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cutting kiln posts

updated sat 22 jan 05

 

Craig Clark on wed 19 jan 05


Bill, I cut a few dozen of the longer kiln posts that were seldom
used down to more usable size when I was in school. All I used was the
chop-saw in the metal shop with an abrasive disk. It worked great. That
was about fifteen years ago now and I believe they still have the posts.
Hope this helps
Craig Dunn Clark
619 East 11 1/2 st
Houston, Texas 77008
(713)861-2083
mudman@hal-pc.org

william schran on wed 19 jan 05


At school we have a variety of kiln posts - square with rounded
corners, round ones and squarish ones with a round center, that are
somewhat thicker than the others. All are made (I assume) of the
same/similar materials as the corderite kiln shelves.
Have two dozen of the thicker ones that are rather long, probably 14"
or more. I'd like to cut some of these down to smaller sizes that we
use more often.
If I rent a power wet saw should I get tile cutter or brick cutter?
Also realize I'll probably have to buy a diamond blade.
Thanks for you input,
Bill, in Fredericksburg, Va where we got our first snow of the season
- about an inch or two, so everybody goes nuts, drives too fast,
completely forgetting about the stopping part of driving.

Cindy in SD on wed 19 jan 05


I bought a tile saw for $70. It would have cost $45 to rent one, then I
would have it for just one day, and would have to purchase a blade. (My
saw came with a blade included.) It isn't a saw for a professional tile
guy/girl, but it's adequate for my needs. Got it at Menards, and it
wasn't the cheapest model they carried. So check purchase prices before
you rent. I haven't tried to cut kiln posts with it, but it works great
for tile. I would have to roll the posts to cut them on my saw, because
it is able to cut items of up to an inch thick only.

Good luck with your project,
Cindy in SD

John Bandurchin on wed 19 jan 05


----- Original Message -----
From: "william schran"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, January 19, 2005 4:44 PM
Subject: cutting kiln posts

I've cut kiln posts and kiln shelves with my cheapie home handyman type
table saw with a masonry blade in it. They're not expensive at all. It was
really handy to cut a shelf in half when it developed a crack from the edge
toward the middle. Also handy to cut up bits of shelf to use as short
posts.
The masonry blade cut through the shelf material easily, but the dust is
nasty. I'd never do it inside a shop or garage - strictly outdoors.

John Bandurchin
Baltimore Ontario

Only down to about 25f today - getting some snow.

pdp1@EARTHLINK.NET on wed 19 jan 05


Hi John,


Yahhhhhh...I was kinda thinking the same thing, in an
academic way, since I have never done it.


One could also do this readily with say, a Skilsaw, useing
(as you say,) a Masonry Blade...by...

Making a simple little jig to hold the stilt closely, for
the Saw to pass over it securely, and, to do so with a
Garden Hose playing on it for keeping the dusts down.

Skilsaws used to, and, I think still do, have an accessory
allowing one to affix a Garden Hose for just such occasions,
so it is not as if the Saws themselves are not expected by
their Manufacturer to enjoy this kind of use.

By the term Skilsaw, I do mean properly, the ' Worm Drive'
sort, and not to connote just any Electric Saw merely.

Too, one could allways wear some rubber-gloves if one
liked...if feeling dicey about that 'water' and so on...and
or to use some maybe not quite a 'Skilsaw' for the task...

Anyway, if it was me, that's what I'd try...


Phil
el ve

----- Original Message -----
From: "John Bandurchin"

> I've cut kiln posts and kiln shelves with my cheapie home
handyman type
> table saw with a masonry blade in it. They're not
expensive at all. It was
> really handy to cut a shelf in half when it developed a
crack from the edge
> toward the middle. Also handy to cut up bits of shelf to
use as short
> posts.
> The masonry blade cut through the shelf material easily,
but the dust is
> nasty. I'd never do it inside a shop or garage - strictly
outdoors.
>
> John Bandurchin
> Baltimore Ontario
>
> Only down to about 25f today - getting some snow.

Louis Katz on wed 19 jan 05


Every infrequent time I have rented a brick saw I have also cut down
broken posts. I keep them out of the way.
I start by cutting a new face on the good side of the post so that any
crud that has accumulated is cut off. When I have one clean face on all
the broken posts I then cut the posts down to the nearest inch,
carefully mounting a stop on the saw so that the sizes are perfect.
Last time I did this I used a 12" or so abrasive blade on a big saw. I
am considering doing it on my cheesy tile saw. I don't think it will
matter much either way. I would not rent a saw to do this as I don't
build up that many posts that a re broken and long enough to be worth
the trouble.
I also use abrasive blades to score hard Fire brick to break a nine
inch straight into four nice 4.5 inch posts. If there is still some
blade left I have scored squares into electric kiln shelves to break
them into neat short posts.
Louis
KE5CVK
on Ehcolink late into the night. Learning about SKYPE.

On Jan 19, 2005, at 3:44 PM, william schran wrote:

> At school we have a variety of kiln posts - square with rounded
> corners, round ones and squarish ones with a round center, that are
> somewhat thicker than the others. All are made (I assume) of the
> same/similar materials as the corderite kiln shelves.
> Have two dozen of the thicker ones that are rather long, probably 14"
> or more. I'd like to cut some of these down to smaller sizes that we
> use more often.
> If I rent a power wet saw should I get tile cutter or brick cutter?
> Also realize I'll probably have to buy a diamond blade.
> Thanks for you input,
> Bill, in Fredericksburg, Va where we got our first snow of the season
> - about an inch or two, so everybody goes nuts, drives too fast,
> completely forgetting about the stopping part of driving.
>
> _______________________________________________________________________
> _______
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
Louis Katz
WIKI site http://www.tamucc.edu/wiki/Katz/HomePage

Ivor and Olive Lewis on thu 20 jan 05


Dear William Schran,
It is probable, if these posts have been fired, they will be
embrittled.
So cut slowly under a good flow of coolant. Water with a wetting agent
would be ideal.
Best regards,
Ivor Lewis.
Redhill,
S. Australia.

William Sheppard on thu 20 jan 05


William Schran,

As a second generation ceramic tile setter (many years ago) I know
aboout tile wet saws.

A couple of years ago I was getting agravated that many of my kiln
shelf posts were not perfectly square on their ends as they were when they
were new. I could not get a stack of split shelves to stay lined up edge to
edge and be stable as I loaded my kilns. I borrowed a ceramic tile wet saw
from an old friend and trimmed a couple hundred posts in an hour or so.
The advantages of the tile wet saw are these: 1. This is the correct tool
to cut ceramic material. 2. The thin metal diamond encrusted blade cut a
very fine edge on the posts. 3. The sliding table with its adjustable stop
gauge makes cutting all posts to the exact same lenght very easy. 4. The
water is automatically pumped from the tub the saw sits on top of
directally to the cutting area. BE SURE TO DRY YOUR NEWLY TRIMMED KILN
FURNITURE BEFORE YOU FIRE A KILN LOAD WITH IT. A low heat soak in the kiln
worked for me.

William A. Sheppard

http://www.patyoungceramicarts.com

Gosh it sure got cold here in Florida this week. The temp dropped
into the 40's (above zero). For a few crazy years I lived in Wausau,
Wisconsin. I saw many a day near 40 BELOW ZERO. I LOVE Florida, where I
was born.

Kathy McDonald on thu 20 jan 05


I have always just taken my posts to a mason who has a masonery saw...
the risks to other saws and blades are just too high IMHO.
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG]On Behalf Of Cindy in SD
Sent: Wednesday, January 19, 2005 5:05 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: cutting kiln posts


I bought a tile saw for $70. It would have cost $45 to rent one, then I
would have it for just one day, and would have to purchase a blade. (My
saw came with a blade included.) It isn't a saw for a professional tile
guy/girl, but it's adequate for my needs. Got it at Menards, and it
wasn't the cheapest model they carried. So check purchase prices before
you rent. I haven't tried to cut kiln posts with it, but it works great
for tile. I would have to roll the posts to cut them on my saw, because
it is able to cut items of up to an inch thick only.

Good luck with your project,
Cindy in SD

____________________________________________________________________________
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org

You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
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melpots@pclink.com.

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j e motzkin on fri 21 jan 05


One of my all time best and treasured tools is a masonry
chisel. Get regular hard bricks or soaps, score a line
and tap with a chisel to make 1/2 or 1/4 brick posts.
simple. You can get 4 posts out of each brick. cheap.
Also good for breaking up old kiln shelves for smaller
posts.
judy motzkin

www.motzkin.com
http://spiritkeeper-urns.com





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