Vince Pitelka on wed 9 mar 05
>I think that Vince Pitelka's method could be considered complicated. A
>simpler, but I like the Val Cushing way. Its easy and works very well.
First, please sign your posts with a name. Second, it really is not complex
at all, and it gives a superior terra sig. You do need to have an
appropriate hydrometer, but otherwise it is a simple process. It all
depends the quality of terra sig you want to end up with.
Best wishes -
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Craft, Tennessee Technological University
Smithville TN 37166, 615/597-6801 x111
vpitelka@dtccom.net, wpitelka@tntech.edu
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka/
http://www.tntech.edu/craftcenter/
Claudia MacPhee on thu 10 mar 05
Hi All, When I got the brainwave to try terra sig on my pots I did minimal
research-just found Vince's receipe and made it up (I didn't even know there
were other ones). It worked perfectly. Also I had quartered the receipe.
Very simple and the result was wonderful. The first time I put it on a pot
and it got so shiny with a little rubbing with a plastic bag I was hooked.
Everytime I use it I give him a 'Thank You'.
Claudia MacPhee in Tagish, Yukon-waiting for the first Trumpter Swans to
arrive, should be any day now
scott@explorethejourney.org on thu 10 mar 05
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So what is the Val Cushing way?
scott jarrett
----- Original Message -----
From: Vince Pitelka
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Cc:
Date:
Subject: Re: terra sig method
>I think that Vince Pitelka's method could be considered complicated. A
>simpler, but I like the Val Cushing way. Its easy and works very well.
First, please sign your posts with a name. Second, it really is not complex
at all, and it gives a superior terra sig. You do need to have an
appropriate hydrometer, but otherwise it is a simple process. It all
depends the quality of terra sig you want to end up with.
Best wishes -
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Craft, Tennessee Technological University
Smithville TN 37166, 615/597-6801 x111
vpitelka@dtccom.net, wpitelka@tntech.edu
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka/
http://www.tntech.edu/craftcenter/
______________________________________________________________________________
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Brian Haviland on thu 10 mar 05
>>I think that Vince Pitelka's method could be considered complicated. A
>>simpler, but I like the Val Cushing way. Its easy and works very well.
>-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>First, please sign your posts with a name. Second, it really is not complex
>at all, and it gives a superior terra sig. You do need to have an
>appropriate hydrometer, but otherwise it is a simple process. It all
>depends the quality of terra sig you want to end up with.
>Best wishes -
>- Vince
****************************************************************************************************
>I have made Vince's TS a number of times and have never had any problems
>or dificulties
in the preparation of the mix. I also feel that the results are by far the
best. I have tried two
other types ( no names to be mentioned ) and have to work harder to get the
shine and depth
that i do with the V-SIG as i now call it.( hope you don't mind Vince ) I
just use an old tee-shirt
an it is the most amazing experience to see pot go from dull to de vine.
Thanks Vince,
Brian Haviland
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.
Notice: "If you are not the intended recipient of this E-mail, be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution, or use of this e-mail and/or any attachments is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately and delete this copy and any attachments hereto from your system. Thank you for your anticipated cooperation."
Antoinette Badenhorst on thu 10 mar 05
I can encore that one. I dip it , spray it, pour it all successfully. Lately
I used his recipe with porcelain instead of redart or goldart and even that
works well. Thanks Vince.
Antoinette.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Haviland"
To:
Sent: Thursday, March 10, 2005 9:18 AM
Subject: Re: terra sig method
>>>I think that Vince Pitelka's method could be considered complicated. A
>>>simpler, but I like the Val Cushing way. Its easy and works very well.
>>-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>First, please sign your posts with a name. Second, it really is not
>>complex
>>at all, and it gives a superior terra sig. You do need to have an
>>appropriate hydrometer, but otherwise it is a simple process. It all
>>depends the quality of terra sig you want to end up with.
>>Best wishes -
>>- Vince
> ****************************************************************************************************
>
>>I have made Vince's TS a number of times and have never had any problems
>>or dificulties
> in the preparation of the mix. I also feel that the results are by far the
> best. I have tried two
> other types ( no names to be mentioned ) and have to work harder to get
> the
> shine and depth
> that i do with the V-SIG as i now call it.( hope you don't mind Vince ) I
> just use an old tee-shirt
> an it is the most amazing experience to see pot go from dull to de vine.
>
> Thanks Vince,
>
> Brian Haviland
>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>>______________________________________________________________________________
>>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>>
>>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>>
>>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>>melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
> Notice: "If you are not the intended recipient of this E-mail, be aware
> that any disclosure, copying, distribution, or use of this e-mail and/or
> any attachments is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error,
> please notify the sender immediately and delete this copy and any
> attachments hereto from your system. Thank you for your anticipated
> cooperation."
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
tadpole128@juno.com on thu 10 mar 05
I think that Vince Pitelka's method could be considered complicated. A simpler, but I like the Val Cushing way. Its easy and works very well.
70% water, 30%dry clay. 0.1-0.3%deflocculent (it recommends darvan 7 or calgonite).
For a pure white, i mixed 1500 grams total (1050 ball clay and 450 water, 4.5 defl.) and was satisfied. measure out parts. dissolve and measure defl. and water together to get a more exact measurement.
Ball mill for a while (at least 8hrs) it separates some, but really you can use all of it.
mason stains, oxides can be added before or after ball milling.
hard white: ball clay 750 EPK 750
off white: ball clay 1400 redart 100
theres more where this came from!
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