Joyce LEE on sat 18 dec 04
I've used shellac many times to create a low relief on white
stoneware with Mel's shino plus extra soda ash. I much
prefer the shellac to wax for this one purpose. The result
is very natural looking...... as in not contrived. AND I so far
have gotten the peachy orange tones with some grays, blacks
and an almost white all on the same pot. =20
This thread reminds me that I want to try the shellac
resist again. I only
have two such pots left; they could have been sold many
times over. I'm hanging on to them until I can throw larger
(Tony's macho larger). Then the new ones will go Behind the
Couch, metaphorically speaking, and these will be offered for sale.=20
Joyce
In the Mojave where the westie is woofing softly and tugging
gently at my sweatshirted elbow to remind me
that she's to have a bath........ not that she wants a bath.....
she likes being dirty..... but IF I'm going to say that a bath is
in the offing, she wants it over&done NOW.
Len Cockman on tue 10 oct 06
Minwax polyurethane works great as long as you let it dry for at least 4 hours...even better if you wait until the next day (on firm leatherhard or bone dry). Julia Galloway (R.I.T. in Rochester, N.Y.) does fantastic work with this technique. Also, check out the most recent issue of Pottery Making Illustrated...neat stuff on water-mist/erosion of sorts with food coloring added to wax resist to make your drawn wax designs easier to see.
From: Marcia Selsor <selsor@IMT.NET>
Reply-To: Clayart <CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG>
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: shellac as resist
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2006 17:44:34 -0500
>On Oct 10, 2006, at 1:13 PM, Snail Scott wrote:
>
>>On Oct 9, 2006, at 1:06 PM, Lili Krakowski wrote:
>>> I
>>>tried the shellac once this Summer, it did fine....but could
>>>someone
>>>tell me
>>>will it work like wax as a resist on leather hard clay and slips?
>>
>>
>>It works fine on leather-hard; go for
it!
>>
>> -Snail
>>
>I prefer to use an acrylic medium over shellac just of the fumes. A
>friend
>of mine tried a deck sealer as a resist and he says it works even
>better.
>
>Marcia Selsor
>http://marciaselsor.com
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your
>subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.
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Snail Scott on tue 10 oct 06
On Oct 9, 2006, at 1:06 PM, Lili Krakowski wrote:
> I
> tried the shellac once this Summer, it did fine....but could someone
> tell me
> will it work like wax as a resist on leather hard clay and slips?
It works fine on leather-hard; go for it!
-Snail
Marcia Selsor on tue 10 oct 06
On Oct 10, 2006, at 1:13 PM, Snail Scott wrote:
> On Oct 9, 2006, at 1:06 PM, Lili Krakowski wrote:
>> I
>> tried the shellac once this Summer, it did fine....but could someone
>> tell me
>> will it work like wax as a resist on leather hard clay and slips?
>
>
> It works fine on leather-hard; go for it!
>
> -Snail
>
I prefer to use an acrylic medium over shellac just of the fumes. A
friend
of mine tried a deck sealer as a resist and he says it works even
better.
Marcia Selsor
http://marciaselsor.com
Marcia Selsor on wed 11 oct 06
If you go to http://www.vasefinder.com/vasefinder.nats.2006.home.html
my vase is the second shown. I used the acrylic medium for resist and
applied several layyers of colored slips and resist-washed them away.
Polyurethane also has bad fumes. I try to avoid such toxins.
Marcia Selsor
http://marciaselsor.com
On Oct 10, 2006, at 10:53 PM, Len Cockman wrote:
> Minwax polyurethane works great as long as you let it dry for at
> least 4 hours...even better if you wait until the next day (on firm
> leatherhard or bone dry). Julia Galloway (R.I.T. in Rochester,
> N.Y.) does fantastic work with this technique. Also, check out the
> most recent issue of Pottery Making Illustrated...neat stuff on
> water-mist/erosion of sorts with food coloring added to wax resist
> to make your drawn wax designs easier to see.
>
>
> From: Marcia Selsor
> Reply-To: Clayart
> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Subject: Re: shellac as resist
> Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2006 17:44:34 -0500
> >On Oct 10, 2006, at 1:13 PM, Snail Scott wrote:
> >
> >>On Oct 9, 2006, at 1:06 PM, Lili Krakowski wrote:
> >>> I
> >>>tried the shellac once this Summer, it did fine....but could
> >>>someone
> >>>tell me
> >>>will it work like wax as a resist on leather hard clay and slips?
> >>
> >>
> >>It works fine on leather-hard; go for it!
> >>
> >> -Snail
> >>
> >I prefer to use an acrylic medium over shellac just of the fumes. A
> >friend
> >of mine tried a deck sealer as a resist and he says it works even
> >better.
> >
> >Marcia Selsor
> >http://marciaselsor.com
> >
Marcia Selsor
http://marciaselsor.com
Jacqueline Miller on wed 11 oct 06
What is in acrylic medium? or is the answer acrylic? It has always sounded
more toxic to me but from what everyone is saying, it sounds like it isn't.
Jackie
On 10/11/06, Marcia Selsor wrote:
>
> If you go to http://www.vasefinder.com/vasefinder.nats.2006.home.html
> my vase is the second shown. I used the acrylic medium for resist and
> applied several layyers of colored slips and resist-washed them away.
> Polyurethane also has bad fumes. I try to avoid such toxins.
> Marcia Selsor
> http://marciaselsor.com
>
> On Oct 10, 2006, at 10:53 PM, Len Cockman wrote:
>
> > Minwax polyurethane works great as long as you let it dry for at
> > least 4 hours...even better if you wait until the next day (on firm
> > leatherhard or bone dry). Julia Galloway (R.I.T. in Rochester,
> > N.Y.) does fantastic work with this technique. Also, check out the
> > most recent issue of Pottery Making Illustrated...neat stuff on
> > water-mist/erosion of sorts with food coloring added to wax resist
> > to make your drawn wax designs easier to see.
> >
> >
> > From: Marcia Selsor
> > Reply-To: Clayart
> > To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> > Subject: Re: shellac as resist
> > Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2006 17:44:34 -0500
> > >On Oct 10, 2006, at 1:13 PM, Snail Scott wrote:
> > >
> > >>On Oct 9, 2006, at 1:06 PM, Lili Krakowski wrote:
> > >>> I
> > >>>tried the shellac once this Summer, it did fine....but could
> > >>>someone
> > >>>tell me
> > >>>will it work like wax as a resist on leather hard clay and slips?
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>It works fine on leather-hard; go for it!
> > >>
> > >> -Snail
> > >>
> > >I prefer to use an acrylic medium over shellac just of the fumes. A
> > >friend
> > >of mine tried a deck sealer as a resist and he says it works even
> > >better.
> > >
> > >Marcia Selsor
> > >http://marciaselsor.com
> > >
> Marcia Selsor
> http://marciaselsor.com
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
--
Jackie Miller
JackieAMiller@gmail.com
Marcia Selsor on thu 12 oct 06
When using acrylic paints for painting..rather than oil paints, one
uses an acrylic medium...to gloss up or extend the work time of the
paints.
I use the gloss acrylic medium but it doesn't matter if it is gloss
ot matte. I can see the gloss better on dried porcelain than a matte
finish.
In the Art Dept. where I taught for 25 years, the painting and
printmaking depts. were switching over to water-based medium to avoid
toxic fumes. Example: there have been new water-based inks developed
for silk screening. Old methods included resists containing benzene
which can destroy organs over time. Anyway, I prefer acrylic medium
with no fumes in the "green state" rather than shellac or polyurethane.
Marcia Selsor
http://marciaselsor.com
On Oct 11, 2006, at 6:52 PM, Jacqueline Miller wrote:
> What is in acrylic medium? or is the answer acrylic? It has always
> sounded
> more toxic to me but from what everyone is saying, it sounds like
> it isn't.
> Jackie
>
> On 10/11/06, Marcia Selsor wrote:
>>
>> If you go to http://www.vasefinder.com/vasefinder.nats.2006.home.html
>> my vase is the second shown. I used the acrylic medium for resist and
>> applied several layyers of colored slips and resist-washed them away.
>> Polyurethane also has bad fumes. I try to avoid such toxins.
>> Marcia Selsor
>> http://marciaselsor.com
>>
>> On Oct 10, 2006, at 10:53 PM, Len Cockman wrote:
>>
>> > Minwax polyurethane works great as long as you let it dry for at
>> > least 4 hours...even better if you wait until the next day (on firm
>> > leatherhard or bone dry). Julia Galloway (R.I.T. in Rochester,
>> > N.Y.) does fantastic work with this technique. Also, check out the
>> > most recent issue of Pottery Making Illustrated...neat stuff on
>> > water-mist/erosion of sorts with food coloring added to wax resist
>> > to make your drawn wax designs easier to see.
>> >
>> >
Marcia Selsor
http://marciaselsor.com
William & Susan Schran User on thu 12 oct 06
On 10/12/06 8:22 AM, "Marcia Selsor" wrote:
> I prefer acrylic medium
> with no fumes in the "green state" rather than shellac or polyurethane.
My students have had good luck using water based polyurethane.
Perhaps mixing some food coloring, as we do with wax emulsion, wood color
the resist making it easy to see.
-- William "Bill" Schran
Fredericksburg, Virginia
wschran@cox.net
wschran@nvcc.edu
Marcia Selsor on thu 12 oct 06
Bill,
Thanks! I didn't know there WAS water-based polyurethene. I love
sealing wood with that and haven't done it in a while.
The modern world improves for us all the time.
Marcia
Marcia Selsor
http://marciaselsor.com
On Oct 12, 2006, at 7:59 AM, William & Susan Schran User wrote:
> On 10/12/06 8:22 AM, "Marcia Selsor" wrote:
>
>> I prefer acrylic medium
>> with no fumes in the "green state" rather than shellac or
>> polyurethane.
>
> My students have had good luck using water based polyurethane.
>
> Perhaps mixing some food coloring, as we do with wax emulsion, wood
> color
> the resist making it easy to see.
>
>
> -- William "Bill" Schran
> Fredericksburg, Virginia
> wschran@cox.net
> wschran@nvcc.edu
JoyceLee on fri 13 oct 06
Thanks, Marcia, for pointing us to the Vasefinder
site. I may well join. I have, and will again,
spend more than the $19.95 to see 100 teapots etc.
I also am eager to see your work and your vase is
no exception. Thanks, too, for sharing the how-to
information.
Father Anthony's work always intrigues me, too. I've
looked at many, many of his pots.... have a whole
videotape of his work..... yet, each time new work
is available for perusal I'm surprised once again at
its simplistic power. At least that's so in my eyes;
must be that others share my opinion as evidenced by the
very high price tags that accompany any of his pieces.
I'm anxious to try your resist as described for the
lovely vase pictured on the Vasefinder site.
Joyce
In the Mojave Desert of California USA where it is
raining! Mojo apparently has forgotten that she ever
loved the rain, at least when it's accompanied by
thunder and lightning. She struts outside with obviously
unreal confidence, only to streak back in where it's
warm and dry. Guess she turned into a Desert Dog, after
all.
Marcia said:
>> Minwax polyurethane works great as long as you let it dry for at
>> least 4 hours...even better if you wait until the next day (on firm
>> leatherhard or bone dry). Julia Galloway (R.I.T. in Rochester,
>> N.Y.) does fantastic work with this technique. Also, check out the
>> most recent issue of Pottery Making Illustrated...neat stuff on
>> water-mist/erosion of sorts with food coloring added to wax resist
>> to make your drawn wax designs easier to see.
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