Scott Van Orman on mon 11 apr 05
Most knowledgeable kiln pros;
I have acquired a used kiln set up with four Eclipse TR 6 burners for
natural gas.
They are not equipped with pressure gages or safety shut offs. I know
they will work but I would like to have gages for getting the uniform
firings. The shut offs just seem like a good idea, sort of like wearing
your seat belt or bike helmet.
What is the BTU rating of the TR 6 ?
What pressure should the run at?
Will I need a regulator to achieve said pressure?
How many cubic feet of gas / hour are needed to get the rated BTU of the
burners?
Do you have suggestions on regulator, gauges, and shut offs?
Thanks in advance;
Scott Van Orman
Lander, WY
Hank Murrow on mon 11 apr 05
On Apr 11, 2005, at 9:02 AM, Scott Van Orman wrote:
>
> I have acquired a used kiln set up with four Eclipse TR 6 burners for
> natural gas.
> They are not equipped with pressure gages or safety shut offs. I know
> they will work but I would like to have gages for getting the uniform
> firings.
Dear Scott;
I would advise buying Dwyer U-tube Manometers for your setup, or you
can make them yourself with some Tygon tubing and a piece of plywood.
Email me privately for details. U-tube Manometers are far more reliable
that gauges.
> The shut offs just seem like a good idea, sort of like wearing
> your seat belt or bike helmet.
Most BASO type safety systems I have seen have a brick on the button,
defeating their purpose. Deppends upon your location and collateral
safety issues.
>
> What is the BTU rating of the TR 6 ?
Nominally, 70,00 BTU, but you can double that with careful design of
the burner ports and manifolding two Eclipse flame retention tips for
each burner.
> What pressure should they run at?
Natural gas with Eclipse mixers are great at 8_10" water column.
> Will I need a regulator to achieve said pressure?
The Gas Co will provide that. Piping from the meter to the kiln is on
your tab.
>
> Do you have suggestions on regulator, gauges, and shut offs?
I use Apollo Ball Valves with my Eclipse setups, and also Barber pilot
burners to keep things lit in the early stages of the firing.
Cheers, Hank in Eugene
www.murrow.biz/hank
Scroll down to the kiln article here......
http://www.ceramicsmonthly.org/mustreads/shinofire.asp for more
details.
Louis Katz on mon 11 apr 05
Hi
BAso Safety valves here at TAMUCC do not have brick on the button and
when the button is depressed only the gas that goes to the pilot gets
through.
This is what I , untrained or tested, would suggest to keep you valves
healthy.
Install the valve:
1 away from the heat.
2. on a horizontal section of pipe.
3. Put a T and short length of pipe facing down just before valve to
catch crud before it can get into the valve.
4. Install thermocouples so that only the tip gets hot.
5. Use Husky or some other Heavy Duty Thermocouple
6. Have spare thermocouples. Replace them at the first sign of being
hard to light or keep lit.
7. Of course read any directions that come with the Baso Valve.
>
>> The shut offs just seem like a good idea, sort of like wearing
>> your seat belt or bike helmet.
>
> Most BASO type safety systems I have seen have a brick on the button,
> defeating their purpose. Deppends upon your location and collateral
> safety issues.
> I use Apollo Ball Valves with my Eclipse setups, and also Barber pilot
> burners to keep things lit in the early stages of the firing.
>
> Cheers, Hank in Eugene
> www.murrow.biz/hank
>
> Scroll down to the kiln article here......
> http://www.ceramicsmonthly.org/mustreads/shinofire.asp for more
> details.
>
> _______________________________________________________________________
> _______
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
Louis Katz
http://www.tamucc.edu/~lkatz
| |
|
