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latex on pottery bottoms

updated sun 22 may 05

 

claybair on fri 20 may 05


Cindy,

I have a concern about using rug material
as when it dries you have glaze dust floating
in the air when you move or bump it.
I don't use latex for pot bottoms either.
I use a dense foam high quality rug underlayment.
It is not the chopped up foam pieces underlayment
but a solid dense foam. Mine is now 5 years old.
It is/was made by Lee carpets.
When we built our house I wouldn't let the rug guys
take the left over pieces. It has lined my tubs & been cut into
sponges for throwing. I cut pieces the size of my wheel head.
All I have to do is wet it, squeeze it out, slap it on the wheel head.
I give it a gentle spin and my pot bottoms are cleaned off in a snap!
When the sponge gets saturated with glaze I just rinse it out
and am ready to clean off more pots. No dust!

Gayle Bair
Bainbridge Island, WA
Tucson, AZ
http://claybair.com

-----Original Message-----
From: Cindy in SD

I've never used latex, but if you want to do this with less work, you
might try low-pile carpet samples. I just dampen one and then rub the
base of the pot on it after dipping. Works great.

Best wishes,
Cindy in SD

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gjudson on fri 20 may 05


I have painted the bottoms of my bowls with latex instead of wax. I =
like it
because I have more control than when I dip in hot wax. =20

Question is: to I need to peel the latex off before firing? Is there a
problem with leaving it on to burn off?

=20

This is work! The glazing part is a real challenge-make the glazes, =
protect
bottoms, glaze, load, fire, unload. All I wanted to do was throw some =
bowls
on a wheel!

=20

Gay Judson, San Antonio, TX

claybair on fri 20 may 05


Gay,

Yes, pull it off before firing... baad fumes.
Or just make bowls on the wheel and recycle them
You'd surely save $ not to mention the hassle of glazing
plus an added bonus.... you could get away with using just
1 or 2 bags of clay. ;-) Doesn't that sound like a veeerrry
Zen thing to do!
I use it on leatherhard pieces. I apply a few coats
and peel off when done the carving/sgraffito on the rims.
I thin my Goodrich water based latex and apply a couple coats
with a foam brush.
It successfully keeps bits of slip from getting embedded in the clay.

Gayle Bair - sorry am still goofy from driving 1700 miles and
missing Mel's show by one day!!!
Bainbridge Island, WA
Tucson, AZ
http://claybair.com

-----Original Message-----

From: gjudsonI have painted the bottoms of my bowls with latex instead of
wax. I like it
because I have more control than when I dip in hot wax.

Question is: to I need to peel the latex off before firing? Is there a
problem with leaving it on to burn off?



This is work! The glazing part is a real challenge-make the glazes, protect
bottoms, glaze, load, fire, unload. All I wanted to do was throw some bowls
on a wheel!
snip>

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Cat Jarosz on fri 20 may 05


In a message dated 5/20/2005 9:49:33 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
gjudson@SBCGLOBAL.NET writes:

have painted the bottoms of my bowls with latex instead of wax. I =
like it
because I have more control than when I dip in hot wax. =20

Question is: to I need to peel the latex off before firing? Is there a
problem with leaving it on to burn off?

=20

This is work! The glazing part is a real challenge-make the glazes, =
protect
bottoms, glaze, load, fire, unload. All I wanted to do was throw some =
bowls
on a wheel!

=20


Dear Gay???? why on earth are you using latex?? That stuff is hard as
heck on your brushes and expensive to boot!! Its used as a resist for
decoration and yes pulling it off makes sense as glaze sticks to it also and
you'd have a mess..

There is a product out called liquid Wax... there are 2 brands .. I
like MOBILE best and Highwater Clays in Asheville NC carries it. They ship
and have a web site but the phone # is 828 252-6033 I bet
_www.highwaterclay.com_ (http://www.highwaterclay.com) works too.. I usually water it
down some as its a bit thick and it flows better if you cut it with
water.... I also use food dye to color it so I can tell its on the pot...
How much water to add ??? Depends on how fast you want to glaze.. In
school we would cut it almost in half as we would wax pots, go eat lunch,
come back and start glazing after lunch.. at my studio now I usually wait
over nite before I glaze and lots of it have liner glazes so I need to wait
extra day for that too. I generally leave it pretty thick and only thin it
out enough to make it flow better but it lasts days ... the resist part...

I hope this helps you some. SOrry if I acted a bit alarmed , didnt mean
to bite your head off sending a hug your way.... Cat Jarosz in
WET but COLORFUL and LUSH mountains of NC with big wolfie head on my
lap wanting me to come play on floor... ( Curly Q ) soon the teeth will come
out and my pjs will be dragged away from the puter. yipes and me with
them...




http://www.guildcrafts.com/cat/

V)''(V woof & >^..^< mew; Chicks with beards rule !!!
(_o_)
\||/

Mark Tigges on fri 20 may 05


On Fri, May 20, 2005 at 07:25:30AM -0500, gjudson wrote:
> I have painted the bottoms of my bowls with latex instead of wax. I like it
> because I have more control than when I dip in hot wax.
>
> Question is: to I need to peel the latex off before firing? Is there a
> problem with leaving it on to burn off?
>

I suppose that you don't HAVE to. I see two issues, first the
volatiles, second you'd have to get the glaze of the latex.

For the volatiles, the base of most latexes is ammonia, I am not sure
about what happens when it gets heated, but it smells bad enough
without heating it. The latex itself is a synthetic rubber compound,
so it doesn't smell too good. Doubtless it would contribute to a
health issue, but the contribution considering what else is fuming
from your kiln would likely be very minor.

So, unlike wax, glaze sticks very readily to latex. So if you are
leaving the latex on you haven't really saved yourself any work. You
would have to clean the glaze off the latex. Likely this is easier
than cleaning off clay, but probably just as messy. Latex is
WONDERFUL. Just get a nice clean line, glaze, let it dry, then peel
off. I use a needle tool to hook into the glaze, and then pull it up.
Note, do this over a bucket of water to catch the bits of dried glaze.
Your bottoms will be like that of babies. Smooth and free of gunk.
Wait, that's not really like a baby is it?

> This is work! The glazing part is a real challenge-make the glazes, protect
> bottoms, glaze, load, fire, unload. All I wanted to do was throw some bowls
> on a wheel!

Cooking is fun too. The cleanup is definitely work akin to grinding
shelves, or kiln maintenance. But the reward ... eating, is
beautiful. Just like your pots.

Mark.

Cindy in SD on fri 20 may 05


Dear Gay,

I've never used latex, but if you want to do this with less work, you
might try low-pile carpet samples. I just dampen one and then rub the
base of the pot on it after dipping. Works great.

Best wishes,
Cindy in SD