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yellow raku?

updated tue 18 jan 05

 

LEON on sun 16 jan 05


Hello Everyone,
This is actually my first post to clayart, even though I've been lurking =
for several years. I had a question for some of the more chemically =
minded of you out there. This holiday season I attempted to create, what =
I thought would be, a nice warm yellow raku glaze without using =
vanadium. I used the old '80-20' Gerstley Neph. formula and then added =
about 6% rutile to taste. It seems to come out very gray and never seems =
to melt completely. I've got a low fire recipe from Mark Burleson's book =
"The Ceramic Glaze Handbook" called 'Honey' that has fired perfectly at =
^05 oxidation. Does anyone know of a reason why rutile wouldn't go =
yellow for me in reduction? Do any of you have a decent yellow raku =
glaze that doesn't use vanadium or some other stain?
(I know- I know - Check the archives)

Oh, my name is Robert Briggs and my wife and I run a small ceramics shop =
in Missouri called 'Corvus Moon' It's nice to meet you all. Come by my =
website and catch some flash video of me ruining some raku pottery ;-)=20
www.corvusmoon.com

Larry Kruzan on sun 16 jan 05


Hi Robert,

Thanks for the link, I really like the videos of the Raku process.
With your permission I'd like to link to them for a lecture I'm giving
next month.

Thanks
Larry Kruzan
Lost Creek Pottery

On Jan 16, 2005, at 12:21 PM, LEON wrote:

> Hello Everyone,
> This is actually my first post to clayart, even though I've been
> lurking for several years. I had a question for some of the more
> chemically minded of you out there. This holiday season I attempted to
> create, what I thought would be, a nice warm yellow raku glaze without
> using vanadium. I used the old '80-20' Gerstley Neph. formula and then
> added about 6% rutile to taste. It seems to come out very gray and
> never seems to melt completely. I've got a low fire recipe from Mark
> Burleson's book "The Ceramic Glaze Handbook" called 'Honey' that has
> fired perfectly at ^05 oxidation. Does anyone know of a reason why
> rutile wouldn't go yellow for me in reduction? Do any of you have a
> decent yellow raku glaze that doesn't use vanadium or some other
> stain?
> (I know- I know - Check the archives)
>
> Oh, my name is Robert Briggs and my wife and I run a small ceramics
> shop in Missouri called 'Corvus Moon' It's nice to meet you all.
> Come by my website and catch some flash video of me ruining some raku
> pottery ;-)
> www.corvusmoon.com
>
> _______________________________________________________________________
> _______
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>

Mike Gordon on sun 16 jan 05


Robert,
I had some success with adding some low fire comercial,yellow glaze to
the same mix you described and got yellow crackle. Mike Gordon
On Jan 16, 2005, at 10:21 AM, LEON wrote:

> Hello Everyone,
> This is actually my first post to clayart, even though I've been
> lurking for several years. I had a question for some of the more
> chemically minded of you out there. This holiday season I attempted to
> create, what I thought would be, a nice warm yellow raku glaze without
> using vanadium. I used the old '80-20' Gerstley Neph. formula and then
> added about 6% rutile to taste. It seems to come out very gray and
> never seems to melt completely. I've got a low fire recipe from Mark
> Burleson's book "The Ceramic Glaze Handbook" called 'Honey' that has
> fired perfectly at ^05 oxidation. Does anyone know of a reason why
> rutile wouldn't go yellow for me in reduction? Do any of you have a
> decent yellow raku glaze that doesn't use vanadium or some other
> stain?
> (I know- I know - Check the archives)
>
> Oh, my name is Robert Briggs and my wife and I run a small ceramics
> shop in Missouri called 'Corvus Moon' It's nice to meet you all.
> Come by my website and catch some flash video of me ruining some raku
> pottery ;-)
> www.corvusmoon.com
>
> _______________________________________________________________________
> _______
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>

Shawn McGuire on mon 17 jan 05


Hi Robert,
You could sub Red Iron Oxide for the Rutile, 5% or so should give you a nice yellow in an 80/20 base. It will be a transparent, earthy yellow crackle. An opacifier like zircopax, or tin might punch up the glaze a bit and make it more or a creamy yellow, would certainly be worth a test. Not sure what kind of yellow your going for but I hope this helps.
over-and-out,
~S~

LEON on mon 17 jan 05


Thanks for the iron info.
Sometimes I get my 'Oxidation/Reduction' wires crossed.

Robert (Leon) Briggs
www.corvusmoon.com


> Hi Robert,
> You could sub Red Iron Oxide for the Rutile, 5% or so should give you a
nice yellow in an 80/20 base. It will be a transparent, earthy yellow
crackle. An opacifier like zircopax, or tin might punch up the glaze a bit
and make it more or a creamy yellow, would certainly be worth a test. Not
sure what kind of yellow your going for but I hope this helps.
> over-and-out,
> ~S~
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>