Christine Caswell on sun 3 oct 04
"Next question: Maybe Phil or Vince or a List Member with an addition to
their Pugmill could answer. What type/thickness of metal should I ask to be
used for fabrication of this plate ? If my memory is correct, in Elsbeth
Woody's book on throwing, she fabricated her coils so that there was a
male/female profile. I would assume that I would need to find someone who
could laser cut(??) the metal so that the pattern was more exact than "burnt
out/torched" metal ?
Would the thick cutting boards that are often used to make templates in hand
extruders be strong enough ? Example:If I drill out one hole 1 1/2 inches
diameter and fit it to the pugmill with bolts,washers, lock washers and
nuts, would that work?"
I had a friend loan me his pugmill (a Bluebird? I think) when I was working
on a series of very large coiled vases. He made his die with 3/4"
plexiglass and just drilled a hole and filed it smooth. He clamped the die
to the pugmill with C-clamps. It worked great. I had nice even long smooth
coils that took a lot less time. And it didn't harm the pugmill.
Hope that helps.
-Christine Caswell
Maine
Rod Wuetherick on sun 3 oct 04
Christine,
Lexan can be used quite easily. I use Lexan to extrude 10" wide hollow forms
without wooden backing support. The beauty of Lexan is if you find a GE
supplier in your neighborhood and ask them nicely if you can dig through
their scrap pile you can get enough to last you a very long time.
What I did is I went to GE and I bought a 1/2 sheet of 1/4" Lexan for $50.00
then after paying I said, "Hey you must have a scrap heap for commercial
jobs right?" They brought me to the back and I got panels of Lexan 3/4"
thick (100's of dollars a sheet) for free. I got so much that I haven't been
back in 3 years. The 3/4" is amazing for large hollow dies. The 1/4 inch
works fine for most smaller dies. Try it you will be pleasantly surprised at
the ease and dependability.
The beauty of Lexan is that you can make incredibly complicated forms with a
simple RotoZip or Dremel with a router attachment. If you move in an easy
consistent manner there is no melting and no fumes what so ever, making this
a wonderfully safe and reliable medium for making pugmill\extruder dies.
I don't use these on my pugmill but I do use them on my pneumatic Baily
extruder and I have never had a problem with them.
For simple coils get some Lexan cut the holes you want. Use C-Clamps to
clamp to your barrel. Off you go. Remember many pugmills are aluminum so
take care not to tighten more than necessary.
Good Luck,
Rod
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG]On Behalf Of Christine
Caswell
Sent: Sunday, October 03, 2004 4:53 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: (Throwing large coil pots)Extruding pugmill
"Next question: Maybe Phil or Vince or a List Member with an addition to
their Pugmill could answer. What type/thickness of metal should I ask to be
used for fabrication of this plate ? If my memory is correct, in Elsbeth
Woody's book on throwing, she fabricated her coils so that there was a
male/female profile. I would assume that I would need to find someone who
could laser cut(??) the metal so that the pattern was more exact than "burnt
out/torched" metal ?
Would the thick cutting boards that are often used to make templates in hand
extruders be strong enough ? Example:If I drill out one hole 1 1/2 inches
diameter and fit it to the pugmill with bolts,washers, lock washers and
nuts, would that work?"
I had a friend loan me his pugmill (a Bluebird? I think) when I was working
on a series of very large coiled vases. He made his die with 3/4"
plexiglass and just drilled a hole and filed it smooth. He clamped the die
to the pugmill with C-clamps. It worked great. I had nice even long smooth
coils that took a lot less time. And it didn't harm the pugmill.
Hope that helps.
-Christine Caswell
Maine
____________________________________________________________________________
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
John Bandurchin on mon 4 oct 04
Christine
Several things can be used to make a die for the end of a pug mill.
Plexiglass is good and you don't need 3/4 inch. You could use 1/4" and cut
out a template of 3/4" plywood to support the plexiglass. We had an old pug
mill and got several types of aluminum ends for it we use for extruding.
One in particular has a 2.75" hole in it that is very handy to use as a
support for a plexiglass die. 1/4" is fairly easy to cut but wouldn't stand
the strain of being bolted to the end of the machine. So you would need a
support.
Wood is also good for a simple die. Solid 5/8" birch plywood (no voids) is
good but it's expensive as you have to buy a large sheet and it would be a
special order at a lumber yard. If you could find a piece of maple, that
would be plenty strong enough and you could do the necessary cutting
yourself without having to go to a machine shop.
John Bandurchin
Baltimore Ontario
----- Original Message -----
From: "Christine Caswell"
To:
Sent: Sunday, October 03, 2004 7:52 PM
Subject: (Throwing large coil pots)Extruding pugmill
> "Next question: Maybe Phil or Vince or a List Member with an addition to
> their Pugmill could answer. What type/thickness of metal should I ask to
be
> used for fabrication of this plate ? If my memory is correct, in Elsbeth
> Woody's book on throwing, she fabricated her coils so that there was a
> male/female profile. I would assume that I would need to find someone who
> could laser cut(??) the metal so that the pattern was more exact than
"burnt
> out/torched" metal ?
>
> Would the thick cutting boards that are often used to make templates in
hand
> extruders be strong enough ? Example:If I drill out one hole 1 1/2 inches
> diameter and fit it to the pugmill with bolts,washers, lock washers and
> nuts, would that work?"
>
>
>
>
> I had a friend loan me his pugmill (a Bluebird? I think) when I was
working
> on a series of very large coiled vases. He made his die with 3/4"
> plexiglass and just drilled a hole and filed it smooth. He clamped the
die
> to the pugmill with C-clamps. It worked great. I had nice even long
smooth
> coils that took a lot less time. And it didn't harm the pugmill.
>
> Hope that helps.
>
> -Christine Caswell
> Maine
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Joyce LEE on mon 4 oct 04
ok
----- Original Message -----=20
From: Rod Wuetherick=20
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG=20
Sent: Sunday, October 03, 2004 11:51 PM
Subject: Re: (Throwing large coil pots)Extruding pugmill
Christine,
Lexan can be used quite easily. I use Lexan to extrude 10" wide hollow =
forms
without wooden backing support. The beauty of Lexan is if you find a =
GE
supplier in your neighborhood and ask them nicely if you can dig =
through
their scrap pile you can get enough to last you a very long time.
What I did is I went to GE and I bought a 1/2 sheet of 1/4" Lexan for =
$50.00
then after paying I said, "Hey you must have a scrap heap for =
commercial
jobs right?" They brought me to the back and I got panels of Lexan =
3/4"
thick (100's of dollars a sheet) for free. I got so much that I =
haven't been
back in 3 years. The 3/4" is amazing for large hollow dies. The 1/4 =
inch
works fine for most smaller dies. Try it you will be pleasantly =
surprised at
the ease and dependability.
The beauty of Lexan is that you can make incredibly complicated forms =
with a
simple RotoZip or Dremel with a router attachment. If you move in an =
easy
consistent manner there is no melting and no fumes what so ever, =
making this
a wonderfully safe and reliable medium for making pugmill\extruder =
dies.
I don't use these on my pugmill but I do use them on my pneumatic =
Baily
extruder and I have never had a problem with them.
For simple coils get some Lexan cut the holes you want. Use C-Clamps =
to
clamp to your barrel. Off you go. Remember many pugmills are aluminum =
so
take care not to tighten more than necessary.
Good Luck,
Rod
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG]On Behalf Of Christine
Caswell
Sent: Sunday, October 03, 2004 4:53 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: (Throwing large coil pots)Extruding pugmill
"Next question: Maybe Phil or Vince or a List Member with an addition =
to
their Pugmill could answer. What type/thickness of metal should I ask =
to be
used for fabrication of this plate ? If my memory is correct, in =
Elsbeth
Woody's book on throwing, she fabricated her coils so that there was a
male/female profile. I would assume that I would need to find someone =
who
could laser cut(??) the metal so that the pattern was more exact than =
"burnt
out/torched" metal ?
Would the thick cutting boards that are often used to make templates =
in hand
extruders be strong enough ? Example:If I drill out one hole 1 1/2 =
inches
diameter and fit it to the pugmill with bolts,washers, lock washers =
and
nuts, would that work?"
I had a friend loan me his pugmill (a Bluebird? I think) when I was =
working
on a series of very large coiled vases. He made his die with 3/4"
plexiglass and just drilled a hole and filed it smooth. He clamped =
the die
to the pugmill with C-clamps. It worked great. I had nice even long =
smooth
coils that took a lot less time. And it didn't harm the pugmill.
Hope that helps.
-Christine Caswell
Maine
=
_________________________________________________________________________=
___
__
Send postings to =
clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from =
http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
=
_________________________________________________________________________=
_____
Send postings to =
clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from =
http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at =
melpots@pclink.com.
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