Gail Coverman on tue 16 nov 04
I am preparing for a pit fire and would like to know if anyone has had experience adding mason stain to the terragig. before application and the results I might expect after the firing.
I would also like to know, generally speaking, what suggestions are out there for use of mason stains for how to use, on bisque vs greenware, etc., etc.
With my thanks for any shared experiences,
Gail
Gail
Louis Katz on tue 16 nov 04
Hi Gail,
Gail Busch, my wife uses Tsig with mason stain in her work fired to
cone 02. She mixes in the stain by eye, usually into a ball/kaolin
blend with some frit. The base is ball milled and settled. The frit
seems to help adhesion to her red earthenware bisque. Some colors she
remills after adding the stain, others she doesn't. When she remills
them they are easier to polish. She likes a less lustery surface
sometime. They seem to be relatively WYSIWYG (What you see is what you
get) in terms of color at low temps.
Louis
On Nov 16, 2004, at 4:03 PM, Gail Coverman wrote:
> I am preparing for a pit fire and would like to know if anyone has had
> experience adding mason stain to the terragig. before application and
> the results I might expect after the firing.
>
> I would also like to know, generally speaking, what suggestions are
> out there for use of mason stains for how to use, on bisque vs
> greenware, etc., etc.
>
> With my thanks for any shared experiences,
> Gail
>
>
>
> Gail
>
> _______________________________________________________________________
> _______
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
Louis Katz
WIKI site http://www.tamucc.edu/wiki/Katz/HomePage
Lori Leary on wed 17 nov 04
Hi Louis,
Can you tell me a bit more about using a frit in a terra sig/stain
combination?
I have been ball milling sig mixed with stains with mostly good
results. But, I have had a bit of flaking with higher proportions of
stain when trying for more intense color. Questions: Any particular
frit? How much? Is she ball milling the solution with the frit included?
Thanks in advance,
Lori L.
Mountain Top, PA
Louis Katz wrote:
> Hi Gail,
> Gail Busch, my wife uses Tsig with mason stain in her work fired to
> cone 02. She mixes in the stain by eye, usually into a ball/kaolin
> blend with some frit. The base is ball milled and settled. The frit
> seems to help adhesion to her red earthenware bisque.
Lori Leary on wed 17 nov 04
Gail,
One thing about ball milling terrra sig with commercial
stains: be sure to read the manufacturer's notes (you
can find them in the supplier's catalogs or web sites).
Some stains should not be ball milled. Ican't tell you off
hand which ones, but you can easily do the research for
yourself.
Hope this helps,
Lori L.
Louis Katz on wed 17 nov 04
Here is what I have from Gail's handout. Used with permission here.
----
Busch White Base T-sig for Bisque =C608-=C61
Gold Art or Ball Clay 1800 g
Ferro Frit 3124 200 g
Borax 40 g
Calgon 20 g ( This is old calgon. I would try Sodium =20
Hexametaphosphate 15 grams)
Distilled Water 1 gallon
Terra Sigillata Formulae
Gail Busch
Terra sigillatas, often referred to as t-sigs, are very finely ground =20=
clay slips. Most potters apply t-sigs to bone dry clay. Since I prefer =20=
to apply my t-sigs to bisque ware, I have come up with the following =20
formulae, all of which work on bone dry or bisqued clay. (As a general =20=
rule of thumb, t-sigs made from clays with a high iron content seem to =20=
work well on dry and bisqued clay, while t-sigs made with white clays =20=
will flake off, if not before then certainly after firing.)
All of the following formulae work best with Distilled Water. Hard =20
water makes it hard to make good t- sigs. Ball mill for 6 hours or =20
overnight, then allow to settle for 4 days to 2 weeks. The t-sig will =20=
divide into 3 layers: water on top, to be siphoned off, coarse =20
particles on the bottom, and T-sig in the middle to be decanted and =20
stored. T-sigs can be applied by brushing, dipping, spraying, or =20
pouring. Always use the amount of water specified for best results.
-----
When we came up with this recipe I thought the borax would not help, =20
that it would just goof up the defloculation , that the frit would all =20=
settle out. I thought it was a shot in the dark. It worked the best. =20=
We have only had problems over scummed clay since changing to this. =20
Gail is careful, painstakingly so. She never gets it on very thick.
She has not been producing much lately and there are few images on the =20=
web. She is about to start making work again, hopefully this month.
http://asuartmuseum.asu.edu/crcauction/galaimages/images/S013.jpg
I have enclosed the rest of the handout below.
Attic Red T- Sig =C608-=C61
Red Art 230 g
Calgon 5 g
Distilled Water 1 liter
Red Art gives a t-sig with a dark terracotta, very shiny surface =20
(variation: for a dark red, add 5% red iron oxide)
Weiser Red T-sig
(lighter color, softer glow)
Gold Art 1600
Yellow Iron Oxide 240
Soda Ash 48
Distilled Water 1 gallon
Busch Black T-Sig =C608-=C61
Red Art 920 g
Calgon 20 g
Distilled Water 4 liters
Ball mill and allow to settle, then add oxides and stain. Ball mill =20
again, ready to use immediately.
Cobalt Carbonate 10 g
Copper Carbonate 45 g
Black Stain 10 g
Ball Mill Pebble Clay ( from Michael Cardew's Pioneer Pottery)
China Clay 45
Custer Feldspar 30
Flint 20
Bond Clay 5
Add water to make a plastic clay, and form into balls. Bisque, and fire =20=
to =C610.
Run your ball mill for a few hours with new balls and water alone =20
before using new balls to make t-sig. Note that a ball mill jar should =20=
be about 2/3 full of balls to work efficiently. Jars with too few balls =20=
wear out quickly, too.
Terra Sigillata Formulae
Gail Busch
Terra sigillatas, often referred to as t-sigs, are very finely ground =20=
clay slips. Most potters apply t-sigs to bone dry clay. Since I prefer =20=
to apply my t-sigs to bisque ware, I have come up with the following =20
formulae, all of which work on bone dry or bisqued clay. (As a general =20=
rule of thumb, t-sigs made from clays with a high iron content seem to =20=
work well on dry and bisqued clay, while t-sigs made with white clays =20=
will flake off, if not before then certainly after firing.)
All of the following formulae work best with Distilled Water. Hard =20
water makes it hard to make good t- sigs. Ball mill for 6 hours or =20
overnight, then allow to settle for 4 days to 2 weeks. The t-sig will =20=
divide into 3 layers: water on top, to be siphoned off, coarse =20
particles on the bottom, and T-sig in the middle to be decanted and =20
stored. T-sigs can be applied by brushing, dipping, spraying, or =20
pouring. Always use the amount of water specified for best results.
On Nov 17, 2004, at 6:40 AM, Lori Leary wrote:
> Hi Louis,
> Can you tell me a bit more about using a frit in a terra sig/stain
> combination?
> I have been ball milling sig mixed with stains with mostly good
> results. But, I have had a bit of flaking with higher proportions of
> stain when trying for more intense color. Questions: Any particular
> frit? How much? Is she ball milling the solution with the frit =20
> included?
> Thanks in advance,
> Lori L.
> Mountain Top, PA
>
>
> Louis Katz wrote:
>
>> Hi Gail,
>> Gail Busch, my wife uses Tsig with mason stain in her work fired to
>> cone 02. She mixes in the stain by eye, usually into a ball/kaolin
>> blend with some frit. The base is ball milled and settled. The frit
>> seems to help adhesion to her red earthenware bisque.
>
> =
_______________________________________________________________________=20=
> _______
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at =20
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
http://falcon.tamucc.edu/~lkatz/LK/index.htm
Ivor and Olive Lewis on thu 18 nov 04
Dear Lori,
I would suspect it those that contain Cadmium, Selenium and those that
carry the term ":Encapsulated " on the label are prime examples that
should be used as they come from the packet.
Best regards,
Ivor Lewis.
Redhill,
S. Australia.
sincultura13 on thu 18 nov 04
Louis Katz wrote:
"my wife uses Tsig with mason stain in her work fired to
cone 02".
Is there a website where I can check some picks? Sounds
interesting...
I haven't taken the glaze class yet, but was thinking about making
some experiments with clear dipping glaze and mason stains to see if
I can save some money... Comercial glazes are only available in
small 4oz containers for the most part in my area.
thanks
Sincultura
--- In clayart@yahoogroups.com, Louis Katz wrote:
> Hi Gail,
> Gail Busch, my wife uses Tsig with mason stain in her work fired to
> cone 02. She mixes in the stain by eye, usually into a ball/kaolin
> blend with some frit. The base is ball milled and settled. The frit
> seems to help adhesion to her red earthenware bisque. Some colors
she
> remills after adding the stain, others she doesn't. When she
remills
> them they are easier to polish. She likes a less lustery surface
> sometime. They seem to be relatively WYSIWYG (What you see is what
you
> get) in terms of color at low temps.
> Louis
>
> On Nov 16, 2004, at 4:03 PM, Gail Coverman wrote:
>
> > I am preparing for a pit fire and would like to know if anyone
has had
> > experience adding mason stain to the terragig. before
application and
> > the results I might expect after the firing.
> >
> > I would also like to know, generally speaking, what suggestions
are
> > out there for use of mason stains for how to use, on bisque vs
> > greenware, etc., etc.
> >
> > With my thanks for any shared experiences,
> > Gail
> >
> >
> >
> > Gail
> >
> >
_____________________________________________________________________
__
> > _______
> > Send postings to clayart@l...
> >
> > You may look at the archives for the list or change your
subscription
> > settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> >
> > Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> > melpots@p...
> >
> >
> Louis Katz
> WIKI site http://www.tamucc.edu/wiki/Katz/HomePage
>
>
_____________________________________________________________________
_________
> Send postings to clayart@l...
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your
subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@p...
Russel Fouts on fri 19 nov 04
To the Lovely Lori Leary!
>> One thing about ball milling terrra sig with commercial stains: be sure
to read the manufacturer's notes (you can find them in the supplier's
catalogs or web sites). Some stains should not be ball milled. Ican't
tell you off hand which ones, but you can easily do the research for
yourself. <<
Probably the inclusion stains shouldn't be ball milled.
Russel
Russel Fouts
Mes Potes & Mes Pots
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