Venetian Cat Pottery Studio on tue 28 dec 04
I use beeswax quite a bit on Roman reproduction (and so unglazed)amphorae to waterproof the inside of the vessel so that it can hold liquids. I use the double boiler method to safely heat the wax. If you're getting smoke, then the wax is way too hot. Using the double boiler method (IE, placing a container filled with beeswax in a pot filled with just a couple of inches of water, and then bringing to a boil) prevents this problem. I have also found that warming the piece to be waxed greatly aids in absorption. It also wastes very little wax.
Best,
Julia Passamonti-Colamartino
The Venetian Cat Pottery Studio
http://venetiancat.com
Beeswaxing Unglazed Pottery
updated sat 11 dec 04
Kate Johnson on fri 10 dec 04 (graphicart@EPSI.NET)
I like the look of things polished with soft beeswax glow--non-functional items like wall plaques and such, not, obviously dishwasher stuff.
I just got some neat tiles/plaques out of the kiln and decided I preferred that soft finish for them. Here's how I went about it--I rubbed beeswax, cold, into the surface of one of the pieces and put it into the oven on the lowest heat to melt the wax, then rubbed it with a rag and my palm to smooth
it. When it's completely cool, I'll polish it again. The greenman tile has a very pleasant patina, done this way--it darkened the terra cotta and gives it a nice glow.
Two smaller plaques I heated FIRST, then rubbed with my block of beeswax so it would melt onto the surface. I rubbed it around with my thumb, and again will polish when everything is cool.
I was not wanting to melt beeswax in a container and paint it on--too much smoke, too messy...but IS that in fact the best/usual way? My way is slower, I'm sure, but rather pleasant...tactile.
(Also very similar to how I waterproof linen fabric, 18th C. style, but there I use a hot iron...doesn't waste as much wax...)
Best--
Kate
"As you change your thoughts, so you change your world." Iulia Cassia Vegetia
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