John Rodgers on fri 31 dec 04
Dawn, if you are throwing with water, STOP right now. I love to throw
with Grolleg, and my experience with this porcelain is to throw it dry,
as in minimal water. To do that you make a porcelain slurry and wet your
hands with that. It helps a great deal. Also, for wide flaring pieces or
any piece that you suspect might have a collapsing problem, work with a
propane torch by your side. Use one of those self-igniting types. Saves
a lot of aggravation. I happen to use a heat gun, but you must be
careful with the fact it is electric, and water and electricity don't
mix. But I am very, very, very careful about where the water is, and
what is damp and what is not. I don't want to wind up like a crispy fry.
I use the heat gun because it is there. I use it in my sculpture work
with oil clays (Chavant) and with the waxes I carve.
When you get the piece pulled to a certain point, dry it a bit with the
heat to stiffen it up. Then slurry your hands and pull some more. With a
little experience with the slurry thing you will figure out just how
much water to have in the slurry. Throwing with slurry is much easier
anyway, at least to me.
Good luck.
John Rodgers
Chelsea, AL
Daraburn@AOL.COM wrote:
>I am sure there is lots of info in the archives about porcelain, but my
>computer is excrutiatingly slow and I can't get much info. I work in cone 6
>stoneware, but recently tried throwing some porcelain (Glacier) and it is oh so
>wonderful...expecially to trim. I have had success throwing smaller forms (under
>5 lbs) but I am perplexed about making large forms like wide flaring bowls
>etc. without it collapsing. Does anyone have any tricks, suggestions, warnings
>:) ? I am afraid I am hooked on it now.
>
>Dawn in Tennesee
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
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>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
>
>
Victoria E. Hamilton on fri 31 dec 04
Dawn,
Your wide flaring bowls will likely require a fairly wide support in the
form of lots of clay under the wide part, that will be trimmed away later.
Also, make sure your rims are substantial - could be what holds the pot
together. There are lots of "touchy" porcelains out there. Experiment with
different kinds. Some have more guts than others.
Victoria Hamilton
Millennia Antica Pottery
Seattle, WA
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG]On Behalf Of
Daraburn@AOL.COM
Sent: Friday, December 31, 2004 12:03
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Can we talk about porcelain?
I am sure there is lots of info in the archives about porcelain, but my
computer is excrutiatingly slow and I can't get much info. I work in cone 6
stoneware, but recently tried throwing some porcelain (Glacier) and it is oh
so
wonderful...expecially to trim. I have had success throwing smaller forms
(under
5 lbs) but I am perplexed about making large forms like wide flaring bowls
etc. without it collapsing. Does anyone have any tricks, suggestions,
warnings
:) ? I am afraid I am hooked on it now.
Dawn in Tennesee
____________________________________________________________________________
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
pdp1@EARTHLINK.NET on fri 31 dec 04
Hi Dawn,
As for yer Bowls...
Throw them about 2/3rd of their final form for width, and
about all you are intending for height, and Rib them out the
rest of the way making sure your Porcelain does not get
sodden...which with Ribbing, it should not...
Even let it sit awhile sometimes, just let it turn slowly on
the Wheel, after your pulls, before Rib coaxing, before
pushing it out the
rest of the way.
You should have ne problems then, with collapseing...should
be nice and rubbery...
Phil
el ve
----- Original Message -----
From:
> I am sure there is lots of info in the archives about
porcelain, but my
> computer is excrutiatingly slow and I can't get much info.
I work in cone 6
> stoneware, but recently tried throwing some porcelain
(Glacier) and it is oh so
> wonderful...expecially to trim. I have had success
throwing smaller forms (under
> 5 lbs) but I am perplexed about making large forms like
wide flaring bowls
> etc. without it collapsing. Does anyone have any tricks,
suggestions, warnings
> :) ? I am afraid I am hooked on it now.
>
> Dawn in Tennesee
Daraburn@AOL.COM on fri 31 dec 04
I am sure there is lots of info in the archives about porcelain, but my
computer is excrutiatingly slow and I can't get much info. I work in cone 6
stoneware, but recently tried throwing some porcelain (Glacier) and it is oh so
wonderful...expecially to trim. I have had success throwing smaller forms (under
5 lbs) but I am perplexed about making large forms like wide flaring bowls
etc. without it collapsing. Does anyone have any tricks, suggestions, warnings
:) ? I am afraid I am hooked on it now.
Dawn in Tennesee
William Schran on sat 1 jan 05
At 03:02 PM 12/31/2004, you wrote:
>I am perplexed about making large forms like wide flaring bowls
>etc. without it collapsing.
Per Phil's suggestion - use a flexible rib (I prefer metal) to stretch out
the bowl form.
Throw a wide cylinder form with a curved bottom inside. Try to complete
centering & throwing fairly quickly.
Remove all water. From this point on use no water except in refining the
rim. Compress exterior with rib - this will strengthen and remove water.
Then start on the interior. Use rib to stretch out top rim - wheel slow,
you moving rib slow and slowly move down towards the bottom. You'll repeat
this several times.
By working dry, one can get very wide forms.
Bill
John Britt on sat 1 jan 05
Try double ribbing.
Works of me,
www.johnbrittpottery.com
Lee Love on sun 2 jan 05
The Chinese worked in sections. Worked thick and then lathed the form
to thin it.
Lee In Mashiko
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