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misc: waxing large bottoms; cement blocks; wheel speed and back/leg

updated sat 18 sep 04

 

Lili Krakowski on thu 16 sep 04

probs; food colo[u]ring

WAXING LARGE BOTTOMS: Considering the area I think =
electrolysis--albeit costly--is the way to go! Having said that,=20
words fail to describe how much I dread the melted wax in electric =
frying pan route. For one it stinks, and I am not sure the disgusting =
fumes are good for you. Several studios have burned down because of the =
frying pans malfunctioning, or being left on overnight by mistake, or =
the wax catching fire. WHY, I ask, WHY? I won't even mention skin =
burns.....Liquid wax works well. It cannot be allowed to freeze, and it =
costs a bit more. That is all. Below two suggestions. =20

But meanwhile (dare I say butt?) There also is latex. Wonderful latex. =
Yes still costs a bit more, though if you get it by the gallon, which I =
did from NASCO, it ain't too bad. And it must not freeze. The one =
drawback I see with latex is that it ruins brushes. Yes there are ways =
of delaying the ruin, but not by much. HOWEVER for bottoms a simple =
foam rubber brush works fine. NO NO NO do NOT go buy one. =20

Get a few clothepins. The spring ones are okay, the old fashioned =
springless ones better as sturdier and nicer to hold. Now go to a foam =
rubber or upholstery store, "make nice" and buy a bagfull of trimmings. =
Cut or tear off a suitable bit of foam rubber and stick it in the =
clothes pin. Voila! Discard the foam rubber at end of workday. =
Meanwhile if you have the old fashioned ones, carve the tops into =
stamps.

Latex can be peeled off in a snap. In fact it must be removed. It may =
need thinning, easy enough to do. It is milky white and needs some food =
colorant added. (Vide infra. I do love that term!)

However; A challenging way of controling wax invasion is this: Make =
either a groove or a ridge just above the foot. Unless you are big into =
messiness any liquid wax, or glaze for that matter will be stopped--and =
your cleanup easier. Maske the groove/ridge part of your foot design.

CEMENT BLOCKS ARE GREAT FOR PROPPING UP A WHEEL. However they take =
up unnecessary room and are not tall enough for everyone. =20

Try this. Get 3 #10 cans from a cafeteria, or restaurant. These are =
the commercial size, generally,5 lbs cans. Fill them to the top with =
cement or concrete and press an upside down jar lid of suitable size, =
one that will "take" the diameter of the wheel legs--into the middle. I =
find 3 lbs jam jar lids--a bit smaller than mayo jars-- best. When all =
is dry the legs will fit into the lids, and that 3/8" or so depths =
prevents wiggling. It you need something taller than that, beg some 8" =
or 10' PVC pipe from someone and xut it to size and proceed from there.

SPEED AND BACKS and like that: Learned while visiting Seagrove how to =
keep the pedal of my Brent on my "table top" and control it with my =
hand. Also learned--easy for those raised on kickwheels--that one or =
two actual speeds is all one USES. I go fastish when centering, slow =
when throwing. Two speeds. It takes a few hours to get used to, but =
your back and your sciatic nerves will thank you all night long. If you =
stand at the wheel and use this handcontrol method you can stand anyway =
you want, prop your tush on a high stool, stand on one leg if you =
wish--it is great.

FOOD COLO[U]RING: Dannon, como no?-- is right. but do go to a bakery =
supply place or an "arts & crafts" shop that carries cake decorating =
supplies. There they have food colo[u]rs in many shades, and in small =
jars of paste, cheaper and more versatile than the little teardrop =
thingies at the supermarket. REMEMBER: this is very serious colo[u]r =
and stains fingers and clothes. I have used in a pinch as watercolor =
substitute...

Lili