Sam Hoffman on sat 12 mar 05
It has taken me quite a while, but I have finally gotten around to
posting some glaze tests on my website. These are some of the oilspot,
kaki, hare's fur, tenmoku glazes that John Britt put out there for us
to work on. Check out my results at:
http://www.samhoffman.com/GlazeTests.html
Some of the tests are breathtaking; quite like some of the traditional
Chinese glazes. Thanks, John, for the motivation/inspirations to get
started with these glazes. Now, as folks like Tony have pointed out,
the trick is to get some good forms for these surfaces! I am starting
to think there is a very good reason why shallow bowls were a
preference for the Chinese potters...
I can't wait to see some of Mel's pots in person at NCECA-the photos
look amazing.
I'll be bringing my best bowls to the NCECA ClayArt room to talk about
with John and others. I look forward to getting some feedback.
One word to the wise-John is absolutely right about how some of these
glazes have the potential to flow. I fortunately used some catching
pedestals, which caught the run-off that happened in the first few
tries. Once I figured out application & firing temp, I have begun to
fire without the catching trays. Still, I reckon I would have lost
many a kiln shelf had I not taken this precaution...
Black is beautiful!
-Sam
S.L. Hoffman Pottery
Corvallis, Oregon
www.samhoffman.com
John Britt on sat 12 mar 05
Sam is the man now!! Excellent job.
AMAZING reuslts.
Also, remember that Jennifer Boyer had some good results at :
http://thistlehillpottery.com/brittglazetests.html
So we made the deadline and had no whining or complaining. Wow.
I can show you how to make the super secret drip ring too.
It is very heartening to see people actually put out the effort that is
necessary to achieve results. The first step is always the hardest!
John Britt
www.johnbrittpottery.com
Donalson on sun 13 mar 05
Echoing JB's post, Sam is the man! Sam you did a fabulous job on these =
glazes, opening all of our eyes to the magical colors of iron, fired in =
an electric kiln. What a tremendous compliment to the work that Joe and =
Mel have been doing. What a surprise RR's OMB is in oxidation! =
Dorothy's SG12 is as beautiful a glaze as anyone could want. From your =
website it looks as if SG12 is not a heavy runner, for those of us not =
attending NCECA could you pass along a few details regarding specific =
application techniques and firing details, length of soak, quick cool =
etc? Perhaps we can encourage JB to reprint his list of glazes that your =
fine examples were taken from.
Man I am blown away with your results, my L&L is no longer going to be =
used for "bisque only" I can assure you.
Thanks for doing the diligent research that it took to come up with such =
spectacular glazes and thanks a hundred fold for sharing the results!
Craig AZ
Sam Hoffman on sun 13 mar 05
Hi Lee-
Thanks for the comments. I think that your recommendation to tier the
glaze application is a good one. I have been doing this to a certain
extent with the multiple applications of glaze layers. Do I remember
correctly that you have two batches of Irabo mixed up, one thick, the
other thin? The pooling I got on the inside of the bowls was great,
but the crawling/running that I had on the first firing was a bit
excessive!
Good luck with these glazes in your wood kiln; should work just great!
-Sam
PS- Give my best to Jean; is winter letting up at all yet?
S.L. Hoffman Pottery
Corvallis, Oregon
www.samhoffman.com
On Mar 12, 2005, at 6:41 PM, Lee Love wrote:
> Sam Hoffman wrote:
>
>>
>> http://www.samhoffman.com/GlazeTests.html
>
> These look great Sam! I am going to do tests in the oxidation spot
> in my woodkiln next firing. I had good luck with Candice Black
> from
> John's book (converted to Japanese materials), just need to fire it
> thicker. I want a mat iron yellow. Hehe, I will share the
> "secret."
>
> I am wondering Sam, if my teacher's technique, of
> putting a thin application at the bottom of the pot with a "normal"
> application dipped at the top, would help with shelf runs? Maybe the
> bottom half doesn't need to be thinner, but the bottom quarter or
> third?
> You can see how it works with my Hamada Irabo:
>
> http://potters.blogspot.com/
>
> Look under the skeleton!
>
> --
> Lee in Mashiko, Japan http://mashiko.org
> http://potters.blogspot.com/ WEB LOG
> http://claycraft.blogspot.com/ Photos!
>
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Lee Love on sun 13 mar 05
Sam Hoffman wrote:
>
> http://www.samhoffman.com/GlazeTests.html
These look great Sam! I am going to do tests in the oxidation spot
in my woodkiln next firing. I had good luck with Candice Black from
John's book (converted to Japanese materials), just need to fire it
thicker. I want a mat iron yellow. Hehe, I will share the "secret."
I am wondering Sam, if my teacher's technique, of
putting a thin application at the bottom of the pot with a "normal"
application dipped at the top, would help with shelf runs? Maybe the
bottom half doesn't need to be thinner, but the bottom quarter or third?
You can see how it works with my Hamada Irabo:
http://potters.blogspot.com/
Look under the skeleton!
--
Lee in Mashiko, Japan http://mashiko.org
http://potters.blogspot.com/ WEB LOG
http://claycraft.blogspot.com/ Photos!
Lee Love on mon 14 mar 05
Sam Hoffman wrote:
> Hi Lee-
>
> Thanks for the comments. I think that your recommendation to
> tier the
> glaze application is a good one. I have been doing this to a certain
> extent with the multiple applications of glaze layers. Do I remember
> correctly that you have two batches of Irabo mixed up, one thick, the
> other thin?
Yes, I have in the past. This is how my teacher used Irabo.
But what I found in the last couple firings, is that because the glaze
is fluid, all I have to do is brush a thin coat at the bottom, then dip
the top, with a regular thickness. This way, I don't have to split
the glaze and remove most of the water when I glaze the next time.
> PS- Give my best to Jean; is winter letting up at all yet?
I will tell her. We've had a bit of show and was windy
today, but it is very mild compared to what we are used to in
Minnesota. Now that I am home all the time, we have figured out
interior heating, including my keeping the studio warm with the
woodkiln. Jean doesn't like to play with fire that much. ;-)
Hey, take a look at my idea of a little "add-on" to my wood
kiln, to use my fireboxes in a similar way of the experimental kiln you
told me about from up North: http://makigama.blogspot.com/
--
in Mashiko, Japan http://mashiko.org
http://potters.blogspot.com/ WEB LOG
http://claycraft.blogspot.com/ Photos!
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