Jim Murphy on wed 27 apr 05
Hello,
I'm hoping someone with RAM Press experience may be able to help with this
one.
Basically, I've got a simple hollow 1/8" thick-walled hemisperical model I
wish to press-mold using a 2-piece male/female plaster mould set.
To create the 2-piece mould set, I'm not sure how close to the inside edges
of the "male/female" to place the "gutter" - where excess clay will be
squeezed into as the two mould halves press together.
Here are two Figures (1 & 2) below with two possibilities. The figures are
illustrated as rectangular forms - rather than hemisperical - do to drawing
constraints of the Clayart Listserver. I'll keep my fingers crossed
everything lines-up using "Courier" font.
Fig. 1 - Male "gutter" inside-edge aligned with inside-edge of "female"
mould-half
________________
| female |
| __________ |
| | | | | |
|_________ | | male | | ___________|
|__| | | |__|
________ ___| |__ ____________
|__| |__|
gutter gutter
Fig. 2 - Male "gutter" inside-edge additional "X"-distance away from
"female" inside-edge
________________
| female |
| __________ |
| | | | | |
| "X"| | | |"X" |
|______ __| | male | |___ ________|
|__| | | |__|
_____ _____| |_____ _________
|__| |__|
gutter gutter
Is there some general rule-of-thumb for the "X"-distance to "gutter" for
precision RAM die/moulds ???
While I'm at it, is it better to put the "gutter" in the male or female
mould-half ???
I'd appreciate any advice.
Best wishes,
Jim Murphy
Jacob Runyan on thu 28 apr 05
Jim,
I'd put the gutter on the female side. In my most
humble opinion, it creates better compression of the
clay in the mould.
As for "distance from female part"...I prefer about a
1/4 inch is nice. Enough to trim it well with a
fettling knife, not enough to create such a huge
pressure that the clay actually excess shoots out from
the mold and into your face. If you are talking about
self trimming, I can't help ya.
One more thing, I hope you are not using diecases from
RAM. Or at least, not the solid type (not sure if
they sell other types). You can have some made up
that have one removable wall, so you can have multiple
dies, and only one set of diecases. The die will then
slide in to the case, and you screw the wall back on.
Makes it much less frustrating to screw up a die. No
more trying to break up the hydrocal so you can make
another mould. A local machinist should be able to
help you. If you can't find anybody, drop me a line.
They'll probably cost you what two diecases from RAM
costs, you are limited only in how many dies you want
to make up :)
Hope I answered your questions...
-Jacob
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Ceramic Design Group on thu 28 apr 05
I could not decipher your sketches sent to the listserve.
Having made RAM=A9 dies for many years, it is hard to describe without=20=
seeing it done. I am having an air release die workshop at our facility=20=
June 24-26 and you may want to get it on seeing it done.We will cover=20
simple air release molds as well as die making for the RAM press
However, to set your gutters your may want to consider the shape of the=20=
gutter as well. Depends on how you tool the master die impressions.
Usually we set a triangular shaped extrusion of Kleen Clay about 1/4"=20
from the edge of the piece on the set up slab. Then we take the master=20=
die impression of that piece and set the second gutter on top of the=20
first and make the second master die impressions. The edge that the=20
gutter leaves is then tooled into a very fine pointed edge.
The male and the female die member should never touch each other when=20
you press. Consider about 1/16" to 1/8" inch kind of normal, but it=20
really depends on how flat and accurate your set ups were originally.
Its hard to describe but I think there might be some photographs on our=20=
website.
Best and good luck
Jonathan (with Annie at the Ceramic Sculpture conference=20
in Davis California)
>
Jonathan Kaplan
Ceramic Design Group
PO Box 775112
Steamboat Springs CO 80477
(970) 879-9139
Plant location for commercial deliveries excluding USPS
1280 13th Street Suite K
Steamboat Springs CO 80487
info@ceramicdesigngroup.net
www.ceramicdesigngroup.net
Jim Murphy on fri 29 apr 05
Hi Jonathan,
Thanks for the detailed explanation.
I've got a better understanding now about RAM die "gutter" design &
location.
I'll definitely need to rethink my original 2-part mold (die) design for
this process to workout for me.
Hope your Ceramic Sculpture conference is successful.
Best wishes,
Jim Murphy
Jim Murphy on fri 29 apr 05
Hi Des,
Thanks very much for the Reid Harvey book/video references.
The latest Axner catalog - just received days ago - is tempting my OCD. So
many goodies !
Best wishes,
Jim Murphy
Jim Murphy on fri 29 apr 05
Jacob,
Thanks for all your sound advice - including diecase design.
Today, I am a wiser man. :)
Best wishes,
Jim Murphy
Des & Jan Howard on fri 29 apr 05
Jim
Axner.com have the excellent booklet by Reid Harvey "Pressing Ceramics
with Air Release"
34 pages US$7.76, also a 100 min vid US$29.95.
The booklet gives clear instructions.
Des
Jim Murphy wrote:
>Hello,
>
>I'm hoping someone with RAM Press experience may be able to help with this
>one.
>
>Basically, I've got a simple hollow 1/8" thick-walled hemisperical model I
>wish to press-mold using a 2-piece male/female plaster mould set.
>
>To create the 2-piece mould set, I'm not sure how close to the inside edges
>of the "male/female" to place the "gutter" - where excess clay will be
>squeezed into as the two mould halves press together.
>
>
>
--
Des & Jan Howard
Lue Pottery
LUE NSW 2850
Australia
Ph/Fax 02 6373 6419
http://www.luepottery.hwy.com.au
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