Potter, Mark on fri 26 nov 04
Fellow shardies and Mosaic Artists - -=20
Has anyone experimented with glues to attach high fire shards to a wood
or other substrate?? I'm looking for the right compound to deliver from
a caulk gun to the job at hand. Have tried regular construction cement
but am not sure if it will hold long term.
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Lois Ruben
Aronow
Sent: Wednesday, November 10, 2004 6:15 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: Shards...
Whatever you can't sell as a second, you can smash the rest whenever
you're
mad at someone.
>
>
> What do potters do with glazed pots that don't turn out?
> After two years I have quite a collection of old test pieces,
> cracked, crazed, blistered pots, etc, etc. Any thoughts?
>
________________________________________________________________________
______
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
John Rodgers on fri 26 nov 04
Depending on where used - indoor or outdoors - liquid nails works good,
as does a variety of mastics for tile setting. Don't know what would
work for an outdoor application.
Regards,
John Rodgers
Chelsea, AL
Potter, Mark wrote:
>Fellow shardies and Mosaic Artists - -
>
>Has anyone experimented with glues to attach high fire shards to a wood
>or other substrate?? I'm looking for the right compound to deliver from
>a caulk gun to the job at hand. Have tried regular construction cement
>but am not sure if it will hold long term.
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Lois Ruben
>Aronow
>Sent: Wednesday, November 10, 2004 6:15 PM
>To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>Subject: Re: Shards...
>
>Whatever you can't sell as a second, you can smash the rest whenever
>you're
>mad at someone.
>
>
>
>>What do potters do with glazed pots that don't turn out?
>>After two years I have quite a collection of old test pieces,
>>cracked, crazed, blistered pots, etc, etc. Any thoughts?
>>
>>
>>
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>______
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
>
>
Cindy on fri 26 nov 04
Dear Mark,
I have not tried to affix tile to wood. It depends on what you're doing with
the shards/tiles, but if you're working on a floor or a counter top, I would
strongly recommend laying down some cement board over the wood first. It is
inflexable and water resistant--both important qualities in a tile
substrate.
If you're covering something like a bowl or cup, etc., wood will probably
work okay. I would probably use pre-mixed tile mastic(sp?) for a small
project like that. I don't like the pre-mix much for larger projects. It's
expensive and it stinks and I don't think it works as well. I use thin-set
for most things. It's cheaper (if you buy the grey kind) and, in my opinion,
easier to use. You do need to mix it in a well-ventilated space and wear a
respirator because of the very fine dust.
For most projects, you want it about the consistency of stiff cake batter.
Add the thin-set to the water, and don't have much water. It takes a
shockingly small amount of water. You can always add more water (or latex
additive if you prefer) later, but it does work better to add the dry to the
wet. I use an electric drill with a paint mixer attached. I'm sure it would
mix fine by hand, especially for small amounts.
You can get any of these things at your local home center or hardware store.
None of them are expensive (with the possible exception of the latex
additive, if you want to use it).
Good luck,
Cindy in SD
Christy Pines on sat 27 nov 04
I have 2 shard walls in my backyard (connecticut) that have gone through 2
winters here. The walls are concrete block and I used Flexbond, "premium
flexible bonding mortar" to make pottery shards of all sizes and weights
stick to the old concrete. It's rated for outdoor tile setting and I got it
at local home improvement store. (Home Depot in Orange, CT). So far, nothing
has fallen off. It comes in white and grey. I used white, which made the
wall look a bit like it belonged in South Beach rather than Connecticut, but
now, going into its third winter, it's starting to mellow. I ws going to use
grout in between the shards, but instead I made the mortar thicker and
pushed the pieces in so that some mortar oozes up between the pieces.
christy in connecticut
cpines at ix.netcom.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Potter, Mark"
Has anyone experimented with glues to attach high fire shards to a wood
or other substrate?? I'm looking for the right compound to deliver from
a caulk gun to the job at hand. Have tried regular construction cement
but am not sure if it will hold long term.
| |
|
