Pfeiffer, Dan R (Dan) on wed 3 nov 04
I hear in a number of posts about holding temps as a way to help even out
temps in a kiln or for some glaze effect. My question is does not this make
the hot part go to a much high cone while you wait for some other part of
the kiln to get up to the desired cone? or is this just not a concern?
Dan
Arnold Howard on thu 4 nov 04
According to Orton, if you hold the temperature for around an hour, the ware
will reach the next higher cone. The heat distribution will also become more
even.
Sincerely,
Arnold Howard
Paragon Industries, L.P., Mesquite, Texas USA
arnoldhoward@att.net / www.paragonweb.com
From: "Pfeiffer, Dan R (Dan)"
>I hear in a number of posts about holding temps as a way to help even out
> temps in a kiln or for some glaze effect. My question is does not this
> make
> the hot part go to a much high cone while you wait for some other part of
> the kiln to get up to the desired cone? or is this just not a concern?
Pfeiffer, Dan R (Dan) on thu 4 nov 04
Well this is my thought on this although it seem in my kiln to take much
less than a hour. As cones are both time and temp it would seem that any
time you wait to "fix" a temp in one place you are over firing some other
place. What I see is as the temps slowly even out cones are falling
elsewhere. Being new to firing I am being to wonder if it is not more
important to just get to the minimum cone needed to get a glaze to melt in
the coolest part and not worry that other parts will go one of more cones
higher. I have noted that even on the coolest cone shelf after the gas is
off the cones will often drop one cone more just in the time is takes to
cool.
This then leads to a question of what it means to have a kiln rated at ^10.
Does in hurt the brick by waiting longer and going to ^11 even it the temp
is not going up?
Dan
Elkmont Al
>According to Orton, if you hold the temperature for around an hour, the
ware
>will reach the next higher cone. The heat distribution will also become
more
>even.
>Sincerely,
>Arnold Howard
Ron Roy on fri 5 nov 04
Hi Dan,
Maybe a bit - but if that is a problem you can do it other ways - start
firing slow for the leat 100C, soak just before your end cone starts to
bend, drop 10 degrees and then soak - I am thinking for an electric kiln -
are you talking fuel burning?
Fuel burning is different because the hot spots are where the flame goes -
and more complicated because of that - direct flame to the colder spots -
and slow down at the end to let the temp even out - and soaking helps as
well - just start a little before your end temp.
Not easy to give advice about fuel buring kilns - they come in such
different shapes and sizes.
RR
>I hear in a number of posts about holding temps as a way to help even out
>temps in a kiln or for some glaze effect. My question is does not this make
>the hot part go to a much high cone while you wait for some other part of
>the kiln to get up to the desired cone? or is this just not a concern?
>
>Dan
Ron Roy
RR#4
15084 Little Lake Road
Brighton, Ontario
Canada
K0K 1H0
Phone: 613-475-9544
Fax: 613-475-3513
Pfeiffer, Dan R (Dan) on mon 8 nov 04
Hi Dan,
Maybe a bit - but if that is a problem you can do it other ways - start
firing slow for the leat 100C, soak just before your end cone starts to
bend, drop 10 degrees and then soak - I am thinking for an electric kiln -
are you talking fuel burning?
Fuel burning is different because the hot spots are where the flame goes -
and more complicated because of that - direct flame to the colder spots -
and slow down at the end to let the temp even out - and soaking helps as
well - just start a little before your end temp.
Not easy to give advice about fuel buring kilns - they come in such
different shapes and sizes.
RR
>I hear in a number of posts about holding temps as a way to help even out
>temps in a kiln or for some glaze effect. My question is does not this make
>the hot part go to a much high cone while you wait for some other part of
>the kiln to get up to the desired cone? or is this just not a concern?
>
>Dan
Ron Roy
RR#4
15084 Little Lake Road
Brighton, Ontario
Canada
K0K 1H0
Phone: 613-475-9544
Fax: 613-475-3513
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Pfeiffer, Dan R (Dan) on mon 8 nov 04
Ron,
I am firing a LP gas kiln and thanks to the many good ideas from a number
of people on this list I am doing a much better job of getting the temps
even. Saturday's firing I had things down to about a cone difference from
top to bottom with the bottom too hot this time. I now have a good idea what
to do to shift the heat back up to the top. This turns out to be a very fine
adjustment complicated by my pyrometer saying the bottom in colder than the
top. I switched the probes around and it still reads the same but the cones
said otherwise. ??? I guess the bottom one must be in a bad spot to read the
shelf temp. Only happens at the high end of the firing >1000c.
Many thanks to all for you help.
Dan
>Maybe a bit - but if that is a problem you can do it other ways - start
>firing slow for the leat 100C, soak just before your end cone starts to
>bend, drop 10 degrees and then soak - I am thinking for an electric kiln -
>are you talking fuel burning?
>Fuel burning is different because the hot spots are where the flame goes -
>and more complicated because of that - direct flame to the colder spots -
>and slow down at the end to let the temp even out - and soaking helps as
>well - just start a little before your end temp.
>Not easy to give advice about fuel buring kilns - they come in such
>different shapes and sizes.
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