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wet wheels

updated wed 3 nov 04

 

Suzanne Wolfe on mon 1 nov 04


Dear Clayarters,
This past Saturday evening our ceramics lab flooded. Three feet of
water filled our dry materials storage room, and the rest of the lab
had about ten inches of water. (It was a HUGE rainstorm. Our main
library had 6' of water in the basement, and lost invaluable maps and
photographs.) What would help us immensely is if some of you have
experience with the new Shimpo Whisper wheels (the ones with metal
skirts). The wheels were submerged in about eight inches of water, and
the foot pedals and the on/off switches all got wet. Our lab assistant
removed the bottoms of the wheels and worked on getting them to start
again. While most of them can run, my concern is the potential damage
done to the foot pedal mechanism and the on/off switches. If any of
you have experience with this kind of problem, or if you are familiar
with this Shimpo "whisper" model, some sound advice regarding this
problem would be appreciated. The wheels were new -- only 2 and 1/2
months old -- and I am concerned about the extent to which they may
have been damaged by the muddy water in which they were submerged.
One thing I have noticed about these wheels is that while we have only
had them for a bit more than two months, the tops where the splash pan
sits has a ring of rust -- our students wash the splash pans and put
them back on the wheels. None of our other Shimpos have had this
problem, only these new ones (which Shimpo is having made in China).
Any comments or advice regarding either of these problems is welcome.

Suzanne Wolfe, University of Hawai'i

Fredrick Paget on tue 2 nov 04


>Dear Clayarters,
>This past Saturday evening our ceramics lab flooded. Three feet of
>water
>Suzanne Wolfe, University of Hawai'i
>
Many years ago I used to be a Chief Electrician on ships , I had
experience with flooded motors. Ours were even flooded with salt
water which is worse than muddy water.

First of all, wash out the pedals with plenty of fresh water and let
them dry out. Warm air will aid this. Parts that are rusty need a rub
down with ScotchBrite pads and WD- 40. Lube the moving parts. That
is about all you can do and it will work most of the time on
electrical stuff. It is pretty waterproof but it needs to be clean
and dry. The sooner this is done the better. If the power was on in
the equipment when it got wet there may be more serious damage due to
electrolysis. I once dropped a camera in the ocean in 3 feet of water
and that was the end of it. The battery supplied energy for
electrolysis and it was a mess.

--
From Fred Paget, Marin County, California, USA
fredrick@well.com

pdp1@EARTHLINK.NET on tue 2 nov 04


Hi Fred, Suzanne,



Yahhhhh...

At San Francisco Int'l Airport, 'planes used to overshoot
one of the runways now and then, and the drill, once they
fished 'em out, was to toss all the electronics into 55
Gallon Barrels of "W-D-40"...then, to tidy them up from that
immersion with special solvents. They had very good luck
with that method.

Phil
el ve

----- Original Message -----
From: "Fredrick Paget"
Subject: Re: Wet Wheels


> >Dear Clayarters,
> >This past Saturday evening our ceramics lab flooded.
Three feet of
> >water
> >Suzanne Wolfe, University of Hawai'i
> >
> Many years ago I used to be a Chief Electrician on ships ,
I had
> experience with flooded motors. Ours were even flooded
with salt
> water which is worse than muddy water.
>
> First of all, wash out the pedals with plenty of fresh
water and let
> them dry out. Warm air will aid this. Parts that are rusty
need a rub
> down with ScotchBrite pads and WD- 40. Lube the moving
parts. That
> is about all you can do and it will work most of the time
on
> electrical stuff. It is pretty waterproof but it needs to
be clean
> and dry. The sooner this is done the better. If the power
was on in
> the equipment when it got wet there may be more serious
damage due to
> electrolysis. I once dropped a camera in the ocean in 3
feet of water
> and that was the end of it. The battery supplied energy
for
> electrolysis and it was a mess.
>
> --
> From Fred Paget, Marin County, California, USA
> fredrick@well.com

John Rodgers on tue 2 nov 04


Phil, there was good reason for giving it the WD40 bath.

I love that name, WD 40. How about it's real name ......... Water
Displacement batch #40... at least as the story was told to me. During
the development of some water displacement compounds, batch # 40 was the
one that really worked, thus the name.

Sort of like a friends micro-brew. He ran a micro-brewery at Bird Creek
out of Anchorage along Turnagain Arm. Test batch #55 was the one that
really worked. Had the color, had the flavor ... a very special brew.
So, the name was given .....Old Pale Ale #55, produced exclusively by
Bird Creek Brewery. Very popular local beer for quite a number of years,
until my buddy retired.

WD-40 story is a good one anyway. But the stuff really works.... as a
water displacement agent. But some make the mistake of trying to use it
as a lubricant........ and that it is not. Clean and remove water with
WD-40, then lubricate with a fine machine or penetrating oil. Don't just
leave it, what ever it is, with the WD-40. .Nearly always needs
something else.

Regards,

Jophn Rodgers
Chelsea, AL

pdp1@EARTHLINK.NET wrote:

>Hi Fred, Suzanne,
>
>
>
>Yahhhhh...
>
>At San Francisco Int'l Airport, 'planes used to overshoot
>one of the runways now and then, and the drill, once they
>fished 'em out, was to toss all the electronics into 55
>Gallon Barrels of "W-D-40"...then, to tidy them up from that
>immersion with special solvents. They had very good luck
>with that method.
>
>Phil
>el ve
>
>
>