pdp1@EARTHLINK.NET on fri 8 oct 04
Hi Randy,
Generally, most Gallery Pedestals are in essence, a sort of
rectangular or square tube, closed on their top, or
sometimes closed on top and bottom.
Depending on the materials, one either allows the sides to
be all there is in themselves for
'sides', because they are strong enough for it, or, one
applies a thinner sheet-material to a more complex wooden
frame. Or one uses some laminate, veneer, or covering on
either sort of substrate.
If for a Gallery, and if for Painted Pedestals, and where
the weight and strength of the Pedestals is both useful for
their stability, and, not an issue for their needing to be
transported, I have tended to use 3/4 inch Medite or MDF,
and, either have neatly fitted Butt Joints for the side's
and top's joins, or, allow the side pieces to meet in some
other fashion such as having respectively, 1/4 inch tongues,
and 1/4 inch grooves, registering usually on the inner
edge...or, rabbets as are the full 3/4 inch width and say
1/4 inch deep. The advantage to either of the latter two, is
that they keep the sides from swimming when one is clamping
up their Glued edges.
If for simple Paint-Grade Gallery Pedestals, my habit ( for
sake of ease, time, cost to my customer, and a good strong
outcome no less, if trickier to handle on account of the
Glued sides wanting to swim,) is to simply glue well, ( glue
smeared well into both mateing surfaces if not twice so on
the 'edges' or ends of the one side of each) useing simple
butt-joints, whose minute vagueries I would sand off after
the glue has thoroughly cured....and, Staple while the Glue
is new and wet.
These could also be either pilot-drilled, and countersunk
while dry-clamped, and then screwed once the Glue is
applied, or, when in clamps, and with Glue applied, may be
fastened with a series of stout, two and a half inch length
'Senco' (or other) brand pnuematically applied Staples as I
tend to do. Who likewise, get the attentions of the Belt
Sander, and of the Prime & Spackle, once the Glue has
cured.
The only drawback to useing just a Staple Gun of this sort,
for butt-jounts (or toungue-and-groove or rabbeted joints)
of Medite or the like, when Glueing them, is that is it
difficult without Clamps, to ensure the two respective sides
of the joint are drawn together tightly, nor may one rely on
the Staple itself, or pressing on the Gun, to be doing so as
well as one may have hoped. So, some dexterous momentary use
of Clamps to hold sections snugly together for the Staples
to bind for-keeps while the Glue cures, while the sides are
trying to 'swim', is benificial if a little cumbersome. One
may Glue & Staple one long joint at a time, to ease
somewhat, the otherwise tribulations of this.
If one only is to be useing only a Table Saw for the joints
getting made, certainly the simple Butt-Joints (either just
Glued well and clamped, or, Glued well and screwed or
Stapled or Nailed even with appropriate pilot holes) are
easiest to make, and if done well are as strong as need be
anyway.
And, also, do make sure your Blade is a nice true 90 degrees
to the top of the Table, lest the other than quite 90 degree
cuts you will have on the edges of the 3/4 inch MDF or what,
shall vex you later when Glueing-up and so on...
Too, Table Saws seldom come with the correct lead, for the
rear of the Blade to be free of the Work passing by it's
trailing right side end.
The Fence should be set up or modified to allow for a slight
relief of the Blade's back or trailing right side end...just
enough for the Blade to clear the Work is all...this makes
for neater and more precise cuts of whatever one is passing
though it from the right side, but might not matter much
for most sundry things.
But too, do check out your Saw also, as for the blade being
aligned for paralell to the left hand outer edge of the
Table's side, or, to those gooves the Table has in it for
it's slideing devices...and, thence, for the fitting of the
Fence to defer to that as a reference for it's own paralell,
or, for a slight relief as I mention above...
Paint Grade Pedestals, after whatever light Belt or Orbital
sanding one may initially do after glue-up and whatever
fastening...would then be dusted, cleared of little loose
bits that are about to chip off from Screw's or Nail's or
Staple's holes in the surfaces, and then spot Primed in all
seams or joints or little other areas as shall want some
Spackleing afterward. One does well to go ahead at this
point and Prine heavily, all the raw 'ends' for that matter,
as they soak up the Primer more than the faces or fields
will do.
Then Spackle ( never Spackle onto un-primed Wood or MDF
etc.)
Then, Orbital or other light Sand untill all are smooth and
level, then, usually, lightly spackle again in any dimples,
and Sand again.
Then (a good grade of Oil Base is allways 'best') Prime the
whole...or, also consider to tint the Primer ( or have it
tinted) for it to be close to one's final color...
Then split-coated, with more or less about half-Primer and
half-Paint mixed together...
Then lightly Sanded if necessary depending on the kind of
smooth or not one wishes to end up with...
Then Painted two coats ( also, a good grade of Oil Base
Paint is best...for durability, for someday maybe washing
them, resistance to routine cleaning supplies, spilled Wine
at Openings, scuffs, and so on...)
And...basically, that's the drill...
Style or design otherwise as for whether they shall have
Lexan or other 'cubes' or rectangles registering on and for
encloseing items on their tops, treatment of their base's
bottoms or whatever details of style and so on, are
elaborations as occur on the foundation outlined above...
Best wishes,
Phil
Las Vegas, Nevada
aka 'el ve'...
aka distopia...
aka 'The Carbunkle of the Colorado'...
aka 'The Meadows' ( or so in spanish the term 'Las Vegas' is
said to mean...)
aka The Romance of the Desert, refuted, by endless horrid
peripheral suburbs, and a worse 'middle'...
etc...
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy McCall"
Phil
I am in SC and am not sure where you live. I am have a
table saw and can use it fairly well.
Any advice would be appreciated.
What material do you use?
How do you get the angles where the piece fit together
smoothly?
Any other techniques would be appreciated.
Randy
Pottery Web Site
memberts.tripod.com/~McCallJ/index.html
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Randy McCall on fri 8 oct 04
I have admired the way Ben Owen uses the square white pedistals for his =
studio. Can you build these or can you buy them somewhere all ready =
built?
Randy
pdp1@EARTHLINK.NET on fri 8 oct 04
Hi Randy,
You can certainly build them yourself, but, like other
things, (say, making Pots yourself,) it takes what it takes
to either do them well, or, even, to even do them at all.
I have designed and made a great many Gallery Pedestals of
various kinds and shapes, for private as well as City and
County Galleries, and, if you are stumped, I would be glad
to offer some instruction or advice. Or, if you live close,
and wanted to do so, I would be happy to build them for you,
and you or your designate, could come get 'em.
Best wishes,
Phil
el ve
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy McCall"
I have admired the way Ben Owen uses the square white
pedistals for his studio. Can you build these or can you
buy them somewhere all ready built?
Randy
joe shaw on fri 8 oct 04
Hi Phil,
This isn't Randy, it's the Shaws. We show in Santa Barbara every
Sunday at an outdoor art show. We want to build some pedestals that
would be easy and to transport, but durable and classy as well. Are
there such items in existence? Any ideas you might be willing to
share would be greatly appreciated.
Joe just got a new craftsman table saw, with that idea in mind. We
set up on grass, sidewalk in front, driveway on the south side,
unfortunately. A painter with oils and watercolors is on the north
side, he is pinned by our display and a chain wire fence along the
river, an even worse location.
Both of our display areas have a thick black chain running from post
to post (posts are about 8 foot apart) directly in front. We have
thought about trying to set a few pedestals inside our canopy if we
can convince people to walk around and enter from the only open side.
For that reason, we want some smaller ones that we could place on our
present display, a three tier set-up about 20 ft long, black wood on
nice chrome racks; and perhaps a few we could set up inside the
canopy if that works out.
Since we are both disabled, the weight and ease is very important.
Also, you don't say where you live, so we don't know how close we
might be if we wanted you to build them for us...
Thanks,
Joe and Rita Shaw
shaw pottery
1513 South Thornburg Street
Santa Maria, CA 93458
805-922-5507
805-720-2146 (cell)
(mailto:shawpottery@earthlink.net)
http://home.earthlink.net/~shawpottery/shaw_pottery.html
>Hi Randy,
>
>
>You can certainly build them yourself, but, like other
>things, (say, making Pots yourself,) it takes what it takes
>to either do them well, or, even, to even do them at all.
>
>
>I have designed and made a great many Gallery Pedestals of
>various kinds and shapes, for private as well as City and
>County Galleries, and, if you are stumped, I would be glad
>to offer some instruction or advice. Or, if you live close,
>and wanted to do so, I would be happy to build them for you,
>and you or your designate, could come get 'em.
>
>
>Best wishes,
>
>Phil
>el ve
>
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Randy McCall"
>
>I have admired the way Ben Owen uses the square white
>pedistals for his studio. Can you build these or can you
>buy them somewhere all ready built?
>
>Randy
--
wjskw@BELLSOUTH.NET on fri 8 oct 04
Randy:
http://www.homedecorators.com
All different style, size, and color pedestals.
Hope that helps.
Wayne Seidl
-----Original Message-----
=20
I have admired the way Ben Owen uses the square white pedistals for
his studio. Can you build these or can you buy them somewhere all
ready built?
Randy
____________________________________________________________________
__________
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Randy McCall on fri 8 oct 04
Phil=20
I am in SC and am not sure where you live. I am have a table saw and =
can use it fairly well. =20
Any advice would be appreciated.
What material do you use?
How do you get the angles where the piece fit together smoothly?
Any other techniques would be appreciated.
Randy
Pottery Web Site
memberts.tripod.com/~McCallJ/index.html
Cat Jarosz on sat 9 oct 04
There is a company out there called OUTWATER PLASTICS that carries a
product called plastic hinge. and it also carries plastic ?? for lack of better
word Caps ?? a U shaped strip that comes in various thickness that will
cover the bottoms and tops of the plywood or whatever it is you use for your
pedestals.
The plastic hinge is like having 2 of the caps welded together so it
acts like a hinge and can fold back and forth... they fold right up for easier
storage. It comes in various thickness so make sure you have your material
first before ordering this stuff... ps I used 1/4" plywood so ordered 1/4
inch plastic hinge and cap... it's heavy and I would love to find something
lighter yet as sturdy ( any ideas?)
I dont know the address off hand but thinking surely they must be out on
the web somewhere by now.. Or maybe someone else on Clay art has that
address.. I have the imfo buried so deep somewhere in this house that it will take
days to find it... I dont have that kind of time right now but after I finish
up this whirlwind of shows and non stop work I will be trying to locate the
imfo as I want to build some more of these things .. mine are getting a bit
long in the tooth and I heard the product has improved alot since I
purchased some 14 odd yrs ago or more.
warm regards, Cat Jarosz who opened a
pretty nice kiln load of pots at 130 am last nite and will spend most of the
day prepping it for reload and starting that process once again... 3 back to
back loads or left over pots from july's firings and 2 months worth of work
. But not gonna fire tomorrow as there is a doggie Carnival and Curly the
Airedale really really really wants to go and have FUN!!! The doggie park
has been destroyed by the flooding and hurricanes so she has not had any
socialization or fun with dogs in long time.. LOL gotta go she is groaning at
me now and big paw slapping the door..pps I worked really really really hard
to be able to take tomorrow off !!! Cant explain how hard it is to take a day
off at this time of yr.. its sort of a miracle to me...
pps. One last comment.. Mel's relaying the story of the famous potters
apprentice that wears john lennon glasses struck a cord that I can not explain
in me.. He will NOT WHORE himself out by selling pots to the public... what
a slap in the face that was :o( ... I cant explain how deep inside that
cut, it just kinda left me with an empty feeling.... No respect and no respect
for a famous person that could hire someone on with NO HEART or SOUL for
Clay work and all it represents.. Most of us gotta Whore ourselves out for
something and I for one worked some literally shitty jobs ( sewer dept )
and some factory jobs ( vampire crew 3rd shift ) just so I could be a clay
Hoe and sell pots to the public.. so that said please come to the below
and let me HOE myself you some pots
The Southern Highland Guild Oct Craft Fair is coming right up.. Oct 21-24
Asheville NC Civic Cntr. downtown on Haywood Street...... 10-6 thursday thru
sunday...
V)''(V Airedale woof & >^..^< mew, Chicks with beards rule!
(_o_)
\||/
Url Krueger on sat 9 oct 04
I do believe that Phil's description of how to build pedestals is, in
itself, a definition of Craftmanship !!
Sure, the paying attention to detail is time consuming and extra work,
but the results will then be a work of art unto themselves. Does not
your artwork deserve to sit atop a work of art?
--
Earl K...
Bothell WA, USA
"You may be disappointed if you fail,
but you are doomed if you don't try."
Beverly Sills (1929 - )
John Bandurchin on wed 13 oct 04
Hi All
I know of a David Fernandez (Not really sure of the spelling - z or s)
who is a potter and has started a business making square plastic pedestals
for the display of artworks. Never bought any, but looked at them and they
look very professional - although one could certainly make suitable
pedestals for less cost if they had the time to spare.
David moved to Greensboro NC recently and if one wants to get hold of him, I
suggest call Gilmore Enterprises at 336 274-5550
David does shows with Gilmores and I expect they'll give you his number.
John Bandurchin
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy McCall"
To:
Sent: Friday, October 08, 2004 5:55 PM
Subject: Square Display pedistals for Studios
I have admired the way Ben Owen uses the square white pedistals for his
studio. Can you build these or can you buy them somewhere all ready built?
Randy
____________________________________________________________________________
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
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