is that it
is stocked in large size sheets or rolls and they have to cut it up
to get letter size.
Covercoat is an alcohol (or other organic solvent ) based lacquer
that drys to a flexible film and it holds together the decal pigment
in water soak and application.
There is a spray laquer made by Testor and sold in hobby stores to
model builders, called Dull coat 1260 that works .
Krylon needs several coats and drys out brittle in a few days
causing it to break up during application. You have to apply the
decal in the first days before it gets brittle. Krylon uses some
sort of mixture of toluene and other solvents that have a solvent
action on laser images.
I now use a color laser printer loaded with ceramic pigment toner
and Krylon dissolves the image making a horrible mess.
Bel covercoat is very very good but there is a minimum order of one 4
gallon bucket. I paid $180 several years ago but it is a lifetime
supply for me. It is very viscous as it is formulated for silk
screening. I have been diluting it with denatured alcohol to make it
flow better and pour it on the paper and manipulate it to cover the
image - then hang it up to drip dry overnight. This avoids having
to clean a screen if you only want one or two sheets.
Fred Paget
>Dear all,
>
>I am having a hard time finding a source for blank, non-covercoated,
>waterslide decals that are suitable for accepting had silk screened
>images or other hand printed images. I DO NOT mean the laser "fired
>on image" paper which has a cover coat built in and is intended to
>take the HP toner ink.
>
>I know that bel decal sells the open stock, but they say they will
>only sell a ream of 500 sheets! and only send samples out once a
>month???
>
>Also, I am interested in any thoughts on covercoat. All of the books
>I have read don't really say what it is. I THINK i can use clear
>lacquer as a cover coat (assuming I can find the appropriate blank
>paper)..
>
>I have read pretty much everything in the archives and most available book=
s.
>
>Any help greatly appreciated.
>
>Nancy Udell
>clayandcolor.net
>nancyudell.com
--
Fred Paget
Twin Dragon Studio
Mill Valley, CA, USA
fredrick@well.com
Charter Member Potters Council
Nancy Udell on fri 23 jul 10
Thanks Fred,
That is awfully generous of you to offer to send me samples. I really
appreciate it. After I made my post to clay art, I did find that
Reusche & Co. has packages of 25 sheets for 19.95, so I have ordered
some blank decal paper there. Also I was able to order covercoat by
the pint from the Ceramic Supply Inc. in Lodi, NJ http://www.7ceramic.com/=
Merchant2/merchant.mvc
.
So I think that I am set for now on paper and covercoat. Thank you
for your tip on applying the covercoat. Sounds like a plan.
Now, to experimenting...
Nancy
On Jul 23, 2010, at 1:03 PM, Fredrick Paget wrote:
> If you realy want that commercial decal paper I am afraid you will
> have to buy a ream. I have several reams and can give you a few
> sheets if you send me your snail mail address.
> I think the problem that Bel has with small orders for it is that it
> is stocked in large size sheets or rolls and they have to cut it up
> to get letter size.
>
> Covercoat is an alcohol (or other organic solvent ) based lacquer
> that drys to a flexible film and it holds together the decal pigment
> in water soak and application.
>
> There is a spray laquer made by Testor and sold in hobby stores to
> model builders, called Dull coat 1260 that works .
>
> Krylon needs several coats and drys out brittle in a few days
> causing it to break up during application. You have to apply the
> decal in the first days before it gets brittle. Krylon uses some
> sort of mixture of toluene and other solvents that have a solvent
> action on laser images.
> I now use a color laser printer loaded with ceramic pigment toner
> and Krylon dissolves the image making a horrible mess.
>
> Bel covercoat is very very good but there is a minimum order of one
> 4 gallon bucket. I paid $180 several years ago but it is a lifetime
> supply for me. It is very viscous as it is formulated for silk
> screening. I have been diluting it with denatured alcohol to make it
> flow better and pour it on the paper and manipulate it to cover the
> image - then hang it up to drip dry overnight. This avoids having
> to clean a screen if you only want one or two sheets.
>
> Fred Paget
>
>
>
>> Dear all,
>>
>> I am having a hard time finding a source for blank, non-
>> covercoated, waterslide decals that are suitable for accepting had
>> silk screened images or other hand printed images. I DO NOT mean
>> the laser "fired on image" paper which has a cover coat built in
>> and is intended to take the HP toner ink.
>>
>> I know that bel decal sells the open stock, but they say they will
>> only sell a ream of 500 sheets! and only send samples out once a
>> month???
>>
>> Also, I am interested in any thoughts on covercoat. All of the
>> books I have read don't really say what it is. I THINK i can use
>> clear lacquer as a cover coat (assuming I can find the appropriate
>> blank paper)..
>>
>> I have read pretty much everything in the archives and most
>> available books.
>>
>> Any help greatly appreciated.
>>
>> Nancy Udell
>> clayandcolor.net
>> nancyudell.com
>
> --
> Fred Paget
> Twin Dragon Studio
> Mill Valley, CA, USA
> fredrick@well.com
>
> Charter Member Potters Council
Nancy Udell on sun 25 jul 10
Dear Fred,
This is such a helpful email. I keep coming back to it.
I have now screened on my first covercoat (which i got from Reusche).
Yikes what a mess. I see now that it is alchohol based. Is that what
i should use to clean up?
Thanks again, Nancy
On Jul 23, 2010, at 1:03 PM, Fredrick Paget wrote:
> If you realy want that commercial decal paper I am afraid you will
> have to buy a ream. I have several reams and can give you a few
> sheets if you send me your snail mail address.
> I think the problem that Bel has with small orders for it is that it
> is stocked in large size sheets or rolls and they have to cut it up
> to get letter size.
>
> Covercoat is an alcohol (or other organic solvent ) based lacquer
> that drys to a flexible film and it holds together the decal pigment
> in water soak and application.
>
> There is a spray laquer made by Testor and sold in hobby stores to
> model builders, called Dull coat 1260 that works .
>
> Krylon needs several coats and drys out brittle in a few days
> causing it to break up during application. You have to apply the
> decal in the first days before it gets brittle. Krylon uses some
> sort of mixture of toluene and other solvents that have a solvent
> action on laser images.
> I now use a color laser printer loaded with ceramic pigment toner
> and Krylon dissolves the image making a horrible mess.
>
> Bel covercoat is very very good but there is a minimum order of one
> 4 gallon bucket. I paid $180 several years ago but it is a lifetime
> supply for me. It is very viscous as it is formulated for silk
> screening. I have been diluting it with denatured alcohol to make it
> flow better and pour it on the paper and manipulate it to cover the
> image - then hang it up to drip dry overnight. This avoids having
> to clean a screen if you only want one or two sheets.
>
> Fred Paget
>
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