Bob Hanlin on sun 21 nov 04
In my experience, when I don't go over the bottom (inside) to make sure that the clay is compressed I get those kinds of cracks. I do that now as a matter of opening and establishing a floor. It's become second nature.
Bob
Ingeborg Foco wrote:
Ken ,
Please share your secret please! I often lose pieces while drying and then
some after bisque. I've pretty much tried everything. It seems to be a hit
and miss and I don't know what is causing the cracks.
Ingeborg
the Potter's Workshop & Gallery
P.O. Box 510
3058 Stringfellow Road
St. James City, Florida 33956
239-283-2775
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Russell"
To:
Sent: Sunday, November 21, 2004 4:07 PM
Subject: S- Cracks
> You know, you don't have to put up with s-cracks if you don't want.
> I'll be happy to share with anyone how I've virtually eliminated them,
> but e-mail me because my answer might seem like an ad. It's not. I
> make no money from my solution, but it will probably sound like it.
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
______________________________________________________________________________
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Ken Russell on sun 21 nov 04
You know, you don't have to put up with s-cracks if you don't want.
I'll be happy to share with anyone how I've virtually eliminated them,
but e-mail me because my answer might seem like an ad. It's not. I
make no money from my solution, but it will probably sound like it.
Carol Ross on sun 21 nov 04
Ken, please share with me!
Thanks,
Carol
On Nov 21, 2004, at 3:07 PM, Ken Russell wrote:
> You know, you don't have to put up with s-cracks if you don't want.
> I'll be happy to share with anyone how I've virtually eliminated them,
> but e-mail me because my answer might seem like an ad. It's not. I
> make no money from my solution, but it will probably sound like it.
>
> _______________________________________________________________________
> _______
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
Ingeborg Foco on sun 21 nov 04
Ken ,
Please share your secret please! I often lose pieces while drying and then
some after bisque. I've pretty much tried everything. It seems to be a hit
and miss and I don't know what is causing the cracks.
Ingeborg
the Potter's Workshop & Gallery
P.O. Box 510
3058 Stringfellow Road
St. James City, Florida 33956
239-283-2775
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Russell"
To:
Sent: Sunday, November 21, 2004 4:07 PM
Subject: S- Cracks
> You know, you don't have to put up with s-cracks if you don't want.
> I'll be happy to share with anyone how I've virtually eliminated them,
> but e-mail me because my answer might seem like an ad. It's not. I
> make no money from my solution, but it will probably sound like it.
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
Jennifer Boyer on mon 22 nov 04
We all have different experiences with this because we use such
different clay bodies.
I have skin that can only tolerate smooth clay with no coarse grog, so
have to battle S-cracks even with good throwing technique.
For me it's easier to avoid S-cracks in pots thrown on bats since you
can compress the bottom well and avoid throwing the bottom too thick.
I also keep rims of wide pots covered to equalize drying until I can
flip them upside down in preparation for trimming. I'm always sure to
compress the bottom with a rib after trimming.
But throwing off the hump is a different story: The solution for me is
to use pieces of Sheetrock or Hardy backer board as my ware boards.
These are absorbent and dry the bottoms of the pots quickly. Fewer
S-cracks, as long as the bottom isn't too thick when I'm done trimming.
As far as I can tell, bottom thickness is always the problem if you
have S-cracks. If the bottom is too thick the pots will want to crack
even if you do compress. So it's good to feel the bottom thickness
before you decide that your trimming is complete. It could be that your
"drum beat" tapping to test for thickness isn't telling you the whole
story....
NO snickering allowed from you potters with groggy claybodies: you
have no idea...... ;-)
Take Care
Jennifer
> In my experience, when I don't go over the bottom (inside) to make
> sure that the clay is compressed I get those kinds of cracks. I do
> that now as a matter of opening and establishing a floor. It's become
> second nature.
>
> Bob
>
> Ingeborg Foco wrote:
> Ken ,
>
> Please share your secret please! I often lose pieces while drying and
> then
> some after bisque. I've pretty much tried everything. It seems to be a
> hit
> and miss and I don't know what is causing the cracks.
>
>
************************
Jennifer Boyer
Thistle Hill Pottery
Montpelier, VT
http://thistlehillpottery.com
Donna Nicosia on mon 22 nov 04
When I worked with clay in my local college, I got a large amount of "S"
cracks no matter what I did. And believe me, I tried everything. After
starting my studio in my home, I realized "wow, no more "S" cracks.
During one of my reading marathons, I found a small phrase about "S"
cracks. It stated that ," an uneven drying time temp. could cause these
occurrences." So I decided to try an experiment . My studio is room
temp. and my basement is cooler. So, some of my pieces were left in the
studio to dry and others were taken to the basement during the last half
of the drying cycle. Almost every piece where the temp. was altered
during the drying time, developed an "S" crack. Well, now I can tell you
where I dry my pieces and never an "S" crack again. And when I thought
back to the college, the drying room door was constantly being opened
and closed and sometimes left open for periods of time which would cause
a change in temp. during drying time as it was near the outside door.
Hope this helps some of you. Donna
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Jennifer
Boyer
Sent: Monday, November 22, 2004 7:48 AM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: S- Cracks
We all have different experiences with this because we use such
different clay bodies.
I have skin that can only tolerate smooth clay with no coarse grog, so
have to battle S-cracks even with good throwing technique.
For me it's easier to avoid S-cracks in pots thrown on bats since you
can compress the bottom well and avoid throwing the bottom too thick.
I also keep rims of wide pots covered to equalize drying until I can
flip them upside down in preparation for trimming. I'm always sure to
compress the bottom with a rib after trimming.
But throwing off the hump is a different story: The solution for me is
to use pieces of Sheetrock or Hardy backer board as my ware boards.
These are absorbent and dry the bottoms of the pots quickly. Fewer
S-cracks, as long as the bottom isn't too thick when I'm done trimming.
As far as I can tell, bottom thickness is always the problem if you
have S-cracks. If the bottom is too thick the pots will want to crack
even if you do compress. So it's good to feel the bottom thickness
before you decide that your trimming is complete. It could be that your
"drum beat" tapping to test for thickness isn't telling you the whole
story....
NO snickering allowed from you potters with groggy claybodies: you
have no idea...... ;-)
Take Care
Jennifer
> In my experience, when I don't go over the bottom (inside) to make
> sure that the clay is compressed I get those kinds of cracks. I do
> that now as a matter of opening and establishing a floor. It's become
> second nature.
>
> Bob
>
> Ingeborg Foco wrote:
> Ken ,
>
> Please share your secret please! I often lose pieces while drying and
> then
> some after bisque. I've pretty much tried everything. It seems to be a
> hit
> and miss and I don't know what is causing the cracks.
>
>
************************
Jennifer Boyer
Thistle Hill Pottery
Montpelier, VT
http://thistlehillpottery.com
________________________________________________________________________
______
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
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melpots@pclink.com.
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claybair on mon 22 nov 04
I do compress the inside of my pots.
After trimming the foot ring I also use
a soft rib to compress the bottom
interior and foot ring. I don't remember the
name of these new ribs... they come in various
bright colors, shapes and stiffness.
I haven't had any s-cracks since
then and I use cranky B-Mix!
If you like a finished look it makes
the foot ring look very nice and minimizes
sanding/grinding.
I now place a sheet of newsprint over my
hardibacker ware boards and the bottoms
are not imprinted with errant bits of hard clay
or the hardibacker rough surface.
Gayle Bair
Bainbridge Island, WA
http://claybair.com
-----Original Message-----
From:Jennifer Boyer
We all have different experiences with this because we use such
different clay bodies.
I have skin that can only tolerate smooth clay with no coarse grog, so
have to battle S-cracks even with good throwing technique.
For me it's easier to avoid S-cracks in pots thrown on bats since you
can compress the bottom well and avoid throwing the bottom too thick.
I also keep rims of wide pots covered to equalize drying until I can
flip them upside down in preparation for trimming. I'm always sure to
compress the bottom with a rib after trimming.
But throwing off the hump is a different story: The solution for me is
to use pieces of Sheetrock or Hardy backer board as my ware boards.
These are absorbent and dry the bottoms of the pots quickly. Fewer
S-cracks, as long as the bottom isn't too thick when I'm done trimming.
As far as I can tell, bottom thickness is always the problem if you
have S-cracks. If the bottom is too thick the pots will want to crack
even if you do compress. So it's good to feel the bottom thickness
before you decide that your trimming is complete. It could be that your
"drum beat" tapping to test for thickness isn't telling you the whole
story....
NO snickering allowed from you potters with groggy claybodies: you
have no idea...... ;-)
Take Care
Jennifer
> In my experience, when I don't go over the bottom (inside) to make
> sure that the clay is compressed I get those kinds of cracks. I do
> that now as a matter of opening and establishing a floor. It's become
> second nature.
>
> Bob
>
> Ingeborg Foco wrote:
> Ken ,
>
> Please share your secret please! I often lose pieces while drying and
> then
> some after bisque. I've pretty much tried everything. It seems to be a
> hit
> and miss and I don't know what is causing the cracks.
>
>
************************
Jennifer Boyer
Thistle Hill Pottery
Montpelier, VT
Joseph Herbert on sat 15 oct 05
Hello,
I have worked many places in the country using the various clay bodies that
are available in these places. I am currently in Los Alamos, NM using B mix
supplied through Santa Fe Clay. I have used other clays at the Clay Studio
in Philadelphia, Trinity Clays when working in Dallas, Standard clays,
Highwater clays, clays from the Ceramic store in Houston, Armadillo clays
from Austin, Lots of different clays. I rarely have had trouble with
S-cracks, but there was this one time. I was working at a museum in Racine,
Wisconsin using a Raku clay supplied by the museum. Every thing I made had
S-cracks. My method of throwing has stayed fairly constant over the years
and doesn't involve any obsessive compression of the bottom, just enough to
make it smooth.
My belief, and much of the discussions of S-cracks sounds like a discussion
about religion, is that the conjunction of too much water on the bottom of a
pot for too long a time and a clay body that is especially absorbent leads
to S-cracks. I feel like the bottom gets loaded up with extra water that
seriously reduces the volume of the clay in that area when it evaporates.
The greater amount of shrinkage of the thin, mechanically weak bottom, leads
to the characteristic contraction crack.
If I were having a problem with S-cracks, the thing I would do (after taking
care to see that the bottom of pots wasn't allowed to get soppy) is change
throwing bodies.
Joseph Herbert
steve graber on sun 16 oct 05
joseph, your comment: "S-cracks sounds like a discussion about religion" rings true with me. i didn't go to school for pottery. i went for mechanical engineering instead. pottery has been a serious hobby of mine for 20 years. i taught an adult ed city program for some 8 or 9 years. and i've run a few tons of clay thru my hands...
thru the years i have seen that much of what occurs in pottery & pottery discussions are carried on by word of mouth & anecdotal evidence of a cause & affect. seldom does a discussion seem to reach the root cause that i'm used to achieving in another industry. the "compression of the clay" used to *fix* the S crack zone in other industries is called surface hardening. it crushes the surface region & gets smoother (burnishing is a surface hardening). but the foundation of the material is not affected. ~ the portion further inside from the surface affected by that *compression*. this *fix* advise means that if a compression of the area (surface hardening) *fixes* an S crack it still must be there under that surface hardened spot.
metal castings can go thru burnishing for improved strength but a poor casting pore still yields a bad part when the fundemental material is flawed. to fix bad castings you have to go back to the casting methods themselves - or the casting mold. you mention an observation of the clay bodies. there might be somthing there.
the question i raise is how it gets there in the first place? i mention incomplete centering because i never see this on small pots (under 7 pounds) and i know i don't center the 18 pounders as completely as these smaller pots. you mention the possibility of too much water accumulating. ~ or the basic mix of the clay body itself. you're also braking convention by such herasy! someone else said drying. that is also something to beconsidered.
i haven't seen it occur in years now. possibly my supplier is mixing clay into a better condition? possibly where it's more often seen it includes pug mill clay which may be missing something?
but i still can't accept simply compressing the area to fix the flaw. while it might become hidden it's there from some other mechanics.
see ya
steve
Joseph Herbert wrote:
Hello,
I have worked many places in the country using the various clay bodies that
are available in these places. I am currently in Los Alamos, NM using B mix
supplied through Santa Fe Clay. I have used other clays at the Clay Studio
in Philadelphia, Trinity Clays when working in Dallas, Standard clays,
Highwater clays, clays from the Ceramic store in Houston, Armadill clays
from Austin, Lots of different clays. I rarely have had trouble with
S-cracks, but there was this one time. I was working at a museum in Racine,
Wisconsin using a Raku clay supplied by the museum. Every thing I made had
S-cracks. My method of throwing has stayed fairly constant over the years
and doesn't involve any obsessive compression of the bottom, just enough to
make it smooth.
My belief, and much of the discussions of S-cracks sounds like a discussion
about religion, is that the conjunction of too much water on the bottom of a
pot for too long a time and a clay body that is especially absorbent leads
to S-cracks. I feel like the bottom gets loaded up with extra water that
seriously reduces the volume of the clay in that area when it evaporates.
The greater amount of shrinkage of the thin, mechanically weak bottom, leads
to the characteristic contraction crack.
If I were having a problem with S-cracks, the thing I would do (after taking
care to see that the bottom of pots wasn't allowed to get soppy) is change
throwing bodies.
Joseph Herbert
______________________________________________________________________________
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
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John Hesselberth on sun 16 oct 05
Hi Joseph,
Your experience matches mine. I had two Cone 6 stoneware bodies side by
side a few years back. One gave me excessive S-cracks; the other very,
very few. About the same time a visited a community studio and they
were using the S-cracking clay body and having large numbers of
S-cracks. I suggested they switch bodies to the same one I had success
with. They called me back a few weeks later to tell me their S-crack
problem had disappeared with the new body. Some bodies are simply more
prone to S-cracking.
I also believe excess water in the bottom is a contributing factor,
although that may be because it makes it more difficult to compress.
Like you I am not obsessive about compressing and have negligible
S-cracks by keeping the bottom sponged out and using a clay body that
is not prone to S-crack.
Regards,
John
On Oct 16, 2005, at 1:49 AM, Joseph Herbert wrote:
> My belief, and much of the discussions of S-cracks sounds like a
> discussion
> about religion, is that the conjunction of too much water on the
> bottom of a
> pot for too long a time and a clay body that is especially absorbent
> leads
> to S-cracks. I feel like the bottom gets loaded up with extra water
> that
> seriously reduces the volume of the clay in that area when it
> evaporates.
> The greater amount of shrinkage of the thin, mechanically weak bottom,
> leads
> to the characteristic contraction crack.
>
> If I were having a problem with S-cracks, the thing I would do (after
> taking
> care to see that the bottom of pots wasn't allowed to get soppy) is
> change
> throwing bodies.
John Hesselberth
http://www.frogpondpottery.com
http://www.masteringglazes.com
Michael Wendt on sun 16 oct 05
Steve,
Clay has some properties that make it prone to "S" cracks that have to be
considered from an engineering standpoint.
First, it is not a homogeneous material but a mixture of several different
materials and water. Air is also present and I believe these minute voids
filled with air serve as nucleation points for "S" cracking. When a fluid is
subjected to high shearing forces (like a propeller for example) cavities
that are actually a vacuum form at the back side of the propeller. In water,
they close naturally. Clay is too stiff for cavitation voids to close on
their own. Clay being centered is subjected to substantial shear and if the
shear is high enough, it tears the clay internally displaying the classic
"S" crack. Bottom compression in this case really is compression and
actually can reconsolidate and close the tears completely.
Less air in a clay means less drying cracking.
I base this assertion on the fact that we use a high vacuum ribbon deairing
machine to finish our clay bodies. Clay "S" cracking in very soft, plastic
bodies declines as the duration of deairing is increased. It can be
virtually eliminated if enough air is removed from the clay leading me to
conclude that microscopic voids may be at the root of many clay cracking
issues since a void represents a nucleation point.
This would also explain spotty commercial clay performance. Some pugs of the
clay may be better deaired than other pugs.
Steve Graber wrote:
"but the foundation of the material is not affected. ~ the portion further
inside from the surface affected by that *compression*. this *fix* advise
means that if a compression of the area (surface hardening) *fixes* an S
crack it still must be there under that surface hardened spot. metal
castings can go thru burnishing for improved strength but a poor casting
pore still yields a bad part when the fundemental material is flawed. to
fix bad castings you have to go back to the casting methods themselves - or
the casting mold. you mention an observation of the clay bodies. there
might be somthing there."
Regards,
Michael Wendt
Wendt Pottery
2729 Clearwater Ave
Lewiston, Idaho 83501
USA
wendtpot@lewiston.com
www.wendtpottery.com
William & Susan Schran User on sun 16 oct 05
On 10/16/05 10:48 AM, "John Hesselberth" wrote:
> Some bodies are simply more
> prone to S-cracking.
What constituents of the clay body might make more prone to "S" cracks?
Too much small particle clays? Ball clays?
Too much fireclay?
Jeff Zamek, in the latest issue of "Ceramic Industry" wrote an article:
"Stoneware Clay Body Forumlas, The Perfect Body"
He writes about the Zam Super Body Formula, ^6-10
Hawthorn Fireclay - 15parts
Lincoln Fireclay - 10parts
Goldart Stoneware - 40parts
Zamek Ball Clay - 15parts
Silica 220m - 10parts
Custer Spar - 7parts
Redart - 3parts
Grog 48m - 8parts
He provides the recipe with reasons for each part.
He writes that a mix of large & small particle clays are needed to
mechanically interlock the clay platelets.
--
William "Bill" Schran
Fredericksburg, Virginia
Ivor and Olive Lewis on mon 17 oct 05
Dear Michael Wendt=20
I think you are on the money with your cavitation and consolidation =
proposal. Faults will be more prevalent in clay that has a lower =
proportion of water. Clay that has been inadequately blended will also =
suffer.
Thanks for your contribution to the thread.
Best regards,
Ivor
Ron Roy on tue 18 oct 05
Hi Bill,
It's a good question and I do think a good distribution of particle sizes
is always a good goal.
I can also say that too much or too little wet to dry shrinkage plays a
role - there is an ideal shrinkage for a throwing body.
As for the Zam body - horse feathers - for starters there is no such thing
as a properly vitrified body that covers that range of maturing
temperatures - and in this case does he mean cone 6 oxidation to cone 10
reduction - it's just silly.
His idea body is going to have all kinds of cristobalite at cone 10
reduction to boot.
I do agree with using many different clays in a body - not only for
particle size distribution but also to minimize the chance of any one clay
affecting the overall body if it varies from the mine.
I would always say - no more than 30% of any one clay - in this case there
is 40% Gold Art. Gold Art is among the most variable clays around - I would
certainly not recommend it except in small amounts.
Anyone who has tested raw materials would know which clays are the most
variable - and anyone who would like long term reliability would do well to
understand which materials are the most reliable.
RR
>What constituents of the clay body might make more prone to "S" cracks?
>
>Too much small particle clays? Ball clays?
>
>Too much fireclay?
>
>Jeff Zamek, in the latest issue of "Ceramic Industry" wrote an article:
>"Stoneware Clay Body Forumlas, The Perfect Body"
>He writes about the Zam Super Body Formula, ^6-10
>Hawthorn Fireclay - 15parts
>Lincoln Fireclay - 10parts
>Goldart Stoneware - 40parts
>Zamek Ball Clay - 15parts
>Silica 220m - 10parts
>Custer Spar - 7parts
>Redart - 3parts
>Grog 48m - 8parts
>
>He provides the recipe with reasons for each part.
>He writes that a mix of large & small particle clays are needed to
>mechanically interlock the clay platelets.
Ron Roy
RR#4
15084 Little Lake Road
Brighton, Ontario
Canada
K0K 1H0
Phone: 613-475-9544
Fax: 613-475-3513
Malcolm Schosha on thu 27 oct 05
--- In clayart@yahoogroups.com, John Hesselberth wrote:
>
> Hi Joseph,
>
> Your experience matches mine. I had two Cone 6 stoneware bodies
side by
> side a few years back. One gave me excessive S-cracks; the other
very,
> very few. About the same time a visited a community studio and they
> were using the S-cracking clay body and having large numbers of
> S-cracks. I suggested they switch bodies to the same one I had
success
> with. They called me back a few weeks later to tell me their S-crack
> problem had disappeared with the new body. Some bodies are simply
more
> prone to S-cracking.
>
> I also believe excess water in the bottom is a contributing factor,
> although that may be because it makes it more difficult to compress.
> Like you I am not obsessive about compressing and have negligible
> S-cracks by keeping the bottom sponged out and using a clay body
that
> is not prone to S-crack.
>
> Regards,
>
> John
>
........................
I am sure that some clays are more prone to S-cracking than others,
but I have thrown with dozens of clays and never had a problem with
such cracks because I am careful to compress the clay at the bottom
as I open the ball. This can be done in one motion, although going
back a second time to further compress the clay is helpful
(particularly if the clay is pugged) and it does not take long.
For those who throw off the hump, compressing the clay in the foot is
not possible, and S-cracking will be difficult to avoid completely. I
realize that throwing off the hump was a highly prized technique
recommended by Leach, but in Italy (where I learned) throwing off the
hump is looked down on as a way to throw large quantities of low
quality pots. I found this out after reading Leach's book, when I
asked a potter I worked with (a great thrower, who was in his late
60s at he time) if he ever threw that way. I was surprised that the
question pissed him off so bad...you would have thought from his
angry reaction that I had asked him if he ever considered having sex
with his daughter, or something else equally insulting. I guess to
him it was a pretty serious insult.
You are quite right that water standing in the bottom of the pot can
be a problem that produces S-cracking too. The best approach, I
think, is to reduce the amount of water used until reaching the point
where water does not accumulate at the bottom. With some practice and
attention this can be done.
Be well.
Malcolm Schosha
Steve Slatin on thu 27 oct 05
Malcolm, Malcolm, Malcolm --
Lots of us compress the clay in the foot by
compressing the bottom of the pot when throwing off
the hump (especially so when throwing rounded
bottoms). This is how people who pretty much always
throw off the hump avoid S-cracks in our work. (I
keep trying to switch to using bats, but I find that I
get so many more cracks in the bottoms that -- without
switching clays -- I just go back to throwing an
entire (small) pug at a sitting as a corrective
measure).
I don't wish to reopen the grain issue, which just
died down, but if you think about any reasonable model
of pressure acting on a fluid substance, the
Archimedes principle and Pascal's principle of fluid
(as I recall) pressure govern. It may take more
pressure to compress equally if there's a greater
volume of clay below the point where the pressure is
placed (as is the case in throwing off the hump) but
there is no inherent difference in compressing qua
compressing.
Because Archimedes part of the "Classic Tradition" I
presume you will favor that part of the explanation.
And for those who wish to dispute endlessly about
quantum theory and the scientific method, with just a
moment's hunting I found Pascal-ism worth recalling --
"To show that a hypothesis is evident, it does not
suffice that all phenomena follow from it; instead, if
it leads to something contrary to a single one of the
phenomena, that suffices to establish its falsity."
Of course, he also said "Man is an incomprehensible
monster, at once sovereign greatness and sovereign
misery." Still, fundamentally, he could take Descarte
out and kick him all the way down the alley.
Regards -- Steve Slatin
--- Malcolm Schosha wrote:
>> For those who throw off the hump, compressing the
> clay in the foot is
> not possible, and S-cracking will be difficult to
> avoid completely. I
> realize that throwing off the hump was a highly
> prized technique
> recommended by Leach, but in Italy (where I learned)
> throwing off the
> hump is looked down on as a way to throw large
> quantities of low
> quality pots. I found this out after reading Leach's
> book, when I
> asked a potter I worked with (a great thrower, who
> was in his late
> 60s at he time) if he ever threw that way. I was
> surprised that the
> question pissed him off so bad...you would have
> thought from his
> angry reaction that I had asked him if he ever
> considered having sex
> with his daughter, or something else equally
> insulting. I guess to
> him it was a pretty serious insult.
Steve Slatin --
Drove downtown in the rain
9:30 on a Tuesday night
Just to check out the
Late night record shop
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Rick Bonomo on fri 28 oct 05
Folks,
Would someone be kind enough to post a link to a picture of an " =
S-crack" for those of us who haven't seen one?
Thanks
Rick Bonomo
http://ricks-bricks.com/pottery.htm
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