Kate Johnson on sun 21 nov 04
> Kate you sound like you are doing just fine, my
> suggestions may be on the cautious side ;-)
We shall see! First, I'll get it good and dry--then, tell Keith to please
fire it slooooowwwwly. Then I'll report.
>
> I recommended starting out with a different shape for
> a couple of reasons. First if a green platter is even
> unintentionally handled unevenly after being rewetted
> with glaze, which is easy to do, it will crack.
I've not had problems with them cracking (not that I've made that many,
probably 8-10 now) but I HAVE had them warp from handling them too soon.
That's what I expect to happen with this one, and why it's sort of an
experiment. I made the basic shape at school, where it dried slowly
under a layer of plastic for two weeks. Decided with the Thanksgiving
holiday falling on class night, it would be another two weeks before I could
mess with it, so I took it home. (Usually I make them at home, but I was
putzing around during class a couple of weeks ago.) It was leather hard,
but...when I put a couple of layers of white slip on it, it softened back up
and THAT is when I shouldn't have messed with it. It bowed a bit. So right
then I decided what the heck, let's experiment, it's gonna get wonky
anyway.
Well,
> anything will, but a platter is easy to mishandle
> because of how its held & moved. The second reason is
> because a platter is more likely to be heated unevenly
> in the kiln, the sides heat up before the base, as a
> recent Clayart thread discussed and without the
> strength of having been bisqued this is even more
> chancy.
Ah. I can see that!
>
> Do you use slabs or coils or a different technique to
> build your beakers?
I used to just do pinch pots that I formed differently, paddling the sides
straight and trimming the upper edge, but my thumbs aren't really long
enough for very deep ones--lots of twisting and manipulating to make a
larger pinch pot beaker! (I'm one of the 7" handspan kids, for those who
are measuring.)
So for a change I used slabs, but I have to admit I've only made two that
way. I'm assuming I'd get faster, but I get all into the subtleties...I
like them to bulge out a bit near the base, then subtly come back in to an
almost indiscernable waist, then a very very slight belling out near the
lip. Then I sort of paddle the base into shape. I really liked the way
those two turned out--they're waiting to be glaze fired this week! The
shape is barely noticable, but I like it a lot. A tad time consuming, but
hey...(I am NEVER going to be one of the 6-minute mug-makers at this rate,
however, even without the drive to get the clay, carry it in the house,
wedge it, etc. protocols....)
Not that a platter's ALL that fast, but faster than my beakers anyway...
By the way, I also made a largish beanpot pipkin with a combination of coil
and slab work, which I hadn't tried before. I really like it, but Lord love
a duck! NO one could afford to pay me for 8-10 hours + of work on that
thing, just to get it to the point where I could set it aside to dry...oy.
I may HAVE to remain a hobby potter, 'cause finding my market is a...well,
something else my dad used to say.
Best--
Kate
Kate Johnson on sun 21 nov 04
In my ongoing quest to figure out the mysteries of 18th C. slip-decorated
redware using 21st C. materials and techniques (i.e., no lead glazes,
electric rather than woodfired kiln...), I'm going to try a raw glazed
platter, as Rudy has talked about (thanks, Rudy!)
So at this point--red earthenware clay on this one, white slip coated on the
inside, Albany slip decoration this time, and a layer of transparent glaze
with ochre in it, all at greenware stage.
It occurs to me that I'm not sure how to tell my buddy Keith how to FIRE it,
however. At the normal red earthenware cone (matures at ^06-2), at the
glaze cone, which says ^06, what? Sounds as though it should work all
right, firing at approximately ^06 or a bit higher.
I figure it will have to be flat, so the glaze won't run off--I don't want
to hurt any of the other people's work, or the kiln itself--this sounds too
simple, and it's making me nervous!
Any advice for the determined claynewbie?
Regards,
Kate Johnson
Graphics/Fine Arts
http://www.cathyjohnson.info/
http://www.epsi.net/graphic/
http://www.ebsqart.com/Artists/cmd_1494_profile.htm
Wood Jeanne on sun 21 nov 04
Hi Kate,
What I recommend is experimenting with a different
shape for your first raw clay firing experiment... say
a beaker or simple vase shape and see how that turns
out before the platter. I've found platters are the
most "challenging" shape to raw glaze.
Other suggestions are to make sure the raw glazed item
is *completely* dry before having it fired, and ask
your friend Keith to fire much slower than usual.
Good luck on your quest!!
Jeanne W.
--- Kate Johnson wrote:
> In my ongoing quest to figure out the mysteries of
> 18th C. slip-decorated
> redware using 21st C. materials and techniques
> (i.e., no lead glazes,
> electric rather than woodfired kiln...), I'm going
> to try a raw glazed
> platter, as Rudy has talked about (thanks, Rudy!)
>
> So at this point--red earthenware clay on this one,
> white slip coated on the
> inside, Albany slip decoration this time, and a
> layer of transparent glaze
> with ochre in it, all at greenware stage.
>
> It occurs to me that I'm not sure how to tell my
> buddy Keith how to FIRE it,
> however. At the normal red earthenware cone
> (matures at ^06-2), at the
> glaze cone, which says ^06, what? Sounds as though
> it should work all
> right, firing at approximately ^06 or a bit higher.
>
> I figure it will have to be flat, so the glaze won't
> run off--I don't want
> to hurt any of the other people's work, or the kiln
> itself--this sounds too
> simple, and it's making me nervous!
>
> Any advice for the determined claynewbie?
>
>
> Regards,
> Kate Johnson
> Graphics/Fine Arts
> http://www.cathyjohnson.info/
> http://www.epsi.net/graphic/
> http://www.ebsqart.com/Artists/cmd_1494_profile.htm
>
>
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piedpotterhamelin@COMCAST.NET on sun 21 nov 04
Kate
Fire as you would any greenware burning. At the normal red earthenware cone (matures at ^06-2), at the
> glaze cone, which says ^06, what? Sounds as though it should work all
> right, firing at approximately ^06 or a bit higher.
I don't understand this part...the maturing temp has to do with your glaze range not the clay range
Rick
--
"Many a wiser men than I hath
gone to pot." 1649
-------------- Original message --------------
> In my ongoing quest to figure out the mysteries of 18th C. slip-decorated
> redware using 21st C. materials and techniques (i.e., no lead glazes,
> electric rather than woodfired kiln...), I'm going to try a raw glazed
> platter, as Rudy has talked about (thanks, Rudy!)
>
> So at this point--red earthenware clay on this one, white slip coated on the
> inside, Albany slip decoration this time, and a layer of transparent glaze
> with ochre in it, all at greenware stage.
>
> It occurs to me that I'm not sure how to tell my buddy Keith how to FIRE it,
> however. At the normal red earthenware cone (matures at ^06-2), at the
> glaze cone, which says ^06, what? Sounds as though it should work all
> right, firing at approximately ^06 or a bit higher.
>
> I figure it will have to be flat, so the glaze won't run off--I don't want
> to hurt any of the other people's work, or the kiln itself--this sounds too
> simple, and it's making me nervous!
>
> Any advice for the determined claynewbie?
>
>
> Regards,
> Kate Johnson
> Graphics/Fine Arts
> http://www.cathyjohnson.info/
> http://www.epsi.net/graphic/
> http://www.ebsqart.com/Artists/cmd_1494_profile.htm
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
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>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
Kate Johnson on sun 21 nov 04
Hi, Jeanne--thanks for the suggestion...ooops, too late. The platter is
already made, decorated, glazed and drying.
What I recommend is experimenting with a different
> shape for your first raw clay firing experiment... say
> a beaker or simple vase shape and see how that turns
> out before the platter. I've found platters are the
> most "challenging" shape to raw glaze.
Can you tell me why? What happened when you did it? Torquing, running,
other? (I find platters a bit tricky no matter how I do them--I've got a
very nice Rocking Platter just out of the kiln last week!)
By the way, beakers and vases are much harder for me to build since I
handbuild them--do you know something I don't? I could make a pinch pot
mug, but even those take longer than platters...
> Other suggestions are to make sure the raw glazed item
> is *completely* dry before having it fired,
OH yeah, that's one thing I always do, raw glazed or not! I had some stuff
fly apart a few years ago, so I'm I real nut about dry dry DRY.
and ask
> your friend Keith to fire much slower than usual.
Will do, and thanks! (SOMEday I'll have my own kiln...but right know the
floor's so spongy in that room that I'm looking at major repair work to the
room itself, I'm afraid...)
> Good luck on your quest!!
MANY thanks, and for any and all suggestions!
Best--
Kate
Wood Jeanne on sun 21 nov 04
Kate you sound like you are doing just fine, my
suggestions may be on the cautious side ;-)
I recommended starting out with a different shape for
a couple of reasons. First if a green platter is even
unintentionally handled unevenly after being rewetted
with glaze, which is easy to do, it will crack. Well,
anything will, but a platter is easy to mishandle
because of how its held & moved. The second reason is
because a platter is more likely to be heated unevenly
in the kiln, the sides heat up before the base, as a
recent Clayart thread discussed and without the
strength of having been bisqued this is even more
chancy.
Do you use slabs or coils or a different technique to
build your beakers?
Regards,
Jeanne W.
--- Kate Johnson wrote:
> Hi, Jeanne--thanks for the suggestion...ooops, too
> late. The platter is
> already made, decorated, glazed and drying.
>
> What I recommend is experimenting with a different
> > shape for your first raw clay firing experiment...
> say
> > a beaker or simple vase shape and see how that
> turns
> > out before the platter. I've found platters are
> the
> > most "challenging" shape to raw glaze.
>
> Can you tell me why? What happened when you did it?
> Torquing, running,
> other? (I find platters a bit tricky no matter how
> I do them--I've got a
> very nice Rocking Platter just out of the kiln last
> week!)
>
> By the way, beakers and vases are much harder for me
> to build since I
> handbuild them--do you know something I don't? I
> could make a pinch pot
> mug, but even those take longer than platters...
>
> > Other suggestions are to make sure the raw glazed
> item
> > is *completely* dry before having it fired,
>
> OH yeah, that's one thing I always do, raw glazed or
> not! I had some stuff
> fly apart a few years ago, so I'm I real nut about
> dry dry DRY.
>
>
> and ask
> > your friend Keith to fire much slower than usual.
>
> Will do, and thanks! (SOMEday I'll have my own
> kiln...but right know the
> floor's so spongy in that room that I'm looking at
> major repair work to the
> room itself, I'm afraid...)
>
> > Good luck on your quest!!
>
> MANY thanks, and for any and all suggestions!
>
> Best--
> Kate
>
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be
> reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
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