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grinding stone for small area - alumina waxed porcelain

updated fri 7 jan 05

 

May Luk on wed 5 jan 05


Hi all;

For my porcelain lidded pots, I use wax mixed with alumina hydrates for the
lids and the bottoms. After firing, to make the unglazed part smooth; I sand
the bottom and all the waxed part, under water, with this white abrasive
block sold at UK ceramic supply stores [Bath Potters Supplies for me]. The
block is too big to reach to the L shape edge of the teapot opening. What's
a low tech low cost alternatives. I had tried sand paper, but it didn't
really work.

Thanks
May
London, UK

URL Krueger on wed 5 jan 05


May,

For grinding small bumps off of porcelain in small areas you
could go to your local hardware store and buy a small knife
sharpening stone. They come in all different sizes, even
some with diamonds ( for their hardness, not to wear as
jewelry ).

If you want something flexible to contour over edges you
could try what we in the States call wet-and-dry emery
paper. It is dark gray in color on more like a cloth
backing, will hold up under water, is hard enough to abrade
porcelain and comes in various grit sizes (coarse-neses or
fine-neses). If you have trouble finding it try an
automobile paint supply store. They use it for wet sanding
in between paint coats.
--
Earl K...
Bothell WA, USA
Volunteer U.S. Marine Corps 1967-1971

I remember standing beside the Wall crying for my brethern.
Not because they gave their life for their country,
but because their lives were taken for money and egos.

Beside what monument will we cry for our children?

pdp1@EARTHLINK.NET on wed 5 jan 05


Hi May,


I think you could use a waterproof Glue or aerosol spray
adhesive, to adhere Silicon Caride abrasive Paper to
something of a more convenient size and shape...

Or, find some smaller verions of the same kind of Stone you
are useing...or smaller versions of a similar Stone...

Or, find someone with a Diamond Wet-Wheel, (Lapidary, Saw
Sharpening Shops, people who lay Tile as may also cut them)
and have them cut your Stone, or another like it, into some
smaller pieces...and or to shape the smaller pieces as well,
to suit the tasks which you need for these Stones to do.


Phil
el ve


----- Original Message -----
From: "May Luk"

> Hi all;
>
> For my porcelain lidded pots, I use wax mixed with alumina
hydrates for the
> lids and the bottoms. After firing, to make the unglazed
part smooth; I sand
> the bottom and all the waxed part, under water, with this
white abrasive
> block sold at UK ceramic supply stores [Bath Potters
Supplies for me]. The
> block is too big to reach to the L shape edge of the
teapot opening. What's
> a low tech low cost alternatives. I had tried sand paper,
but it didn't
> really work.
>
> Thanks
> May
> London, UK

Liz Willoughby on wed 5 jan 05


Hello May,
What I have found to be the most reliable thing for smoothing the
lids and seats of a teapot or covered jar, is "valve grinding
compound". I get this in a automotive store. It is like a sauve. I
just dab a little on the seat of the rim, cover with the lid, and
twist a few times. Comes out as smooth as a baby's bottom.
Good luck,
Liz from Grafton, Ontario, Canada.

>Hi all;
>
>For my porcelain lidded pots, I use wax mixed with alumina hydrates for the
>lids and the bottoms. After firing, to make the unglazed part smooth; I sand
>the bottom and all the waxed part, under water, with this white abrasive
>block sold at UK ceramic supply stores [Bath Potters Supplies for me]. The
>block is too big to reach to the L shape edge of the teapot opening. What's
>a low tech low cost alternatives. I had tried sand paper, but it didn't
>really work.
>
>Thanks
>May
London, UK

--

Tig Dupre on thu 6 jan 05


---------------------------------<>-----------------------------------
For my porcelain lidded pots, I use wax mixed with alumina hydrates for the
lids and the bottoms. After firing, to make the unglazed part smooth; I sand
the bottom and all the waxed part, under water, with this white abrasive
block sold at UK ceramic supply stores [Bath Potters Supplies for me]. The
block is too big to reach to the L shape edge of the teapot opening. What's
a low tech low cost alternatives. I had tried sand paper, but it didn't
really work.
---------------------------------<>-----------------------------------

May,

One of the tricks I have used is to make a paste of scouring powder and water.
Spread a fair coat of the paste on the surface to be polished--the gallery
and lid of the pot in this case. Slowly turn the lid against the gallery,
adding more paste as necessary. After about ten turns, the gallery and
lid will fit and rotate smoothly.

Just about any abrasive will work, but scouring powder seems to be the best. In
a pinch, use some plain old whiting as your abrasive.

Best of luck,

Tig Dupre
in Port Orchard, Washington, USA