Carole Fox on wed 22 dec 04
I am considering buying a couple of steel frame workbenches to use in
working with clay. Use would include working with slabs of clay, glazing,
and general use. I do not intend to wedge clay directly on this surface. I
can get the workbenches with unfinished MDF worksurfaces, or with
unfinished plywood, or finished with a Formica-type laminate. My thought
is that clay will stick to the Formica, but I am concerned that unfinished
MDF or plywood will be adversely affected by the moisture in the clay.
Also, I am not happy with the roughness of the plywood surface. I would
appreciate any advice that any of you may have concerning any of these
materials that you have used yourself as a worksurface.
Thanks,
Carole Fox
Dayton, OH
Fred Hagen on wed 22 dec 04
I made a table with a plywood top covered by heavy canvas --it works fine and clay doesn't stick to it. I think this sort of table is common in many studios. I used 3/4 inch plywood for the top.
Carole Fox wrote:I am considering buying a couple of steel frame workbenches to use in
working with clay. Use would include working with slabs of clay, glazing,
and general use. I do not intend to wedge clay directly on this surface. I
can get the workbenches with unfinished MDF worksurfaces, or with
unfinished plywood, or finished with a Formica-type laminate. My thought
is that clay will stick to the Formica, but I am concerned that unfinished
MDF or plywood will be adversely affected by the moisture in the clay.
Also, I am not happy with the roughness of the plywood surface. I would
appreciate any advice that any of you may have concerning any of these
materials that you have used yourself as a worksurface.
Thanks,
Carole Fox
Dayton, OH
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Hank Murrow on wed 22 dec 04
On Dec 22, 2004, at 6:38 AM, Carole Fox wrote:
> I am considering buying a couple of steel frame workbenches to use in
> working with clay. Use would include working with slabs of clay,
> glazing,
> and general use. I do not intend to wedge clay directly on this
> surface. I
> can get the workbenches with unfinished MDF worksurfaces, or with
> unfinished plywood, or finished with a Formica-type laminate. My
> thought
> is that clay will stick to the Formica, but I am concerned that
> unfinished
> MDF or plywood will be adversely affected by the moisture in the clay.
> Also, I am not happy with the roughness of the plywood surface. I
> would
> appreciate any advice that any of you may have concerning any of these
> materials that you have used yourself as a worksurface.
Dear Carole;
I have two tables of 1" plywood which are 4' x 10' oversize. I added 1"
half-round moulding to the edges, and covered the tables with the
heaviest cotton canvas I could get, stretching the dampened cloth over
the edges and stapling underneath. as it dries, the cloth stretches
tightly. These tables have endured all manner of abuse, and offer a
nice surface to wedge or glaze on.
Cheers, Hank
www.murrow.biz/hank
Dale Duncan on wed 22 dec 04
On Dec 22, 2004, at 6:38 AM, Carole Fox wrote:
> I am considering buying a couple of steel frame workbenches=20
>to use in working with clay...........>I would appreciate any=20
>advice that any of you may have concerning any of these
> materials that you have used yourself as a worksurface.
>
Carole....I use lab tables with laminate tops that I bought=20
at a school auction. One table has Motley Crue carved in=20
the top....how cute :>). I use these tables for all types=20
of clay work and glazing..=20
The only drawback with these tables is that the clay will=20
stick to the top when slammed down on it hard. To get=20
around the sticking clay I've made up two canvas covered=20
boards, one for brown clay and one for white clay...Move=20
them around to work where ever I want. The boards are=20
covered with heavy duty canvas drop cloth..This system=20
is basically a miniature version of Hanks big tables without=20
table legs.....Works for me..
Table and canvas board photos are posted at:
http://public.fotki.com/DDuncan/
BTW....Remove the drawers from the tables and you=20
have instant storage for your bats......
Best Wishes ...Dale Duncan
=20
claybair on wed 22 dec 04
Hi Carol,
I use 1/4" hardibacker.
You can get hardibacker with a smooth or
rough surface. It's great.
I use it for ware boards too... easy to cut (score and snap),
pieces dry more evenly, pop off easily, cleaning is fast,
and they take up much less space than wood or drywall.
I tried using it for bats but I was grinding my fingernails down
and as I haven't gotten rid if the habit of my fingernails skimming
the surface of the bat I abandoned using it for that purpose.
I use it for wedging also.
Happy/Merry ChristmaHanaRamaQuanzka (did I miss anything?) everyone!
Gayle Bair
Bainbridge Island, WA
http://claybair.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Carole Fox
I am considering buying a couple of steel frame workbenches to use in
working with clay. Use would include working with slabs of clay, glazing,
and general use. I do not intend to wedge clay directly on this surface. I
can get the workbenches with unfinished MDF worksurfaces, or with
unfinished plywood, or finished with a Formica-type laminate. My thought
is that clay will stick to the Formica, but I am concerned that unfinished
MDF or plywood will be adversely affected by the moisture in the clay.
Also, I am not happy with the roughness of the plywood surface. I would
appreciate any advice that any of you may have concerning any of these
materials that you have used yourself as a worksurface.
Thanks,
Carole Fox
Dayton, OH
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Vince Pitelka on thu 23 dec 04
> My thought
> is that clay will stick to the Formica, but I am concerned that unfinished
> MDF or plywood will be adversely affected by the moisture in the clay.
> Also, I am not happy with the roughness of the plywood surface. I would
> appreciate any advice that any of you may have concerning any of these
> materials that you have used yourself as a worksurface.
Carole -
It sounds like you are getting good sturdy table frames, so you do not want
to skimp on the tops. I would recommend 3/4" plywood or screwed down to the
table, covered with a layer of 1/2" MDF board glued to the plywood, so that
there are no nails or screws showing on the upper surface. This will give
you an absolutely flat, very ridgid surface that will not flex at all, and
that's what you need when you are working with slabs.
Unless you are planning to leave wet material directly in contact with the
MDF board for extended periods of time, I doubt that you need to do anything
to the surface. One thing you might consider, however. Some MDF board uses
formaldehyde in the bonding agent, and you do not want to be breathing that
stuff or absorbing it into your skin. Sealing the surface would eliminate
that problem, but then the clay would stick. It would be well worth your
while to find a supplier for "Medex" brand MDF, a no-formaldehyde waterproof
MDF board manufactured by Sierra Pine. You should be able to find suppliers
online. With Medex, you will never have to apply any kind of sealant. This
stuff is intended for outdoor signs and other such applications. It is the
best stuff available for throwing bats, and thus would also hold up very
well on a table top.
Good luck -
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Craft, Tennessee Technological University
Smithville TN 37166, 615/597-6801 x111
vpitelka@dtccom.net, wpitelka@tntech.edu
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka/
http://www.tntech.edu/craftcenter/
Tom Sawyer on thu 23 dec 04
Carole,
I picked up some left over pieces of marble several years ago rather cheaply
and have never had any problems; This is my favorite work surface.
Tom Sawyer
tsawyer@cfl.rr.com
Jennifer Baumeister on thu 23 dec 04
Carole,
My favorite work surface is a raw wood surface ( I had a friend make me a workbench, I'm not sure what type of wood he used for the surface but it is well sanded and holds up to the moisture/ drying cycle that it is exposed to.
The next surface that I just started using is Hardibacker. It is the cement/fiber board used for mounting tile on.
It most commonly comes in 1/2 inch thickness. But is also manufactured in 1/4 inch ( the 1/4 inch thickness is not carried by the hardware stores in my area )
You can screw a sheet onto your table, It you don't want the holes in your surface you can lay it on a rubber or carpet underlay, it is heavy enough to stay put , ) This material holds up well and doesn't seem to warp.
You can wedge on it, throw on it and I'm sure hand build on as well... good cheep multipurpose surface.
Jen
I am considering buying a couple of steel frame workbenches to use in
working with clay. Use would include working with slabs of clay, glazing,
and general use. I do not intend to wedge clay directly on this surface. I
can get the workbenches with unfinished MDF worksurfaces, or with
unfinished plywood, or finished with a Formica-type laminate. My thought
is that clay will stick to the Formica, but I am concerned that unfinished
MDF or plywood will be adversely affected by the moisture in the clay.
Also, I am not happy with the roughness of the plywood surface. I would
appreciate any advice that any of you may have concerning any of these
materials that you have used yourself as a worksurface.
Thanks,
Carole Fox
Dayton, OH
Donalson on thu 23 dec 04
Carole,
I would agree with Vince's post regarding construction and attachment of =
the top layer so that there are no screws penetrating from the top. My =
personal choice for the top layer is tempered 1/4" masonite. Leaves no =
pattern on the clay and is just about indestructable. We have been =
using tempered masonite on the 4' x 8' handbuilding tables at NAU for =
several years now with great success. Home Depot....less than $10 a=20
4' x 8' sheet.
Craig AZ
Ron Roy on thu 23 dec 04
I use plywood (good one side) - it does stay smooth for quite a long time -
it can also be replaced or sanded as well - I have always liked working on
it better than any other surface.
I don't recommend canvas - too hard to keep the silica from becoming
airborn everytime you work on it.
RR
>I made a table with a plywood top covered by heavy canvas --it works fine
>and clay doesn't stick to it. I think this sort of table is common in many
>studios. I used 3/4 inch plywood for the top.
Ron Roy
RR#4
15084 Little Lake Road
Brighton, Ontario
Canada
K0K 1H0
Phone: 613-475-9544
Fax: 613-475-3513
LaurieJean gombar on thu 23 dec 04
Hi!
Coming out of lurkdom. What is working well for me is a piece of
plywood (medium grade- 1in thick?) screwed into those triangular
brackets and the wall...(bonus, no legs to mop and then sweep around.)
I then got some cuphooks and put a few in along the wall with the open
"c" part facing the wall. I took some canvas and made shapes or the
size exactly like the surface with a 2-3 inch overlap in the front. I
then put grommets/holes where the cup hooks are screwed in along the
back. When placing a clean sheet of canvas down, I hook it up along the
back, stretch it foorward and use some tiny clamps to hold it tight in
the front, hence the 2-3 in overlap. When the surface gets a bit chunky
for my liking, I just remove the whole thing and put it in the wash with
my apron and shop towels ( since I stand at the wheel and tap the
accelerator with my hand, I use a rag there too to keep that reasonably
clean.)
I have some plastic yellow (baby brain) joint compound spreaders/putty
knives that work really well for scraping imbedded goobers of clay off
the canvas AFTER I have sprayed the surface down with water...cleans up
nice.
(bonus babble) DH installed a floor drain and we put in a rubberized
floor. I spray down the floor with water, use a scrub brush with a long
mop like handle, getting up the clay. I then use old towels, throw one
down and use my feet to scooch it around the floor and mop up the
little water/muck that is there. Looked nice when I was done. (but he
has just put tile board in the bathroom adjacent to the studio, using
the studio as his workshop- left glue marks all over the floor. So now
you can't tell if a mark is scrubbable or not- I have not had the chance
to sit on the floor and work away at the leftover glue to know if it is
possible to remove it)
But all this waits for me as I have not done much pottery post baby who
is now nearly 9 months. I'd much rather sit and hold him anyway, while
he will let me, I have heard they grow up too fast.
LJ
Who typed this all with one hand as baby has taken up the other,
sleeping so peacefully... Pics available upon request
I don't recommend canvas - too hard to keep the silica from becoming
airborn everytime you work on it.
Russel Fouts on thu 23 dec 04
I ripped the canvas off of all my tables, it was just collecting clay dust
and being difficlt to keep clean.
Now I'm down to the particle board underneath and love it. Clay sticks just
enough to be useful and the particle board (fine) gives a slight texture to
the clay. Also really easy to clean with a damp sponge. Much less clay dust
flying around the studio.
I think really good, unfinished plywood be even better but particle board
is what I have at the moment.
Russel
Russel Fouts
Mes Potes & Mes Pots
Brussels, Belgium
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Carole Fox on mon 27 dec 04
Thank you to all who replied to my request for info on worksurfaces. I am
now looking into the combination of Medex or similar over plywood based on
Vince's suggestion. I'm trying to avoid having to cover anything with
canvas, because the canvas holds too much dust for me.
Carole Fox
Dayton, OH
Where 16-24 inches of snow gave us a very rare
white Christmas and a lot of headaches!
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