Phil on mon 2 may 05
All,
We're operating a paint-your-own ceramics shop. We use Duncan Concepts
glazes, and Duncan's non-lead clear glaze (something like AD 1001 is the
serial number). The clear glaze is more difficult to work with (iy requires
that we "finger sand" most pieces before firing), but we're adamant about a
lead free environment - for our, and our customer's safety.
Here are some questions:
1) After we glaze our painted bisque pieces, we "finger sand" them. In other
words, we go over every piece lightly and use our fingers to smooth out the
bumps and hardened drips of dry glaze on the bottom and sides and remove
definition lines that would show up after firing. This provides a real
quality result for our customers.
We do the finger-sanding over a large pail that the dried, non-leaded dust
falls into. This dust appears to be quite "heavy" in nature, and doesn't
appear to get airborne in any significant way. I do't raise a lot of dust
when I finger sand, as I just rub the glazed bisque lightly, causing a fine
dust to fall into the pail. However, after a week or so, there is dust on
the floor near the kilns.
What precautions - if any - should I take when "finger-sanding" glazed
bisqure? Is a mask necessary?
2) When bisque comes out of the kiln, we remove the ceramic stilts and grind
down the small stilt marks on the bottom of the fired bisque with a dremel
tool and sanding bit. I wear a regular white dust mask for this task.
I have to hold the fired pieces fairly close to my face to dremel them, as
the stilt marks are small and require close observation to grind them down
properly.
We're probably firing an average of 15-20 pieces every day. Should I wear
additional protection when dremeling? I ask because I notice a very fine
dust being ground off the fired bisque. I think this is where most of our
floor dust comes from.
Lately, I've taken to lightly sponge mopping the worst parts of the floor
near the glaze bucket and kils about once every week. Is this sufficient?
3) It's virtually impossible to get a list of ingredients that comprise
Duncan's non-leaded glazes, Duncan lists these ingredients as "trade
secrets". I'm a bit concerned that even though the glazes we use are lead
free, there may be other compounds present that are harmful for skin contact
or inhalation. Does anyone have any information about this?
4) Our shop/studio is small (about 1400 square feet), so we have our kilns
in a back room that is adjacent to the checkout desk and our lunch room. We
do have the kilns vented with kiln fans (to the outside), but we always
leave one of the peep holes open during firing (we were instructed to do
this by the manufacturer). Should we be concerned about any outgasing - even
if it's non-leaded?
Please feel free to add any other safety information, or precautions that
you think we should follow in a paint-your-own studio. It's surprisingly
difficult to get information that is specific to our situation, so please
add anything elae (or reference) anything else we need to know.
Thanks again!!
Phil
John Hesselberth on mon 2 may 05
Hi Phil,
It is great that you are addressing these questions head-on. We have
all seen too many who don't.
From my perspective, the answer to the first two questions is
"Absolutely" you should be wearing a mask when you are sanding or
dremeling. And not one of those hardware store dust mask. Get one that
is rated as a P100 from a good pottery supply dealer or industrial
safety equipment store. Graingers and places like that also carry them.
They cost $25-$50. The problem here is not "toxic" materials, it is
plain old silica dust. Silica dust is so fine that it stays suspended
in air for hours--maybe days. And you cannot see it in the air. That is
probably a large percentage of what you are seeing as dust on your
counters and floors. Prolonged exposure to silica dust leads to
silicosis--a problem none of us wants to have. Silica dust may be the
single largest health danger potters face--although I suppose back
problems, blowing the lids off kilns and other such possibilities might
be in the running.
Not only should you wear a mask while doing these activities, they are
best done into a vented hood or spray booth or outside. You are
contaminating the air in your studio to some degree when you do them
inside. Unfortunately you can't tell how much unless you have very
sophisticated equipment with which to sample the air.
Regarding the composition of Duncan glazes and potential hazards that
lie therein, it is impossible to say. Very few--maybe none--of the
traditional glaze materials are absorbed through the skin to any
significant degree. However, kiln fumes are not good to breathe under
any circumstances. All kinds of strange and wonderful (or not so
wonderful) compounds can come off a kiln during firing. Wax degradation
products, manganese fumes, etc. Most of us try to set up our kilns so
we don't smell them during firing (e.g. a different isolated room or
outside under cover) and/or limit our exposure to very brief
"inspections" where we look at the cones.
With respect to leaving a peep out during firing, you will get all
kinds of opinions about this. I personally do not do it. But you can
check on what is happening by holding a lighted match up to the peep.
If the flame is drawn in your vent fan probably has enough suction that
no fumes are escaping during firing. I just haven't found it necessary
to leave a peep open for the vent fan to do its job.
Again, it is great you are paying to these issues before they cause you
a problem. Best of luck.
Regards,
John
On May 2, 2005, at 4:27 AM, Phil wrote:
> All,
>
> We're operating a paint-your-own ceramics shop. We use Duncan Concepts
> glazes, and Duncan's non-lead clear glaze (something like AD 1001 is
> the
> serial number). The clear glaze is more difficult to work with (iy
> requires
> that we "finger sand" most pieces before firing), but we're adamant
> about a
> lead free environment - for our, and our customer's safety.
>
> Here are some questions:
>
> 1) After we glaze our painted bisque pieces, we "finger sand" them. In
> other
> words, we go over every piece lightly and use our fingers to smooth
> out the
> bumps and hardened drips of dry glaze on the bottom and sides and
> remove
> definition lines that would show up after firing. This provides a real
> quality result for our customers.
>
> We do the finger-sanding over a large pail that the dried, non-leaded
> dust
> falls into. This dust appears to be quite "heavy" in nature, and
> doesn't
> appear to get airborne in any significant way. I do't raise a lot of
> dust
> when I finger sand, as I just rub the glazed bisque lightly, causing a
> fine
> dust to fall into the pail. However, after a week or so, there is dust
> on
> the floor near the kilns.
>
> What precautions - if any - should I take when "finger-sanding" glazed
> bisqure? Is a mask necessary?
>
>
> 2) When bisque comes out of the kiln, we remove the ceramic stilts and
> grind
> down the small stilt marks on the bottom of the fired bisque with a
> dremel
> tool and sanding bit. I wear a regular white dust mask for this task.
>
> I have to hold the fired pieces fairly close to my face to dremel
> them, as
> the stilt marks are small and require close observation to grind them
> down
> properly.
>
> We're probably firing an average of 15-20 pieces every day. Should I
> wear
> additional protection when dremeling? I ask because I notice a very
> fine
> dust being ground off the fired bisque. I think this is where most of
> our
> floor dust comes from.
>
> Lately, I've taken to lightly sponge mopping the worst parts of the
> floor
> near the glaze bucket and kils about once every week. Is this
> sufficient?
>
> 3) It's virtually impossible to get a list of ingredients that comprise
> Duncan's non-leaded glazes, Duncan lists these ingredients as "trade
> secrets". I'm a bit concerned that even though the glazes we use are
> lead
> free, there may be other compounds present that are harmful for skin
> contact
> or inhalation. Does anyone have any information about this?
>
> 4) Our shop/studio is small (about 1400 square feet), so we have our
> kilns
> in a back room that is adjacent to the checkout desk and our lunch
> room. We
> do have the kilns vented with kiln fans (to the outside), but we always
> leave one of the peep holes open during firing (we were instructed to
> do
> this by the manufacturer). Should we be concerned about any outgasing
> - even
> if it's non-leaded?
>
> Please feel free to add any other safety information, or precautions
> that
> you think we should follow in a paint-your-own studio. It's
> surprisingly
> difficult to get information that is specific to our situation, so
> please
> add anything elae (or reference) anything else we need to know.
>
> Thanks again!!
> Phil
>
> _______________________________________________________________________
> _______
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
John Hesselberth
http://www.frogpondpottery.com
http://www.masteringglazes.com
Louis Katz on mon 2 may 05
Hi Phil,
I am not a safety expert but I would suggest the following might be
appropriate:
1. Get MSDS sheets on the glazes, today don't put it off.
2. set up a place which wil draw dust down and out of the shop with a
blower. A narrow table with a grill on it and a big fan.
3. Use this table for all grinding and "finger sanding", as well as any
sanding of greenware.
4. I would also wear a respirator and follow the directions on it.
5. Your kiln room should not leak gases into your regular workspace
I am near certain that some of your glaze dust gets airborne either
while you are sanding or after. While your customers may be a big
liability for you, it is your safety you should worry about. None of
the possible ingredients in the glaze are o.k. to breath including the
dust of greenware.
Louis
On May 2, 2005, at 3:27 AM, Phil wrote:
> All,
>
> We're operating a paint-your-own ceramics shop. We use Duncan Concepts
> glazes, and Duncan's non-lead clear glaze (something like AD 1001 is
> the
> serial number). The clear glaze is more difficult to work with (iy
> requires
> that we "finger sand" most pieces before firing), but we're adamant
> about a
> lead free environment - for our, and our customer's safety.
>
> Here are some questions:
>
> 1) After we glaze our painted bisque pieces, we "finger sand" them. In
> other
> words, we go over every piece lightly and use our fingers to smooth
> out the
> bumps and hardened drips of dry glaze on the bottom and sides and
> remove
> definition lines that would show up after firing. This provides a real
> quality result for our customers.
>
> We do the finger-sanding over a large pail that the dried, non-leaded
> dust
> falls into. This dust appears to be quite "heavy" in nature, and
> doesn't
> appear to get airborne in any significant way. I do't raise a lot of
> dust
> when I finger sand, as I just rub the glazed bisque lightly, causing a
> fine
> dust to fall into the pail. However, after a week or so, there is dust
> on
> the floor near the kilns.
>
> What precautions - if any - should I take when "finger-sanding" glazed
> bisqure? Is a mask necessary?
>
>
> 2) When bisque comes out of the kiln, we remove the ceramic stilts and
> grind
> down the small stilt marks on the bottom of the fired bisque with a
> dremel
> tool and sanding bit. I wear a regular white dust mask for this task.
>
> I have to hold the fired pieces fairly close to my face to dremel
> them, as
> the stilt marks are small and require close observation to grind them
> down
> properly.
>
> We're probably firing an average of 15-20 pieces every day. Should I
> wear
> additional protection when dremeling? I ask because I notice a very
> fine
> dust being ground off the fired bisque. I think this is where most of
> our
> floor dust comes from.
>
> Lately, I've taken to lightly sponge mopping the worst parts of the
> floor
> near the glaze bucket and kils about once every week. Is this
> sufficient?
>
> 3) It's virtually impossible to get a list of ingredients that comprise
> Duncan's non-leaded glazes, Duncan lists these ingredients as "trade
> secrets". I'm a bit concerned that even though the glazes we use are
> lead
> free, there may be other compounds present that are harmful for skin
> contact
> or inhalation. Does anyone have any information about this?
>
> 4) Our shop/studio is small (about 1400 square feet), so we have our
> kilns
> in a back room that is adjacent to the checkout desk and our lunch
> room. We
> do have the kilns vented with kiln fans (to the outside), but we always
> leave one of the peep holes open during firing (we were instructed to
> do
> this by the manufacturer). Should we be concerned about any outgasing
> - even
> if it's non-leaded?
>
> Please feel free to add any other safety information, or precautions
> that
> you think we should follow in a paint-your-own studio. It's
> surprisingly
> difficult to get information that is specific to our situation, so
> please
> add anything elae (or reference) anything else we need to know.
>
> Thanks again!!
> Phil
>
> _______________________________________________________________________
> _______
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
Ron Roy on wed 4 may 05
Hi Phil,
You need a spray booth type of instalation - that will take ANY dust and
put it outside - and I would wear a mine approved mask that at least stops
the size of silica that is know to cause silicosis.
Do the fingersanding and the grinding in the booth so that any dust does
not get into the room - get it outside - and wear an appropriate mask.
If you don't you will be breathing toxins all day in that room - no
question about this - we are talking about the particle size of silica that
can be lifted riseing air heated by your body - it's light and can stay
suspended for hours and days depending on trafic and heat/cooling air
movement.
RR
>We're operating a paint-your-own ceramics shop. We use Duncan Concepts
>glazes, and Duncan's non-lead clear glaze (something like AD 1001 is the
>serial number). The clear glaze is more difficult to work with (iy requires
>that we "finger sand" most pieces before firing), but we're adamant about a
>lead free environment - for our, and our customer's safety.
>
>Here are some questions:
>
>1) After we glaze our painted bisque pieces, we "finger sand" them. In other
>words, we go over every piece lightly and use our fingers to smooth out the
>bumps and hardened drips of dry glaze on the bottom and sides and remove
>definition lines that would show up after firing. This provides a real
>quality result for our customers.
>
>We do the finger-sanding over a large pail that the dried, non-leaded dust
>falls into. This dust appears to be quite "heavy" in nature, and doesn't
>appear to get airborne in any significant way. I do't raise a lot of dust
>when I finger sand, as I just rub the glazed bisque lightly, causing a fine
>dust to fall into the pail. However, after a week or so, there is dust on
>the floor near the kilns.
>
>What precautions - if any - should I take when "finger-sanding" glazed
>bisqure? Is a mask necessary?
>
>
>2) When bisque comes out of the kiln, we remove the ceramic stilts and grind
>down the small stilt marks on the bottom of the fired bisque with a dremel
>tool and sanding bit. I wear a regular white dust mask for this task.
>
>I have to hold the fired pieces fairly close to my face to dremel them, as
>the stilt marks are small and require close observation to grind them down
>properly.
>
>We're probably firing an average of 15-20 pieces every day. Should I wear
>additional protection when dremeling? I ask because I notice a very fine
>dust being ground off the fired bisque. I think this is where most of our
>floor dust comes from.
>
>Lately, I've taken to lightly sponge mopping the worst parts of the floor
>near the glaze bucket and kils about once every week. Is this sufficient?
>
>3) It's virtually impossible to get a list of ingredients that comprise
>Duncan's non-leaded glazes, Duncan lists these ingredients as "trade
>secrets". I'm a bit concerned that even though the glazes we use are lead
>free, there may be other compounds present that are harmful for skin contact
>or inhalation. Does anyone have any information about this?
>
>4) Our shop/studio is small (about 1400 square feet), so we have our kilns
>in a back room that is adjacent to the checkout desk and our lunch room. We
>do have the kilns vented with kiln fans (to the outside), but we always
>leave one of the peep holes open during firing (we were instructed to do
>this by the manufacturer). Should we be concerned about any outgasing - even
>if it's non-leaded?
>
>Please feel free to add any other safety information, or precautions that
>you think we should follow in a paint-your-own studio. It's surprisingly
>difficult to get information that is specific to our situation, so please
>add anything elae (or reference) anything else we need to know.
>
>Thanks again!!
>Phil
Ron Roy
RR#4
15084 Little Lake Road
Brighton, Ontario
Canada
K0K 1H0
Phone: 613-475-9544
Fax: 613-475-3513
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