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defloculating redart

updated mon 2 may 05

 

Jeff Longtin on wed 27 apr 05


Hey Gang,
Does anyone have experience turning Redart into a low fire casting body? I
see a recipe of 50 Red-25 Ball-25 Talc and I'm wondering if anyone has acually
used it?
I see some suggestions to throw in Barium but I wonder if I really need to?
It sounds like it'll be either short or really short and I'm wondering if the
hassle is really worth it?

Thanks
Jeff Longtin

Ron Roy on thu 28 apr 05


The Barium is to tie up any salts and prevent scumming - about 2% should do it.

I don't do casting so I can only guess - Red Art is not very plastic to it
does not shrink as much as stoneware and ballclay for instance- I'd mix in
some plastic clay and them deflocc it maybe?

RR

>Hey Gang,
>Does anyone have experience turning Redart into a low fire casting body? I
>see a recipe of 50 Red-25 Ball-25 Talc and I'm wondering if anyone has acually
>used it?
>I see some suggestions to throw in Barium but I wonder if I really need to?
>It sounds like it'll be either short or really short and I'm wondering if the
>hassle is really worth it?
>
>Thanks
>Jeff Longtin
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.

Ron Roy
RR#4
15084 Little Lake Road
Brighton, Ontario
Canada
K0K 1H0
Phone: 613-475-9544
Fax: 613-475-3513

Donna Nicosia on thu 28 apr 05


Hi,
I just received several large bags of powdered red art clay. Usually I
purchase my clay in already made form. Does anyone know how I can make =
this
dry clay into usable clay? Do I only add water? Thanks in advance. =
Donna=20


=A0
Donna Nicosia
http://www.donnanicosia.com

-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Ron Roy
Sent: Thursday, April 28, 2005 1:43 AM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: Defloculating Redart

The Barium is to tie up any salts and prevent scumming - about 2% should =
do
it.

I don't do casting so I can only guess - Red Art is not very plastic to =
it
does not shrink as much as stoneware and ballclay for instance- I'd mix =
in
some plastic clay and them deflocc it maybe?

RR

>Hey Gang,
>Does anyone have experience turning Redart into a low fire casting =
body? I
>see a recipe of 50 Red-25 Ball-25 Talc and I'm wondering if anyone has
acually
>used it?
>I see some suggestions to throw in Barium but I wonder if I really need =
to?
>It sounds like it'll be either short or really short and I'm wondering =
if
the
>hassle is really worth it?
>
>Thanks
>Jeff Longtin
>
>________________________________________________________________________=
___
___
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.

Ron Roy
RR#4
15084 Little Lake Road
Brighton, Ontario
Canada
K0K 1H0
Phone: 613-475-9544
Fax: 613-475-3513

_________________________________________________________________________=
___
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org

You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/

Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.

Louis Katz on thu 28 apr 05


I would use barium and good water. Put the Barium in the water first
1/10 of 1% is sufficient. I have had better luck with Darvan in the
last 5 years than with Sodium Silicate/soda ash with Redart, but
fifteen years ago I was able to defloculate straight redart with Sodium
Silicate/soda ash.
You can see some straight redart slipcast stuff at:
http://falcon.tamucc.edu/~lkatz/LK/slipcastclay/index.htm
firing is mostly oxidation between 04 and cone 3 or so.
Louis


On Apr 27, 2005, at 10:05 AM, Jeff Longtin wrote:

> Hey Gang,
> Does anyone have experience turning Redart into a low fire casting
> body? I
> see a recipe of 50 Red-25 Ball-25 Talc and I'm wondering if anyone has
> acually
> used it?
> I see some suggestions to throw in Barium but I wonder if I really
> need to?
> It sounds like it'll be either short or really short and I'm wondering
> if the
> hassle is really worth it?
>
> Thanks
> Jeff Longtin
>
> _______________________________________________________________________
> _______
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>

Ceramic Design Group on thu 28 apr 05


You need to use Darvan 811.

I would humbly disagree with Ron on the percentage of Barium Carb
necessary. He suggests 2% which in my experience is too high. You need
only between one quarter and one half percent of Barium Carb.Too much
will not permit the slip to gell.

You also need to get some large particle sized kaolins in your mix as
the red art and ball clays are way to fine to permit any water
migration. I would suggest EPK or even better, Velvcast.

Casting clays are 50 parts plastics and 50 parts non-plastics. Your
formula will not cast unless you modify it.

You can start with 20 parts redart, 15 parts ball clay, 15 parts kaolin
and then maybe 25 parts talc and 25 parts pyrophyllite.

Best

Jonathan




Jonathan Kaplan
Ceramic Design Group
PO Box 775112
Steamboat Springs CO 80477
(970) 879-9139

Plant location for commercial deliveries excluding USPS
1280 13th Street Suite K
Steamboat Springs CO 80487

info@ceramicdesigngroup.net
www.ceramicdesigngroup.net

Snail Scott on sat 30 apr 05


At 10:17 AM 4/28/2005 -0400, you wrote:
> I just received several large bags of powdered red art clay. Usually I
>purchase my clay in already made form. Does anyone know how I can make this
>dry clay into usable clay? Do I only add water? Thanks in advance. Donna


Red Art by itself is not a great material
to work with; it's most often used as an
ingredient in a clay body recipe. Also,
you didn't say what temperature you prefer
to fire to. I suggest finding a recipe
which uses Red Art and fires to your usual
temperature range. You will need to acquire
a few other materials to make up the recipe,
but dry clay is not expensive. (Of course,
by the same token, if you don't feel like
mixing your own clay, you won't have lost
a lot by giving this stuff away, either.)

If you tell us what cone you prefer to
fire to, and what type of work you do (pottery,
tile, sculpture, etc) perhaps folks on this
list can suggest some simple and suitable clay
body recipes. Then we can get into the
nitty-gritty of mixing it up!

-Snail

Vince Pitelka on sat 30 apr 05


> I just received several large bags of powdered red art clay. Usually I
> purchase my clay in already made form. Does anyone know how I can make
> this
> dry clay into usable clay? Do I only add water? Thanks in advance. Donna

Donna -
Assuming that this is Cedar Heights Redart clay, one of the best uses would
be to make terra sigillata. Of all the clays I have used over the years to
make terra sig, Redart is my favorite. I just posted a re-written version
of my terra sig article on my website at
.
- Vince

Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Craft, Tennessee Technological University
Smithville TN 37166, 615/597-6801 x111
vpitelka@dtccom.net, wpitelka@tntech.edu
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka/
http://www.tntech.edu/craftcenter/

Ron Roy on sat 30 apr 05


Hi Jonathan,

Thanks for catching that - I should have said 2 lb in 1000 lb. of dry body
- that is 0.2 %.

Some times less is needed - some times more. Depends - what kinds of clay
you use and how much they are contaminated.

The trick is to use only as much as you need - so it is all used up when it
combined with the salts.

If you see any sighs of scumming you simply add a bit more till the
scumming stops.

RR




We normally add
>I would humbly disagree with Ron on the percentage of Barium Carb
>necessary. He suggests 2% which in my experience is too high. You need
>only between one quarter and one half percent of Barium Carb.Too much
>will not permit the slip to gell.

>Jonathan

Ron Roy
RR#4
15084 Little Lake Road
Brighton, Ontario
Canada
K0K 1H0
Phone: 613-475-9544
Fax: 613-475-3513