wjskw@BELLSOUTH.NET on thu 20 jan 05
Mel:
In another life, I worked in a factory. We often had to make
extremely small tools for various reasons, a tiny chisel being one
of them, for squaring up corners in sheet metal parts, hand etching
ferrules into tools, etc. My dad showed me this trick in our
basement one night, and I taught lots of guys the trick at work. It
made for some interesting lunch hours, with the boss shaking his
head and learning too.
Find an old drill bit, of a diameter approximate to the width of the
chisel you need.
On the cutting (spiral) end of the bit, grind it flat, perpendicular
to the shaft.
On the end of the bit that you would normally put into the drill
(motor), grind your two sides parallel, and thin them to the
thickness you need. Then grind the face to the proper cutting angle
for your purpose (make it look like the end of a chisel, ok?)
All this grinding is going to remove the temper (hardness) of the
steel bit, so you will have to re-harden it as follows:
A small nod to Monona: DO THIS OUTSIDE! TAKE PROPER PRECAUTIONS, AND
WEAR APPROPRIATE SAFETY EQUIPMENT...
Pour about a quart of motor oil into a metal coffee can set onto a
non-combustible surface. No, your driveway can burn...find a
sidewalk or a piece of Hardieboard or concrete block or bricks,
something like that. No, NOT the top of the electric kiln!
Heat the newly formed "chisel" to glowing red with a propane torch,
while holding the chisel with a pair of pliers. Wear gloves.
While the chisel is still glowing, drop it into the oil. DO NOT
stand over the can while doing this, as the oil might flash, or spit
back at you, and can cause severe burns. Leave it there until cool.
You may need to repeat the last two steps a few times to get the
hardness you need. This will be a surface-hardened tool only, fine
for wood, plastics, perhaps aluminum. Not good for concrete or
stronger metals. You can re-sharpen it whenever you need with your
grinding wheel, and re-harden it as you see fit.
Once you've got the hardess you want (try a test cut on a block of
2X4,) cut a small piece of wood in a comfortable diameter to a
length slightly shorter than the length of the spiral part of your
chisel, and through the center (lengthwise) drill a hole slightly
smaller than the diameter of your chisel. Drive the wood down over
the spiral until the end reaches the flattened metal end of the
spiral. This end (the exposed shank) is the part you will tap with
your hammer as you chisel. No, not your thumb
I've made chisels this way with drill bits as small as 1/32 inch
(0.79mm). The wood handle is only to protect your fingers from the
sharp flutes on the drill bit. You can use tape or rubber/plastic
tubing if you prefer. If you are going to hand chisel, like a
woodcarving tool, do not drill completely through the wood handle,
so that your hand remains protected from the chisel shank by some
wood. To keep it from spinning in the handle, a few drops of epoxy
work well.
Have fun. You can make all manner of shapes and sizes.
BTW, I've also made a few of these for use as carving tools for
leather hard clay, but I wouldn't want to give anyone any ideas, now
would I :>)
Best,
Wayne Seidl
i have used a dremel tool/electric drill and or other
devices to work the image. a tiny, very sharp chisel
is a great helper. (hard to find, so you may have to make it.)
Ivor and Olive Lewis on fri 21 jan 05
Dear Mel,
Among the best text for those who did not have the chance to learn
mech shop skills from pro technics teachers is a thin volume by
Alexander G. Weygers, "The Modern Blacksmith" ISBN 0898158966.
I like the set up on page 9.
Folk who change the temper of steel of unknown composition should take
care if they are making chisels. If quenched steel is not tempered to
the correct degree it is liable to snap or spall when hit. The head of
the chisel is best left to air cool after the tip is quenched.
Best regards,
Ivor Lewis.
Redhill,
S. Australia
Joe and Lisa Troncale on fri 21 jan 05
I just wanted to say to the group that I make my stamps just like I make
pots, (out of clay and fire them.)
Joe Troncale
----- Original Message -----
From:
To:
Sent: Thursday, January 20, 2005 8:40 AM
Subject: Toolmaking for making stamps
Mel:
In another life, I worked in a factory. We often had to make
extremely small tools for various reasons, a tiny chisel being one
of them, for squaring up corners in sheet metal parts, hand etching
ferrules into tools, etc. My dad showed me this trick in our
basement one night, and I taught lots of guys the trick at work. It
made for some interesting lunch hours, with the boss shaking his
head and learning too.
Find an old drill bit, of a diameter approximate to the width of the
chisel you need.
On the cutting (spiral) end of the bit, grind it flat, perpendicular
to the shaft.
On the end of the bit that you would normally put into the drill
(motor), grind your two sides parallel, and thin them to the
thickness you need. Then grind the face to the proper cutting angle
for your purpose (make it look like the end of a chisel, ok?)
All this grinding is going to remove the temper (hardness) of the
steel bit, so you will have to re-harden it as follows:
A small nod to Monona: DO THIS OUTSIDE! TAKE PROPER PRECAUTIONS, AND
WEAR APPROPRIATE SAFETY EQUIPMENT...
Pour about a quart of motor oil into a metal coffee can set onto a
non-combustible surface. No, your driveway can burn...find a
sidewalk or a piece of Hardieboard or concrete block or bricks,
something like that. No, NOT the top of the electric kiln!
Heat the newly formed "chisel" to glowing red with a propane torch,
while holding the chisel with a pair of pliers. Wear gloves.
While the chisel is still glowing, drop it into the oil. DO NOT
stand over the can while doing this, as the oil might flash, or spit
back at you, and can cause severe burns. Leave it there until cool.
You may need to repeat the last two steps a few times to get the
hardness you need. This will be a surface-hardened tool only, fine
for wood, plastics, perhaps aluminum. Not good for concrete or
stronger metals. You can re-sharpen it whenever you need with your
grinding wheel, and re-harden it as you see fit.
Once you've got the hardess you want (try a test cut on a block of
2X4,) cut a small piece of wood in a comfortable diameter to a
length slightly shorter than the length of the spiral part of your
chisel, and through the center (lengthwise) drill a hole slightly
smaller than the diameter of your chisel. Drive the wood down over
the spiral until the end reaches the flattened metal end of the
spiral. This end (the exposed shank) is the part you will tap with
your hammer as you chisel. No, not your thumb
I've made chisels this way with drill bits as small as 1/32 inch
(0.79mm). The wood handle is only to protect your fingers from the
sharp flutes on the drill bit. You can use tape or rubber/plastic
tubing if you prefer. If you are going to hand chisel, like a
woodcarving tool, do not drill completely through the wood handle,
so that your hand remains protected from the chisel shank by some
wood. To keep it from spinning in the handle, a few drops of epoxy
work well.
Have fun. You can make all manner of shapes and sizes.
BTW, I've also made a few of these for use as carving tools for
leather hard clay, but I wouldn't want to give anyone any ideas, now
would I :>)
Best,
Wayne Seidl
i have used a dremel tool/electric drill and or other
devices to work the image. a tiny, very sharp chisel
is a great helper. (hard to find, so you may have to make it.)
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