K H Komadina on sun 12 dec 04
I've just completed two large tile murals. One 4 x 5 feet and the other 4 x
8 feet. For these two pieces I mounted hardibacker board on the wall, by
screwing it into the studs, and then used thinset mortar to mount the
tiles. They were 5/8 inches thick. I then framed these with molding (it
made design sense)and all of that worked nicely. I now have a commission
for a piece that needs to be more free form, ie no frame. My question is:
how thick can I go with my tiles and safely mount them directly onto dry
wall with mastic, or can I use thinset on drywall (doesn't seem like the
latter is a good idea to me). The design incorporates irregular shapes, up
to about 8 x 16 inches, and I'm thinking about 1/2 to 5/8 inches thick.
Drywall or a backer board, that's the question.
Thanks Everyone,
Kevin
K H Komadina
KHK Original Ceramic Art Studio
Edina, MN
mondloch on mon 13 dec 04
I now have a commission
> for a piece that needs to be more free form, ie no frame. My question is:
> how thick can I go with my tiles and safely mount them directly onto dry
> wall with mastic, or can I use thinset on drywall (doesn't seem like the
> latter is a good idea to me). The design incorporates irregular shapes, up
> to about 8 x 16 inches, and I'm thinking about 1/2 to 5/8 inches thick.
> Drywall or a backer board, that's the question.
Kevin,
When I did a mural for our bath remodel job, we were working with a tile
installer so we used what he wanted which was mastic on greenboard. The clay
pieces were rather large and freeform, not real thick, but they had large
hollow areas on the back side that he wanted to at least partially fill with
the mastic. He claimed that the mastic is "stickier" in application then the
thinset and that we didn't need the cement board in the location. This is an
interior location that occasionally gets damp but not wet. You can see it
under 'for your bath' on our web-site. Although it looks framed, the wood
was added for looks and does not support the clay. It's been up for about 4
years.
The mastic and greenboard worked fine for this dry area installation, but
when we redo our other bath I think I'd like to use the new hardibacker and
thinset for the shower tile I'm planning to make. I've used cement board
before but not the newer hardibacker board. I'd be interested in hearing any
opinions on it.
Let us know what you decide to do!
Sylvia
---
Mark & Sylvia Mondloch
Silver Creek Pottery & Forge
W6725 Hwy 144
Random Lake ,Wi 53075
HotArt@silvercreekpottery.com
http://www.silvercreekpottery.com
mondloch on mon 13 dec 04
> Look into some info on large architectural terra cotta. Those big
> gargoyles on early skyscrapers had a support system that bolted right
> through the wall.
Marcia,
Do you know where I can find information on how they did these support
systems?
We just accepted a commission for a combination claytile/forged iron
wallpiece that will be mounted on an exterior wall with vinyl clapboard
siding. Since it'll be in a public beach area, they want it bolted through
the wall so that noone can get the bright idea to take it down and throw it
in the lake. So we are exploring our options at this time for the best way
to mount it.
Funny how timely these discussions on Clayart can be. Anyone with tips on
doing this type of installation?
Sylvia
---
Mark & Sylvia Mondloch
Silver Creek Pottery & Forge
W6725 Hwy 144
Random Lake ,Wi 53075
HotArt@silvercreekpottery.com
http://www.silvercreekpottery.com
Marcia Selsor on mon 13 dec 04
Kevin,
If you think you need a stronger mortar, check marble and granite
mortar..for big rock work.
You could also incorporate a system of pins to hang your large pieces
while setting them in the mortar.
Look into some info on large architectural terra cotta. Those big
gargoyles on early skyscrapers had a support system that bolted right
through the wall.
Marcia Selsor
John Jensen on mon 13 dec 04
You can put tiles onto drywall (the green water resistant kind would be
preferable) using thinset but I wouldn't recommend it, backerboard =
being
preferable. I have used thinset on green drywall, and it has held up for
five years now in the vicinity of a shower. Check some home improvement =
type
books on tile installation for other opinions.
John Jensen, Mudbug Pottery
John Jensen@mudbugpottery.com
http://www.toadhouse.com www://www.mudbugpottery.com
Subject: Architectural Tile Insta-llation
I now have a commission
for a piece that needs to be more free form, ie no frame. My question =
is:
how thick can I go with my tiles and safely mount them directly onto dry
wall with mastic, or can I use thinset on drywall (doesn't seem like the
latter is a good idea to me). The design incorporates irregular shapes, =
up
to about 8 x 16 inches, and I'm thinking about 1/2 to 5/8 inches thick.
Drywall or a backer board, that's the question.
Thanks Everyone,
Kevin
K H Komadina
KHK Original Ceramic Art Studio
Edina, MN
John Jensen on mon 13 dec 04
I think the deal about granite and marble mortar is not so much that they
are stronger. Rather they are formulated for thicker application.
As always...I could be wrong. When I laid a marble hearth recently, for
example, I used stone and marble mortar because I was putting in a fairly
thick applicaton to ensure an unbroken and level bed of mortar.
John Jensen, Mudbug Pottery
John Jensen@mudbugpottery.com
http://www.toadhouse.com www://www.mudbugpottery.com
Subject: Re: Architectural Tile Installation
Kevin,
If you think you need a stronger mortar, check marble and granite
mortar..for big rock work.
You could also incorporate a system of pins to hang your large pieces
while setting them in the mortar.
Look into some info on large architectural terra cotta. Those big
gargoyles on early skyscrapers had a support system that bolted right
through the wall.
Marcia Selsor
Cindy on mon 13 dec 04
Hi, Kevin
Your tile murals sound wonderful. Someday, perhaps, I'll get to that. I have
done some ordinary tile, however. I don't know about adhering it directly to
the sheetrock. I've adhered tile directly to green board in non-waterlogged
areas, and that worked all right. The tile ran all the way to the floor,
though, which helped support it. At the time, I was using mastic, not
thinset, but I've since decided I like thinset much better. Mastic, however,
might be a better fit for the drywall or greenboard.
Is the sheet rock already in place? Was it put up with screws or nails? How
heavy is the tile mural? All questions you need to consider. Maybe I'm
over-engineering here, but I think that, if I were doing this project, I
would tear out the sheetrock and install cement backer board. I would then
go over the backer board with thinset or drywall mud to smooth it out in the
areas I wasn't going to cover with tile, tape and mud the seams, and prime
it--maybe paint, too, to keep from getting paint on the tiles later. This
isn't really as much trouble as it sounds like. Worth it, for an important
installation. Then I would install the tiles with thinset, supporting the
lower layers until they were finished drying.
Otherwise, I would make the mural on some sort of backing, then screw it
into the studs through some of the mortar joints with long screws, and cover
the holes with mortar.
Hope this helps,
Cindy in SD
> I've just completed two large tile murals. One 4 x 5 feet and the other 4
x
> 8 feet. For these two pieces I mounted hardibacker board on the wall, by
> screwing it into the studs, and then used thinset mortar to mount the
> tiles. They were 5/8 inches thick. I then framed these with molding (it
> made design sense)and all of that worked nicely. I now have a commission
> for a piece that needs to be more free form, ie no frame. My question is:
> how thick can I go with my tiles and safely mount them directly onto dry
> wall with mastic, or can I use thinset on drywall (doesn't seem like the
> latter is a good idea to me). The design incorporates irregular shapes, up
> to about 8 x 16 inches, and I'm thinking about 1/2 to 5/8 inches thick.
> Drywall or a backer board, that's the question.
>
> Thanks Everyone,
>
> Kevin
>
> K H Komadina
> KHK Original Ceramic Art Studio
> Edina, MN
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
Kevin Komadina on tue 14 dec 04
Sylvia,
Thanks for your input. The new commission I'm working on will be in a =
family room on regular sheet rock, seems like the mastic will be okay to =
me from what everyone says. There shouldn't be any moisture in the area. =
the hardibacker board is a nice surface to work on and lighter than =
cement board. It can be cut by scoring deeply with a utility knife and =
then snapping like regular dry wall. I've used it as the backer for some =
framed tile pieces as well. In addition to tile installations, I have =
been using it for the top of my work tables and for my wedging surface. =
It does absorb water from the clay but isn't weakened by water. It also =
doesn't chip like plaster can, which is why I like to wedge on it.
Kevin
----- Original Message -----=20
From: mondloch=20
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG=20
Sent: Monday, December 13, 2004 5:05 PM
Subject: Re: Architectural Tile Installation
I now have a commission
> for a piece that needs to be more free form, ie no frame. My =
question is:
> how thick can I go with my tiles and safely mount them directly onto =
dry
> wall with mastic, or can I use thinset on drywall (doesn't seem like =
the
> latter is a good idea to me). The design incorporates irregular =
shapes, up
> to about 8 x 16 inches, and I'm thinking about 1/2 to 5/8 inches =
thick.
> Drywall or a backer board, that's the question.
Kevin,
When I did a mural for our bath remodel job, we were working with a =
tile
installer so we used what he wanted which was mastic on greenboard. =
The clay
pieces were rather large and freeform, not real thick, but they had =
large
hollow areas on the back side that he wanted to at least partially =
fill with
the mastic. He claimed that the mastic is "stickier" in application =
then the
thinset and that we didn't need the cement board in the location. This =
is an
interior location that occasionally gets damp but not wet. You can see =
it
under 'for your bath' on our web-site. Although it looks framed, the =
wood
was added for looks and does not support the clay. It's been up for =
about 4
years.
The mastic and greenboard worked fine for this dry area installation, =
but
when we redo our other bath I think I'd like to use the new =
hardibacker and
thinset for the shower tile I'm planning to make. I've used cement =
board
before but not the newer hardibacker board. I'd be interested in =
hearing any
opinions on it.
Let us know what you decide to do!
Sylvia
---
Mark & Sylvia Mondloch
Silver Creek Pottery & Forge
W6725 Hwy 144
Random Lake ,Wi 53075
HotArt@silvercreekpottery.com
http://www.silvercreekpottery.com
=
_________________________________________________________________________=
_____
Send postings to =
clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from =
http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at =
melpots@pclink.com.
Kevin Komadina on tue 14 dec 04
PS. Very nice work. I like the combination of iron and ceramic. Kevin
----- Original Message -----=20
From: mondloch=20
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG=20
Sent: Monday, December 13, 2004 5:05 PM
Subject: Re: Architectural Tile Installation
I now have a commission
> for a piece that needs to be more free form, ie no frame. My =
question is:
> how thick can I go with my tiles and safely mount them directly onto =
dry
> wall with mastic, or can I use thinset on drywall (doesn't seem like =
the
> latter is a good idea to me). The design incorporates irregular =
shapes, up
> to about 8 x 16 inches, and I'm thinking about 1/2 to 5/8 inches =
thick.
> Drywall or a backer board, that's the question.
Kevin,
When I did a mural for our bath remodel job, we were working with a =
tile
installer so we used what he wanted which was mastic on greenboard. =
The clay
pieces were rather large and freeform, not real thick, but they had =
large
hollow areas on the back side that he wanted to at least partially =
fill with
the mastic. He claimed that the mastic is "stickier" in application =
then the
thinset and that we didn't need the cement board in the location. This =
is an
interior location that occasionally gets damp but not wet. You can see =
it
under 'for your bath' on our web-site. Although it looks framed, the =
wood
was added for looks and does not support the clay. It's been up for =
about 4
years.
The mastic and greenboard worked fine for this dry area installation, =
but
when we redo our other bath I think I'd like to use the new =
hardibacker and
thinset for the shower tile I'm planning to make. I've used cement =
board
before but not the newer hardibacker board. I'd be interested in =
hearing any
opinions on it.
Let us know what you decide to do!
Sylvia
---
Mark & Sylvia Mondloch
Silver Creek Pottery & Forge
W6725 Hwy 144
Random Lake ,Wi 53075
HotArt@silvercreekpottery.com
http://www.silvercreekpottery.com
=
_________________________________________________________________________=
_____
Send postings to =
clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from =
http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at =
melpots@pclink.com.
John Jensen on tue 14 dec 04
Comparing Hardibacker with cementboard: The cement board tends to warp
some, is crumbly on the edges and prone to crack. None of these flaws =
are
particularly troublesome when it is used as intended. The hardibacker =
is
lighter, easier to cut accurately, doesn't tend to warp or crack. I
wouldn't use the cement board if I had a choice. The cement board may =
have
some advantages, but I don't know what they are. It might be a bit =
cheaper.
John Jensen, Mudbug Pottery
John Jensen@mudbugpottery.com
http://www.toadhouse.com www://www.mudbugpottery.com
The mastic and greenboard worked fine for this dry area installation, =
but
when we redo our other bath I think I'd like to use the new hardibacker =
and
thinset for the shower tile I'm planning to make. I've used cement board
before but not the newer hardibacker board. I'd be interested in hearing =
any
opinions on it.
Marcia Selsor on tue 14 dec 04
There is a great resource book Architectural Ceramics published by
Thames on Hudson. Out of print but search ABEbooks.com
Also Susan Tunick has written some great books on Architectural
Ceramics like the "New York Skyline", but I can't remember if she gets
into that much detail. Maybe contact the Tile Heritage for some more
immediate resources. The example I remember most had a large steel
plate(like a big oversized washer) on the interior wall which was thick
masonry. The bolt went through the plate and wall and into the
gargoyle.
Really enjoyed your website. Lovely work.
Maybe I will stop and see it in real life next time I drive East.
Wisconsin is on the way.
I commissioned a blacksmith to do some table frames for me. I really
like what he did. But I think you and mark have a special relationship
and cohesive design working there.
Marcia Selsor
On Dec 13, 2004, at 4:07 PM, mondloch wrote:
>> Look into some info on large architectural terra cotta. Those big
>> gargoyles on early skyscrapers had a support system that bolted right
>> through the wall.
mmondloch1 on tue 14 dec 04
John,
Have you happened to have used the hardibacker in any exterior cold weather
applications? It doesn't say if it's suitable for that use in any of the
info I've read.
Sylvia
---
Mark & Sylvia Mondloch
Silver Creek Pottery & Forge
W6725 Hwy 144
Random Lake ,Wi 53075
HotArt@silvercreekpottery.com
http://www.silvercreekpottery.com
Comparing Hardibacker with cementboard: The cement board tends to warp
some, is crumbly on the edges and prone to crack. None of these flaws are
particularly troublesome when it is used as intended. The hardibacker is
lighter, easier to cut accurately, doesn't tend to warp or crack. I
wouldn't use the cement board if I had a choice. The cement board may have
some advantages, but I don't know what they are. It might be a bit cheaper.
John Jensen, Mudbug Pottery
John Jensen@mudbugpottery.com
http://www.toadhouse.com www://www.mudbugpottery.com
John Jensen on tue 14 dec 04
I have not used the Hardibacker for any exterior coldweather applications;
but I wouldn't hesitate to use it for that. As far as I understand it is a
cementacious material and can be used in any environment where masonry is
approriate.
John Jensen, Mudbug Pottery
John Jensen@mudbugpottery.com
http://www.toadhouse.com www://www.mudbugpottery.com
Subject: Re: Architectural Tile Installation
John,
Have you happened to have used the hardibacker in any exterior cold weather
applications? It doesn't say if it's suitable for that use in any of the
info I've read.
Sylvia
Darin Lang on tue 14 dec 04
I used to own a tiling company.
Hardibacker is the easiest to use for tile. It is all I use regardless
of application.
Durock is heavier, abrasive, and messier.
Drywall, whether greenboard or not, can be used, just realize that you
are gluing tile to a piece of paper glued to gypsum which is screwed to
the wall. Drywall offers little resistance to shifting of the structure.
Moisture causes the paper to lift off the gypsum, whether greenboard or
not, greenboard is just slower to lift rot and crumble, but in the
presence of continued moisture it will happen.
The fibers in hardibacker cause the board to behave monolithically. When
the structure settles the wall tends to move as a single unit rather
than sheer. It is water resistant and can be exposed to continuous
moisture without deteriorating. If I were doing exterior art work, I
would embed the hardibacker in a reinforced concrete wall or mortar bed.
Then when the wall cracks, which is more or less inevitable, the crack
would have a better chance of bypassing the tile work.
Mastic has a high hang, meaning that when you set a tile on a wall it
generally stays put, but low adhesion, it will also break down and lose
its bond if it becomes wet at any point in its life. Mortar has low
hang, meaning that when you stick it on the wall the tile tends to drift
in the direction of gravity, but it has high adhesion and once cured is
impervious to moisture.
Thinset mortars are commonly used with tile. Medium bed mortars are
commonly used with granite and marble. The reason is that due to the
mirrored finely polished nature and tight joints of stone, slight
differences in height from tile to tile are very noticable. The thicker
mortar bed allows for adjustment up and down to create a "perfectly"
flat surface. Most tiles though have a wider grout joint, 1/8" and up,
and differences in height are not readily noticeable. Further, tiles
themselves are never consistently sized, and vary widely in thickness
and dimensions unlike the precision machined stones.
Grout is the weakest part of any tile installation. It cracks before
anything else. This is the real reason to use the hardibacker. The
stiffer your backer, the less chance of grout cracking when the
structure moves. If you are making a portable piece, you might be better
off using colored and textured caulks which will flex.
Darin Lang
Darin Lang on wed 15 dec 04
Thanks Sylvia. I love you and your husbands art! Just moments before I
read this, I was showing it to my wife. How's that for coincidence?
I have never seen anyone leave Medex or any other such board exposed for
any length of time. It has to be protected on all 6 sides or there will
be problems at some time. That's just something you can't get away from
with wood. If it was protected, I think it would be fine. For instance
if you were doing an exterior wall of a building, that was sheathed in
Medex, and you put hardibacker over the section you were doing a tile
mural on, and you then protected the edges of the hardibacker so that no
moisture got behind it around the edges (easy to do for a year, but
harder to do it so it lasts) then that would probably work. To keep the
moisture out, eaves or some sort of overhang to keep the rain off is a
great idea to work into the original design (tile roofing has been
around for centuries...).
For the installation, you want as solid a surface as possible that will
remain stable for the longest period of time. If the Medex has been
nailed to studs, then you should screw it every 12 inches along the
studs in the entire area that will be covered with hardibacker plus at
least one stud past it on both sides. This is because nails have a
tendency to back out. Then the hardibacker should be mortared and
screwed every 8 inches to the Medex. Since it is nearly the same price
for 1/4" as it is for 1/2" hardibacker, use the thickest that the
installation will allow.
Does that help?
Darin Lang
Silver Creek Pottery wrote:
> Darin,
> Great post.
>
> What's your opinion of Medex board as a backing for hardibacker in an
> exterior situation?
>
> Sylvia
>
> ---
> Mark & Sylvia Mondloch
> Silver Creek Pottery & Forge
> W6725 Hwy 144
> Random Lake ,Wi 53075
> HotArt@silvercreekpottery.com
> http://www.silvercreekpottery.com
>
>
>> The fibers in hardibacker cause the board to behave monolithically. When
>> the structure settles the wall tends to move as a single unit rather
>> than sheer. It is water resistant and can be exposed to continuous
>> moisture without deteriorating. If I were doing exterior art work, I
>> would embed the hardibacker in a reinforced concrete wall or mortar bed.
>> Then when the wall cracks, which is more or less inevitable, the crack
>> would have a better chance of bypassing the tile work.
>
>
>> Grout is the weakest part of any tile installation. It cracks before
>> anything else. This is the real reason to use the hardibacker. The
>> stiffer your backer, the less chance of grout cracking when the
>> structure moves. If you are making a portable piece, you might be better
>> off using colored and textured caulks which will flex.
>>
>> Darin Lang
>>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
>
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
Linda Blossom on wed 15 dec 04
Kevin said:
I now have a
> commission
> for a piece that needs to be more free form, ie no frame. My question
> is:
> how thick can I go with my tiles and safely mount them directly onto
> dry
> wall with mastic, or can I use thinset on drywall (doesn't seem like
> the
> latter is a good idea to me). The design incorporates irregular shapes,
> up
> to about 8 x 16 inches, and I'm thinking about 1/2 to 5/8 inches thick.
> Drywall or a backer board, that's the question.
Mastic and thinset are fine and indeed are included in the specs for use
on drywall. I usually prefer thinset because of the gaps and hollows
inherent in thicker, handmade work. In an area where moisture is not of
issue, it really is a matter of what fills the spaces. Todays's mastic
is waterproof but no drywall, whatever its color, is waterproof. The
paper on the drywall doesn't come off because of the weight but if you
are really going thick with the tiles, and are worried about the weight,
you can attach some lighter weight diamond mesh wire to the wall, with
screws going into the studs beneath the drywall, and thinset into the
wire.
If it is alternate surfaces you want, then that is another question and
I know of two other products besides backer board and Hardibacker.
Linda
My email server is funky so if you want to email me about the other
products, please email me directly as I have set clayart to nomail until
I can resolve it.
Silver Creek Pottery on wed 15 dec 04
Marcia,
Thanks for the info. I will look into these.
We've talked about how it's a shame that more potters and blacksmiths don't
work together but we also realize it would be more difficult if they're not
able to work as closely together as we do, with the constant give and take
on ideas.
If I remember correctly, you've organized workshops in Spain right? Any
plans for any more in the future? Mark and I have become smitten with the
work of Antonio Gaudi and Barcelona is now our dream vacation.
We would LOVE to have you stop in anytime, this goes for any clayarters
coming through the area,
Sylvia
---
Mark & Sylvia Mondloch
Silver Creek Pottery & Forge
W6725 Hwy 144
Random Lake ,Wi 53075
HotArt@silvercreekpottery.com
http://www.silvercreekpottery.com
> There is a great resource book Architectural Ceramics published by
> Thames on Hudson. Out of print but search ABEbooks.com
> Also Susan Tunick has written some great books on Architectural
> Ceramics like the "New York Skyline", but I can't remember if she gets
> into that much detail. Maybe contact the Tile Heritage for some more
> immediate resources. The example I remember most had a large steel
> plate(like a big oversized washer) on the interior wall which was thick
> masonry. The bolt went through the plate and wall and into the
> gargoyle.
> Really enjoyed your website. Lovely work.
> Maybe I will stop and see it in real life next time I drive East.
> Wisconsin is on the way.
> I commissioned a blacksmith to do some table frames for me. I really
> like what he did. But I think you and mark have a special relationship
> and cohesive design working there.
> Marcia Selsor
Marcia Selsor on wed 15 dec 04
Dear Sylvia
I use to start my month long workshops in Spain in Barcelona. I know a
great tappas bar in the Barrio Gotica that charges by the number of
empty toothpicks on your plate. I have no plans for European workshops
in the immediate future. The rising Euro made it too expensive for my
classes last spring. I will wait it out. Barcelona has great Gaudi
examples my favorites being Guell Park, Casa Vicennes, Casa Piedra,
Sagrada Familia. But also the Palau de Musica Catalana is a gem of Art
Nouveau wood, mosaics, and design. The Museo de Ceramica is great, the
Miro and Picasso museums, the Romanesque Museum are all outstanding. I
love Barcelona and Spain!
I agree that collaborative work between two artists could be a strain
if they are not so close.
Best wishes, Marcia
On Dec 15, 2004, at 3:41 PM, Silver Creek Pottery wrote:
> Marcia,
> Thanks for the info. I will look into these.
>
> We've talked about how it's a shame that more potters and blacksmiths
> don't
> work together but we also realize it would be more difficult if
> they're not
> able to work as closely together as we do, with the constant give and
> take
> on ideas.
>
> If I remember correctly, you've organized workshops in Spain right? Any
> plans for any more in the future? Mark and I have become smitten with
> the
> work of Antonio Gaudi and Barcelona is now our dream vacation.
>
> We would LOVE to have you stop in anytime, this goes for any clayarters
> coming through the area,
> Sylvia
>
>
> ---
> Mark & Sylvia Mondloch
> Silver Creek Pottery & Forge
> W6725 Hwy 144
> Random Lake ,Wi 53075
> HotArt@silvercreekpottery.com
> http://www.silvercreekpottery.com
>
>
>
>> There is a great resource book Architectural Ceramics published by
>> Thames on Hudson. Out of print but search ABEbooks.com
>> Also Susan Tunick has written some great books on Architectural
>> Ceramics like the "New York Skyline", but I can't remember if she gets
>> into that much detail. Maybe contact the Tile Heritage for some more
>> immediate resources. The example I remember most had a large steel
>> plate(like a big oversized washer) on the interior wall which was
>> thick
>> masonry. The bolt went through the plate and wall and into the
>> gargoyle.
>> Really enjoyed your website. Lovely work.
>> Maybe I will stop and see it in real life next time I drive East.
>> Wisconsin is on the way.
>> I commissioned a blacksmith to do some table frames for me. I really
>> like what he did. But I think you and mark have a special relationship
>> and cohesive design working there.
>> Marcia Selsor
>
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Silver Creek Pottery on wed 15 dec 04
Darin,
Great post.
What's your opinion of Medex board as a backing for hardibacker in an
exterior situation?
Sylvia
---
Mark & Sylvia Mondloch
Silver Creek Pottery & Forge
W6725 Hwy 144
Random Lake ,Wi 53075
HotArt@silvercreekpottery.com
http://www.silvercreekpottery.com
> The fibers in hardibacker cause the board to behave monolithically. When
> the structure settles the wall tends to move as a single unit rather
> than sheer. It is water resistant and can be exposed to continuous
> moisture without deteriorating. If I were doing exterior art work, I
> would embed the hardibacker in a reinforced concrete wall or mortar bed.
> Then when the wall cracks, which is more or less inevitable, the crack
> would have a better chance of bypassing the tile work.
> Grout is the weakest part of any tile installation. It cracks before
> anything else. This is the real reason to use the hardibacker. The
> stiffer your backer, the less chance of grout cracking when the
> structure moves. If you are making a portable piece, you might be better
> off using colored and textured caulks which will flex.
>
> Darin Lang
>
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