pdp1@EARTHLINK.NET on tue 23 nov 04
briefly examin'd...
Well...
Our old pal Mr. Chatter likes to present himself now and
then to our various home-town news.
If one wishes to have chatter, it is good to know 'how' to
get it.
If one does not wish chatter, it is good to know how to get
'that'.
Does he visit unexpectedly? does he stay immoderstly long
when he does?
How to invite him? How to let the door nudge his butt as he
leaves hat-in-hand...?
Overall...curiously simple!
One must slow-down-the-movie and watch it deliberately...
Gummy Clay, and a fast Wheel and a sharp Tool...is a great
big neon flashing banner-headline invite...for Mr. Chatter
to come visit.
Moderately 'damp' though Leather Hard Clay...and a slowish
( Kick-Wheel kind of ) speed, and a Sharp Tool, and
introducing the Tool "to" the Work correctly...is...to have
no Mr. Chatter kay-nock-in on your door.
How a sharp Tool is introduced to the revolveing Work is
potentially very important -
One does NOT do well to merely plunge the Tool's cutting
edge into the Work and to start having it cut. Rather, if we
note the presence of the bevel ( or the 'fleem' as some
would have it) which is the small flat area beginning with
the actual cutting edge...and as goes back from there some
little bit...to it's heel were it meets whatever back there
is ( as say of a Loop)...
If we allow the bevel, or fleem to touch first, to touch
from it's "heel" so to speak...so the Tool is not cutting at
all but merely riding on the revolveing
Item-to-be-Trimmed...where the actual terminal edge as does
cut, is not touching the Work yet, but is ever so slightly
above it...
Then, to bring about the angle the Tool has to the work so
that the actual cutting edge is just beginning to shave off
'Onion skins' of Trimmings...to then bring it over, or in, a
little more, to let it arrive at that angle to the Work
where it will commence the real Trimming of thin 'noodles'
comeing nicely off...
The fleem or bevel is what regulates the Tools address of
the Trimming, and does so with respect to the kind of
resistance the edge of the Tool is getting from the Clay it
is cutting...this is important to appreciate either
intuitively, or, at liesure, cognitively...or best of all,
pragmatically in one's actual happy method.
And then...
We shall have our endevors free of Mr. Chatter's comeing to
visit...unless we invite him knowingly.
And our Trimming occupations may be done...with pleasure and
alacrity, free of his impress...or, with is impress, as we
please.
Like that...
Yours,
Philip Poburka
proprietor -maker
Bison Studios
Las Vegas, Nevada
U.S. of A
Url Krueger on wed 24 nov 04
briefly examin'd...
On Tue, 2004-11-23 at 19:22, pdp1@EARTHLINK.NET wrote:
> Our old pal Mr. Chatter likes to present himself now and
> then to our various home-town news.
> Does he visit unexpectedly? does he stay immoderstly long
> when he does?
Phil,
Once your Mr. Chatter has entered the scene I find it difficult to get
him to leave. Seems he just wants to hang around and chatter louder and
louder.
I've found that skewing the cutting edge so that it is not exactly
perpendicular to the direction of motion helps but do you have any other
tips on how to escort him out the door?
Thanks...
Earl...
pdp1@EARTHLINK.NET on wed 24 nov 04
briefly examin'd...
Hi Earl,
Ahhhh...I remember you...yes..!
Well, re-read the little thing I wrote there, it is all
about the things I mentioned.
The consistancy of the Clay, the Wheel Speed, how the Tool
is introduced to the revolveing Work.
For now, is your Clay 'Leather Hard'?
Are you running your Wheel slow, like as if it were a Kick
Wheel?
Are you touching the Tool to the Work so the area just
behind the cutting edge is rideing on it and nothing is
cutting...to then bring it over to just begin to cut,
getting very thing shavings? Then to allow it to cur deeper
as may be?
After these become second nature...then you will find you
can increase your Wheel speed while retaining your controll
and technique.
Examine these factors...and let me know...
We will solve it!
You'll see...
Best wishes,
Phil
Bison
Las Vegas
----- Original Message -----
From: "Url Krueger"
> On Tue, 2004-11-23 at 19:22, pdp1@EARTHLINK.NET wrote:
> > Our old pal Mr. Chatter likes to present himself now and
> > then to our various home-town news.
>
> > Does he visit unexpectedly? does he stay immoderstly
long
> > when he does?
>
> Phil,
>
> Once your Mr. Chatter has entered the scene I find it
difficult to get
> him to leave. Seems he just wants to hang around and
chatter louder and
> louder.
>
> I've found that skewing the cutting edge so that it is not
exactly
> perpendicular to the direction of motion helps but do you
have any other
> tips on how to escort him out the door?
>
> Thanks...
>
> Earl...
>
>
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william schran on wed 24 nov 04
briefly examin'd...
Phil wrote:>If one wishes to have chatter, it is good to know 'how' to
get it. If one does not wish chatter, it is good to know how to get
'that'.<
Phil - Thank you for reminding us all the correct way to use a superior tool.
And this comes at such an opportune time, just reading my messages
before I head into the studio to begin trimming a series of bowls.
As my students would say: "You're da bomb".
Bill
william schran on wed 24 nov 04
briefly examin'd...
Phil wrote to Earl:>Are you touching the Tool to the Work so the area just
behind the cutting edge is rideing on it and nothing is
cutting...to then bring it over to just begin to cut,
getting very thing shavings? Then to allow it to cur deeper
as may be?<
I haven't gotten to this part of the technique, we'll call "rolling
of the tool". Tried, will just have to try harder. I have slowed the
wheel down, but just go right into it, cutting away. But with the
wheel going much, much slower, I didn't have any chattering issues.
I think if we relate using a sharp Bison tool to centering, it may
help some folks. If one suddenly applies pressure (grabbing the clay)
when centering, the clay will most often go off center. One must ease
into the clay such that pressure is equally distributed. I think
trimming with a Bison tool works somewhat the same way. If the wheel
is going fast and one tries to "bite" into the clay to quickly, a
great chunk will be removed or the tool begin a harmonic vibration -
chattering.
Phil, does this make sense - help me out here buddy!
Bill
pdp1@EARTHLINK.NET on thu 25 nov 04
briefly examin'd...Bill's question
Hi Bill,
Oh! - I thought I had sent that off-line...I guess I had not
looked at
the address...
I just made some extempore images and put them up with a
link.
They may do better than my mentions below...
But Hmmmm...anyway, below...amid...!
----- Original Message -----
From: "william schran"
> Phil wrote to Earl:>Are you touching the Tool to the Work
so the area just
> behind the cutting edge is rideing on it and nothing is
> cutting...to then bring it over to just begin to cut,
> getting very thing shavings? Then to allow it to cur
deeper
> as may be?<
>
> I haven't gotten to this part of the technique, we'll call
"rolling
> of the tool". Tried, will just have to try harder. I have
slowed the
> wheel down, but just go right into it, cutting away. But
with the
> wheel going much, much slower, I didn't have any
chattering issues.
Ahhhh...okay...maybe do not "just go right into it"...let
the 'heel' ride first, then bring it over to where it
just...j-u-s-t...begins to cut...
...just bring the Tool to the Work in such a way as
to have the heel of the Loop, to have that part of the Tool
just rideing on the revolveing Clay form...with
no cutting going on...have it at that angle so the actual
cutting edge is just a little above the revolving Clay
form...and the heel of the Loop is riding against it.
Then, adjust the angle you are making of how the Tool is
against the work, so it can be controlled to just
barely cut, like Onion skins comeing off...then, to cut a
little deeper,
or as you please.
The depth of cut is a function of the bevel and the angle at
which the Tool is held to the Work, and, of how the Clay is
responding.
The edge of the Tool
where it cuts, is a kind of wedge. The side of the wedge as
is toward or against the Work, and, the angle which that has
to
the
Work, IS the angle one is holding the Tool to the Work, and
that, in how the Clay is responding according to it's
consistancy, controlls the depth and smoothness-evenness, of
cut.
Habits from dull Tools expect a Tool to be introduced
suddenly at an
aggressive angle to have them even seem to cut at
all.
Not good if the Tools is sharp - where they will dig in and
then
release and make 'chatter'. Or where one's controll will be
decidedly less anyway.
After a while, this little sensitivity will be
automatic...second nature...like 'driving'...
Begin with a slowish Wheel speed, and by touching first the
'heel' of the Loop...bringing the angle over a little untill
the Tool just begins to cut...then to cut a little more
deeply, and there will be nice clean thin 'noodles' winding
smoothly
off...
You know, and likely some of us remember a similiar kind of
thing,
when
teaching someone to drive, or when learning to drive, and
(well, if it was a smaller or
medium size Car especially) the pupil would put it in gear
and release the Clutch too suddenly while not feathering the
throttle, and by doing that, they'd make it buck, pushing
them back,
off the gas, so the Car would then slow suddenly from
compression, pushing
them forward onto the gas, so the Car would lurch forward?
all of that sort of thing? Bucking like that...
Kinda like that...just a co-ordination thing as can take a
little practice to become automatic.
Or, this may be done in a sequential way deliberate
conscious way, as, slowish like-for-pulls of Wheel speed,
heel of the Tool's bevel
touching first, bring the angle over to where the Tool is
just beginning to cut, then bring it over a little more to
cut more deeply...and have smooth even ribbons streaming off
nicely.
That sequence, rather than just putting the cutting edge of
the Tool immediately into the revolveing Clay form, to have
it then grab or instantly cut too deeply because of the
angle it was introduced to the work in was asking it TO do
so.
To controll the angle,
is to controll the cut as will get made, as it is getting
made.
Dull Tools do not care about any of this...and, they act
like it, too.
This made for bad habits for endless Potters, who then think
of "Tools" as being that way, that 'that' is how to use
them...rather than realizeing only
dull Tools are "that way"...
This is like saying all clays should fire to the same cone
or something, because beginner's clays at the rec hall,
did...
Or anything...
Our Tools and Materials are best treated as the individuals
they are, or as having the distinctions even IN a larger
Catagory ( such as 'clay' being clay of course, but also,
the kind of Clay it is, and the cone it will do best at, and
so on of each 'kind') lest the results
will become as confused as the treatment had been.
We do not treat a Wood Kiln the same as an electric one. On
and on...
> I think if we relate using a sharp Bison tool to
centering, it may
> help some folks. If one suddenly applies pressure
(grabbing the clay)
> when centering, the clay will most often go off center.
One must ease
> into the clay such that pressure is equally distributed. I
think
> trimming with a Bison tool works somewhat the same way. If
the wheel
> is going fast and one tries to "bite" into the clay to
quickly, a
> great chunk will be removed or the tool begin a harmonic
vibration -
> chattering.
Yes...the Tool being brought into the revolveing Work
suddenly, and or at an angle for it to instantly be cutting
deeply,
it may oblige the user's asking it to do that, in that way,
to cut too
momentarily deep, oweing to
the angle of attack being too aggressive...then, it will, or
may release, then,
return to dig
deep again, and release, and so on, which in essence, is
what uncontrolled Chatter is...especially in gummy Clay as
has not got to Leather Hard enough yet.
Gummy Clays may be Trimmed well after practice and
understanding, where, the Chattering will not happen for
one's steady hold, slower speed and experience. Till then,
we best start out methodically, deliberately, freshly, and
learn from there, onward...building as we go.
Too, it is more sure if one hold the Tool more fully,
not merely from the end of the Handle.
I allways Trimmed with my finger tips ON the Loop's
sides...and sometimes even useing the finger tips of my
other hand, which hand also was sometimes holding the
Clay-form to the bat
or Wheel head at the same time.
The cure, is to learn to be aware and in controll of the
angle at which the Tools is meeting the revolveing Work, to
employ a moderate or 'slow' Wheel speed, and to be aware of
the consistancy of the Clay so as to defer to that in manner
of the
former two.
Then, with paying attention to
these factors, and their combinant influence in effecting
how the Trimming is going, you can become sure of the
methods, and then find things getting done plenty fast even
on a slow Wheel, or, then, over time, to allow the Wheel to
be run somewhat
faster with a solid base of skill from which to do so.
>
> Phil, does this make sense - help me out here buddy!
Yes..makes sense...!
A lot like learning to drive...
> Bill
Best wishes..!
Yours,
Phil
Bison
Las Vegas
sincultura13 on fri 26 nov 04
briefly examin'd...Bill's question
Thanks! Where's the link? I've been reading about this Bison tool
for a couple of days with no mental piture of what it looks... I
looked around the web but wasn't able to find a pic....
thanks again
Sincultura
--- In clayart@yahoogroups.com, pdp1@E... wrote:
> Hi Bill,
>
>
>
> Oh! - I thought I had sent that off-line...I guess I had not
> looked at
> the address...
>
>
> I just made some extempore images and put them up with a
> link.
>
> They may do better than my mentions below...
>
> But Hmmmm...anyway, below...amid...!
>
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