Ann Brink on tue 1 mar 05
I have been toying with the idea of using just the top section of my Skutt
1027 to do some glass slumping. I figure I would build up shelving to near
the top of the middle section, put down a layer of refractory fiber way to
the edges, in an attempt to retain the heat in the top part, then place my
shelf on that.
If anyone has tried something like this, I'd like to hear from you. The
only problem I can forsee is possible stress on bricks/jacket from the great
heat differential between the top & bottom parts of the kiln.
Glad to have CLAYART back- thanks to all who fixed it!
Ann Brink in Lompoc CA
Marvin Klotz on tue 1 mar 05
Hi Ann,
I have an L & L JD230, which I believe is similar in many ways to the Skutt
1027, and have used it a few times to fuse and slump glass. I didn't do
anything to partition off areas of the kiln other than putting in shelf
posts and shelves since I just wanted to use the top section. Everything
went well and there was no obvious damage to the kiln. The Dynatrol
controller has a feature that results in the kiln being turned off if it
detects more than a 100o difference between thermocouples but this feature
can be turned off if you like - and I did like because I flash cool during
the slumping procedure (by lifting the kiln lid briefly). Possibly the
Skutt controller has a similar feature which will need overiding.
Good luck,
Joan Klotz.
At 04:16 PM 3/1/2005, you wrote:
>I have been toying with the idea of using just the top section of my Skutt
>1027 to do some glass slumping.
>
>If anyone has tried something like this, I'd like to hear from you. The
>only problem I can forsee is possible stress on bricks/jacket from the great
>heat differential between the top & bottom parts of the kiln.
Marvin Klotz on wed 2 mar 05
Perhaps your question was for Arnold but I'll pipe in anyway. The first
time I used my kiln for glasswork I had no problem with sticking, using the
same kiln wash as I do for stoneware (equal amounts of Alumina Hydride, EPK
and Silica). The second time I had just redone all of my shelves and the
glass stuck - same kiln wash unless somebody goofed mixing it. Since COE
tested glass is so expensive, and since glass fusing is just an occasional
diversion for me, I decided to just buy the kiln wash sold by my glass
supplier. It would just have taken up too much of my time to play around
trying to come up with something reliable. Don't know what the recipe is -
big secret apparently, but the glass doesn't stick anymore. If anyone
knows the secret do tell.
Joan Klotz
At 12:39 PM 3/2/2005, you wrote:
>Can you tell me if there was any problem with the glass melting to the
>shelves?
>Pat
Arnold Howard on wed 2 mar 05
Ann, I know of many people who fire glass in ceramic kilns. But they use the
entire kiln rather than attempt to keep the heat in a section of the kiln.
We held a glass fusing seminar at Paragon in 1985 and fired all the glass in
an 8-sided, switch-operated ceramic kiln. The pieces were beautiful. We
fired the glass on shelves that were evenly spaced throughout the firing
chamber.
The kiln must be fired slowly, and you must be able to see the glass through
the peepholes. Firing glass is visual. The process is simplified if you can
see the glass as it fires.
Sincerely,
Arnold Howard
Paragon Industries, L.P., Mesquite, Texas USA
arnoldhoward@att.net / www.paragonweb.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ann Brink"
>I have been toying with the idea of using just the top section of my Skutt
> 1027 to do some glass slumping. I figure I would build up shelving to
> near
> the top of the middle section, put down a layer of refractory fiber way to
> the edges, in an attempt to retain the heat in the top part, then place my
> shelf on that.
Pat Crowe on wed 2 mar 05
Can you tell me if there was any problem with the glass melting to the
shelves?
Pat
Arnold Howard wrote:
> Ann, I know of many people who fire glass in ceramic kilns. But they
> use the
> entire kiln rather than attempt to keep the heat in a section of the
> kiln.
>
> We held a glass fusing seminar at Paragon in 1985 and fired all the
> glass in
> an 8-sided, switch-operated ceramic kiln. The pieces were beautiful. We
> fired the glass on shelves that were evenly spaced throughout the firing
> chamber.
>
> The kiln must be fired slowly, and you must be able to see the glass
> through
> the peepholes. Firing glass is visual. The process is simplified if
> you can
> see the glass as it fires.
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Arnold Howard
> Paragon Industries, L.P., Mesquite, Texas USA
> arnoldhoward@att.net / www.paragonweb.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ann Brink"
>
>> I have been toying with the idea of using just the top section of my
>> Skutt
>> 1027 to do some glass slumping. I figure I would build up shelving to
>> near
>> the top of the middle section, put down a layer of refractory fiber
>> way to
>> the edges, in an attempt to retain the heat in the top part, then
>> place my
>> shelf on that.
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
>
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>
>
Arnold Howard on wed 2 mar 05
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pat Crowe"
> Can you tell me if there was any problem with the glass melting to the
> shelves?
> Pat
Kiln wash or glass separator will prevent the glass from sticking to the
shelves. ("Glass separator" is finely ground kiln wash.) Some people use
fiber paper instead of glass separator.
Sincerely,
Arnold Howard
Paragon Industries, L.P., Mesquite, Texas USA
arnoldhoward@att.net / www.paragonweb.com
Arnold Howard on thu 3 mar 05
----- Original Message -----
From: "Marvin Klotz"
> Perhaps your question was for Arnold but I'll pipe in anyway. The first
> time I used my kiln for glasswork I had no problem with sticking, using
> the
> same kiln wash as I do for stoneware (equal amounts of Alumina Hydride,
> EPK
> and Silica). The second time I had just redone all of my shelves and the
> glass stuck - same kiln wash unless somebody goofed mixing it. Since COE
> tested glass is so expensive, and since glass fusing is just an occasional
> diversion for me, I decided to just buy the kiln wash sold by my glass
> supplier. It would just have taken up too much of my time to play around
> trying to come up with something reliable. Don't know what the recipe
> is -
> big secret apparently, but the glass doesn't stick anymore. If anyone
> knows the secret do tell.
I've never had glass stick to a shelf. But I have discovered that the higher
the temperature, the more the glass sticks to the kiln wash/glass separator.
At low temperature glass fusing, the glass separator remains in good
condition on the shelf for many firings.
Sincerely,
Arnold Howard
Paragon Industries, L.P., Mesquite, Texas USA
arnoldhoward@att.net / www.paragonweb.com
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