Susan Stannard on mon 14 mar 05
I'm new to glazing and would like to try some of the glazes in "Mastering
Cone 6 Glazes". Right now I'm using a dark red clay (IMCO's Navajo Wheel).
One of the FAQs on masteringglazes.com mentions that the Spearmint glaze may
not turn out well on a non-white clay body. Does anyone have experience with
any of the other Mastering Cone 6 glazes on clay with high iron content?
Any advice/recipes would be greatly appreciated!
Susan Stannard
Steve Slatin on wed 16 mar 05
Susan --
I just got some Raspberry tests out of the kiln. It
not only does well over very dark clay, it looks (if
applied thick) exactly the same as over white
stoneware. You have to look at the bottoms to tell
which is which.
-- Steve Slatin
--- Susan Stannard wrote:
> I'm new to glazing and would like to try some of the
> glazes in "Mastering
> Cone 6 Glazes". Right now I'm using a dark red clay
> (IMCO's Navajo Wheel).
Steve Slatin -- Don't Ever Antagonize The Horn
__________________________________
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Crystal Nolfo~Brown on wed 16 mar 05
I've used Field Mouse Brown and Oatmeal on a dark red clay. I really like
those. They are nice semi-matte glazes and I found that they still look
good if the application is really thin. Powder Blue and Bright Sky Blue is
also nice but you must get it thick enough or they will just be a yucky
dark brown(IMO). I spray a lot of my glazes and I'm still working on the
thickness of application. Let's see. I also have a test tile with Verigated
Slate Blue and it's nice. And of course Licorice. I think you would find a
very easy glaze to work with. I've been using it as my liner glaze and
really like the fact that it covers well and is pretty much a "no problem"
glaze. I think that you would find most of them to look good on your clay
although I've seen messages about people using Spearment complaining that
it looks nasty on iron bearing clays. I would steer clear of that one.
Good Luck,
Crystal
>I'm new to glazing and would like to try some of the glazes in "Mastering
>Cone 6 Glazes". Right now I'm using a dark red clay (IMCO's Navajo Wheel).
>One of the FAQs on masteringglazes.com mentions that the Spearmint glaze
may
>not turn out well on a non-white clay body. Does anyone have experience
with
>any of the other Mastering Cone 6 glazes on clay with high iron content?
>
>Any advice/recipes would be greatly appreciated!
>
>Susan Stannard
>
Emily Lees on wed 16 mar 05
Two of us glazed a few test pots using the waterfall brown on a dark red
clay body and it turned out terrible, but I suspect that the glaze was
not soaked and then not cooled slowly enough (my friend/teacher admitted
he had not read all of the instructions!). The pots looked like they had
smallpox. In between the blisters was this beautiful glaze, though. It
would be worth a test.
Susan Stannard wrote:
>I'm new to glazing and would like to try some of the glazes in "Mastering
>Cone 6 Glazes". Right now I'm using a dark red clay (IMCO's Navajo Wheel).
>One of the FAQs on masteringglazes.com mentions that the Spearmint glaze may
>not turn out well on a non-white clay body. Does anyone have experience with
>any of the other Mastering Cone 6 glazes on clay with high iron content?
>
>Any advice/recipes would be greatly appreciated!
>
>Susan Stannard
>
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Susan Stannard on sat 19 mar 05
Thanks again to everyone for their help about MC6Glazes on Navajo Wheel and
other very dark clays. Your tips are much appreciated.
Susan Stannard
Anne Wellings on sat 19 mar 05
I, too have found the MC6 glazes to work well on dark red clay, and I use
Navajo Wheel, as does Susan, the original questioner (whom I already wrote
to off-list). I had pretty good results with Spearmint, unlike what I've
heard. I didn't slow-cool, so didn't expect what was shown in the book, but
on the underside of a plate rim, where it apparently cooled slower, I did
get a lighter, more frosted appearance. On the top, it was a pretty moss
green, not yucky at all. Perhaps it was on thick. Also, the Raspberry,
Licorice, Bone, and Variegated Blue turned out beautifully, without slow
cooling, although the Raspberry did craze a little. But these were just
tests, and the main glaze I've worked with from the book is Glossy Base 1
with a good bit of rutile along with other colorants. It works great on
Navajo Wheel, but should be on the thick side for best results, which is
tricky for me, because if it's too thick it will cover up my incised
patterns too much. I manage to get it right most of the time, though.
Anne Wellings
Sunrise Beach Pottery
Olympia, Washington
On Wed, 16 Mar 2005 21:24:38 -0500, Crystal Nolfo~Brown
wrote:
>I've used Field Mouse Brown and Oatmeal on a dark red clay. I really like
>those. They are nice semi-matte glazes and I found that they still look
>good if the application is really thin. Powder Blue and Bright Sky Blue is
>also nice but you must get it thick enough or they will just be a yucky
>dark brown(IMO). I spray a lot of my glazes and I'm still working on the
>thickness of application. Let's see. I also have a test tile with Verigated
>Slate Blue and it's nice. And of course Licorice. I think you would find a
>very easy glaze to work with. I've been using it as my liner glaze and
>really like the fact that it covers well and is pretty much a "no problem"
>glaze. I think that you would find most of them to look good on your clay
>although I've seen messages about people using Spearment complaining that
>it looks nasty on iron bearing clays. I would steer clear of that one.
>Good Luck,
>Crystal
>
>
>
>>I'm new to glazing and would like to try some of the glazes in "Mastering
>>Cone 6 Glazes". Right now I'm using a dark red clay (IMCO's Navajo Wheel).
>>One of the FAQs on masteringglazes.com mentions that the Spearmint glaze
>may
>>not turn out well on a non-white clay body. Does anyone have experience
>with
>>any of the other Mastering Cone 6 glazes on clay with high iron content?
>>
>>Any advice/recipes would be greatly appreciated!
>>
>>Susan Stannard
>>
>
June Perry on sat 19 mar 05
Susan,
If the red claybody is your preference for most glazes, then you can just
use white engobe on pots that you intend to glaze with Spearmint or other
glazes which may give you better results on a light clay body.
Regards,
June Perry
http:/www.angelfire.com/art2/shambhalapottery/
Crystal Nolfo~Brown on sat 19 mar 05
Well soon after I sent my post I happened to come across photos of some
work by Bert Gibson with Spearment on it and they looked very nice. It was
a deep mossy green. Very pretty color. It did look like it was on an iron
bearing clay to me. Makes me want to try it now.
Crystal Nolfo~Brown
On Sat, 19 Mar 2005 01:25:30 -0500, Anne Wellings
wrote:
>I, too have found the MC6 glazes to work well on dark red clay, and I use
>Navajo Wheel, as does Susan, the original questioner (whom I already wrote
>to off-list). I had pretty good results with Spearmint, unlike what I've
>heard. I didn't slow-cool, so didn't expect what was shown in the book, but
>on the underside of a plate rim, where it apparently cooled slower, I did
>get a lighter, more frosted appearance. On the top, it was a pretty moss
>green, not yucky at all. Perhaps it was on thick. Also, the Raspberry,
>Licorice, Bone, and Variegated Blue turned out beautifully, without slow
>cooling, although the Raspberry did craze a little. But these were just
>tests, and the main glaze I've worked with from the book is Glossy Base 1
>with a good bit of rutile along with other colorants. It works great on
>Navajo Wheel, but should be on the thick side for best results, which is
>tricky for me, because if it's too thick it will cover up my incised
>patterns too much. I manage to get it right most of the time, though.
>
>Anne Wellings
>Sunrise Beach Pottery
>Olympia, Washington
>
>On Wed, 16 Mar 2005 21:24:38 -0500, Crystal Nolfo~Brown
>wrote:
>
I think that you would find most of them to look good on your clay
>>although I've seen messages about people using Spearment complaining that
>>it looks nasty on iron bearing clays. I would steer clear of that one.
>>Good Luck,
>>Crystal
>>
>>
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