John Britt on mon 2 may 05
Gail,
First let me say that this is very easy and simple to do. You just have to
be willing to fire in oxidation. I know that everyone is used to reduction
firing, but let me tell you=85. the results are worth it. Remember that
heavy reduction is only one of hundreds of methods of firing. Remember,
too, that you can refire in reduction or oxidation with interesting
results!
Jennifer Boyer and Sam Hoffman were two of the folks who took up the Red
Temmoku Challenge and both had great results. Thankfully, they posted
their results on line, as well as brought them in to the clayart room at
NCECA. Sam even posted the recipes on line!
http://www.samhoffman.com/GlazeTests.html
http://www.samhoffman.com/glazerecipes.html
http://thistlehillpottery.com/brittglazetests.html
http://www.msnusers.com/redtemmoku
Also I have several articles with oil spot information:
http://www.ceramicstoday.com/articles/oilspot.htm
http://www.ceramicsmonthly.org/mustreads/oilspot.asp
and there is a section in my book on oil spots, so I won=92t post any of
those. (Always feel free to post any of the recipes from my book on
clayart. In fact, I encourage it. There is no copyright on recipes!)
But I will try to give you a simple bit of instruction and some recipe
combinations although, when you do it, you will probably find better ones!
There is no end to the variation.
The basic premise is using oxidation firing and seeing what iron does. One
easy way to start is just to take base recipes (leave out the opacifiers
and colorants), like a copper red, a kaki, a magnesium matt, celadons,
clear, ash, etc. and do line blends with iron. So add 1%, - 25% iron to
the base and test. Then run a test where you over lap 2 or three glazes
and fire and/or multi-fire.
Try different forms of iron. There are many: Spanish Red Iron Oxide, Black
Iron Oxide, Yellow Iron Oxide, Natural Red Iron Oxide, Crocus Martis,
Burnt Umber, Barnard Slip Clay, Redart, Yellow Ochre, etc.
One interesting source of iron that we focused on was Synthetic Red Iron
Oxide. It is made as a cement pigment and is very pure and fine (325
mesh). They sell it through Laguna, Georgies and at US Pigments as well as
Standard Ceramics. Here is link for information on the iron:
http://64.233.161.104/search?
q=3Dcache:VrK5hfZsWvsJ:www.elementispigments.com/PDF/NR%
2520Reds.PDF+red+iron+producers+4686&hl=3Den
So all the iron listed in the recipes calls for Synthetic Red Iron 4686.
Then use combinations like;
Apply Bailey's Iron Red two coats or so, maybe more on the inside of a
bowl with OBM 1 over, with one or two coats. I don't know that you need
the synthetic red iron for this combination as the Bailey's glaze is doing
all the work.
Try OBM 1 =96 two coats with one coat of Sylvies=92 Clear over (not too thic=
k).
OBM 1, two coats, with Randy=92s Temmoku over one coat
Or OBM 1 with the OBM base over.(the base is the recipe without
colorants.) You could also try any celadon or temmoku over it.
Try Steve=92s Iron Red with two or three coats and then OBM1 over.
Good idea to use a drip tray. Some of these need to be thick and there is
a high probability that they will run!!!.
BAILEY IRON RED Cone 10/11
Custer Feldspar 47.00
Silica 13.00
Talc 10.50
EPK Kaolin 13.00
Bone Ash 14.00 ( real bone ash it is better
but TCP or tri-calcium phosphate is ok)
Lithium Carbonate 2.50
Red Iron Oxide 8.00
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
OBM 1 cone 10/11
Custer Feldspar 58.70
Whiting 12.40
Silica 21.70
Kentucky Ball Clay 7.20
Synthetic Red Iron Oxide 4686 12.00
Titanium Dioxide 3.00
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
SYLVIE'S CLEAR Cone 10
F-4 Feldspar 40.70
Gerstley Borate 12.75
Barium Carbonate 4.25
Whiting 8.50
Silica 29.00
Grolleg Kaolin 2.60
Ferro 3110 2.00
Zinc Oxide 0.50
Tin Oxide 0.85
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
STEVE IRVINE IRON RED Cone 10/11
NC-4 Soda Feldspar 41.71
Silica 22.24
Talc 7.34
EPK Kaolin 6.45
Bone Ash 10.23
Whiting 6.45
Magnesium Carbonate 5.56
Red Iron Oxide 11.12
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
RANDY JOHNSON'S TEMMOKU Cone 10
Custer Feldspar 54.00
Whiting 13.00
Silica 22.00
EPK Kaolin 6.00
Barium Carbonate 2.50
Zinc Oxide 2.50
Red Iron Oxide 7.00
Another great iron saturate is Chinese Crackle (from my book or Kaun
Crackle) without zircopax and add: 15% red iron oxide and it can be fired
in reduction with beautiful results!
John=92s Iron Saturate 15 cone 10/11 Reduction or Oxidation
Custer Feldspar 83.0
Silica 8.0
Whiting 9.0
Red Iron 4686 15%
A great magnesium iron yellow is Rhodes 32 (no zircopax) with 1 -5 % Red
Iron Oxide in reduction.
Rhodes 32 cone 10
Custer Feldspar 49.1
Whiting 3.5
Kaolin 25.0
Dolomite 22.4
Red Iron 1 =96 5%
The only thing I ask is that you let me know how it goes!
I encourage you to get a group together to help conduct the tests, as it
cuts the work load and increases the number of results.
Hope I did not forget anything,
John Britt
www.johnbrittpottery.com
Eric Suchman on mon 2 may 05
Can these be reformmulated to fire at ^6
> From: John Britt
> Reply-To: Clayart
> Date: Mon, 2 May 2005 09:33:26 -0400
> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Subject: RED TEMMOKU CHALLENGE
>=20
> Gail,
>=20
> First let me say that this is very easy and simple to do. You just have t=
o
> be willing to fire in oxidation. I know that everyone is used to reductio=
n
> firing, but let me tell you=85. the results are worth it. Remember that
> heavy reduction is only one of hundreds of methods of firing. Remember,
> too, that you can refire in reduction or oxidation with interesting
> results!
>=20
> Jennifer Boyer and Sam Hoffman were two of the folks who took up the Red
> Temmoku Challenge and both had great results. Thankfully, they posted
> their results on line, as well as brought them in to the clayart room at
> NCECA. Sam even posted the recipes on line!
>=20
> http://www.samhoffman.com/GlazeTests.html
>=20
>=20
> http://www.samhoffman.com/glazerecipes.html
>=20
>=20
> http://thistlehillpottery.com/brittglazetests.html
>=20
>=20
> http://www.msnusers.com/redtemmoku
>=20
>=20
> Also I have several articles with oil spot information:
>=20
>=20
> http://www.ceramicstoday.com/articles/oilspot.htm
>=20
>=20
> http://www.ceramicsmonthly.org/mustreads/oilspot.asp
>=20
>=20
> and there is a section in my book on oil spots, so I won=92t post any of
> those. (Always feel free to post any of the recipes from my book on
> clayart. In fact, I encourage it. There is no copyright on recipes!)
>=20
> But I will try to give you a simple bit of instruction and some recipe
> combinations although, when you do it, you will probably find better ones=
!
> There is no end to the variation.
>=20
> The basic premise is using oxidation firing and seeing what iron does. On=
e
> easy way to start is just to take base recipes (leave out the opacifiers
> and colorants), like a copper red, a kaki, a magnesium matt, celadons,
> clear, ash, etc. and do line blends with iron. So add 1%, - 25% iron to
> the base and test. Then run a test where you over lap 2 or three glazes
> and fire and/or multi-fire.
>=20
> Try different forms of iron. There are many: Spanish Red Iron Oxide, Blac=
k
> Iron Oxide, Yellow Iron Oxide, Natural Red Iron Oxide, Crocus Martis,
> Burnt Umber, Barnard Slip Clay, Redart, Yellow Ochre, etc.
>=20
> One interesting source of iron that we focused on was Synthetic Red Iron
> Oxide. It is made as a cement pigment and is very pure and fine (325
> mesh). They sell it through Laguna, Georgies and at US Pigments as well a=
s
> Standard Ceramics. Here is link for information on the iron:
>=20
> http://64.233.161.104/search?
> q=3Dcache:VrK5hfZsWvsJ:www.elementispigments.com/PDF/NR%
> 2520Reds.PDF+red+iron+producers+4686&hl=3Den
>=20
>=20
> So all the iron listed in the recipes calls for Synthetic Red Iron 4686.
>=20
> Then use combinations like;
>=20
> Apply Bailey's Iron Red two coats or so, maybe more on the inside of a
> bowl with OBM 1 over, with one or two coats. I don't know that you need
> the synthetic red iron for this combination as the Bailey's glaze is doin=
g
> all the work.
>=20
> Try OBM 1 =96 two coats with one coat of Sylvies=92 Clear over (not too thick=
).
>=20
> OBM 1, two coats, with Randy=92s Temmoku over one coat
> Or OBM 1 with the OBM base over.(the base is the recipe without
> colorants.) You could also try any celadon or temmoku over it.
>=20
> Try Steve=92s Iron Red with two or three coats and then OBM1 over.
>=20
> Good idea to use a drip tray. Some of these need to be thick and there is
> a high probability that they will run!!!.
>=20
> BAILEY IRON RED Cone 10/11
>=20
> Custer Feldspar 47.00
> Silica 13.00
> Talc 10.50
> EPK Kaolin 13.00
> Bone Ash 14.00 ( real bone ash it is better
> but TCP or tri-calcium phosphate is ok)
> Lithium Carbonate 2.50
>=20
> Red Iron Oxide 8.00
> ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
>=20
> OBM 1 cone 10/11
>=20
> Custer Feldspar 58.70
> Whiting 12.40
> Silica 21.70
> Kentucky Ball Clay 7.20
>=20
> Synthetic Red Iron Oxide 4686 12.00
> Titanium Dioxide 3.00
> ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
>=20
> SYLVIE'S CLEAR Cone 10
>=20
> F-4 Feldspar 40.70
> Gerstley Borate 12.75
> Barium Carbonate 4.25
> Whiting 8.50
> Silica 29.00
> Grolleg Kaolin 2.60
> Ferro 3110 2.00
> Zinc Oxide 0.50
> Tin Oxide 0.85
> ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
>=20
>=20
> STEVE IRVINE IRON RED Cone 10/11
>=20
> NC-4 Soda Feldspar 41.71
> Silica 22.24
> Talc 7.34
> EPK Kaolin 6.45
> Bone Ash 10.23
> Whiting 6.45
> Magnesium Carbonate 5.56
> Red Iron Oxide 11.12
> ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
>=20
> RANDY JOHNSON'S TEMMOKU Cone 10
>=20
> Custer Feldspar 54.00
> Whiting 13.00
> Silica 22.00
> EPK Kaolin 6.00
> Barium Carbonate 2.50
> Zinc Oxide 2.50
> Red Iron Oxide 7.00
>=20
>=20
> Another great iron saturate is Chinese Crackle (from my book or Kaun
> Crackle) without zircopax and add: 15% red iron oxide and it can be fired
> in reduction with beautiful results!
>=20
> John=92s Iron Saturate 15 cone 10/11 Reduction or Oxidation
>=20
> Custer Feldspar 83.0
> Silica 8.0
> Whiting 9.0
>=20
> Red Iron 4686 15%
>=20
> A great magnesium iron yellow is Rhodes 32 (no zircopax) with 1 -5 % Red
> Iron Oxide in reduction.
>=20
> Rhodes 32 cone 10
> Custer Feldspar 49.1
> Whiting 3.5
> Kaolin 25.0
> Dolomite 22.4
>=20
> Red Iron 1 =96 5%
>=20
> The only thing I ask is that you let me know how it goes!
>=20
> I encourage you to get a group together to help conduct the tests, as it
> cuts the work load and increases the number of results.
>=20
> Hope I did not forget anything,
>=20
> John Britt
> www.johnbrittpottery.com
>=20
> _________________________________________________________________________=
_____
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>=20
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>=20
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
John Britt on mon 2 may 05
Eric,
I don't know,
Sorry, John Britt
www.johnbrittpottery.com
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