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viewing cones

updated wed 20 jul 05

 

Gene and Dolita Dohrman on sat 25 sep 04


Not that I have a whole lot of experience in this area, but I have an Easy
Fire L&L. It does everything but load itself, I love it. However, if I
program it for an ^06 bisque, it shuts off before the ^06 cone goes down. I
find I have to turn it back on and plug in ^05, then watch the cones
carefully. I have already talked to a tech at L&L and we adjusted the
thermocouples. However, it turned off at 1800 this last firing. I have
decided to just plug in ^05 from now on and keep my eye on the cones. I
don't want to keep messing with the thermocouples. I would think you would
absolutely need to watch the cones with a glaze firing. There was a
suggestion of blowing in the peep hole to cool the cones slightly-even use a
hair drier if it is handy. The cool air works. When I check the cones, my
vent is still running and pulls in a little cool air, I see a perfect
silhouette of the cone for an instant. It is recommended that you don't
leave the vent running while doing this, but the tech told me they do it all
the time. I might use a different approach when I am doing a glaze firing
though. Just a thought. I just don't think relying totally on the electric
kiln and its thermocouples is safe.
Dolita

dohrman@insightbb.com
Louisville, KY

> I just find that although I can't, with an electric kiln and thermocouples
I don't absolutely >need to.
>
> Thanks for the thoughts -- Steve S.
.

L. P. Skeen on sat 25 sep 04


Hey Dolita, if you ask mel really nice-like, I bet he'd make you an
automatic kiln loader as soon as he's finished with Joyce's throwing
machine. Prolly have the prototype done by NCECA....

L
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gene and Dolita Dohrman"
I have an Easy Fire L&L. It does everything but load itself, I love it.

Bob Masta on sun 26 sep 04


Ron Roy said:

> I wish somebody would find something to put behind cones so
> they would be easy to see - there must be something.

Ron, I think this may not be possible even in theory. The
glow that we see inside the kiln is black body radiation.
Anything at the same temperature will radiate the same
way. So whatever you put behind the cones would still
look the same as the cones themselves... no contrast.

I've been thinking lately about some sort of reflective
approach. A laser beam can have great intensity at
a narrow wavelength, possibly enough to overcome the
black body radiation at that same wavelength if viewed
through a matching filter. If so, then perhaps waving
a laser pointer beam over the cones would make them
stand out. After all, they should be pretty reflective
when they start to melt, whereas if there was rough kiln
brick behind them it wouldn't reflect as strongly.

Now all I need is a narrowband filter matched to
a laser pointer, and I can test this out. I'll let the
group know if I find anything.


Bob Masta

potsATdaqartaDOTcom

Earl Brunner on sun 26 sep 04


Bob, your radiation may be part of it, but it can't be ALL, at least in a
gas or fuel burning kiln. Sometimes, especially in the top part of my
downdraft kiln, the atmosphere is just too thick. Down in the bottom of the
kiln, the cones can be identical, but I can see them better. I could screw
up the setting of the kiln, by opening up the damper all of the way and
clearing the atmosphere, but then I would have to go through all the mess of
getting the damper back right.

Earl Brunner
Las Vegas, NV
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Bob Masta
Sent: Sunday, September 26, 2004 7:08 AM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Viewing cones

Ron Roy said:

> I wish somebody would find something to put behind cones so
> they would be easy to see - there must be something.

Ron, I think this may not be possible even in theory. The
glow that we see inside the kiln is black body radiation.
Anything at the same temperature will radiate the same
way. So whatever you put behind the cones would still
look the same as the cones themselves... no contrast.

I've been thinking lately about some sort of reflective
approach. A laser beam can have great intensity at
a narrow wavelength, possibly enough to overcome the
black body radiation at that same wavelength if viewed
through a matching filter. If so, then perhaps waving
a laser pointer beam over the cones would make them
stand out. After all, they should be pretty reflective
when they start to melt, whereas if there was rough kiln
brick behind them it wouldn't reflect as strongly.

Now all I need is a narrowband filter matched to
a laser pointer, and I can test this out. I'll let the
group know if I find anything.


Bob Masta

potsATdaqartaDOTcom

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Ron Roy on mon 27 sep 04


Hi Bob,

Thanks for this - my instinct is to accept what you are saying - and I
admit that I have never found anything that works - but are you absolutely
sure?

There must be something that would appear darker - some coating - some kind
of texture - or even lighter?

Good luck with the laser - keep the price down will you.

RR


>> I wish somebody would find something to put behind cones so
>> they would be easy to see - there must be something.
>
>Ron, I think this may not be possible even in theory. The
>glow that we see inside the kiln is black body radiation.
>Anything at the same temperature will radiate the same
>way. So whatever you put behind the cones would still
>look the same as the cones themselves... no contrast.
>
>I've been thinking lately about some sort of reflective
>approach. A laser beam can have great intensity at
>a narrow wavelength, possibly enough to overcome the
>black body radiation at that same wavelength if viewed
>through a matching filter. If so, then perhaps waving
>a laser pointer beam over the cones would make them
>stand out. After all, they should be pretty reflective
>when they start to melt, whereas if there was rough kiln
>brick behind them it wouldn't reflect as strongly.
>
>Now all I need is a narrowband filter matched to
>a laser pointer, and I can test this out. I'll let the
>group know if I find anything.
>
>
>Bob Masta
>
>potsATdaqartaDOTcom
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.

Ron Roy
RR#4
15084 Little Lake Road
Brighton, Ontario
Canada
K0K 1H0
Phone: 613-475-9544
Fax: 613-475-3513

Louis Katz on mon 27 sep 04


With slightly larger spyholes a flashlight works great. Perhaps mini
focused spot light with a telescope and uv protection?
How about an ITC coated brick behind the cones, if its such a good
radiator it should appear different.
I just use a squirt gun when I am really stuck.
Louis
On Sep 27, 2004, at 1:48 AM, Ron Roy wrote:

Edouard Bastarache Inc. on mon 27 sep 04


Hello,

beam a powerfull flashlight at the cone pack,
move your head from right to left,
and wear tinted glasses to fight glare;
you should then be able to read cones, even at
C/10 redux.
One option is to keep your head steady and move
your flaslight right to left, with or without and angle,
to see cones while they are going down.

At least, I can do it and I only fire my large
gas kiln twice a year. My glazes are OK and
"repeatable" from firing to firing, therefore my
way of reading cones must OK.


Later,



"Ils sont fous ces quebecois"
Edouard Bastarache
Irreductible Quebecois
Indomitable Quebeker
Sorel-Tracy
Quebec
edouardb@sorel-tracy.qc.ca
www.sorel-tracy.qc.ca/~edouardb/Welcome.html
http://perso.wanadoo.fr/smart2000/index.htm
http://www.digitalfire.com/education/toxicity/

wjskw@BELLSOUTH.NET on mon 27 sep 04


Blowing through the peep does work. It helps if the air can be kept
cool while doing so. The idea of the iron pipe was a great one. I
hadn't thought of that.

What I did discover was those little cans of compressed air that one
buys at the office supply place, used for cleaning in between keys
on keyboards, blowing crap out of cracks (your choice of crack ).
Combined with an iron pipe, you'll see those cones for sure.
I'm surprised that no one mentioned this.
Course, it helps if the cones aren't halfway across the kiln, too.

Hmmm...iron pipe, compressed air...sounds like a potato gun ROFL

Seriously though, couldn't a thin tile (stood vertically) be used
behind the cones, as part of the cone pack? it would give the air
someplace to back u pagainst. Might make viewing easier too.

Best,

Wayne Seidl

-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Louis
Katz
Sent: Monday, September 27, 2004 10:09 AM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: Viewing cones

With slightly larger spyholes a flashlight works great. Perhaps mini
focused spot light with a telescope and uv protection?
How about an ITC coated brick behind the cones, if its such a good
radiator it should appear different.
I just use a squirt gun when I am really stuck.
Louis
On Sep 27, 2004, at 1:48 AM, Ron Roy wrote:

____________________________________________________________________
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Ken Nowicki on mon 27 sep 04


In a message dated 09/27/04, wjskw@BELLSOUTH.NET writes:
Seriously though, couldn't a thin tile (stood vertically) be used
behind the cones, as part of the cone pack? it would give the air
someplace to back u pagainst. Might make viewing easier too.

Best,

Wayne Seidl
.........................................................

How about a thin tile painted with iron wash? Would that offer some contrast
to the cones?

- Ken


Kenneth J. Nowicki
Port Washington, NY
RakuArtist@aol.com
Charter Member/Potters Council

Debbie on mon 27 sep 04


Hi All,

I'm confused about the efficacy of putting anything behind the cones to aid
viewing.

I've never had trouble seeing the cones @ either ^6 or ^10 by making sure
that there was NO-thing behind them. That clear, empty (& very narrow)
corridor right to the back wall of the kiln opposite the viewing hole has
worked for me every time only occasionally needing a puff of air to aid the
view. (No dust/crumbs yet ever found in glazes).

The 1/2" or so of space is a fair trade for a quick & sure sighting. At
least I prefer it to bobbing all around with a glowing plug in one hand for
any extended time.

BTW- I'm a unimpeded blue eyed cone watcher
Best, Debbie


> Seriously though, couldn't a thin tile (stood vertically) be used
> behind the cones, as part of the cone pack? it would give the air
> someplace to back u pagainst. Might make viewing easier too.
>

Rhonda Kale on mon 27 sep 04


I use one of those little flashlights called a Mini MagLite-they seem to make a brighter, pointier light-also flashlights/headlights with new LED light(REALLY bright)-stand about a foot from the bung hole or put your headlight pointed into hole- dark glasses on-highlights cones fine....

Rhonda Kale
blue-eyed and red-haired
31.23595 N, 85.40529 W
Potters Council Member
qndivauniv@earthlink.net

Mike Martino on tue 28 sep 04


I bought a nifty pair of glasses from Ward burner systems, can't remember
the exact name of them, but they let me see those cones at cone 10 plus, and
no
fried eyeballs, flashlights, laserbeams, blowing in the holes, etc..... I
think they ran around 40 bucks.

Mike
in Taku, Japan

-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG]On Behalf Of Rhonda Kale
Sent: Tuesday, September 28, 2004 9:37 AM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Viewing Cones


I use one of those little flashlights called a Mini MagLite-they seem to
make a brighter, pointier light-also flashlights/headlights with new LED
light(REALLY bright)-stand about a foot from the bung hole or put your
headlight pointed into hole- dark glasses on-highlights cones fine....

Rhonda Kale
blue-eyed and red-haired
31.23595 N, 85.40529 W
Potters Council Member
qndivauniv@earthlink.net

____________________________________________________________________________
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org

You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/

Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.

Judy Musicant on wed 29 sep 04


After many years of experience with my glazes, I developed a system =
whereby I place a cone pack consisting of a cone 5 and 6 in the =
middle-back of the top shelf of my Skutt 1027 on top of a couple of =
pieces of kiln furniture. The cones are slightly leaning to the left on =
the pack, which I make from small pats of clay. I place them so that =
when the cone 5 has bent all the way down and over the cone pack and is =
pointing back toward the kiln furniture it is standing on, the point =
will be in front of an element. It is highlighted that way, and I can =
easily see it. =20

This technique means that I can't stuff the kiln with quite as many =
pieces as I would otherwise, but it has worked for me.

Judy Musicant
Mountainview Pottery
pottersguildnj.org

Steve Slatin on mon 18 jul 05


Great idea! Just for our info, what kind of camera
did you use? Did you use a special setting?

-- Steve S.

--- Ken Kang wrote:

> Took pictures of the cones on my last firing with my
> digital camera. I took them looking at the LCD
> monitor, no need for eye protection.
> After taking a picture I enlarged them on the LCD
> monitor for instant viewing. Cone 9 is on the right
> side. The first picture temp. is about ^4 and the
> last is cone 9 bending.
> See the results at my site, viewing cones album.
> http://photos.yahoo.com/rakuken2000


Steve Slatin --

Frail my heart apart and play me little Shady Grove
Ring the bells of Rhymney till they ring inside my head forever

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Ken Kang on mon 18 jul 05


Took pictures of the cones on my last firing with my digital camera. I =
took them looking at the LCD monitor, no need for eye protection.=20
After taking a picture I enlarged them on the LCD monitor for instant =
viewing. Cone 9 is on the right side. The first picture temp. is about =
^4 and the last is cone 9 bending.
See the results at my site, viewing cones album.
http://photos.yahoo.com/rakuken2000

Aloha, Ken

Ken Kang on tue 19 jul 05


----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Slatin"
To:
Sent: Monday, July 18, 2005 5:41 PM
Subject: Re: viewing cones


> Great idea! Just for our info, what kind of camera
> did you use? Did you use a special setting?
>
> -- Steve S.


I have a Canon G3.
The setting was on auto with the macro mode on and full telephoto.
With the setting on macro, the auto focus length was about a foot from the
peep hole.
An afterthought, if I had changed the white balance would the cones be seen
better?
I won't be firing soon, hope someone else tries and see if the results can
come out better.

Aloha, Ken

> --- Ken Kang wrote:
>
>> Took pictures of the cones on my last firing with my
>> digital camera. I took them looking at the LCD
>> monitor, no need for eye protection.
>> After taking a picture I enlarged them on the LCD
>> monitor for instant viewing. Cone 9 is on the right
>> side. The first picture temp. is about ^4 and the
>> last is cone 9 bending.
>> See the results at my site, viewing cones album.
>> http://photos.yahoo.com/rakuken2000