Carty Ellis on sat 21 may 05
I was recently told to completly cover earthenware with glaze and to fire using stilts. Is this truly the
recommended process for earthenware functional pottery? I have been glazing it the same method I
use for Cone 6, with an exposed footring and bottom to avoid using stilts.
Comments?
Ann Brink on sat 21 may 05
I have been using an exposed footring, which is deep enough for me to also
glaze the bottom. Also, if I make vases, I tell buyers that they may sweat,
and advise the use of a glass disc, etc, under them. Sometimes I make a
separate base, by throwing a low cylinder, inverting it and cutting feet.
These can really enhance the look of a vase and provide protection from
moisture.
I was just getting ready to quit using the local clay (source seemed gone)
when friends found a bucket of it in their garage. They had gathered some
for me previously. Couldn't believe how many pieces I got from that one
bucket, once I mixed it half & half with Muddox.
Ann Brink in Lompoc CA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Carty Ellis"
To:
Sent: Saturday, May 21, 2005 5:20 AM
Subject: Glazing cone 05 Earthenware - technique question
> I was recently told to completly cover earthenware with glaze and to fire
using stilts. Is this truly the
> recommended process for earthenware functional pottery? I have been
glazing it the same method I
> use for Cone 6, with an exposed footring and bottom to avoid using stilts.
>
> Comments?
>
>
Rick Hamelin on sat 21 may 05
Hi
Some who use the earthenware range of glazes are familiar with their use in the grade school art rooms. It is because of glazes being applied too thickly, the overlapping of multiple glaze types, the use of 07 glazes at 04, and the misunderstanding that the small cone numbers are not the same as the large cone numbers that are on the premixed glaze containers that glaze running occurs. This is why they use stilts. They had glaze running at some point and chose to resolve the problem with stilts instead of learning about the cones, glaze and kiln. Perhaps they also don't use a pyrometer to judge hotter zones or spots throughout the kiln.You should do a load with your glazes applied to wares that you don't want in the event of loss. Test them out. Test the kiln out. Large cone each shelf to see if the kiln fires evenly.
Stilts are not necessary if you learn about what causes glaze flow.
Rick
--
"Many a wiser men than I hath
gone to pot." 1649
-------------- Original message --------------
> I was recently told to completly cover earthenware with glaze and to fire using
> stilts. Is this truly the
> recommended process for earthenware functional pottery? I have been glazing it
> the same method I
> use for Cone 6, with an exposed footring and bottom to avoid using stilts.
>
> Comments?
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
Brant Palley NMCLAY.com on sun 22 may 05
I am sorry,
But if you want to do earthenware, please bisque high (o4) and glaze low
(o6) and glaze the entire piece including the foot. And use stilts.
Earthenware clay can absorb up to 18% water by weight and that water can
cause problems.
Like a sponge the water makes the sponge larger stretching the glaze,
creating crazing, Bad.
Absorbent clay bodies suck up dirty dishwater, uck.
Place an earthenware mug in the microwave oven and see if the water in the
clay gets hot, burning the user.
The idea is to stabilize the clay by bisquing to a certain temperature,
this locks in a certain coefficient of expansion, and burns out any carbon
and gasses that may effect glazes.
Now we can glaze at a lower temperature and have a flawless glaze, leaded
or not, foodsafe or not, but that is how it works, that is what made the
great and faded hobby of Ceramics in America. Talc bodies, electric hobby
kilns, things we take for granted here in the USA.
Brant Palley
New Mexico Clay
1-800-781-2529
1-505-881-2350
www.art-clay.com
www.nmclay.com
www.Silver-Clay.com
www.DuncanPaintStore.com
linda rosen on sun 22 may 05
My understanding is that completely coating an earthenware piece in =
glaze
helps to prevent reabsorbtion over time in use ( ie washing). =
Earthenware is
not very vitreous. Stilting works because Earthenware does not deform or
slump at glaze temps and needs less support. Coating the bottom with =
glaze
is optional, not required, and depends on how the piece will be used or =
on
visual choices.
At our school I have the students dry foot everything (porcelain, =
stoneware,
earthenware) as it is hard as it is to get them to understand that this =
is
necessary at high temps and I don't want to add confusion and scrape
shelves . I also find loading a kiln with stilted pieces to be fussy =
work
and stilts have a limited life. I try to have most functional work done =
in
stoneware and use earthenware principally for decorative or sculptural
projects.
I believe terra sig is sometimes used on the bottom along with =
burnishing
as an alternative to glazing earthenware bases and this helps with the
reabsorbtion problem.
Earthenware is not my area so I hope that I have all this right.
Linda in Toronto
Celebrating Queen Victoria's Birthday with a long weekend and looking
forward to fireworks=20
----- Original Message -----
From: "Carty Ellis"
To:
Sent: Saturday, May 21, 2005 5:20 AM
Subject: Glazing cone 05 Earthenware - technique question
> I was recently told to completly cover earthenware with glaze and to =
fire
using stilts. Is this truly the
> recommended process for earthenware functional pottery? I have been
glazing it the same method I
> use for Cone 6, with an exposed footring and bottom to avoid using =
stilts.
>
> Comments?
>
>
_________________________________________________________________________=
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melpots@pclink.com.
Russel Fouts on mon 23 may 05
>> I was recently told to completly cover earthenware with glaze and to
fire using stilts. Is this truly the recommended process for earthenware
functional pottery? I have been glazing it the same method I use for Cone
6, with an exposed footring and bottom to avoid using stilts. <<
Cover the exposed body with a good fitting terra-sigilata of the
appropriate color. Much easier.
Russel
Russel Fouts
Mes Potes & Mes Pots
Brussels, Belgium
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Eleanora Eden on wed 25 may 05
This is sure how I do it. I make a lot of my own stilts using thin
slabs of vermiculite clay and small pieces of kanthal wire so the
vertical wasted space is a lot less than using commercial stilts.
Can't allow that naked low fire clay to dirty up the universe......I
know it sounds ridiculous to people using stoneware clay but
earthenware really is a different animal and if you accommodate that
you end up with a pretty good pottery. Of course I stilted my work a
lot at cone 10 too, so hey, the bottom is just another surface to
decorate, don't cha know........
Eleanora
>I am sorry,
>But if you want to do earthenware, please bisque high (o4) and glaze low
>(o6) and glaze the entire piece including the foot. And use stilts.
>Earthenware clay can absorb up to 18% water by weight and that water can
>cause problems.
>
>Like a sponge the water makes the sponge larger stretching the glaze,
>creating crazing, Bad.
>
>Absorbent clay bodies suck up dirty dishwater, uck.
>
>Place an earthenware mug in the microwave oven and see if the water in the
>clay gets hot, burning the user.
>
>The idea is to stabilize the clay by bisquing to a certain temperature,
>this locks in a certain coefficient of expansion, and burns out any carbon
>and gasses that may effect glazes.
>
>Now we can glaze at a lower temperature and have a flawless glaze, leaded
>or not, foodsafe or not, but that is how it works, that is what made the
>great and faded hobby of Ceramics in America. Talc bodies, electric hobby
>kilns, things we take for granted here in the USA.
>
>Brant Palley
>New Mexico Clay
>1-800-781-2529
>1-505-881-2350
>www.art-clay.com
>www.nmclay.com
>www.Silver-Clay.com
>www.DuncanPaintStore.com
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.
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